EV Digest 5404
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: What people want/level of expertise to get an EV started?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: EVLN(LiX-75: The 200-mph Electric Car)
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Lee regs, take 0.1
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: I'm confused...
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: EVs in Australia?
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Introduction - Where I am coming from
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Introduction - Where I am coming from
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: What people want/level of expertise to get an EV started?
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: What people want/level of expertise to get an EV started?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RAV4ev on EBAY
by Danny Ames <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: How much battery capacity would this require?
by "Garret Maki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Lee regulators, 0.2
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Precharge alternatives
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: High current 200 V Schottkys for freewheeling- who makes them?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Lee regulators, 0.2
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Lee regulators, 0.2
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: NiCd bus on eBay
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Efficiency, was What people want/level ...
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: EVLN(Airbus using a fleet of Smith EVs to increase plant efficiencies)
.. 2 questions ....
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Introduction - Where I am coming from
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) EMB's
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Tour de Sol Press Release (long)
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: High current 200 V Schottkys for freewheeling- who makes them?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: NiCd bus on eBay
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: NiCd bus on eBay
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Gadget's triumph
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Lee regulators, 0.2
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
With the recent jump in gas prices, people have been showing a renewed
interest in my EV, even people who thought it was a waste of money
before. Responses to the fact that I spent 8K to convert it have gone
from a long list of cuss words exclaiming how ludecrous they thought it
was to "Thats not too bad". I think that is because some of them have
looked at new car prices for the first time in a few years and are
seeing how a big increase in car payment can net them a not so big
reduction in their gasoline bill. 4 to 5 people a day tell me how much
they are spending a week to fill up their cars and you can just see them
doing the math. When they "get it" they start asking how long the moptor
lasts and how often to replace the batteries.
Now If I can just find out why I am getting 460wh/mile, I might get a
taller soapbox.
checking brakes,alignment.
LRR tire question.
What is avialable in a 215/60-15? What experiances have you guys had,
like/dislike.
I would like to go LRR if it doesn't detract from traction too much.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Mullen GT web site says their kit car can do 0-60 in 3.1 seconds
and 180 mph with a 400 hp V8. Weight to power is 5 lb/hp. Claimed
weight is 2000 lbs. I believe these numbers are possible. So far so
good.
Hybrid Technologies is supposed to electrify the car. Let's see, to
get 400 hp you'd need about 400 kg of Li batteries, and a couple of
AC propulsion drive systems. I estimate the car would be 2600 lbs,
probably could hit 180 mph, maybe could do 0-60 in about 3 seconds,
weight-to-power of about 6.6 lbs/hp (but electric has a fatter torque
curve). Now the next step up, 3 AC Propulsion systems and 600 kg of
Li batteries -- car weighs about 3300 lbs, probably could break 200
mph, and has 5.5 lb/hp (but recall electrics have a fatter torque
curve). Would all that fit in the car?
So maybe it can do it, I certainly hope it can, but 0-60 in 3 seconds
and 200 mph is going to be tough.
The Hybrid Technologies web site says they have 20 million shares of
OTCBB stock for sale.
--- bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> EVLN(LiX-75: The 200-mph Electric Car)
> [The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
> informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
> --- {EVangel}
> http://www.chemistrynews.it/pages_1945191.html
> Meet LiX-75: The 200-mph Electric Car
> April 10, 2006 7:40AM
>
> "It's the environmentalist mid-life crisis vehicle," says Richard
> Griffiths, head of business development at Hybrid. "It's a sports
> car that performs like a Porsche Boxster, looks like a Ferrari,
> and has zero emissions."
>
> You want to do right by Planet Earth. You want to drive a car
> that's easy on the environment. But most electric vehicles look
> like glorified golf carts. And you'd have to look like Leonardo
> DiCaprio to get lucky in a Prius. A fledging Las Vegas-based
> company called Hybrid Technologies thinks it has the solution.
> Hybrid will launch a car it calls LiX-75 at the New York Auto
> Show on Apr. 14. The sleek, $125,000 sports car runs off of
> electric batteries, boosted by solar panels on the trunk.
