In the FWIW Dept. Jones' "Leyden Jar" is two capacitors in series, one the Pyrex to water layer with a Capacitance of about k *eo* area/thickness and a resistance in the Gigohms where more than 99%of the voltage drop occurs. The series water inner glass wall-to-cathode cylindrical capacitance is C = 2(pi)k*eo/[ln R-glass/R-cathode] times water height The only plausible explanation for a current is a Displacement Current I = C * dV/dt due to Polarization effects(polywater?) in the water causing a capacitance since V isn't changing. :-)
Interesting stuff. Fred > [Original Message] > From: Jones Beene > > Ok, Terry-Joe, here-you-go: > > This is a suggestion for only the *precharging* without the plates > being necessary (at first). I am doing this as well just now, but > a little differently. > > Save the plates for next weekend, and if you have any preliminary > results with this - everything there should work out better with > the plates as your water will be activated (hopefully with > nanobubbles, but quien sabe?). > > The charging regime should (in theory) be different (and > optimized) from the usage regime (which is more like the original > Brown's gas-JC idea). > > This idea is based on a long charging regime that will limit H2 to > nearly zero, therefore it can be left unattended for a several > days (weekend?) charging period. > > Start with a Pyrex beaker - very thin walls if possible. This is a > decent hydrophobic material and will slowly pass some current in > the milliamp range. > > Place a conductive strap on the *outside* of the beaker, for the > anode. Use a rod cathode. No chance for a short. This is in case > you want to use a canabalized wall transformer (from an old modem) > instead of batteries, which is what I am doing, coincidentally. > > Start with distilled water and 12 volts and see if you can get any > current draw at all. You want to get it up to about 50-100 > millivolts after a few hours, but it should start out about 10 > millivolts. If not, put the batteries in series and try 24 volts. > If this beaker is too thick you may get nothing without even more > voltage, or adding some electrolyte - but give it a few hours. > Mine just started and it is drawing 15 millivolts but it is an 18 > volt transformer and a very thin-walled beaker. > > The idea is that (only in the precharging regime) you want to > achieve a slow circulation of water around the beaker-wall - and > hopefull this is where the nanobubbles will form. Mark the initial > water level with a piece of tape. Place another control beaker > next to to the charging beaker and mark it also. If all goes well, > the water level in the charging beaker should be higher at the end > of two days than in the control (both will loose water to > evaporation and it is unwise to close the active beaker in case > the conductivity should rise) > > BTW ... and to show how authoritative this idea is - it all came > from a solitary walk at a deserted Point Reyes shoreline, where a > sea lion was following me, but 100 meters out - from outside the > breakers. He seemed to be saying: "us sea mammals have known about > nanobubbles for a long time" (they don't use good grammar ;-) > > >
