Many challenges stand between the home cook and the perfect turkey: the breast meat should be moist and tender without being over cooked; the thigh meat should thoroughly cooked to a temperature about 10 degrees higher than the breast meat; and the skin should be crisp and well browned all over. My three-step procedure requires more time and labor than most other methods, but if you invest the extra effort you will never be disappointed by a holiday turkey again.
The Perfect Turkey Step 1 - Brining Soaking the turkey in a salt and water mixture (brine) before cooking adds moisture and seasoning to the meat - a large turkey can absorb up to a pound of additional water during the process. Use a large stockpot or a clean bucket large enough to hold the turkey. If you don't have a container large enough, consider using an insulated cooler or an immaculately clean trash can lined with a plastic bag. The turkey and brine should be kept at a temperature of about 40F (4C). The best place to brine your turkey would be in the refrigerator, but if there isn't room there, freeze some water in several plastic sandwich bags and add them to the container. Note: If you buy a kosher turkey you can skip this step since the koshering process includes brining. For turkeys up to 15 pounds (7 Kg): 4 cups (1 L) kosher salt or 2 cups (500 ml) table salt 2 gallons (8 L) cold water For turkeys over 15 pounds (7 Kg): 6 cups (1.5 L) kosher salt or 3 cups (750 ml) table salt 3 gallons (12 L) cold water Dissolve the salt in the water in a large pot or bucket. Place the turkey in a container large enough to hold it along with the brine and pour the brine over it, making sure the brine completely fills the cavities. If necessary, place a plate with some weights on it on top of the turkey to keep it submerged. Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours for smaller turkeys, or up to 12 hours for larger birds. Remove from the brine (discard the brine) and rinse the turkey inside and out. Dry thoroughly inside and out with paper towels. Step 2 - Air-Drying You have just spent several hours adding moisture to your turkey, so why do you want to air-dry it now? Because the brine has had the same effect on the skin as it has had on the meat, and if you want a crispy, golden brown skin you need to remove some of the moisture you have added to it. Place the turkey on a wire rack and refrigerate uncovered for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours. Step 3 - Cooking I have here three popular methods of cooking your now perfectly prepared turkey. Oven roasting is the most common method, and has the added benefit of producing wonderful pan drippings for making gravy. Hot smoking (my preferred method of cooking turkey) requires an outdoor covered grill, and deep frying can require a considerable investment in equipment, but it is a method that is rapidly gaining in popularity so I have included it here. Larger turkeys require lower cooking temperatures to ensure the meat is done without burning the skin, and I have included a separate recipe for oven roasting larger turkeys to take this into account. Regardless of the method you choose, be sure your turkey is at room temperature before cooking it. To Stuff or Not to Stuff Regardless of the method of cooking you choose, I recommend cooking your turkey without stuffing. Stuffing should be cooked to at least 160F (71C) in order to be safe, and to accomplish this requires that the breast meat be cooked until it is dry and flavorless. If the perfect turkey is your goal, cook the dressing separately. The following is James Beard's method for roasting turkey, and although it seems fussy, it is the only method I know of for browning the skin on all sides and cooking the breast and thighs to different internal temperatures. Oven Roasted Turkey For turkeys up to 15 pounds (7 Kg) 2 - 3 medium onions, coarsely chopped 2 - 3 medium carrots, coarsely chopped 2 - 3 ribs celery, coarsely chopped 3 - 4 sprigs fresh thyme 4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted 1 whole turkey, brined and air-dried Toss one-third of the chopped vegetables and thyme with 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the butter and place in the body cavity of the turkey. Tie the legs together with a piece of kitchen twine. Place the remaining vegetables and thyme in a large roasting pan and add 1 cup (250 ml) water. Place a V-rack in the pan. Brush the breast side of the turkey with melted butter and place the turkey breast side down in the V-rack. Baste the bottom of the turkey with the remaining butter. Roast uncovered in a preheated 400F (200C) for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and baste with the juices from the pan. Using large wads of paper towels to protect your hands, turn the turkey on its side and roast an additional 15 minutes. Add more water to the pan if it becomes dry. Remove the turkey, baste it, and turn it on its other side. Roast for 15 minutes, then remove the turkey from the oven one more time, baste it, and place it breast side up on the V-rack. Roast until the breast registers 165F (74C) and the thigh registers 175 (80C) on an instant-read thermometer, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the turkey from the oven and allow to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving. Oven Roasted Turkey For turkeys over 15 pounds (7 Kg) 3 - 4 medium onions, coarsely chopped 3 - 4 medium carrots, coarsely chopped 3 - 4 ribs celery, coarsely chopped 4 - 6 sprigs fresh thyme 4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted 1 whole turkey, brined and air-dried Toss one-third of the chopped vegetables and thyme with 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the butter and place in the body cavity of the turkey. Tie the legs together with a piece of kitchen twine. Place the remaining vegetables and thyme in a large roasting pan and add 1 cup (250 ml) water. Place a V-rack in the pan. Brush the breast side of the turkey with melted butter and place the turkey breast side down in the V-rack. Baste the bottom of the turkey with the remaining butter. Roast uncovered in a preheated 250F (120C) for 3 hours, basting every hour with the pan juices. Add more water to the pan if it becomes dry. Remove from the oven and, using large wads of paper towels to protect your hands, turn the turkey breast side up on the V-rack. Roast 1 hour, basting occasionally. Turn the oven temperature up to 400F (200C) and roast until the breast registers 165F (74C) and the thigh registers 175 (80C) on an instant-read thermometer, about 1 hour. Remove the turkey from the oven and allow to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving. The following method is the one I have used for over 20 years. It produces a bird that is a rich, deep mahogany color, and meat that is flavored almost to the bone. The Chef's Own Smoked Turkey 1 turkey, brined and air-dried 2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil 1 large onion, cut into quarters 2 oranges, cut into quarters 2 - 4 sprigs fresh herbs such as rosemary or thyme Hickory chips soaked in water for smoking Rub the turkey with the oil and place the onion, oranges, and herbs in the body cavity. Cook in a covered charcoal grill by the indirect method, with the hot coals pushed to the sides of the grill (I use a well known spherical brand) and with a drip pan directly under the turkey, adding a handful of wood chips and additional charcoal every 45 to 60 minutes. Cook to an internal temperature of 175F (80C) in the thickest part of the thigh, from 2 1/2 to 4 hours, depending on the temperature in the grill and the size of the turkey. (I prefer to cook at a lower temperature, about 300F (150C), giving the bird more time to absorb the smoke.) The turkey should be a rich, dark mahogany color when done. Remove from the grill and allow to rest uncovered for at least 15 minutes before carving. Deep-frying turkeys is a Cajun tradition that has been gaining in popularity in recent years. You will need a 10-gallon (40 L) pot, a propane burner, and a tripod for the pot. The only practical place to do this is outdoors, and once the flame is ignited it should never be left unattended. Please be sure that no children or pets are allowed near the pot at any time. Deep-Fried Turkey 5 gal (20 L) peanut oil 1 turkey (up to 15 lbs, 7 Kg), brined and air-dried Heat the oil in a 10-gallon (40 L) pot over a propane burner until it reaches 375F (190C). Carefully lower the turkey into the oil (this is a two-person job) and slowly raise and lower the turkey in the oil a few times until it sinks to the bottom of the pot. Adjust the flame to maintain the oil at 325F (160C) and cook for 4 minutes per pound - a 15-pound (7 Kg) turkey should cook in 1 hour. Carefully lift from the oil and drain on several layers of paper towels or brown paper bags. Allow to rest uncovered for at least 15 minutes before carving.
