Re: Rod for SRC in Salt (Part II)

[The Coles]

Just following up with what I have learned about "long rods" and with a couple of more questions for folks to consider (or ignore).   I have been focusing on trying to locate more moderately priced rods/blanks for this project and have a "short list" of possible candidates.  I will probably end up buying more than one blank but here are the candidates thus far:   St. Croix SCIV  10 ft 6 wt 4 pc Scott A2 10 ft 6 wt 4 pc Winston Ibis 10 ft 7 wt 4 pc All Star Austin 10 ft 6 wt 2 pc   One question I have has to do with rod "action" and "roll-cast-ability".  I am still perfecting my roll-cast technique (my son however seems to have been born with the ability and loves to rub my face in it whenever the opportunity presents itself) and it seems that some rods are easier to roll-cast with than others.  Aside from rod length, what other characteristics make a rod a good candidate for roll-casts?   One other thing I ran across in doing research on longer rods, at one time Sage offered a "semi-spey" (?) RPL and RPL+ in 6 thru 8 weights, in 10 and 11 foot lengths.  Has anyone had experience with these rods?  Any history on 'em?   Steve     ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Santangelo To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 12, 2004 1:20 AM Subject: RE: Rod for SRC in Salt What a great question.  Without looking around to see what blanks are available, here are some things to consider.   Even though SRC's are frequently found right next to the beach, most wading in done in thigh deep water.   When the tide is in, so are the SRC's.  The high tide water line in places like the Narrows is right up against the trees.  That doesn't give much room for a back cast.   Many times the beach behind you will have a steep incline.   The fish almost always seem to be just a couple feet beyond where you cast and a double haul while standing in deep water isn't very easy.   Consider a 10' 5/6 rod.  Put on a fighting butt when building the rod.  Also, use larger guides (especially strippers) to help facilitate shooting line.   The longer rod will help mitigate the loss of height due to deep wading.  It gives the ability to get out a good roll cast.  It can help in getting the fly above the beach's incline.  Use the fishing butt as a handle when making those longer casts by using the double overhand method.   Longer then 10' and the rod becomes too cumbersome for daylong single hand casting.  I have a 6/7 11.5' double overhand rod.  While I can cast it as a single hand rod in a pinch, it is just too heavy for continuous conventional casting.   Also, this would be a great belly boat rod.   Mike      From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of The Coles Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2004 8:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Rod for SRC in Salt   One of my winter projects is to build an affordable yet well designed fly rod that is specifically for fishing cutthroat in the salt.  I just read the section in Les Johnson's new book to get his take on the subject and Les lays out a very practical description for what is needed, particularly with respect to componentry (aluminum or graphite reel seats, salt resistant guideset, and thorough epoxy to seal the guide feet from saltwater intrusion).    I am looking for input from other list members on what their favorite SRC saltwater set up is and why?  So far I am leaning towards a two piece moderately fast action rod 8'8" to 9'6" in length There are lots of candidates for all metal and graphite reel seats that would fit the bill - Struble, REC, T&T, PacBay, Bellinger, et al all offer quality aluminum (and titanium) seats specifically for saltwater use, with prices ranging from $15 - $140 for a seat.  I haven't been able to find an objective review comparing the performance qualities of reel seats, though (does such a thing exist?).  The other design question is whether the "ideal" SRC-in-salt rod would have a fighting butt.  Guides seem easy enough to make decisions about as I'd think that any stainless steel with either black chrome or titanium nitrate finishes would do an adequate job.  What style of grip?  I fish alot with a Scott SAS 906/5 that has a "western" style grip but I am thinking that full wells might be the way to go.  Any insights on grip styles?   That's it for now...  look forward to hearing from you all on my topic   Steve Cole