30 October 2004 - Vermont

I bid farewell to Palestine.  I have returned home to Vermont and have gone 
from 30 degrees Celsius to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.  At least it feels like 
that.

My last few visits included a Greek Orthodox school in Taybeh, a "quick" 
good-bye in Bethlehem, and hanging out with some Israeli anarchists.

Taybeh.  This farming village is entirely Christian which is unusual because 
most places in Palestine are mostly Muslim.  The school has been relatively 
immune from the problems that other Palestinian schools have seen.  Even so, 
students sometimes are prevented from going to/from school due to 
checkpoints and they feel the same economic woes that all of Palestine 
experiences.  Teachers sometimes have to go for months without pay.  What I 
will remember most about Taybeh, though, is one particular eighth grade girl 
who speaks English well and has a fire in her belly.  As I was leaving, she 
approached me with about 20 questions written out:  "Why aren't you going to 
stay in Palestine?  How are you supporting the Palestinian people and their 
fight for freedom?  If you are a teacher, why won't you stay in Palestine 
and work here?"  Pointed questions from an eighth grader.  She's going to be 
a journalist when she grows up.

My "quick" good-bye in Bethlehem was yet another reminder of the effects of 
occupation.  The day I visited just happened to be a holiday.  Jewish people 
were paying their respects at Rachel's Tomb which is in Bethlehem.  The army 
had the whole area sealed off so that only Israelis could be there.  But 
that's not all.  The army set up road blocks and checkpoints throughout 
Bethlehem and surrounding towns.  Moving around in Bethlehem, normally an 
easy thing to do, became a frustrating labyrinth.  My friend that I was 
going to visit was waiting in her car for over an hour at one of these 
checkpoints.  She decided to get out of her car and walk.  The army detained 
her for an additional 6 hours.  When we talked later that night, her 
response to the whole thing was "I am a survivor."

I hung out with some Israeli anarchists on my last day.  Anarchy brings a 
certain, crazed image to mind, but these were just normal, down-to-earth 
people who are opposed to the illegal occupation and do something about it.  
They regularly join Palestinians in demonstrations, olive harvests, and 
other non-violent actions to resist the occupation.  Apparently, lots of 
people in Israel are against the occupation, but choose to just talk about 
it in bars/cafes.  I guess it takes an anarchist to actually do something 
about it.

During my stay in the Holy Land, I've learned some things about Israel.  
It's a militarized society.  Soldiers, police, guards, and undercover agents 
are everywhere.  Bags are constantly searched.  There is tension all the 
time.  Talking with people was hard because of the tension and the language 
barrier.  Hebrew is the universal language here, not English.  Many of the 
people I did speak with were transplanted Americans.  Their fear/hatred and 
ignorance of Palestinians was quite evident.

Israeli citizens cannot legally enter the West Bank or Gaza.  Citizens of 
the West Bank and Gaza cannot legally enter Israel.  This policy is 
extremely detrimental to peace.  The only Israelis that many Palestinians 
get to see are the army.  The only Palestinians that many Israelis get to 
see are the biased images on TV.  This policy fosters ignorance which 
results in fear and hatred on both sides.

I saw Star Trek Insurrection (sub-titled in Arabic) a couple weeks ago.  
Jean Luc Picard quipped that it's too easy to turn a blind eye to the 
suffering of a people you don't know.  I hope that these reports have 
enabled everyone to see a little better.

Peace,
Joe

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