>
> It recharges in four to six hours from a regular three-prong
> electric socket. And the company claims it will go from zero to
> 60 miles per hour in three seconds and hit a top speed of 200
> miles per hour.
>
> "It's the environmentalist mid-life crisis vehicle," says Richard
> Griffiths, head of business development at Hybrid. "It's a sports
> car that performs like a Porsche Boxster, looks like a Ferrari,
> and has zero emissions."
>
> 'Next Generation'
> The LiX will utilize lithium ion batteries, big versions of the
> kind that power laptop computers. Because they can store more
> energy and degrade less quickly when not in use than the nickel
> metal hydride batteries used in hybrid cars today, they're
> rapidly becoming the technology of choice for electric-car
> developers.
>
> "Lithium chemistry is widely acknowledged to be the next
> generation of battery power," says Lindsay Brooke, senior editor
> of the Society of Automotive Engineer's magazine.
>
> Hybrid Technologies is banking on it. The company has had a
> roundabout route to electric power. Previously called Whistler
> Investments, it has been involved in everything from mining, real
> estate, and oil and gas to medical software and a coffee
> franchise.
>
> Griffiths says the company is now making electric-powered
> versions of PT Cruisers, Chrysler Crossfires and Mini Coopers for
> customers such as N.A.S.A., the British government and the state
> of California.
>
> The LiX -- the name is a play on the periodic chart symbol for
> lithium, Li -- is similarly taking an existing car frame and
> plopping in an electric motor. In this case, it's a car called
> the Mullen GT, made by tiny Mullen Motor of Los Angeles. Arthur
> Allen, owner of the company, says the Hybrid Technologies
> collaboration happened by chance.
>
> He has been selling a gasoline version of the GT for the past
> five years. In January, he brought one to the big consumer
> electronics show in Las Vegas, only as a model to show off an
> entirely different product. His snazzy ride caught the eye of a
> Hybrid Technologies rep attending the show and a deal was cut,
> putting Hybrid's engine in Mullen's car.
>
> Coming Soon
> Griffiths says the LiX will take four to six hours to charge and
> get about 100 miles from each visit to the plug. He says the
> company will be ready to start delivering the cars in about eight
> weeks from a new 40,000-square-foot production facility it built
> in Mooresville, N.C.
>
> The high-end electric car market has been tapped before with
> limited success. San Dimas (Calif.) based AC Propulsion launched
> a 200 mph electric sports car called the tzero in 2002. Another
> curvy electric, the Venturi, made its debut at the Los Angeles
> Auto Show in 2005. It cost a staggering $660,000.
>
> "If you've got that much money to spend, people are looking at
> conventional sports cars that might gain in value," Cogan says.
> "It's way beyond the reach of most early adopters and
> environmentalists who might step up to the plate."
>
> But Anthony Pratt, alternative-fuel specialist at automotive
> research J.D. Power & Assoc., sees a bright side to Hybrid's
> efforts. "What vehicles like this accomplish is raising awareness
> about this new technology," he says. "It helps to shatter the
> perception that electric and hybrid-electric vehicles lack
> performance." And someday that'll mean more sexy,
> environmentally-friendly cars.
>
> © 2006 Business Week Online. All rights reserved.
> © 2006 Sci-Tech Today. All rights reserved.
__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
Ok, I got the parts from Mouser and built a little Lee light regulator.
Cute. Sure enough it does seem to crank away at .5a when the battery is
up at 15 volts or so. I can overdrive it and gas the test hawker by
upping the charge current, but I think I see that it will bypass .5a of
current to the other "not full" batteries.
It definitely seems to get bright enough to fully light the lamp at 15
volts. I wonder if I could trigger a light sensitive transistor. That
could then be used as the gate for a +5 volt source to a set of 4-16
Muxes allowing me to monitor the battery full lights with a simple 8 bit
bus.
Hm.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi David,
In regards to your battery needs I can give you our car/commute as a data-point.
