May I jump in,
I own a 1969 that had been stored for 15 years. It cost $2500, is structurally
sound, and supposedly all the systems worked.
The electrical converter worked for about 5 hours ($200),
the tires needed replacement ($250) (the tragedy was that they had only a few
miles on them, they were dry rotted from age!),
the water system had 8 leaks ($100 and counting) ,
it needed an awning ($450),
a new mattress ($240 for a futon and cover),
new skylight ($125),
battery ($65),
hatch handles ($30)
door lock cylinder (still looking),
various moldings $30,
faucet O rings (free from a relative),
bearings repacked $60,
various hoses ($40),
Original Aluminium propane tanks recertified and revalved (a bargain at $65).
The refrigerator mostly works but is hanging on by a thread (about $1200)
I consider this a bargain, although my wife has other opinions. The interior is
intact, real walnut panelling, and in very good shape. The plastic parts that were
exposed to UV are brittle and ruined.
In the end, exclusive of polishing I will have about $5500 in a fully functional,
basically stock 1969 trailer. I anticipate about $200 per year maintenance.
But this is me not you. I am fearless about plumbing, but have no way to do body
work. If you have a barn and experience in body work, your calculations might be
different. Look at a lot of trailers, not just airstreams. Learn about prices in
your area around here, people ask outrageous prices for seriously damaged
trailers. A dealer here wanted $6500 for a 12 year old trailer with a rotten
floor. Another wanted $4500 for a trailer with the side ripped open. My trailer
was cheap because it was on a farm four miles down a dirt road, in a God's
country, about 25 miles outside of town. Few buyers wanted to make the trip.
So we took it out on its first trip, and out next door neighbor has a neat little
early 1960's 2 wheel conventional trailer. I get talking to the owner, and we
toured each others units. My neighbors unit is perfect, every thing works, (they
did replace the refrigerator). All the woodwork was refinished by the previous
owner, who also replace the stove and everything else that did not work. It was
owned by an elderly man as a hunting camp, it was his pride and joy, and he kept
it in showroom condition. When he got too old to use it, he fixed everything that
was broken and sold it for ----$500.
So keep looking until you find what you need.
Ed
RJ & Krista wrote:
> You will succeed in your acquisition and restoration because of the
> realization that it will cost about $5000 -after- you purchase the
> trailer. That is a very realistic estimate for a full restoration.
>
> As for the 1968 26' (Overlander, I bet), $5000 is the high end for the
> "mid-vintage" "mid-size" trailers. If the floor is 100% sound, all
> interior components in good original condition, all systems & appliances
> working (demonstrated), and no exterior dents or damage, and all the
> parts are there - then half your battles are fought and the trailer
> would be worth it. You don't care about tires, interior softgoods or
> the finish, since you would replace those anyway. If an inspection
> reveals less than than the above mentioned, you just start dinging off
> estimated costs from the asking price - arriving at the realistic fair price.
>
> Trailers are no different than houses - it is cheaper to buy a new house
> than it is to repair an old one. In Airstream terms, the price
> difference between an Airstream in great condition and one in poor
> condition does not reflect the cost of making the poor condition trailer
> like that of the good condition one.
>
> The poor condition coaches are like a blank canvas though, and offer
> opportunity to create a custom masterpiece - but the acquisition price
> needs to reflect the condition - but they rarely do. This is why it
> usually costs more to rebuild a junker than it does to buy a ready to
> roll cream-puff.
>
> Don't feel too discouraged, we looked at 12 Airstreams before finding
> the right combination of price and condition on our last trailer - and
> learned a lot along the way. Don't feel compelled to buy the first one.
> Each time will get easier and you will know what to look at and ask about.
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> '65 Caravel (heading to Crater Lake, Oregon next week)
>
> Carla Jetton wrote:
> >
> > I am looking to purchase a 1968 Land Yacht 26ft. with original Wally #s on
> > front. It is in average condition. They are asking $5000, is this
> > reasonable. I will want to totally restore and know this will cost at least
> > $5K more.
> >
> > Any thoughts? I'd love to hear them.
> >
> > Carla in Oregon
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim Dunmyer
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: 7/27/2000 12:31 PM
> > Subject: Re: [VAC] Tongue Weight
> >
> > John,
> > Have you not been reading the List for the past couple of days?
> >
> > Sherline (http://www.sherline.com) makes and sells a trailer tounge
> > scale that's also sold by Camping World (http://www.campingworld.com).
> >
> > <<Jim>>
> >
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > >
> > > In a message dated 7/26/00 12:23:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> > >
> > > << 15% of total trailer weight should be measured at the
> > > tongue? >>
> > >
> > > Hi ya all: Where can I find a method to measure tongue weight?
> > > Best regards.
> > >
> > > John @ <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/airstream58/Page81.html">58/22'
> > > AirStream</A>
> >
> > --
> >
> > <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> > <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> > <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>