For me, purpose number 1 of dubbing wax is to give
traction to the fingers when spinning the dubbing
around the thread. This is done by waxing my fingers
and not the tying thread and saliva works just as well
most of the time. Angora goat, seal fur and deer hair
are a couple instances when using wax is better but,
to be honest, anymore I dub via the Nor-Vise
spun-dubbing technique when using coarse materials and
no longer need to worry about the hassle.

Purpose number 2 comes into play when I use
LaFontaine's "touch dubbing" technique and this is the
only time I will wax the thread.

Most of the time the thread at the shops is already
waxed, it's just not as tacky as dubbing wax. 

As for brands of dubbing wax, there are a few obvious
waxes out there, and some that aren't so
obvious...like the wax ring from the plumbing supply
store. There's probably enough wax in one of those
rings for this entire list for the next century. Then
there is the cross country ski wax with differing
degrees of tackiness for different types of snow (made
almost obsolete by fish-scale skis). Both the ski wax
and the crapper ring work well but how much wax does
one really need?  

DJ

...and blending your own dubbing is easy and allows
you to come up with blends that are unavailable
commercially; the ultimate in versatility. All you
need is a couple blending cards and some yarn, fur or
hair. To reproduce a certain blend, keep track of how
many inches of yarn (and how small the pieces were
chopped into) or square inches of fur were used.  

--- Ken Shipley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm a novice tier.  Working on my third winter now
> and
> have probably started into my second thousand flies.
> 
> So, I kind of know what I'm doing, but not really.
> 
> My question is, what's the primary purpose of
> dubbing
> wax?  I'd always assumed that it was mainly used as
> an
> adhesive.  Helps stick the fur to the thread.  When
> I
> first got started, I needed all the help I could
> get. 
> But, as I got better at spinning the fur or
> synthetic,
> I have no problem putting dubbing on bare thread.
> 
> Granted, I don't blend my own dubbing.  I buy the
> premixed stuff off the wall at the fly shop.  So, if
> I
> need a super fine blend for a BWO, I get that.  If I
> need a courser mix for GRHEs, I can find that too. 
> Sguard#39;m not cleaning gaurd hairs out of a hare's
> mask.  Wax might be more critical if I did.
> 
> Maybe I'm wrong about the primary purpose.  I would
> think that a fly tied with waxed thread, and the
> attendant waxed dubbing, would be more waterproof
> and
> would float better than an unwaxed version.  Maybe
> that's the primary purpose.  If that's the case,
> though, wouldn't using something like Mucilin be
> more
> effective?  I've been sitting at the bench most
> nights
> now and trying this.  Haven't had a chance to put
> the
> flies on the water yet.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts on this?
> 
> Thanks,
> --ken
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up
> now.
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com


=====
http://www.geocities.com/salmn8r/caddisforkids.html
http://www.geocities.com/salmn8r/furledstinger.html

Please e-mail direct for scheduling and pricing information of fly tying presentations 
and seminars for your club or group.

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com

Reply via email to