Car is a 91 Daihatsu Charade, with 120V of 170Amp.hr T-875s. My wife drives it
to work and back -- 30km round trip, almost all 80 - 90km/h. Many traffic
lights. Quite hilly. About the worst sort of trip for a flooded battery EV :-)
Requires approx 50 amp.hr of charge returned after such a trip. Data indicates
that at 1hr rate, these batteries can deliver 85 Amp.hrs. Therefore, total
range (over this sort of commute) to 100% DOD would be around 30km * 85/50 = 51
km.
A quick calc. will show you that over this commute we are getting about 200
w.hrs/km, not 200 w.hrs/mile as was suggested on the list. 200 w.hrs/mile
should be easily achievable for a small sedan on flatter terrain with lower
average speeds and less stop+go -- all depends on your commute.
[A not so quick word of warning: near the end of the commute is a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill in an 80 km/h speed area. Gas cars launch off the
line to get up this hill (there's just something about this spot that makes
people racey -- perhaps a holdover from the scramble when it used to converge
into 2 lanes). Our little EV can more or less hold its own at this point, but
I'd hate to try this hill after 50 kms. Keep this in mind -- if the end of your
commute involves any hills, or requires quick acceleration to a high speed,
you'll need to allow a bit extra.]
So, the upshot of this is that if your commute is like ours (and with a
slightly larger, heavier vehicle) you're going to need a somewhat larger
battery pack to reach your required 60km range; or a switch-over to similar
sized AGMs, with higher 1hr capacity, would probably be sufficient. If on the
other hand, your commute is on flat terrain at lower average speeds with few
traffic lights, you'll easily achieve 60km with a similarly sized pack.
Hope this helps: comparing EV ranges, even among similar cars, is notoriously
difficult -- terrain, traffic lights, driving style, typical speeds, and exact
DOD all contribute to produce widely different results.
Of course, this all assumes no 0-100km/h in sub-6 second launches :-)
As far as performance goes, I'm guessing you'll need a motor/controller capable
of around 160kW -- not to mention batteries capable of delivering somewhat
more. As a fairly new lead-sled EVer, I have even less business talking about
this than I do about the above, so I'll leave it to the experts in this area --
but what I do know is that it isn't going to be cheap :-)
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Fowler writes:
> Shari - that is an excellent summary of what's available in
> Aus. Thanks.
I'll second that -- thanks Shari. That's almost exactly the same list I
painstakingly compiled (and forgot to pass on) during our conversion.
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: Introduction - Where I am coming from
This particular vehicle has always impressed me for whatever reason:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/567.html
I see a serious problem with this Suzuki Samarai. The batteries are located
too high which makes the already too high center of gravity even worse. A
way
should be found to install batteries below the floor.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tom Shay wrote:
> I see a serious problem with this Suzuki Samurai. The batteries are located
> too high which makes the already too high center of gravity even worse. A
> way should be found to install batteries below the floor.
How much do those bats weigh? What if you had 4, 200lb people in the
vehicle? Same situation no?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> Now If I can just find out why I am getting 460wh/mile,
I searched, but didn't see your vehicle:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/
What vehicle, weight, and full component list?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Jeff,
For best tires in the LRR type, see:
http://www.fuel-economy-guide.com/best-tires.html
They list five tires.
My sister runs the Bridgestone Blizzak type on her Chrysler. Her drive way
is a long steep winding and if icy, she can walk right up it. I could not
get even started with a non-blissak type of tire.
To see the specs. on these five groups of tires, just type the name of the
tire in you search engine. The closet one that I could used for my EV, is
the Michein Energy MXV4 Plus that has a load rating of [EMAIL PROTECTED] psi
in a
17 inch.
LRR tires are polyester type instead of nylon. Nylon tends to get a flat
spot after been setting in the cold for a while. It takes several miles of
running to round out the tire.
LRR polyester tire have a softer side walls with higher air pressure, makes
it a rounded tire with less resistance to deflection.
