I'm in the process of building a K1, I'll be sure to check the key
jack carefully.  I guess it would be best to wire the straight key,
which is all I use for now, to a stereo plug anyway.

73 de Joseph Durnal NE3R

On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 11:22 AM, crstrode <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> MGFoster Wrote:
> I turned on the K1 & tested to see if the problem still existed - it
> did.  Turned off the K1 & unplugged, & exposed the bottom of the RF
> board.  Powered up & inserted a bent component lead into the Dits &
> Ground - OK.  The same on the Dash & Ground - OK!  Plugged the paddles
> back in & it worked OK.
>
> OK, so what happened there?
>
> //////////////////////////////
>
> This is very similar to my experience building K1 #2476 last month.  First
> try with the paddle resulted in strange behavior - can't recall the exact
> details, but very similar to your experience.  After I unplugged and
> re-plugged a time or two all was well.
>
> I also vaguely recall a similar phenomenon when K2# 3777 was built.
>
> It almost seems like a micro-controller initial startup hiccup.
>
>
> I'm guessing the notoriously spooky key jack may have had some debris, poor
> mechanical alignment, stiff contacts, etc.
>
> I was particularly careful when soldering the key jack to the board - just
> enough heat to flow, but not melt the flimsy plastic housing.  I've
> experienced more than one failure of these (both K1 and K2 key and headphone
> ) jacks so I always keep a spare on-hand.  Both rigs are woking A-OK (at the
> moment) but I do try to limit the in-out cycles as much as possible to delay
> the inevitable jack failure.
>
> Carl
> WA7CS
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://www.nabble.com/K1%3A--Inp-Menu-Item-Pdn-Only-Allows-Dits-tp15468892p15481259.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
>
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