A seismic upheaval among Latin America's Indians

  By Richard Gott
  The Guardian | June 11, 2005
  http://www.guardian.co.uk/comment/story/0,3604,1504058,00.html

The crisis in Bolivia has put the continent's entire balance of  
power in question

When the Spanish conquistadors arrived in the mid-16th century on the
immense plains of the bleak plateau that forms the westerly part of
what is now Bolivia, they paused for a while at a settlement not far
from the rim of a great canyon. At 12,000ft they found it too cold,
and they made their permanent base in the relative shelter of the
slopes below and founded the city of La Paz.

The village of El Alto on the high plateau, which 30 years ago was
home only to the capital's international airport, has now become a
huge metropolis of nearly a million Indians, driven there over the
past 20 years by the irresistible force of neoliberal economics. The
prevailing economic system, devised by US economists in the 1980s,
succeeded in destroying the country's agricultural system and its
embryonic industries, and closing down the state-owned tin mines -
once the source of the wealth of Spain. This predictable disaster
brought hundreds of thousands of workless but highly politicised
families to live at the gates of the capital city, from where they
have been able to hold it to ransom at will. Others migrated to the
lower regions of the country, to the Chapare, to grow the profitable
crop of coca leaf, the base of cocaine.

Only one road connects La Paz with the outside world, and it has been
controlled since the middle of May by the irate Indians of El Alto.
Every capital city in Latin America is much the same: a tiny enclave
of unbelievable privilege surrounded by a gigantic swamp of poverty.
But nowhere is this clash of cultures so vivid, so dramatic and so
desperate as between the wealthy canyon of La Paz, home to the heirs
of the original white settlers, and the freezing high plateau of El
Alto, housing the breeze-block shanties of the expropriated indigenous
population.

The demands of the Indians have been uncompromisingly radical. They
make no mention of work or food, education or health. They have only
two specific requests: a new constitution that would recognise the
part that they should play in the government of the country (in which
they form more than 60% of the population of 8 million), and the
return to the hands of the state of the country's reserves of oil and gas.

Oil was nationalised in Bolivia first in 1937, a year before the
Mexican wells were expropriated that were once Lord Cowdray's, and
again in 1970. The shell of the state company, YPFB, still exists, and
most Bolivians remain implacably hostile to foreign ownership, but
private oil companies have kept coming back. When immense reserves of
natural gas were discovered in the 1990s, some 50 trillion cubic feet
at the last estimate, Bolivia became ever more attractive to external
predators, its reserves second only to those of Venezuela.

The government and the companies (British Gas and Spain's Repsol among
them) were keen to get the gas out of the ground and down to the
coast, to be shipped off to California. Others, notably the spokesmen
for the Indian majority, thought that the gas might be better used to
fuel Bolivia's own industrial development. The government's attempts
to secure the export of the gas through Chile, Bolivia's traditional
enemy (ever since, in the 1880s, the Chileans seized the territory
through which the gas pipeline would have run), ended in October 2003
when violent protests in El Alto led to the overthrow of President
S�nchez de Losada, Bolivia's last elected president. This week's
events have been an almost exact replay, with the resignation of the
stop-gap president, Carlos Mesa, after prolonged Indian demonstrations
and roadblocks had made the country ungovernable by his regime.
Something new was required.

The chief emerging protagonist in the next stage of Bolivia's drama is
Evo Morales, an Aymara Indian from the high plateau who became the
organiser of the coca growers in the Chapare, in the headwaters of the
Amazon. From this base of desperate landless peasants and politicised
former tin miners, he has become a national figure, allying the
socialist rhetoric of the traditional Bolivian left with the fresh
language of the indigenous population, now mobilised and angry.

A man in his 40s, a leftist of great charm and charisma, Morales leads
the Movement Towards Socialism, and is an outspoken supporter of
Castro's Cuba. He is also a favourite son of Venezuela's Hugo Ch�vez,
whose wider ambition has been to replicate the revolution of Sim�n
Bol�var, a Venezuelan who liberated the countries of the Andes from
Spanish control in the 1820s and whose name is immortalised in that of
Bolivia. The Americans have accused Ch�vez of providing Morales with
assistance at the presidential election in 2002 (in which he came
second), and this would hardly be unusual since all parties in Bolivia
depend on external patrons, whether from Europe or the US. Morales has
certainly taken a leaf from Ch�vez's book in demanding the holding of
a constitutional assembly to draft a new constitution. This was
Ch�vez's triumph in 1999, modernising and radicalising the country
with a single blow before the forces of opposition could mobilise to
prevent him.

The crisis that came to a head on Thursday night, as the congress met
to accept President Mesa's resignation in the old colonial capital of
Sucre (away from the protesters in La Paz), was a triumph for the
Indians. The danger had been that the presidency would fall to
Hormando Vaca D�az, the president of the senate and a wealthy white
landowner from the lowland eastern region, centred on the city of
Santa Cruz. He had the support of the largest parties in congress but
was opposed by the Indians. The area around Santa Cruz is the
principal wealth-producer of the country, with the soya fields of
agribusiness on the surface, and oil and gas underground. This is the
land of more recent white settlers, rich and racist, who have been
opposed to the political emergence of the Indian majority in the
western high lands, and to the Indian resistance that has emerged to
challenge them in the lowlands. The organisation of the elite white
groups has been asking for autonomy - some even argue for independence
- and has unilaterally called for a referendum on this issue in August.

Everyone knew that Vaca D�az was unacceptable to the Indians and,
under pressure from the leaders of the armed forces and the Catholic
church, he declined the task. So too did Mario Cossio, the second
constitutional choice. It fell to the third in line, Eduardo
Rodr�guez, president of the supreme court and a man without political
affiliation, to take up the challenge. Fresh elections will be held
before the end of the year, and Morales's demand for a constituent
assembly is on the agenda.

If Morales eventually emerges as Bolivia's elected president, the
entire relation of forces in the countries of the Andes will be
changed, since comparable indigenous movements in neighbouring
countries are also demanding their proper share of power. Yet there
have been many false dawns. Observing events in Bolivia, an
experienced Brazilian has suggested, is like "watching the train of
history pass by on many occasions without the Indians ever securing a
ticket to ride". Not since the end of the 18th century has such a
seismic upheaval occurred among the continent's indigenous peoples.
This time things may be different.


(Richard Gott's book, Hugo Ch�vez and the Bolivarian Revolution, will
be published by Verso in July. [EMAIL PROTECTED])







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