>
Mike: Very informative.
Thanks,
Jack



>  I'm recommending this particularly for a carb that has demonstrated some
>throttle bushing wear.  The idle circuit on this carb is very touchy, and is
>easily thrown off by this leak  The idle air can flow thru the hole in the
>butterfly, plus thru the cracked-open throttle setting, plus thru the worn
>bushings.  All this air flowing makes it practically impossible to adjust
>the idle properly with the 2 idle adjustment screws (large upper screw =
>idle air/ small  lower screw = idle fuel).   BTW, this is "idle-only"
>settings.  Anything above idle is controlled by the main jet, emulsion tube
>and venturi sizes, plus the accelerator pump nozzle and stroke adjustment to
>add fuel during acceleration, and the enrichment passages during WOT (wide
>open throttle).  The choke butterfly, heating element, bi-metallic spring
>and vacuum pull-off must all be working properly to allow all these other
>circuits to perform properly under all the various conditions.
>   For the 009 distributor hesitation problem, Boston Bob even recommends
>installing a pop rivet to close off the butterfly hole, to allow better idle
>transition and acceleration adjustments to help compensate for that
>particular syndrome.
>   The .004 gap you're referring to is for a clean, perfect, unworn,
>unmolested carb. Not much of those left around anymore.  When they instruct
>you to 'lightly' close the idle volume screw, they mean VERY lightly,
>because the pot metal carb body is so thin at the seat for this screw, that
>it is easily distorted and permanently damaged by tightening it too much or
>too many times by too many 'mechanics'.  This damage changes the shape of
>the seat and the screw needle adjustment is never going to work properly
>again.  This damage is not repairable, and now you need a new carb, even if
>the throttle shaft bushings aren't worn out yet.
>   I've rebuilt every carb VW has ever made (except the oldest bug ones and
>the Rabbit 2-bbl).  I've repaired and re-bushed dozens of them, and adjusted
>and balanced too many to count.  Just my own recommendatons, due to my own
>personal experience, that's all............
>
>HTH,
>
>Mike B.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack Dinan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]>
>Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 9:16 PM
>Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is There a Quality Carburetor Out There?
>
>
>>  Nick: I came in late on this one and am curious about Mike B's recipe
>>  for setting the idle.
>>
>>  As I understand, he suggests that one set the throttle adjustment
>>  screw so that it does not touch the fast idle cam, thus insuring that
>>  there is no gap between the throttle plate and the inside wall of the
>>  carb.
>>
>>  For a 34 PICT-3, Bentley suggests that the screw be turned in to
>>  touch the cam and then another quarter turn. I've read where the
>>  pitch of the screw is such that this translates into a gap of .004"
>>  between the tip of the throttle plate and the carb.
>>
>>  I've always just blindly followed the Bentley recipe and have not
>>  explored other settings. It sounds as though Mike B's experience is
>>  so vast that I ought to pay attention.
>  >
>>  Mike, if you're reading this, could you chime in to comment on this
>>  possible discrepancy?
>>  Thanks,
>>  Jack
>>
>>>Thanks for the great advice Mike.
>>>
>>>I think I adjusted the carb correctly according to the Bentley's.
>>>The throttle screw is not contacting the choke cam which is fully
>>>rotated down and the volume screw is all the way in.  Still the idle
>>>is too high and it hesitates off of idle.
>>>
>>>A spray of choke cleaner near the throttle shaft causes increased
>>>engine RPMs which tells me that there is a vacuum leak around the shaft.
>>>
>>>As you can tell, I'm quite disappointed that after only a year of
>>>daily driver use, my carb is essentially shot and I'll have to fork
>>>out another $200 or so for a replacement.  I was hoping there were
>  >>better options.  There is a guy at the BugOut that always has rebuilt
>>>carbs but I don't know if they are rebushed or not.  Maybe I'll talk
>>>with him and see if he has a good one.
>>>
>>>I figured as much about the Holley.  I see forum notes about them but
>>>no talk about it being a "must have" item.
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>
>>>Nick
>>>VintagVW >  http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/VintageVW/
>>>Dub~Tunes > http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/dub_tunes
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>On 24 May, 2007, at 18:41, Mike wrote:
>>>
>>>>   Nick,
>>>>
>>>>    The 34 PICT-3 carb should have the throttle completely closed at
>>>>   warm idle.  The automatic choke cam should be fully rotated down
>>>>   when fully warmed up.  That means that the throttle lever's
>>>>   adjustment screw should have a tiny bit of clearance between it's
>>>>   tip and the choke cam's smallest step.   This is proof that the
>>>>   throttle plate is fully closed inside the carb barrel.  This brass
>>>>   plate has a small hole in it to meter basic idle airflow when the
>>>>   plate is fiully closed.   The fine idle air adjustment is then
>>>>   controlled by the volume screw.  If that's fully closed by turning
>>>>   it all the way in, the engine should die, due to being almost
>>>>   completely deprived of idle airflow.