My existing tires that I am going to replace, was install in 1985. The are
a high pressure nylon steel belt radial that is a 8 ply tire with a very
stiff side wall. These are down to 3/16 inch thread. They have a load
rating of [EMAIL PROTECTED] psi, which I have them at 52 psi for a 2100 lb load
per
rear tire.
The problem with these tires, that the side walls are too stiff and have a
lot of resistance to deflection when cold.
The best I can get is when the pavement is 100 degrees is about 330 watts
per mile at 2500 rpm in 2nd gear with a overall ratio of 12.0:1 running a
6840 lb EV.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: What people want/level of expertise to get an EV started?
> With the recent jump in gas prices, people have been showing a renewed
> interest in my EV, even people who thought it was a waste of money
> before. Responses to the fact that I spent 8K to convert it have gone
> from a long list of cuss words exclaiming how ludecrous they thought it
> was to "Thats not too bad". I think that is because some of them have
> looked at new car prices for the first time in a few years and are
> seeing how a big increase in car payment can net them a not so big
> reduction in their gasoline bill. 4 to 5 people a day tell me how much
> they are spending a week to fill up their cars and you can just see them
> doing the math. When they "get it" they start asking how long the moptor
> lasts and how often to replace the batteries.
>
>
> Now If I can just find out why I am getting 460wh/mile, I might get a
> taller soapbox.
> checking brakes,alignment.
>
>
> LRR tire question.
> What is avialable in a 215/60-15? What experiances have you guys had,
> like/dislike.
> I would like to go LRR if it doesn't detract from traction too much.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Saw this today,
Danny Ames
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4633576306&ss
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ken,
My FJ1100 conversion uses a series motor and Alltrax controller and is
about 650 lbs, but at 55 MPH average (my guess) I use about 160
WattHours/ mile. That would be 16KWH of usable energy.
Since you have the motor and controller figured out then maybe you can
test it and figure out your wh/m number at your needed speed, but I am
thinking it will be in the 200 though so if you go to 80% discharged at
85v you are looking at
85 v * X ah= (100 Miles * 200wh/m)/.8
X=295 AH
Deep pockets needed indeed.
-Garret
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ken Trough
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 1:10 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: How much battery capacity would this require?
I am trying to make some educated guesses as to sizing a battery pack.
The application is a high performance electric motorcycle of the "sport
bike" variety. Basic race type fairing but not a massive one like a
Vetter, so I know the wind profile is not at all optimal.
I need to be able to travel at 60-80 mph for a total of 100 miles. I
have high draw li-poly cells with integrated BMS for low weight and max
range. I am running at 80-90V. I have the motor/controller and chassis
figured out.
Any guesstimate ranges as to how much capacity I will need to accomplish
this. I know it is going to be a lot of money. I am planning on
$10K-$15K for the battery pack alone based on the cells I am looking at,
so don't bother to tell me this is too expensive to be practical. I
already know. 8^)
Is an 85V 100Ah pack going to cut it? Is that large a pack massive
overkill, or just scraping by?
I understand that some aspects of this are vague. I'll be crunching some
numbers and calculating wind resistance, efficiency and so forth if the
project progresses. Right now I am just trolling for your thoughts on
the project.
Has anyone built a 100 mile, 80 mph lithium powered bike before? If not,
who has come the closest?
If this project moves forward, I will definately share all the data that
I collect for others to benefit from.
Thanks in advance for all responses!
-Ken Trough
V is for Voltage
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM/YM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
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Ok, built regulator #2 with a 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor. This time I
used heat shrink tubing on the wires and used the bench power supply.
They seem to work. Two of them in parallel test cut the light on at the
same time. With the addition of the 10 ohm resistor they will start to
come on a bit later and at 15.6 volts they are bypassing about .6a
The resistor is getting pretty warm at that point (hot to touch). I have
it wired right to the bulb; I think I will be going with 1% tolerance
1/2 watt resistors instead for the set of 50. Yaknow, I really should
put in 1 amp reed fuses, shouldn't I?
Overall a really cute design. Oh yes, the battery will start venting
when full, even at 14.7 volts and under an amp. Very little, but it will
burp a cell cap (put water in stacks, watch for bubble). So much for the
Hawker re-combiner theory.
