The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 840 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
Re: <E21> Market for the older stuff
<E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Re: <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Re: <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Re: <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
<E36> M3 chain noise?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 14:26:15 -0700
From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
That happened to me on a couple of 2002s. In one case gas leaked
through the hole for the level sensor connection, which was a
rivet-like shaft through a plastic block. I fixed that by pounding
on the rivet some. In the other case gas leaked through a cracked weld
between the top plate and the supply tube. I soldered that. In both
cases I did the work outside the car after a careful airing out.
Those kinds of hacks are fine if you're comfortable doing them and
remember to check their durability often. It's a lot safer, of course,
to replace the leaking assembly.
Curt Ingraham
Oakland, CA
Jeff Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have a question regarding the common "top of gas tank" leak: My leak
> (in a sept '94 built) '95 M3 seems to have returned (it's on the pass
> side). At first I figured that I just can't put a hose clamp on
> correctly, but after replacing the 2 hose clamps and the 5" diam rubber
> gasket (that goes between the tank and the pump top) - and actually
> replacing both twice - I have a new suspicion.
>
> After watching my tank (Filling it up and then by driving with the tank
> covers off and watching for leaks at every stoplight or pulling
> over)...it seems to be leaking from one or both of the electrical
> connections (around the plastic housings/connectors) that plug into the
> top of the pump cover.
>
> Has anyone seen this before? Is there an easy fix (epoxy on the inside
> or something) or should I look at replacing the plastic pump top?
>
> Thanks, Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 14:48:55 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com, Jeff Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
There's also an item called, no kidding, "plastic crack sealer"
available at electronics supply houses. Thoroughly clean all surfaces
before applying. It cures hard. I used this to seal the MAS sensor to
the tube, and no leaks two and a half years later. Once this sealer
hardens, you can apply a layer of gray Permatex silicone, a
non-hardening compound, over it in case of cracks.
I've also seen bondo (body filler) used successfully to close up
gas tank leaks. Great stuff.
Good luck,
Barry
Curtis A. Ingraham wrote:
> That happened to me on a couple of 2002s. In one case gas leaked
> through the hole for the level sensor connection, which was a
> rivet-like shaft through a plastic block. I fixed that by pounding
> on the rivet some. In the other case gas leaked through a cracked
> weld between the top plate and the supply tube. I soldered that. In
> both cases I did the work outside the car after a careful airing out.
>
> Those kinds of hacks are fine if you're comfortable doing them and
> remember to check their durability often. It's a lot safer, of
> course, to replace the leaking assembly.
>
> Curt Ingraham
> Oakland, CA
>
> Jeff Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I have a question regarding the common "top of gas tank" leak: My leak
>> (in a sept '94 built) '95 M3 seems to have returned (it's on the pass
>> side). At first I figured that I just can't put a hose clamp on
>> correctly, but after replacing the 2 hose clamps and the 5" diam rubber
>> gasket (that goes between the tank and the pump top) - and actually
>> replacing both twice - I have a new suspicion.
>> After watching my tank (Filling it up and then by driving with the tank
>> covers off and watching for leaks at every stoplight or pulling
>> over)...it seems to be leaking from one or both of the electrical
>> connections (around the plastic housings/connectors) that plug into the
>> top of the pump cover.
>>
>> Has anyone seen this before? Is there an easy fix (epoxy on the inside
>> or something) or should I look at replacing the plastic pump top?
>>
>> Thanks, Jeff
>
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
>
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
--
The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh.
I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and
use a Mac. " Author Unknown
Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product.
-- Ferenc Mantfeld
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 08:05:53 -0500
From: "Batt, Jeff \(GE Healthcare\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "JKerouac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks for the replies all....I actually found the leak...I removed the
fuel pump from the tank last night and found that one of the 4
electrical connectors looks slightly melted (and is brown in color) and
the pin connector that is supposed to be molded into the pin hole is
actually in there loosely enough to see light (and thus allow gas)
through it.
It's a little scary that this looks to be burned or melted...but judging
from the gas smell issues I've had, I would say it happened at least 6
months...and more likely years...ago (six months was the first time I
noticed gas smell - but that was a bad hose clamp).
I priced a new pump assy (everything but the pump) and found one for
$160...on the other hand, there seems to be enough of the plastic there
to easily epoxy the pin permanently into place. Not sure which road
I'll take yet...the epoxy seems easy, but things burning in my gas tank
is a little disconcerting.
Thanks again, Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: JKerouac [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 4:49 PM
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com; Batt, Jeff (GE Healthcare)
Subject: Re: [UUC] gas smell - 95 M3 question
There's also an item called, no kidding, "plastic crack sealer"
available at electronics supply houses. Thoroughly clean all surfaces
before applying. It cures hard. I used this to seal the MAS sensor to
the tube, and no leaks two and a half years later. Once this sealer
hardens, you can apply a layer of gray Permatex silicone, a
non-hardening compound, over it in case of cracks.
