Yes, electrical portion only. You'll need the
"D"-shaped one from a mid`74-up car. Original P/N was
111 905 865L but the 171 905 865 Rabbit part fits too.
Cool thing about modular ignition switches is that you
can plug one on and see if it works BEFORE physically
replacing it, so if you have one handy you might try
that first.

--- courtney hook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks Marc, and others who replied to my post in a
> positive helpful manner. Thank goodness there were
> no "lectures" or condescending comments like my
> welding post. :-) 
> 
> I have checked all the connections and they are
> clean and tight, so I'm thinking that leaves the
> ignition switch or just plain old age in the wiring,
> since age does cause an increase in resistance, thus
> voltage drop. Corrosion does indeed seem to kill our
> buses slowly. :-(
> I am going to find a relay from my parts stash and
> install it to see what happens. 
> 
> Then it's ignition switch time. I'm assuming we're
> talking the electrical part of the switch here, and
> not the mechanical part which appears to function
> flawlessly?
> Courtney
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marc vellat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Thursday, November 8, 2007 12:58 am
> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Delayed starting, or no
> starting on cold morning??
> To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
> <[email protected]>
> 
> > An HSR would be the pragmatic "fix". Your symptom
> is
> > quite likely due to the additive effect of several
> > borderline problems in the wiring/contacts which
> > supply the solenoid (and possibly the solenoid
> > itself), which sometimes makes it hard to isolate.
> Due
> > to the longer runs of wiring on a bus compared to
> a
> > bug there's less voltage available to the solenoid
> > even with everything in tip-top condition - they
> > probably should've fitted a relay from the
> factory.
> > Rule out the obvious/easy stuff like battery cable
> > connections (at BOTH ends) and those on the ground
> > strap that goes around the front transmission
> mount.
> > Be advised that poor contact inside the ignition
> > switch itself is known to be a problem more often
> on
> > late-model switches like yours then it ever was on
> the
> > older designs...you might try jumpering Term 30
> and 50
> > at the ignition switch, if that makes the solenoid
> act
> > properly it'd be worth the trouble to change the
> > switch before resorting to the HSR, since
> eventually
> > the switch could worsen to the point where it
> won't
> > even operate the relay.


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