Moin!

If you ever have a chance to visit Burghausen, I highly recommend it.  It has 
a castle that you can actually live in if you want.  The ownership of the 
Burghausen castle went back and forth between Germany, France and Austria a 
number of times.  When Napoleon did his tear through Europe, his army could 
not breach the fortress.  He ended up conquering everything around 
Burghausen, and then just waited until the forces inside the fortress got 
hungry enough to hand over the keys peacefully.  Once inside, the first thing 
he did was tear down the portions that were giving him so much problem in 
case he had to take the castle again by force.

In modern days, the ownership of the castle was something of a political 
annoyance.  The Austrian government finally handed it back over to the 
Germans since it was on German soil, and the German government placed it in 
the hands of the residents of the town of Burghausen.  The castle is quite 
large, and had been sorely neglected for some years, and it was going to cost 
quite a bit of money to restore, so the town decided to subdivide portions of 
it, and rent it out to apartment dwellers and boutique owners.  I saw an ad 
in the local paper for an apartment that was coming available, and it wasn't 
renting for all that much, either.  The town also collected a bunch of 
artwork, antique furniture and old armaments and made two museums and a 
botanical garden to attract tourist income.

I was there a couple of years ago on a very cold, rainy day, and spent nearly 
the entire day in the art museum.  I have been to quite a few museums here in 
Europe, but what made this one stand apart was the fact that the museum 
management evidently did not have the resources to properly secure anything.  
Paintings and statues dating back to the 1200's were just placed in rooms 
with no glass or plastic coverings, and you could go right up to them and 
study them in great detail.  There were small signs asking you not to touch 
anything (and I didn't, of course), but there were no visible security guards 
or cameras.  This is quite rare in a modern day museum in a civilized 
country.

They had huge, wall sized oil paintings depicting some of the more famous 
battles that were almost photorealistic.  It was kind of a spooky feeling to 
see the life size faces of the wounded and dying soldiers, the crazed eyes of 
the knights' horses, and so on, in the very same place that you were standing 
600 years later.  The majority of the castle is unchanged.  Another weird 
thing was that none of the rooms had fireplaces.  This is in the foothills of 
the Alps, and I after spending one entire Winter on the shore of the Chiemsee 
in a tent, I can tell you that it gets pretty darn cold.

I am planning another trip down to that area to see some friends in August, 
and Burghausen is high on my list of things to do again.  It was too early in 
the year the last time I visited to go through the botanical garden, but I 
have heard that it is fantastic.  The other museum holds all of the old 
armour and armaments that the town could find, and I want to go through that, 
as well.  Who knows, maybe they do tours of the Wacker plant, as well!

Burghausen is one of those "best kept secrets" of Europe, despite all of the 
efforts of the town to get people to visit.

Cheers!
Knuke

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