Interesting comments, Phil.  An acquaintance gets all worked up about
whether a reel weighs 5.2 ounces vs. 4.8 ounces, etc.  Heck, I don't want
some of those lighter ones, because there is a certain point at which
durability is sacrificed for weight.  And, a 200# guy shouldn't be worrying
about an additional 1/2 ounce between reels.  Note that I said "shouldn't" .
. .

Uplocking vs. downlocking, metal seats vs. graphite seats, light reel vs.
heavy reel, large arbor vs. standard arbor, DT vs. WF, 8'6" rod vs. 9'0"
rod, 2 piece vs. 3 piece vs. 4 piece vs. 5 piece, WW Grigg vs. Sage vs.
Orvis vs. Heritage, blah blah . . . it all makes for discussion and more
products to sell and own.  <grin>

Richard

----- Original Message -----
From: "Karen Crandall & Phil Marie-Rose" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: Reel seats? Uplocking vs. downlocking.


> I don't think I've said anything to upset anyone in awhile, so it's about
> time I do!  "Balancing" a reel and a rod has been one of my pet peeves for
> almost as long as I can remember.  I can't tell you how many well meaning
> folks have come into the shop and tried all kinds of reels on a rod they
> were interested in.  some going as far as taping coins to the reel until
it
> all balanced perfectly right at their grip point, and then they would ask
to
> use the shop scale to find the "perfect reel weight".
>
> If they were cool about things I would talk to them before they got that
> far, if they were know it all jerks (and you know who you are out there
> folks!) I would wait until they asked for the scale and then ask them:
"how
> much line you expect to be out of the guides on your average cast?"  Most
of
> them would understand the question and buy whatever reel they wanted and
not
> worry about the weight.  Others wouldn't even come close to grasping it
and
> would peel 45 feet of  line off the reel and want to weigh it again and
add
> that to the equation, which if funny on many levels.
>
> That's one reason two of my most used reels are an Orvis Vortex, and Pate
> Tarpon (aka the "coffee grinder") .  They can always double as Anchors in
a
> strong wind.  Worrying about weight and its placement on the rod makes
about
> as much sense to me as worrying if you're using a 95% knot or a 97%
knot...
> Grab what you got and fish with it.  If you're building one, grab what
looks
> good to you and fish with it.  Just fish...  Rant concluded.  I've enjoyed
> it, and I hope you have to.
>
> Phil, who is feeling particularly cranky today because he didn't get to
wet
> a line last night.
>
> P.S.  If he gets to wet a line tonight, he will most likely apologize
> tomorrow.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rderedfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 10:11 AM
> Subject: Re: Reel seats? Uplocking vs. downlocking.
>
>
> > Hmmm, interesting comment, Rob . . . I don't know that many folks who
cast
> > with that much momentum or acceleration to cause that degree of
intertia.
> > I'll work on it . . . my casting stroke must be too wimpy.
> >
> > Here are two other perspetives, both that I've heard before from
industry
> > folks.  The first perspective is balance. If you are familiar with the
> item
> > Abel sells calls the Abel Arm, it's an angled reel foot extension that
> moves
> > the weight of the reel forward and more under the grip.  This places the
> > weight of the reel more towards the grip.  An uplocking reel seat is
> similar
> > in concept, but in a less extreme sense.  In an uplocking reel seat, the
> > weight of the reel is moved more towards the grip and your hand, for
> better
> > balance; a downlocking reel seat moves the weight of the reel away from
> the
> > grip.  Balance, for most rods, would be better if the weight were moved
> > closer to the grip (that which supports the rod/reel/line assembly).
> >
> > The second perspective is the "teeter totter" perspective.  The further
> the
> > weight is from the grip, the larger the 'moment arm', which during a
long
> > day of casting, requires that you use more force to cast.  Think of a
> teeter
> > totter and how it moves relative to if the weight(s) are moved closer or
> > further from the pivot point.  The further weight moves from the pivot
> point
> > (which would be your grip/hand on a fly rod), the larger the counter
> weight
> > (force) on the other side needs to be.  So, the further you move the
reel
> > (as in downlocking reel seats) from the grip, the more force you need to
> > exert at the opposite end (rod tip end).
> >
> > Another item not discussed; the uplocking reel seats protect my reel.
> > Walking along rivers I've fallen a few times where my hand hold the rod
> > jammed on the shore.  If I had a downlocking reel seat, the reel would
> have
> > smacked the rocks.  Instead, my reel seat sacrifices itself for the
reel.
> > So, instead of a beat-up reel, I have a beat-up reel seat end.  Although
> > reel seats can be expensive, they are a whole lot cheaper than a reel,
and
> a
> > scratched up reel seat end won't end my fishing day, where a dented reel
> > could end my fishing for the day.
> >
> > Richard Embry
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rob Blomquist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: Reel seats?
> >
> >
> > On Tuesday 14 May 2002 09:26 am, Kent Lufkin wrote:
> > > A discussion a week or so ago about switching out reel seats has had
> > > me wondering about the difference between uplocking and downlocking
> > > seats.
> >
> > Nobody got into the physics of it:
> >
> > Basically, when you cast, there is an upward force that runs through the
> > rod,
> > and can cause a downlocking reel seat to loosen. Uplocking reel seats
will
> > tighten with this force.
> >
> > I have had many a reel drop off a rod while fishing with downlocking
> seats,
> > but nary a one with uplocking.
> >
> > Rob
> >
> > --
> > Rob Blomquist
> > Kirkland, WA
> >
> > On the side of the software box, in the 'System Requirements' section,
it
> > said
> > 'Requires Windows 95 or better'. So I installed Linux and lived happily
> ever
> > after.
> >
> >
> >
>
>

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