http://www.atimes.com/atimes/China/HI06Ad01.html

Sep 6, 2006 


Islam with Chinese characteristics
By Pallavi Aiyar


YINCHUAN, China - The muezzin sounds the evening call to prayer. White 
skullcaps glint in the fading brightness of the setting sun as the faithful 
make their way into the mosque. The shush of whispered "salam alaikums" fills 
the hall. Outside, the mosque's minarets stretch up into the sky; a single 
crescent moon decorates the top of the green dome. 

An unremarkable scene were it not for the fact that this mosque is tucked away 
in the landlocked interior of officially atheist and traditionally Buddhist 
China. When the imam preaches, he speaks Mandarin. Under the skullcaps and 
behind the veils of the men and women gathered, there are Chinese faces 
concentrated in prayer. 

Reliable data are difficult to obtain, but China's estimated 20 million to 30 
million Muslims may in fact be the second-largest religious community in the 
country, after the 100 million or so Buddhists. Islam in China is moreover in 
the process of a strong revival, spurred on by increasing trade links with the 
Middle East that have ended the centuries-long isolation of Chinese Muslims 
from the wider Islamic world. 

Orthodoxy among Chinese Muslims is on the rise as ever larger numbers go on 
hajj and youngsters return from their studies abroad in Muslim countries. 
Nonetheless, Chinese Islam retains characteristics that set it apart. The 
communist revolution with its emphasis on gender equality has left its mark 
here. Mao Zedong famously said that "women hold up half the sky", a lesson 
China's Muslims seem to have imbibed well. Female imams such as Nu Ahong and 
exclusively female mosques such as Nu Si play a unique role in the Middle 
Kingdom. 

Islam in China has a long tradition stretching back more than 1,200 years. The 
largest community among the Chinese Muslim groups is the Hui. Numbering about 
10 million, the Hui are descendents of Middle Eastern traders and their 
converts who first traveled to China along the silk route during the Tang 
Dynasty (AD 618-906). Centuries of isolation meant that they blended in with 
the largely Confucian and Buddhist Han Chinese who make up more than 90% of the 
modern nation's population. 

The Hui speak Mandarin and look like Han. The primary way of telling the two 
communities apart has traditionally been the absence of pork, a meat that is 
the primary staple for Han, from the diet of Hui Muslims. The Hui are also not 
to be confused with the other large Muslim minority group in China, the 
Uighurs, who are of Turkic ethnicity and live mostly in the western autonomous 
region of Xinjiang. 

Ningxia Hui autonomous region, a northern region flanked by the Gobi Desert, is 
home to 1.8 million Hui Muslims, or 35% of the autonomous region's total 
population. Ningxia has some 700 officially licensed imams and more than 3,000 
mosques. According to Ma Xiao, vice president of the Islamic Association of 
Ningxia, there are currently more than 5,000 manla, or young Islamic disciples, 
studying Arabic and Islamic doctrine part-time in the autonomous region. 

Certain restrictions continue to apply on Islam, as on all religions, in China. 
For example, proselytizing is strictly forbidden and children below the age of 
18 are not permitted to receive religious instruction at all. Moreover, all 
imams must be licensed by a government-approved body and accept the superiority 
of the state over any religious authority. Nonetheless, as a visit to virtually 
any part of Ningxia will reveal, the Hui embrace their faith with enthusiasm. 

In recent years, Ningxia has benefited from donations worth millions of US 
dollars from the Saudi Arabia-based Islamic Development Bank, which has enabled 
a facelift for The Islamic College in the regional capital Yinchuan, as well as 
the establishment of several Arabic-language schools. 

Interest in Arabic is booming so much so that even the Ningxia Economic 
Institute has begun to offer three-to-four-year-long Arabic courses. Ningxia 
University also opened an Arabic-language department last year. 

At the Xi Guan Mosque in Yinchuan, more than 300 students have begun to study 
Arabic since the mosque started offering a free language course two years ago. 
A third of these are women. Aged mostly between 30 and 70, they say the chance 
to study Arabic brings them closer to their religion. 

"Earlier we were too busy just making a living. Now that we are richer, we have 
more time to focus on the spiritual, and by learning Arabic I can read the 
Koran in the original. As a Muslim this is my duty," said Song Xiulan, a 
40-year-old housewife. 

A hundred miles east of Yinchuan in the small town of Ling Wu, 50 other women, 
their heads covered with scarves, sit in a room reciting verses in Arabic from 
the Koran. They are being taught by Yang Yuhong, one of two female imams at the 
Tai Zi Mosque. Yang received her title from the Islamic Association four years 
ago. She is one of about 200 certified female imams in the autonomous region. 