>>>>    It sounds like you're engine is revved up too high at idle, due to
>>>>   the throttle lever screw being adjusted too far in, which is
>>>>   holding the throttle plate partially open.  This causes the large
>>>>   volume screw to be almost completely ineffective, as it's being
>>>>   bypassed.  The auto choke not fully opening proiperly, due to
>>>>   misadjustment, bent linkage or a bad electric choke heating element
>>>>   or bi-metallic spring..  The  choke can may not be opening to the
>>>>   smallest step, artificially holding the throttle plate from fully
>>>>   closing upon complete warmup.   This would cause the same problem
>>>>   and waste fuel, too.   I've found many carbs (even new out-of-the-
>>>>   box!) misadjusted this way, due to some previous person fiddling
>>>>   with the screws and not knowing exactly what needs to be done to
>>>>   make it work properly.
>>>>    I've rebuilt dozens of all types of carbs, re-bushed worn throttle
>>>>   shafts, and test run them to check for proper operation, leaks and
>>>>   to adjust the basic settings, so that a customer could
>>>>   theoretically just bolt it on and run it as-is.  AFAIK, the
>>>>   Pierberg should be a quality item, the Brosols being a pretty
>>>>   decent carb, too.
>>>>     You shouldn't try a Holley Bugspray, they stopped being popular
>>>   > many years ago for a reason.   They just aren't a good carb for
>>>>   this application. Yes, they work on a bug engine, but not properly,
>>>>   according to what I've read about them.
>>>>   HTH,
>>>>    Mike B.
>>>>
>>>>   ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nicholas Stokes"
>>>>   <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>   To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]>
>>>>   Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 5:45 PM
>>>>   Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is There a Quality Carburetor Out There?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>   as a followup to my carb problem...
>>>>>
>>>>>   My daughter brought the car to me saying that it would not idle.  I
>>>>>   confirmed this and quickly adjusted the volume screw to let her get
>>>>>   home and made plans to work on it in a couple of days.
>>>>>
>>>>>   After setting the valves and timing I was unable to bring the idle
>  >>>>  down to about 900 rpm even with the volume screw all the way in.
>>>>>   This caused me to spray some carb cleaner near the throttle shaft to
>>>>>   confirm the vacuum leak.
>>>>>
>>>>>   The biggest issue is that this Pierburg is advertised to be "German
>>>>>   Technology" and no where on the carb or packaging does it state where
>>>>>   it is manufactured.  This in itself says a lot.  It has only been in
>>>>>   use for about a year now and I have replaced the float and now the
>>>>>   wear on the shaft.  If these are supposed to be better than the
>>>>>   Brazilian/Mexican made Brosol, it was not proven by me.
>>>>>
>>>>>   I'm headed to Bug Out in Manassas VA this weekend.  Anyone have a
>>>>>   recommendation for a decent replacement?
>  >>>>
>>>>>   This is a daily driver with a stock 1600 and SVDA dizzy.  Is there an
>>>>>   advantage to finding a Holley Bug Spray?  The Webers are too pricey
>>>>>   for me.  Any other carbs?
>>>>>
>>>>>   I see AirCooled.net has a complete dual setup using Solex carbs but
>>>>>   I've always been hesitant to add the complication of two carbs.
>>>>>   Anyone have experience with these?
>>>>>
>>>>>   Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>>   Nick
>>>>>   On 3 May, 2007, at 20:58, Nicholas Stokes wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>   Is there a decent 34 PICT-3 carb available out there?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   I purchased a new Pierburg hoping that it along with my SVDA
>>>>>>   distributor with a CompuFire ignition would keep my daughter's '74
>>>>>>   Standard happy for quite some time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   Well...  the distributor from AirCooled.net works great and gives
>>>>>>   the
>>>>>>   smooth acceleration and performance I had hoped for but the carb has
>>>>>>   not lived up to expectations.  The first problem at about six months
>>>>>>   was flooding out which was diagnosed to be a split float full of
>>>>>>   fuel
>>>>>>   which I replaced with one out of a 30-year old one in the parts bin.
>>>>>>   Now, a few months later, there are signs that it is leaking around
>>>>>>   the shaft.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   Any recommendations out there? I'm not looking for any extra
>>>>>>   performance, just something reliable.  All though an extra boost
>>>>>>   would be acceptable as long as it works properly with the SVDA
>>>>>>   dizzy.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   Thanks,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   Nick
>>>>>>   VintagVW >  http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/VintageVW/
>>>>>>   Dub~Tunes > http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/dub_tunes
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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>>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>
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