I have a digital scale (.2 oz resolution, 35lb cap), 6 new batteries,
and enough parts for 60 balancers on the way. Hopefully I'll drop the
pack this weekend, weigh all the batteries, add some water to bring them
to the average weight of the six new ones, then put these clampers in. I
might also put in a few photo-transistors or cds cells just for the heck
of it; anyone have opinions as to which would be better?
Chris
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--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
> Thanks, Lee. I thought the neon would make a nice indicator, but
> there's probably a better way to do it.
If you want something to drop the excess voltage, and want a visible
indicator, then use a light bulb as your dropping resistor. It
automatically hits the solenoid with full pack voltage to pull it in
quickly, then drops to a lower holding current to reduce heat and save
power.
> I've also toyed with the idea of building in a thief-deterrent /
> idiot-mitigater circuit... a hidden toggle switch and solenoid
> combination, maybe at the top of the glove compartment, like this:
> +----------+
> \ |---| solenoid |
> __\__ +----------+
> Switch
>
> When not energized, the solenoid keeps the switch from staying on, which
> disables the KSI. As soon as I stick the key in the ignition, two things
> happen: 1) pre-charge relay closes; and 2) solenoid pulls in. I then have
> to manually flip the switch, or the KSI circuit will never be completed.
> This gives plenty of time for the Curtis capacitors to charge.
>
> When I remove the key from the ignition, the solenoid pops back out and
> turns off the switch.
The Anderson emergency disconnect switch is a commercial version of
this. It looks like a big red pushbutton. Push it in, and as long as the
solenoid is powered, it latches on. It has a big set of contacts to
connect the pack to the controller.
Likewise, you could use a circuit breaker as your switch. They are
available with relay trip coils, which can flip it "off" when you power
the coil.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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I don't think you're going to get better performance than a properly
sized Schottky.
Are you trying to match them to put them in parallel? That's still
hokey. Whichever diode gets hottest draws more current, that doesn't
change. The stability of just starting with diodes matched at room temp
is not reliable in itself. Also the properties will change as it ages
anyways. You need low ohm sharing resistors, but that's inefficient and
probably getting more expensive than just going with a single properly
sized diode anyways.
Schottky in parallel with a MOSFET is a pretty good idea.
Danny
Brad Baylor wrote:
Thanks everyone for the comments!
Rod-
So you're the one with the mongo Schottkys! :-P
Thank you, but based on Lee's comments, I'm going to try some fast
recovery diodes.
I guess I'll get 50 of these and try to match 10:
Ixys DSEI 60-06A, 600 V, 60 A, trr 35ns, $3.34 each for 50 from
Digikey
http://www.ixys.com/93022.pdf
Think 50 is enough to get 10 that are reasonably well matched?
For matching, I guess I'll fashion a constant current source at 50 A,
wait until the temperature stabilizes, and measure the voltage. Do
that for each one and pick 10 that are about the same. Sound good?
Brad Baylor
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--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Zach wrote:
> Ok, built regulator #2 with a 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor...
I used 1/2 watt 10-ohm resistors. The 1/4w is too small.
> I used heat shrink tubing on the wires and used the bench power supply.
That's what I do. I put the zeners in oversized ring terminals, put heat
shrink over it, and fill the space with thermally conductive epoxy. When
you bolt them in, the battery terminals provide the heatsinking.
The lamp and resistor are in a little "bump" in the wire between
terminals. I cover this with heatshrink and fill it with thermal epoxy,
too. This makes the whole thing waterproof.
> 1/2 watt resistors instead for the set of 50. Yaknow, I really should
> put in 1 amp reed fuses, shouldn't I?
You could; but if anything goes wrong, the lamp and/or resistor will
fail open. Wanna test it? wire one backwards across a battery!
> I might also put in a few photo-transistors or cds cells...
> anyone have opinions as to which would be better?
Light bulbs, especially ones running at lower-than rated voltages, put
out more infrared than visible light. Silicon phototransistors are much
more sensitive to infrared than Cds cells.
