Bill,
I heard of this technique, "crop and flop" where the central leader bends
on its own. Can't see a problem with helping the process along with some
string,
Thanks for the ideas,
Hugh


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 9:02 AM, Fleming, William
<w...@exchange.montana.edu>wrote:

> Tree height in a high density orchard depends on your latitude, row width
> and orientation i.e. N-S or E-W.
>
> While a short tree might be ideal if you want to go ladderless at our
> latitude here in Montana 12 foot tall trees oriented N-S with a 14’ drive
> row take maximum advantage of the sun.
>
> I’ve seen an online calculator for this but don’t recall where. My bet is
> google knows though.
>
> To stop or slow down trees from growing taller I just head back to a
> weaker side branch, hopefully one that has fruited, or you can bend down
> the central leader to 45° or less with string once it gets to the desired
> height.
>
> I never cut the central leader till it reaches the desired height.
>
>
>
> *Bill Fleming*
>
> *Montana State University*
>
> *Western Ag Research Center*
>
> *580 Quast Lane*
>
> *Corvallis, MT 59828*
>
>
>
> *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
> apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
> *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 10:06 PM
>
> *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
> *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
>
>
>
> Makes sense to me now.
>
>
>
> I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had
> is, "Why is it important to not cut the leader?"  Seems like an idea
> situation to me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are
> self supporting and cut the top out every year to two to control the height
> of the trees.  Another thought is that the dwarf trees are really large
> trees, in my mind - 10+ feet.  Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about
> 7 feet would be idea, planted a foot apart - wild thoughts...
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula <sbib...@maine.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hugh,
>
>
>
> What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a
> ultimately similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high
> density plantings, with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support
> needed and fewer trees per acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree
> life than with straight dwarf rootstocks.
>
>
>
> I have a few sloped and curving fields that don’t lend themselves to
> post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.
>
>
>
> Steven Bibula
>
>
>
> *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
> apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
> *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM
>
>
> *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
> *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
>
>
>
> Steven,
>
> Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems?
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula <sbib...@maine.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
> I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is
> about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That
> is, does anyone have experience with this.
>
>
>
> Steven Bibula
>
>
>
> *From:* apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:
> apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] *On Behalf Of *Hugh Thomas
> *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
> *To:* Apple-crop discussion list
> *Subject:* Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
>
>
>
> Rich,
>
> I'm curious about your location and elevation.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett <reofar...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell
> anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases
> from powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh,
> we've juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the
> toughest apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck
>
>
>
> On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly <kelly...@metrocast.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the
> 15 probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look
> sometime.
>
>
>
> Art Kelly
>
> Kelly Orchards
>
> Acton, Maine
>
> On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:
>
>
>
> I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I
> also plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon
> Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row,
> any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My
> thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf,
> maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go
> with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last
> longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact,
> U-Pick friendly fruiting wall.
>
>
>
> Steven Bibula
>
> Plowshares Community Farm
>
> 236 Sebago Lake Road
>
> Gorham ME 04038
>
> 207.239.0442
>
> www.plowsharesmaine.com
>
>
>
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>
>
> Rich Everett
>
>
>
> Everett Family Farm
>
> "Fine Organics From Seed to Core"
>
> reofar...@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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