That’s more or less correct.  I don’t recall how it was secured into the 
aluminum- I’ll be at the boat later today.     As far as I could tell the deck 
is solid glass in that area and as far as I remember the bolts were not 
fastened to the plate.   (Though my Memory isn’t what it was.).  Doesn’t 
matter, work at it slowly and thoughtfully and it will reveal itself.  Unless 
it was glued together….  

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 3, 2023, at 3:45 PM, Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Dave and Doug. I'll go down to the boat tomorrow, and try wedging 
> and maybe hammering.
> 
> I've added a sketch of how I think this thing works: the rod below is headed 
> over like rod rigging, captured in the cabin fitting, and held to the deck 
> fitting with the 4 bolts. I think all the parts must be SS for this to work 
> (30+ years). Dave, you've seen it all apart, please correct me.
> 
> Unless the round-headed bolts are welded to the deck fitting, I don't get how 
> they resist turning when the nuts are backed off or tightened. 
> 
> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateSketch.jpg
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> Telamon Technologies, Inc.
> POB 396, Rockport, ME 04856
> 207-763-4691, mobile: 207-542-2312
> adri...@telamontech.com
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:30 AM, Dave S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The design on the 33-2 chainplates is pretty good- actually I haven’t seen 
>> better - imho.  I won’t try to describe it but you remove the bolts, the top 
>> plate (and bottom if you wish) clean both up, (I polished mine, couldn’t 
>> help myself) clean up the deck and rebed  with butyl.  
>> It was done with butyl from the factory, so maintenance is a breeze, and it 
>> should be easy to remove the bolts by tapping from below with a mallet. I do 
>> not believe they are welded to the plate - 99% sure.  
>> You can also separate the deck fitting from the deck by tapping in a thin 
>> wedge a small amount - then wait - then tap again.   Then wait.  I use a 
>> thin, sharp putty knife to start.     Then switch sides, then wait.  The 
>> butyl is elastic and comes apart slowly, give it time.  Patience is your 
>> friend.  
>> If more force is require to tap the bolts, reinstall the nuts in reverse but 
>> don’t tighten them.  Tap on the nut not the bolt.  Be careful though- if you 
>> really go to town you’ll learn about cold welding of stainless.  (Shouldn’t 
>> require that in this case). 
>> Good luck.  If no wise guy used 5200 or similar in the past  it should be an 
>> easy job.  
>> Dave 
>> (33-2 with one chainplate re-bedded a few years ago.)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:16 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Looking at your pictures. I think you have corrosion between the bolts and 
>>> the aluminum backing plate. At least I'm guessing the backing plate is 
>>> aluminum. You might try penetrating oil for several days.  Good luck. 
>>> 
>>> Douglas Mountjoy
>>> 1988 LF 39
>>> Mexico at large
>>> 1984 Sabre 34
>>> Port Orchard, WA
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jun 3, 2023, 06:43 Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> I want to re-bed the chainplate covers on my C&C 33-2.
>>> 
>>> Please help me understand how they are fastened. I have undone the 
>>> cabin-side nuts on the 4 bolts, but they are resisting my efforts to 
>>> withdraw the bolts from the deck-side, where the bolts have round heads. 
>>> 
>>> A socket wrench on the cabin-side nuts unscrewed them easily without 
>>> needing a wrench on the deck-side.
>>> Are the bolts welded to the covers?
>>> 
>>> To lift the cover without damage to cover or boat:
>>>  Do you hammer on the bolts from below?
>>>  Do you lever the covers up from the deck side?
>>> 
>>> Images here:
>>> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateCabin.jpg
>>> 
>>> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateDeck.jpg
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Adrian Humphreys
>>> Epilogue, Rockport ME
>>> C&C 33-2 
>>> adri...@telamontech.com
>>> 
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> Stu
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