Yang says she does not see anything un-Islamic about the concept of female 
imams: "There are many things that are easier for women to talk about with 
other women. And everyone, man or woman, has a duty to study and understand the 
religion." 

But this new tradition of female imams in China is less revolutionary than it 
first appears. While the women are granted the title of imam, they are still 
not allowed to lead men in prayers. Their role is more that of a teacher, and 
their students are exclusively female. "The women imams are respected people 
whom the community looks up to, but of course they do not have the same 
religious powers as men. Men and women are equal but their roles are 
different," said Ma from the Islamic Association. 

Ling Wu's Tai Zi Mosque has been rebuilt four times in the past 20 years. 
During the Cultural Revolution (1966-76), most places of worship were 
demolished, and Tai Zi suffered the same fate. Since the 1980s, however, a 
religious renaissance accompanied by increasing prosperity has led to the local 
Muslims donating enough money for four major expansions of the building. 

Ma Zian, the mosque's head imam, is now 80 years old. "I have seen everything: 
the pre-revolution period, the communist accession and the Cultural Revolution. 
I can tell you that at last we are quite free to practice our faith. It's so 
much better for us now," he said. 

But as is often the case in China, the driving force behind this Islamic 
revival is economic. "Other provinces have ports and natural resources. In 
Ningxia we have Muslims. This is our competitive advantage," said Chen Zhigang, 
deputy director general of the Investment Promotion Bureau of Ningxia. 

To exploit this "competitive advantage", the regional government organized for 
the first time a massive Halal Food Exhibition last month, through which it 
aimed to establish connections between the food industries of Ningxia and the 
Middle East. Chen said contracts to the tune of 10 billion yuan (US$1.25 
billion) were signed during the four-day-long exhibition. In Ningxia, Islam and 
trade are blending in a delicate mix to the benefit of both religious and 
secular life. 

But while the Hui Muslims' Arabic-language skills and cultural affinity with 
the oil-rich Middle East are now being seen by the authorities as a valuable 
economic resource, the stronger sense of group identity among the Hui fostered 
by these renewed linkages with the Islamic world is leading to new challenges. 

In the past the Hui were among the least orthodox Muslims in the world. Many 
smoked and drank, few grew beards, and Hui women rarely wore veils. Increased 
contact with the Middle East, however, has wrought changes. Thousands of Hui 
students have returned from colleges in Arab countries over the past few years 
and they have brought with them stricter ideas of Islam. Mosques in Ningxia 
have now begun to receive worshippers five times a day, more Hui women have 
taken to wearing headscarves, and skullcaps are in wide evidence. 

There is a strong identification among the Hui community today with the wider 
problems of the Islamic world. "It's American policy that has given all of us 
Muslims a bad reputation," said Yang, Tai Zi Mosque's female imam, quivering 
with indignation. "We are a peace-loving religion, but look what they [the 
Americans] have turned us into. Look what lies they spread about us," she 
continued. The 50 women surrounding her all nodded slowly in assent. 

For many non-Muslim Chinese, this identification of the Hui with communities 
outside of China is problematic. "Earlier the Hui were just like us except they 
didn't eat pork. Now they think they are very special. They think of themselves 
as foreigners," a Foreign Office official in Ningxia complained. 

The Hui are exempt from China's one-child policy, and affirmative-action 
schemes reserve special seats for them at universities and government 
departments. In interior regions such as Ningxia that have been left out of the 
economic boom of China's coastal region, competition for jobs is intense and 
resentment against the Hui's "special" privileges is increasing. 

Confrontations between the two communities are often sparked by minor 
incidents. In 2004, for example, large parts of Henan province were placed 
under curfew after fighting between Hui and Han left dozens dead. The fighting 
began when a Hui man bumped into a Han girl with his vehicle and refused to pay 
compensation. 

"The main job of every government official in Ningxia these days is to keep the 
peace with the Hui," said the Foreign Office official. 

For the Hui, greater freedoms and contact with the wider world mean they must 
undertake the difficult task of negotiating among their increasingly complex 
identities: at once Muslim, Hui and Chinese. For the Han, the challenge is to 
foster Hui culture without alienating the community from the rest of Chinese 
society. The manner in which both sides address these challenges will be key to 
the maintenance of social stability in China in the coming years. 

Pallavi Aiyar is the China correspondent for The Hindu. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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