I've also seen bondo (body filler) used successfully to close up
gas tank leaks. Great stuff.
Good luck,
Barry
Curtis A. Ingraham wrote:
> That happened to me on a couple of 2002s. In one case gas leaked
> through the hole for the level sensor connection, which was a
> rivet-like shaft through a plastic block. I fixed that by pounding on
> the rivet some. In the other case gas leaked through a cracked weld
> between the top plate and the supply tube. I soldered that. In both
> cases I did the work outside the car after a careful airing out.
>
> Those kinds of hacks are fine if you're comfortable doing them and
> remember to check their durability often. It's a lot safer, of
> course, to replace the leaking assembly.
>
> Curt Ingraham
> Oakland, CA
>
> Jeff Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I have a question regarding the common "top of gas tank" leak: My
>> leak (in a sept '94 built) '95 M3 seems to have returned (it's on the
>> pass side). At first I figured that I just can't put a hose clamp on
>> correctly, but after replacing the 2 hose clamps and the 5" diam
>> rubber gasket (that goes between the tank and the pump top) - and
>> actually replacing both twice - I have a new suspicion.
>> After watching my tank (Filling it up and then by driving with the
>> tank covers off and watching for leaks at every stoplight or pulling
>> over)...it seems to be leaking from one or both of the electrical
>> connections (around the plastic housings/connectors) that plug into
>> the top of the pump cover.
>>
>> Has anyone seen this before? Is there an easy fix (epoxy on the
>> inside or something) or should I look at replacing the plastic pump
top?
>>
>> Thanks, Jeff
>
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ____
>
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
--
The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh.
I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it
off and use a Mac. " Author Unknown
Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft
product.
-- Ferenc Mantfeld
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 23:55:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: <E21> Market for the older stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
E21's have been in my family since 1979. Your right there really isn't a
market for them any more that is why I kept every single performance
upgrade I bought for mine and stored them in my parents attic when I sent
the car to the scraper because of repeated engine trouble due to my
stupidity as a teenager. My father and I rebuilt it twice in six years
(the motor). It had a close ratio dog leg tranny which I sold three years
ago and I used the money to buy my current BMW, an 87 325. I have always
liked the e21's and the way that they look. I remember reading that
between the years of 1977 to 1983 some 700,000 were sold in the U.S.
alone. They cannot be forgotten!! Restore that S.O.B!
My father still has his which is rusting away because he purchased a 91
318is recently. He rebuilt the motor a couple of years ago and did not
replace the wrist pins so when the motor is running there is an apparent
slapping or ticking noise which drives him nuts. To him it is a sign of
failure I guess. I am trying to buy it from him, but he thinks the car is
worth a $1000. Anyway, they are good cars and run well if you upgrade to
the electronic ignition that replaces the points (Pertroniks I think).
After I upgraded mine I had no trouble with cold starts, hesitation etc.
I just had a tendency to spin rod bearings :)
I always wanted a liscence plate on mine that read "4gtnBMW"
No one in the club looked twice at mine until I said it had a close ratio
tranny, then it was "how much do you want for it?"
Ryan-
> Bob's email prompted me to send this email. I'm in the mode of thinking
> about selling my '77 320i. I have had plans to recondition it back to new,
> but lately I'm thinking to sell it. There just doesn't seem to be a market
> for the old E21's. Even the dismantlers aren't interested. Anybody know
> why
> this is?
> The other direction is to get a piece of land with a barn and store it
> till
> the time is right.
>
> Thanks, Kevin
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
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> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 09:38:27 -0500
From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi all,
Just want to pick the collective brain. I am thinking about buying an
E30 M3 to drive to work most days, am I nuts? The maintenance doesn't
scare me, I have survived two semi-project E28 M5s. I currently use my
E30 325i convertible for most days and mostly enjoy it, but being a
ragtop it is on the loud and rattling side of the fence and honestly I
wouldn't mind a bit more power. I like the E30 M3s and you can't argue
the unique factor and the resale strength. Anyone else out there still
driving one daily? I know they have a reputation as being coarse and
buzzy, but many of them had to have been daily drivers when new. I
would use the M3 in tandem with the convertible for a while and
eventually sell one of them, so it could be a trial drive if I buy the
M3 right...
Regards,
Paul Craven
93 325ic - needs more speed and less rattle
99 528iT - doesn't matter, it is hers
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 10:43:18 -0500
From: "BMWBits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Paul Craven'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Paul , I drove one for two years every day in Seattle's worst traffic .
