A Mountain Tsunami Rattles Kashmir's Fragile Peace

  By Sandip Roy,
  New America Media | October 10, 2005
http://news.pacificnews.org/news/view_article.html?article_id=4d0c982021e19796cfc1a3c93eabd265

Editor's Note: Though it's being described as a Pakistani earthquake,
in fact the Oct. 8 temblor shook both sides of the Line of Control in
Kashmir, the Himalayan territory claimed by both India and Pakistan.
PNS editor Sandip Roy looks to a Kashmiri poet to find the hope that
may lie hidden within an enormous tragedy.

SAN FRANCISCO--Today I miss Agha Shahid Ali. The Kashmiri poet died in
2001. Only he, the self-exiled poet from what he called "the country
without a post office," could have made sense of the irony of an
earthquake that in one mocking fissure kicked the Line of Control
between India and Pakistan into rubble.

Though it rocked aquariums in New Delhi and collapsed buildings in
Islamabad, the earthquake's real punch was reserved for Kashmir, the
contested Himalayan territory over which both Indian and Pakistan have
fought wars and which remains an emotional minefield for both sides,
almost six decades after independence.

Pakistani newspapers describe the death toll in "Indian-held Kashmir."
The Indian dailies talk about the devastation in "POK" or "Pakistan
Occupied Kashmir." But looking at the pictures it's hard to tell from
which side of the line of control they come. As Agha Shahid Ali wrote,
"In the lake the arms of temples and mosques are locked in each
other's reflections."

I long for his poet's eye to make sense of the omens and symbols of
this "mountain tsunami." It came while the Muslims were observing
Ramadan. The Hindus were celebrating Durga Puja when the mother
goddess comes home from her Himalayan abode.

What symbolism does one read into reports that the earthquake
shattered two piers of Aman Setu (Peace Bridge), a key bridge joining
the two parts of Kashmir and over which the Srinagar-Muzaffarbad bus
was supposed to ply in a fragile gesture of peacemaking? There is very
little possibility of the bus plying on the route on its next
scheduled date on October 20, a defense spokesman told the Press Trust
of India, according to Rediff.com.

It would have been a brave, romantic omen of peace if the bridge had
withstood the quake which took with it at least 50 soldiers. But
perhaps peace can spring yet from the rubble? Indian Prime Minister
Manmohan Singh was quick to offer "any assistance with rescue and
relief which you may deem appropriate" to Pakistani president Pervez
Musharraf. Musharraf, while gracious, demurred, saying it was "sensitive."

While people still remained buried under houses and hillsides, few
were talking about peace. The Pakistani daily News International
quoted a shopkeeper in "held" Kashmir as saying "(India) helped
America after Katrina but there is no help for us from Delhi."
Meanwhile the Hindu has a headline saying starkly "Pak Rules Out Joint
Relief Ops."

But editorials in other Pakistani newspapers like Dawn complained "the
government's ability to cope with such a catastrophe was found
extremely wanting." The Hindustan Times in India lectured the Indian
government saying, "It is one thing to talk about 'disaster
management' and quite another to practise it." It was probably cold
comfort for either editorialist to notice that neither New Delhi nor
Islamabad was quite prepared for the "big one" despite living near the
fault-line where the subcontinent is slamming into Asia to produce the
still-growing Himalayas.

But there were steps forward. The two foreign secretaries spoke for
the first time over a recently activated hotline that the two armies
said they might use to coordinate rescue operations. And the Greater
Kashmir newspaper reported that the Mutahida Jihad Council, an
umbrella organization of 14 militant outfits based in Muzaffarabad,
has decided to suspend operations in the quake-hit areas and instead
urged its cadres to help the victims. On an e-mail list I subscribe
to, one poster wondered if the quake and the landslide had managed to
do what no one else seemed to have had the guts for -- bury Osama bin
Laden in his hiding place in the mountains of the North Western
Frontier Province. I wonder what he thought as the world shook around him.

There is one other person I thought of when I read the news of the 7.6
temblor. Shenaz Kausar, a citizen of Pakistan-controlled Jammu and
Kashmir, jumped into a river in 1995 to commit suicide. Instead she
washed up on the Indian side, where she was arrested as a spy. Raped
by the prison guard, she had a daughter. In 2001 the Indians tried to
repatriate mother and daughter back to Pakistan, but the border guards
refused to accept the child, an Indian citizen. Both returned and the
Indian government, unsure what to do, invoked the Public Safety Act
and threw them back into jail until a crusading lawyer got them freed.

Did Shenaz Kausar's daughter with her star-crossed bloodlines have the
last laugh today, as the earth split into two to show, as Agha Shahid
Ali wrote, that we are stitched to each other's shadows?

Today I miss Agha Shahid Ali amid the ruins of a Paradise Lost. But I
still hear him say with the kind of prescience only a poet can have:

"I am being rowed through Paradise on a river of Hell; Exquisite
ghost, it is night."

Roy is host of "UpFront," New California Media's radio program on KALW
91.7-FM in San Francisco. 







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