just a thought, but I wonder how shoe cement
(industrial strength rubber cement) would hold up in
this application -- anybody have experience working on
shoes?
Toby 2029
--- Jodi & John Guerin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> About gluing tambour doors, I recently re-did the
> one on our 72 Overlander
> that is really long and narrow and was broken in
> many places. We removed
> the counter for replacement and while it was off I
> completely removed the
> tambour and it's housing. I re-glued using canvas
> (only in the middle, it
> doesn't go down into the tracks) and Gorilla Glue.
> We've had great luck
> with this glue in places that require flexibility
> and strength. It's a
> little strange to work with though because it
> doesn't do anything at first
> and then it foams and expands (so be sparing). At
> any rate, I coated the
> fabric on one side and put it on the tambour. Then
> I laid paper over this
> (to prevent a lot of sticking) and clamped the
> tambour between two boards
> and left it for a few hours. When it was dry I had
> to re-bend or break the
> old paper so the tambour was flexible again, but it
> seems to work pretty
> well now. Good luck
> Jodi of J&J 1972 Overlander
>
> At 09:13 AM 7/25/00 -0600, you wrote:
> > > I was making a list of all the things to do
> first
> > >before trying to repair/reglue my tattered
> tambours!
> > >
> > >Judy
> >==========
> >Justa comment: Some months back number of
> messages relative to repair
> >of tambour were posted. I recall that some simply
> took their old doors
> >and reglued a new light fabric backing over the
> existing fabric or paper
> >back. Can't recall just what they used for glueing
> but maybe someone
> >will speak up. Also look thru the Patterson sight
> you might find
> >something. I recall that folks have succesfully
> repaired these doors.
> >Also use of silicone spray in the cabinet door
> tracks seems to be a
> >standard treatment.
> >
> >Roy Lashway
> >'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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