What you WILL (guaranteed ) get tired of quicker than anything else is
being challenged at EVERY stoplight by ricers, El Caminos and small
pickup trucks ..ALL of which have much better off-the-line performance
unless you are prepared to run it up to 5k before dropping the clutch .
Youlearn just to ignore them -or you buy shares in Sachs .
If your commute has lots of wide-open twisties be prepared for your wife
asking why you are ALWAYS smiling when you get home ...NOTHING compares
...NOTHING !!
Oh yes , I parted out two of them so have lots of parts in dry storage
..
Bill Proud
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Craven
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 9:38 AM
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: [UUC] <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Hi all,
Just want to pick the collective brain. I am thinking about buying an
E30 M3 to drive to work most days, am I nuts? The maintenance doesn't
scare me, I have survived two semi-project E28 M5s. I currently use my
E30 325i convertible for most days and mostly enjoy it, but being a
ragtop it is on the loud and rattling side of the fence and honestly I
wouldn't mind a bit more power. I like the E30 M3s and you can't argue
the unique factor and the resale strength. Anyone else out there still
driving one daily? I know they have a reputation as being coarse and
buzzy, but many of them had to have been daily drivers when new. I
would use the M3 in tandem with the convertible for a while and
eventually sell one of them, so it could be a trial drive if I buy the
M3 right...
Regards,
Paul Craven
93 325ic - needs more speed and less rattle
99 528iT - doesn't matter, it is hers
Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 .
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 09:39:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-- Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Anyone else out there
>still driving one daily? I know they have a reputation as being
>coarse and buzzy, but many of them had to have been daily drivers
>when new.
I daily drove mine for 2-3 years out of the 5 that I had it. It was
more reliable when it was a daily driver. I even drove it one winter
and it was the most fun I've had driving a car in the snow (with snow
tires of course).
Since you know it'll be loud and buzzy and can live with that then I
think you'll be fine. It's also still an E30 so you get all the issues
that come with an old E30. This is where finding a really nicely
maintained one (and paying a premium for it) makes a difference. If
all the suspension bushings have been changed, brakes rebuilt, tranny
seals changed, shifter components replaced, all oil leaks solved, etc,
then it'll make for a more enjoyable experience.
The engine is of course one the most important things to check in this
car, good compression and leakdown, proper maintenance (valve
adjustments, timing chain components serviced, etc). It is a little
scary how much some of the stuff for the S14 costs. Even a stock
rebuild is pretty outrageous. But anyway, find a nice one, high
mileage would not scare me away as long as it's had proper maintenance,
daily drive it and enjoy. A track event now and then is good for it
though (Italian tune-ups!). :-P
Cheers,
-Carlos.
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 12:51:04 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: <E30> M3 Commuter Car?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I drive my E34 M5 every day, so I don't think an E30 M3 would be much
trouble. The problem is once you get above 200K miles, a rebuild is pretty
pricey. Nothing else is a big deal, except perhaps getting enough insurance
money if it gets wrecked.
Gary Derian
> Hi all,
> Just want to pick the collective brain. I am thinking about buying an
> E30 M3 to drive to work most days, am I nuts? The maintenance doesn't
> scare me, I have survived two semi-project E28 M5s. I currently use my
> E30 325i convertible for most days and mostly enjoy it, but being a
> ragtop it is on the loud and rattling side of the fence and honestly I
> wouldn't mind a bit more power. I like the E30 M3s and you can't argue
> the unique factor and the resale strength. Anyone else out there still
> driving one daily? I know they have a reputation as being coarse and
> buzzy, but many of them had to have been daily drivers when new. I
> would use the M3 in tandem with the convertible for a while and
> eventually sell one of them, so it could be a trial drive if I buy the
> M3 right...
>
> Regards,
> Paul Craven
> 93 325ic - needs more speed and less rattle
> 99 528iT - doesn't matter, it is hers
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 13:53:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: <E36> M3 chain noise?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hey all,
I just had my VANOS replaced along with the secondary
timing chain and secondary tensioner (on the head).
The noises I had a while back have reduced greatly,
but there is still a rattling/buzzy noise when I
accelerate under increasing load (from about 30 mph in
3rd). It does sound like a patterned noise, so I am
thinking it is the primary timing chain. The owner of
the shop I had the work done at (Bimmers Clinic in
Reseda, CA), whom I am friends with and trust
considerably said that he wasn't worried about the
noise. I just want a smooth, noise-free engine. The
primary tensioner was not changed as part of the
service, but I am wondering about the group's thoughts
about just changing the tensioner. Would a new
tensioner on an old chain cause greater wear and
stretching of the chain? Or should I just go ahead
with it? From the looks of it, when the valve cover
was off, the primary tensioner looks like the old
style, not the updated one (p/n 405 081).
Thanks,
Brian
95 M3
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(9 messages)
**********
