The life and death in Rongshui of Francoise Grenot-Wang
http://www.blackandwhitecat.org/2008/12/18/the-life-and-death-in-rongshui-of-francoise-grenot-wang/#comment-50823

The Xinhua headline was like a dagger in the heart. A fire had killed
one person in Rongshui county, Guangxi. A Frenchwoman was missing. As
I clicked on the link to open the article, I desperately hoped it was
someone else. Someone else’s tragedy. But it could only have been one
person - Francoise, who meant so much to so many people and without
whom thousands of Miao, Dong and Yao girls would have grown up
illiterate, never having gone to school.

The fire broke out in the wooden house she had built late in the
evening on December 9. When firefighters had extinguished the flames
they discovered a body too charred to be absolutely certain of its
identity without DNA tests. Francoise had not been seen since.

She was about to go to Macau to raise more money for the children,
their schools and communities. Alliance Francaise announced the event
was canceled “for unexpected reasons.”

It’s nearly ten years since I first knew Francoise. We worked for
different departments of the same publishing group in Beijing and
lived in the same complex. But it was more than a month before we
actually met because she was simply not there for so much of the time.
She took every opportunity she could to go back down to Guangxi to do
what she really wanted - walk through the mountain villages, compiling
lists of all the girls who could not go to school (virtually all the
girls in every village) and find sponsors to pay for them. Friends
often covered her shifts and pocketed her salary.

She arrived there by accident after a chance meeting in a queue in
Guilin. The person she met was a doctor working in Danian township for
Medicins Sans Frontieres. They needed an interpreter. Francoise had
been working as a tour guide for some time, but gladly took the chance
to do something more meaningful. As soon as she arrived in Danian, she
knew this was where her soul belonged.

Going from village to village with MSF, she was shocked to find no
girls at all in any of the schools. The average annual income was 300
yuan and it cost about the same to send a child to school. If a family
could scrape together enough money for the fees, it was spent on a
son. Daughters worked in the fields and tended ducks and cows. If they
ended up in factories, they could hardly speak Mandarin, let alone
read it, making them one of the most vulnerable and exploited groups
of people in the country.

Some years earlier, Francoise had started a small organization called
Couleurs de Chine that researched the culture of minorities in China.
It now radically changed its focus, finding sponsors, mostly in France
and Belgium, for the Miao, Dong and Yao girls in Rongshui.

Things didn’t all go smoothly. The local government was divided about
Francoise. Some cadres believed she could help the township and its
villages develop. Others were suspicious of her motives and thought
she was a troublemaker. At one point, early on, they banned her from
ever setting foot in Danian again. But she couldn’t stay away and one
day she sneaked back. To her amazement, she was not only allowed to
stay, they gave her a plot of land to build a house.


In 2000, she left Beijing, which had only ever been a temporary
necessity, and went back to live in Danian for good. With funds raised
by Couleurs de Chine, local craftsman built a beautiful three-storey
house which became her home, her office and a hotel. It’s guests were
Europeans, mostly French, who she took up through the mountain paths
into the villages where they learned about the lives of the local
people, met the girls they would sponsor and took back with them a far
greater understanding of a culture than they could ever hope to have
in any other way. All the money they paid for their visit was
channeled into the local schools and communities.

Couleurs de Chine and its sponsors paid for thousands of girls to go
to school, some of them going on to university. It built new schools
in the villages and a dormitory in the township.

Francoise was passionate about the work she did and the people she
whose lives she shared. She was fiercely proud of their culture, their
strength, their history. And she was proud that they were her friends.
She was determined that they should develop and escape grinding
poverty, but equally determined that they should not lose the culture
that had evolved over thousands of years, only to become sellers of
trinkets for tourists.


I took the picture directly above in a village near Danian in May
2001. The picture above it, of Francoise’ house before it was
destroyed by fire, is from her blog which she began in November, 2007.
The one at the top is from here.

Below is a translation from a blog post written by a Chinese friend of
Francoise, just after the news of her death.

Elegy to Fang Fang (in mourning for the French mother of the Miao
mountain children)


On December 9, 2008, a blazing fire carried my French friend Fang Fang
away into the sky along with her beloved wooden house, that museum of
ethnic culture. She became a distant rainbow, always, forever,
remaining in the great Miao mountains that she devoted herself to for
ten years, remaining in the hearts of more than 5,000 children she
loved and helped.

