I went looking for replacement lens today at all nearby RV dealers. I just wanted
to relace one for now. The three amber lights in front have been degraded by
UV rays I guess. They are not really amber anymore, but faded. I kinda like
it.
I looked at new Grote Lens at their website, and it looks like the 90062/90063
lens will match the old fittings, which have the 234/233 lens.
No one had these, so I will order thru the website. I bought one replacement
to use in the meantime, and it was really amber! It was also flatter profiled.
Two pale lights, and one amber!
I wouldn't order from Inland if they are 8 dollars, because most sell for 5
bucks! I just need the lens, less than 2 bucks.
Mine too, are held on the skin by two rivets, but I haven't had any problems
yet. <g>
Talk about Inland...if anyone wants to hear about the rear compartment door
they sent me.....well, I just hope I can relate the story without expletives!
Nick
Safari O228J162
WBCCI 2577
VAC
>I've been working on my Caravel's marker lights. All the marker lights
>are Grotelite model 234. All but one of the lenses are Grotelite model
>233. One (more flat, not a double wedge) that fit the Grotelite base is
>a Bargman. I didn't make note of the number.
>
>I don't have any more marker lights lit now, than I did before... The
>problem in all of them (even those that are lit are not full brilliance)
>is the ground is supplied through a pop rivet and washer. The pop rivet
>is grounded solidly but there almost no pressure on the aluminum washer.
>This connection is depending on squeezing metals together through a
>plastic. That was not an approved technique even with hard plastics at
>Collins Radio 37 years ago... I think I'll work up a more robust
>technique that might meet Collins Radio standards and as a consequence
>not need repair every trip... Seems to me that I want to remove the
>rivets and loosen the fixture. Then I want do drill another hole in the
>fixture base to pass a second stranded wire pigtail which I can solder
>to the brass ground strap. Then under the fixture base (presuming its
>hollow) I can use an aluminum self tapping screw with stainless steel
>star lock washer to ground a wire lug crimped to that ground wire
>(crimped with a surplus mil spec ratchet crimper) to a new hole in the
>shell of the Caravel. I was thinking that maybe I'd just drill out the
>rivet at the grounded end and replace it with a larger self tapping
>screw and lock washer, preferably stainless steel or aluminum, but that
>still makes the ground dependent on squeezing plastic. Sure I can go pop
>the lenses off and tighten the screw each trip, but I think the pigtail
>will be a significant improvement.
>
>I made one other problem. I took the license plate fixture apart. It was
>a mass of rust and the lamp collapsed in my fingers when I tried to
>remove it. The base is permanently rusted to the socket. I unbolted the
>base and pulled on the wire, but the connection broke off in the wall. I
>may have to open up the wire hole to something big enough to get my long
>nose pliers through to fish out that wire. Its sure I need a new fixture
>there.
>
>As long as I'm fishing for wires in the back, I've wondered about adding
>a third brake light in the back window. Might be a useful safety item...
>Might be a really huge pain to wire without taking the bath out too.
>Though maybe the stop/turn lamp fixtures could be unriveted from their
>castings to get wiring access for both tasks in the back wall.
>
>Gerald J.
>
>
