> Now on a rotary pad buffer, two variables need to be >considered, and since you are in the bay area, where the humidity can be >high, and the temperature,..........cool, the residue would not dry as >fast as in my neck of the words. On a wet humid, cool day, I had a >hell of a time, getting the polish off. =============== My experience with a pad buffer is that I did not wait for the polish to dry but kept buffing the mud to the extent that I got a high percentage picked up in the pad. I never did experience any throwing of the mud beyond ten or so inches and then most of it was landed on my face. After picking up mud in pad about as good as I could I would spray surface with Windex with VINEGAR and wipe off with cloths (actually face wash cloths). At first I used a paint thinner but found the vinegar/windex worked just as good if the mud wasn't very heavy . I used this procedure with all three grades of Rolite. I used the rotary at 1000 rpm for first cut and 1200 rpm for second and for AP300. After applying and polishing with AP300, using rotary pad, I then put a second coat of 300 on the top portion of trailer using a Cyclo polisher that a friend had (foam pads). It was an old one but I wanted to see how it worked at polishing. It seemed to polish out with less swirls as reflected in the bright sun. I doubt the Cyclo has have enough power to cut heavy oxidation with any ease but feel it is a good finish polisher. I did find the rotary polisher it bit easy and faster then the cyclo but maybe simply because I had gotten pretty adapt with it. I was working in high/dry New Mexico and the only climatic condition of concern is that temperature had to be 60 or above or the polish just did not cut well on the Pre-polish phase. I had been advised about this but started at 55 degees one day (for comfort) and found the job just wasn't getting done so I stopped and came back an hour later and redid what previously was not satisfactory. Roy Lashway '78 Argosy,'56 Bubble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