When the tragic news of your death arrived, I simply couldn’t believe
it! Just one week earlier, we climbed together up to the Miao villages
and visited Dong homes. Together, we braved the dangers of the river
and together we listened to the songs of the Miao. You pulled me along
with you up the precipitous mountain paths. During the Dong toasting
songs you urged me, who never touches a drop of alcohol, to drink that
symbol of friendship. Together, we talked about life and ideals.
Together, we edited your essay, crafted with meticulous care for ten
years. The bamboo basket you sent me hangs in my living room, the Yao
mountain tea still wafts its faint scent and the precious Miao
embroideries you sent are gathered in the wardrobe, still waiting to
send your affection out to other places. Those DVDs, recording your
life and the children unable to go to school, lie gently in the
drawer, still waiting to be appreciated by more friends….

Just two days before you went away, the sound of our laughter still
reverberated in the computer. I asked you when you would come to eat
jiaozi. You said the Euro had dropped and funds were tight. You had to
go to Macau to give a fundraising lecture. On March 10, you would come
to my home. You joked that I shouldn’t worry about cleaning my place
up. All this remains vivid, like yesterday. How can I believe it? How
can I imagine that you have gone like this?!

Perhaps you really were an angel sent by God, your mission completed
and returned to heaven. Ten years ago, no shadow of a girl could be
seen in the schools. Today, more than 90 percent, even one hundred
percent of girls go to class. Your painstaking work wasn’t wasted! The
first female Miao and Dong university students have returned and,
influenced by you, have devoted themselves to their villages. The
State has also changed for the better. Miao mountain children no
longer have to pay so many fees to go to school and every day they are
given free lunch. More and more people in the mountains send their
daughters to school. At Danian Middle School, heavily financed by your
Couleurs de Chine, all miscellaneous fees have been abolished. The
dormitory is free and, if the children bring some rice, so are all the
meals.

Every day, you were busy in the mountain villages. Every day you
hurried along the mountain paths. One after another, you repaired and
rebuilt old school buildings. One after another new schools sprang up.
Stilt-houses still resound with your hurried footsteps. The warmth of
your words is still felt in the homes of the girls you helped. For the
sake of young girls who had had to leave school, you made the hard
journey to Guangzhou, traveling so far to bring child laborers back
home. You worried so much about children sent out to work and you
rushed from one place to another, making appeals for the future of the
Miao villages! You really wore yourself out. Your work never stopped:
by day in the mountain villages, by night under the light of a lamp.
One contribution after another, you personally made sure was used
properly. One letter of thanks after another, you personally wrote.
Perhaps God had pity and wanted to let you rest. He knew how deeply
you loved these mountains. He knew how deeply you loved everyone here.
You said in your last life you must have been Miao. You said this was
your home that you had searched long and hard to find. God knew how
much you hated the cold and used this strange way to let you live
forever in the flames, nirvana in the flames, forever remaining in
your beloved Miao home!

Perhaps there were things that God overlooked. Perhaps there were
things he did not take into account. He knew you raised money to help
children study, but he didn’t know you were also a scholar of ethnic
culture. You immersed yourself in historical texts of the Miao and
devoted yourself to research of Miao culture. “There are two ethnic
groups in this world that have been through many hardships but have
survived to be strong: they are Miao in China and the Jews scattered
throughout the world.”*[see note below] These words by the
ethnographer Geddes ring out in your book. You gave your deep love to
the people here. You walked from one mountain village to another in
search of Miao customs and culture. You interviewed white-haired
elders to understand the condition of the local people. You hated the
erosion of traditional ethnic culture. You exhaustively researched
Miao songs, Miao clothing, batiks, embroidery and ancient crafts. It
didn’t matter if you were in the land of the Miao or in Paris, you
always wore Miao clothes and you almost forgot your own language. You
said: there are ten million Miao, as many people as Belgium. I wear
their clothes and speak their language to show my respect for them!

Inspired by you, more and more French people, Belgians, Europeans and
Americans began to understand Miao history and culture and began to
come to these great mountains. In one village after another,
ramshackle drum towers, symbols of Dong culture, were restored. Drum
towers that had burned down were built anew. Miao baby bags, Dong
embroidery and Yao medicine went to homes all over the world. Bamboo
baskets, carrying poles and homespun cloth flew to all corners of the
Earth. Traditional ethnic culture has amazed the world! You are an
envoy of ethnic culture. You are rainbow over the Miao mountains.

There are no tears or sorrow in heaven. You should rest. In heaven,
watch over your Miao mountains. In heaven, listen to your Dong songs.
In heaven, care for your Miao mountain girls. Maybe the reason God let
me know was to help you complete your goal. Our book is now finished -
it’s just a shame that I never received your last additions. I will
tell your story to all Chinese people. Even more people will go into
the Miao mountains. Even more will help the people there. Rest! My
friend, rest! Forever my dearest companion!!!


On Dec 18, 10:01 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> It is written in French, but so beautiful pictures took by this French
> traveller, Françoise Grenot-Wang, since one year ago.
>
> http://fangfang.over-blog.com/
>
> I hope you like them.
>
> Peace and best wishes.
>
> Xi
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