Thanks for the information Nick.
Good stuff.
David
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nick Novia [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 2:17 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Black tank removal steps....'68 Safari
>
>
> Today, I finally was able to drop the cover pan from around the black water
> tank. I was having lots of trouble before today, mostly because I was
> tentative
> about "ripping" the box out. I got a little more assertive today in
> desparation,
> and "voila" out it came.
>
> Here's how to get the sewage tank out of a 1968 Safari, and maybe other
> models
> of the same vintage too.
>
> Take off the toilet, but leave the connecting bushing. This will hold the
> tank
> up, when the box drops.
>
> You will have to drill out some belly pans. I took out the bottom skin
> farthest
> aft, from under my storage locker for the pwer cord,etc.etc. It was easy.
> See the rivets, drill them out. Rivets may be 1/8, 5/32, 3/16. I used a
> "30"
> drill, a "21," and a "13" size.
> There were a couple of bolts at each side thru the frame(curb/street) that
> were
> rusted badly. I took them off by breaking them with the wrench, or they
> turned
> off.
>
> The next forward skin is way bigger, but the same. Drill out the rivets
> that
> look like they are holding it in. You then try and wiggle it out. It will
> come out, along with years of who knows what junk! <g>
>
> Now, you have the tank pan, or box, whatever you wanna call it. It's a
> galvenized
> skinned, angle iron framed box that goes around the black tank. It's
> larger
> than the tank and is filled with styrofoam insulation pieces.
>
> To drop this box you have to disconnect a few things first. The '68's had
> an
> insulating foam sprayed underneath the wooden floor for insulation. It
> covers
> everything in there. It also helps to hold everything up in there.
>
> I had a red rubber hose connecting to the front of the box. I cut it at
> the
> fitting on the box. It must be a vent for the box, because it didn't
> connect
> to the tank. I will have to try and follow where the red hose
> goes...later.
> I might just eliminate it.
>
> There are two 1 inch pieces of angle iron on the forward, and aft bottom
> corners
> of this box, and they both connect with 3/8 bolts to tabs on the frame.
> Mine
> were rusted terribly and broke off when I put the sockets to 'em. You
> might
> have different luck. I will replace them with SSteel.
>
> The box should pull off now. It might take some persuasion, but it'll
> come!
> It may be a little delicate, getting it out from around that dump valve
>
> The tank itself, will still be connected to the toilet ring, the dump valve
> and drain plumbing, and the vent stack, and the sending unit for the tank
> fluid
> levels. Mine unit doesn't work, so maybe I can fix it/get a new one.
> Undo these and you remove the tank.
>
> I think my tank is polyethylene. It doesn't say in the manual. My vent
> fitting
> (1 1/2 inch) ripped right out, because the tank flexed up and down, because
> the angle iron holding the box rusted completely out, and everything was
> moving.
>
> Someone else before me tried to pour something all around the vent fitting
> to
> seal it, but it was only a temporary fix. It had been leaking for years I
> believe.
> I also believe the nice lady who sold it to me, well, she had to know..but
> that's my fault!
>
> I want to fix this hole in the tank, because getting a new one may be
> impossible,
> or very expensive. Can't I bond a larger than the hole patch on ther, then
> drill out for a new vent fitting? Like a vent flange, on top of a big
> round
> polyethylene washer?
>
> Nick Novia
>
> '68 Safari....looking better this week!
