Allan,
The first thing to suspect is the wattmeter diodes in the KAT2 - I would
arbitrarily replace them - they are 1N5711 type. That should cure your
power setting vs. actual power problem.
Set the 2 pots on the KAT2 as instructed in the manual after replacing
the diodes.
In fact, remove the KAT2 until you get the rest of the K2 working, then
check the power setting vs. the actual power output. The wattmeter
diodes may be at fault, but eliminate the KAT2 until after you have the
base K2 working properly.
As for you other problem of RX not working, yes a BFO reading of All
zeros says something is wrong with the BFO (or the probe) - fix that
first before going onto the ATU/power output problems. It is possible
that U11 or one of its components has failed. Again fix that first.
Remove the KAT2 and work into a 50 ohm dummy load until that is resolved.
Check the K2 internal probe by trying it into TP1 or TP3 to make sure it
is working. If the probe has a fault, it may be leading you down the
wrong path. Remove the heatsink and check for a broken connection at
either end of the capacitor. It that is the case, you can use any 10pF
capacitor - I use a disk ceramic with both leads spread out to make the
connections.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/27/2023 5:59 PM, Allan Forster wrote:
Hi,
I found that the actual power out did not match my setting, eg. I set 10 watts
but power meter reads 14 Watts.
Simple to calibrate the auto ATU or so I thought. While adjusting the 2 pots on
the ATU the rig suddenly powered down. When I switched it back on the RX was
not working, I followed the alignment procedure and it seems that the BFO is
dead. Ie. In CAL FIL the BFO reading is all zeroes
Any ideas?
Regards
Allan G4NNJ
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