Hello Flyfishers of Washington State,
I've had several requests for the patterns, etc. for the flies submitted to
the Waflyfishers Fly Swap.
Below are most of the pattern receipes and tips on how to fish them that
were sent in along with the flies.
Thanks to fellow lister Justice Teegarden who has posted photos of the
flies at:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1341408&a=9980798
If any of the swappers who don't find their pattern receipes listed want
to, please post to the list. Thanks again to all who participated. It was
great fun.
Danny McMillin
=================
Peacock X-Caddis -- Jeff Hale
Hook: #14 dry fly
Thread: Brown, olive, or any dark color. 6/0 or 8/0
Trailing shuck: Olive Z-lon, poly-yarn, or substitute
Rib: Olive or Pearl Krystal Flash or 6X tippet material
Body: Peacock herl, twisted and wrapped.
Underwing: Olive elk-hair
Wing: Cream, tan, or white elk-hair
I tie the X-caddis a little different from its original dressing. Craig
Matthews, the inventor of the X-caddis (which is really an off-shoot of Al
Troth's Elk-hair caddis), uses a dubbed body and a natural wing. The
Peacock X-caddis, uses peacock herl for the body. In addition, I use two
wings, an underwing and an overwing. The olive underwing matches the dark
wing color of the natural, but the light colored overwing allows me to see
it easily on the water. Finally, I rib the peacock with Krystal Flash for
reinforcement and to add some sparkle.
I originally used this fly on Rock Creek in Montana and had great success
with it. In addition, it has been a great producer on the Yakima. It
matches the small, dark colored caddis that belong to the order
Rhyacophila. More specifically, it imitates the species American Granum,
which is our local, dark caddis we see hatching heavily in the spring (but
they are around through September). The Peacock X-caddis sits very low in
the water, and the trailing shuck makes it look like a caddis pupa shedding
its skin, about to become an adult.
Just fish it as you would most dries. I use a long 5X leader with a down
and across or upstream presentation. Fish it on a dead drift, then let it
skate at the end of the drift. At the end of a drift, the fly will pull
under the water. Many times I've had trout take the fly at this time. I
believe they are taking it for the fast swimming, emerging pupa. In
addition, I only use floatant on the wing. I soak the trailing shuck in
saliva, to get the butt end of the fly to sit under the surface, more
closely imitating an emerging pupa/adult.
=====================
A SIMPLE BAITFISH by Charlie Mastro
When I tie flies I always try to make it simple and easy flies and this is
my favorite baitfish pattern.
Materials:
Start with a 6 or 8 salt water hook like a Tiemco 9394, red Krystal Flash,
pearl Kystral Flash, white and chartreuse bucktail or I like to use
FisHair because I like the way the color looks in the water.
Recipe:
Tie the white FisHair on the top of the hook and turn hook over and tie in
the red gills and cut short.
Turn hook over and tie in pearl Krystal in front of white FisHair and then
tie the chartreuse and form the head by wrapping tread and finish off with
epoxy. If you like paint some eyes on and cover with epoxy.
Fish it:
I use a intermeate clear sinking line or floating line. I try not
to wade in the water and cast out 40 feet or so and strip the fly in using
a varity of motions, some times slow and jerky to look like a wounded
bait fish or fast like a fleeing fish. A lot of times the fish will take
the bait near the surface and you get to see the whole thing happen.
=====================
Carey Special -- Ray Wallace
Hook- Mustad 3399A or similar
Thread- Black
Tail- Krystal Flash (I like Copper)
Body- Chenille (Red is my favorite)
Hackle- Pheasant Rump (I like to use the longest hackles)
The original version used pheasant for the tail and had a tinsel rib.
The Carey is my favorite lake fly. I carry several different colors in sizes
#12-#4. I usually have the best luck with a sink tip line. I just experiment
with different retrieves until something works.
============================
Damsel Nymph -- Tim Colman
Paddle fin: Partridge wing feather
Abdomen: Clear larva lace colored to match
Thorax: Three strands of twisted marabou
Over-wing Three to four strands of marabou
Eyes: Mono
Head: Either dubbed or wrapped marabou
Rib: fine gold wire (optional)
==========================
Jumping Jack -- Tom Bolender
Hook: size 6-12 2Xlong Light Wire Dry fly
tail: antron, darlon or z-lon
Butt: white floss
back wing: elk hair
Hackle: grizzly dry fly
body: antron, darlon or z-lon
legs: rubber
===========================
Easy Rider foam dry fly -- Danny McMillin
Hook: Orvis #1510 size 14 curved nymph hook
York bend, straight-eye, 3X-long for stonefly nymphs
(the 3X-long makes it a size 10 length hook)
thread: color to match foam body
body: Darice Foamies foam 3/32" thick by 3/16" wide
over
body
hair: super hair Chartruse/crystal flash green or any flashy hair
under
wing: white thin open cell foam cut to wing shape
like the kind used to wrap electronic components
bullet
head and
overwing: bleached elk/deer hair
legs: brown multicolored legs from Orvis
===========================
Directions for tying:
1) start thread on hook, wind to bend.
2)cut foam into strips approx. 3/16" wide. (I bought red, white, black and
yellow 9 x 11" sheets of Darice Foamies for 44� a sheet at Walmart.) I trim
the end of the strip to form the butt of the fly. This hangs off the end of
the hook. Tie in foam at the bend of the hook leaving an extended butt. I
leave the strip of foam long and cut to fit after fly body is tied in.
.
3)after three wraps over the foam, wind thread forward under the foam
strip. I now add a drop of Zap-a-gap to hook shank.
4)take 3 wraps over foam to form first balled segment. Again wind thread
forward under foam strip and add Zap-a-gap. repeat to form several body
segments stopping short of the eye leaving room for the bullet head. tie
off and cut excess foam strip (use for next fly).
5)I color the butt segment on the yellow foam Easy Rider with a "true
green" prismacolor pen. I run a stripe of prismacolor dark brown on the
top, side and bottom of the foam body. When tying a white body, I leave the
white foam uncolored so it can be colored to taste on the river.
6)tie in several strands of super hair Chartruse in front of the tied off
foam and on top of foam body. Trim so it extends a little past the end of
the hook.
7)tie on pre-shaped underwing of thin open celled foam at same location as
hair on top of foam body. it should extend over bend of hook same amount as
super hair. color top and bottom of wing with black or brown prismacolor
pen. this gives the wing a mottled look.
8)in front of foam, tie in small amount of elk/deer hair, tips facing bend
of hook, ends extending over eye of hook. measure before tying so elk/deer
hair overwing will extend back past bend of hook and underwing. I hand
stack the hair to give a slight uneven profile to finished fly.
take 2 loose wraps of thread around deer hair. pull tightly, keeping hair
on top half of fly. take several more tight wraps forward to eye. trim tips
of hair close. wrap thread back to hair tie-in point. pull elk/deer hair
back toward rear of hook.
9)wrap 3 times around deer hair to form head and over wing.
10)tie in rubber legs madam x style.
11)whip finish.
====================
I orginally tied this up to immitate the yellow sally stoneflies I've been
finding on the Snoqualmie River. I like keeping the bullet head somewhat
sparce and on the top half of the fly. This keeps the fly riding in the
surface of the water. Tie bushier for faster water.
I found the cutts of the Snoqualmie hitting it dead drift and with
twitches. One also took in after it sunk and on the swing.
Danny McMillin
