Greg,
I've heard that the Norcold is better than the Dometic (someplace,
can't remember where). It works exactly the same as the Dometic, so
general rules still apply.
Check for power at the thermostat, then at the leads going to the
element. You can also ohmmeter the element, POWER OFF and at least one
lead disconnected. It should read some continuity, probably fairly low
(100 ohms or less, but I'm guessing). If your troubleshooting leads to
the element, see if you can get one from either Norcold or RV Mobile
(http://www.rvmobile.com). It shouldn't be too expensive, and shouldn't
be too bad a job to replace, but you may have to remove the fridge to do
the job.
<<Jim>>
Greg Linder wrote:
>
> The discussion has mainly been about Dometic brand units - My '62 Overlander
> has a Norcold. It appears to be original, and works on gas only. Is the
> electric element easy to replace and available? Is Norcold of
> comparable quality? Thanks!
>
> Greg
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: terry tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 5:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAC] Ammonia cycle refrigerators.
>
> > Hey Gary,
> >
> > Don't you just love simple solutions?
> >
> > As soon as I read your posting, an
> > immediate AHH HAA!! occurred, flash
> > bulbs went off. I went out and looked
> > inside that shallow cabinet. There it
> > was on the bottom of the cabinet,
> > directly over the fridge burner,
> > big as life, obvious as can be.
> >
> > Tomorrow, I'll investigate further
> > when it's not raining and I can
> > be thorough inside and outside.
> >
> > Thanks Amigo,
> >
> > Terry
> > ============================
> > >Hi folks:
> > >
> > >All the talk about this topic reminded me of something that I discovered
> > >about my Dometic M52 ('67).
> > >
> > >Once, on a little trip about a year ago to a park that didn't have
> > >electrical hookups, I ran the fridge on gas and for the first time it
> > >didn't get as cold as it should. I worried that the end was near for the
> > >old thing. We got by with a Coleman cooler and ice. The fridge just
> > >barely was cool enough although the burner seemed to be working OK.
> > >
> > >Later, when I had the trailer back in the storage place, I got to
> > >thinking about the fact that it seemed to run OK on electricity, which
> > >led me to believe that the ammonia system was intact and functioning.
> > >
> > >When I began checking around, I found that, due to the extreme bouncing
> > >that my trailer does, the cap had popped off the top of the flue. The
> > >cap is connected to a wire that supports and locates the screw shaped
> > >flue baffle, which is critical to the proper operation of the
> > >burner/heater. On my trailer, the cap is under a wooden plug in a
> > >cabinet adjacent to the refrigerator vent. I placed the flue top back on
> > >the flue and the fridge worked like gangbusters and has ever since.
> > >
> > >So now each time I get to where I'm goin' I check that the cap is where
> > >it should be. I wonder how many units were scrapped because of the flue
> > >baffle?
> > >
> > >Later,
> > >
> > >GQ '67 Safari (Just back from a great trip to Humbolt County, CA and the
> > >Redwood Empire...gas $1.99 9/10 gal...at least it wasn't $2.00!)
> > >
> > >PS: Fridge worked great for 16 days on electric. Pre-cooled for 24 hours
> > >on gas before starting out.
> > >
> >
> >
> > Websites useful for restoring/maintaining Airstreams
> > http://www.vac.airstream.net
> > http://www.phrannie.org/phredex.html
> > http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Cabana/4868/
> > http://www.escapees.com
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/Streamline/Airstreamlist/Spares7.html
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
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