You can get photodarlingtons with a built-in lens (or add one yourself).
If you can position your lamps in a row, a single photodarlington can
see all of them.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I used 1/2 watt 10-ohm resistors. The 1/4w is too small.
*nod* Ok, that's what I had on the table. The order of 1/2 watt metal
film are on the way.
That's what I do. I put the zeners in oversized ring terminals, put heat
shrink over it, and fill the space with thermally conductive epoxy. When
you bolt them in, the battery terminals provide the heatsinking.
Hm. What do you use for thermal conductive epoxy? Anything in particular?
The lamp and resistor are in a little "bump" in the wire between
terminals. I cover this with heatshrink and fill it with thermal epoxy,
too. This makes the whole thing waterproof.
Looks like I am going to have to get some serious heat shrink tube as
well. Though that would solve the "what happens if the soldered wire to
the lamp lets go" problem..
Light bulbs, especially ones running at lower-than rated voltages, put
out more infrared than visible light. Silicon phototransistors are much
more sensitive to infrared than Cds cells.
Ok, that will work. I'd have to put a voltage on them, but not a big
deal. I'm not going to be able to pull this together by the weekend, but
I'll try to put at least one per 7 battery string or something.
You can get photodarlingtons with a built-in lens (or add one yourself).
If you can position your lamps in a row, a single photodarlington can
see all of them.
Oddly enough the only way I am ever going to fit *anything* in the pack
is to put them right on the battery in the little space between the
humps on the terminals (if you've ever seen a 26ah Hawker, you know
where I am thinking). This is the big problem with any sort of reg; you
can't put them on the battery or aside it. You have a little teeny area
maybe a square inch by .5 inches high and *that's it*. With a plastic
battery cover and the lid over that.
This is why I think there's a chance with these regs; if I run one not
bolted to the battery that lug warms *up*. Attaching that to the battery
will make the battery a heat sink....
Oh wait, BONUS! Of course: The Magne Charger uses a set of seven temp
sensors attached to various battery interconnects to measure battery
temp. When these regs start cranking, they will raise the temp on the
interconnect. The MC will see this, and raise it's temp compensation
(and lower charge voltage) based on the highest sensor. In extreme cases
(currently 35c, but I can change that) it will cut off the charge.
That could be my charge limiter and/or controller.... Hm.
Chris
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Hmm ... seems to be regular STM 5-180 (sounds like SAFT). Last quote I got
was 804 US$/module. Now: I know that NiCads are supposed to have a
long(er) life, what are the odds those batteries are still useable?
Well, maybe somebody on the list would need a partner to bid on that bus?
Sounds as if there would be some interesting stuff in it.
Michaela
> Since it has a 324V system and the NiCd batteries shown are 6V
> (5 x 1.2V cell) as in the photo, you should find 54 batteries.
>
> Charging port looks to be an AVCON, so either the onboard
> charger is not discovered by the seller, or it is missing
> or the AVCON port is used as quick-connect to offboard charger.
>
> It appears these are flooded NiCd batteries, the filler hoses
> have been disconnected but you can see the infrastructure in
> the caps on the photo.
>
> The amp-meter shows + and - 500 Amp full scale. This would
> indicate approximately 160 kW of max drive power.
>
> Success bidding,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
m.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 8:36 AM
> To: EV Discussion List
> Subject: NiCd bus on eBay
>
>
> If this really has 60 monoblocs, $5K startingbid is a deal:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4634553861
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Jeff and all,
Now If I can just find out why I am getting 460wh/mile, I might get a
taller soapbox.
checking brakes,alignment.
I've been getting about 350-400 wh/mile. How is that in relation to
poor/fair/okay/good/great/superb? I'm thinking about "okay". Yeah, 460
sounds high. I have power steering, a blower for the motor, and lots of
digital-dash electrical gadgets pulling me down. What's your story
Jeff? :)
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, and WarP Motors
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
2 Q's :
FIRST :
this is a speacial situation .. the zero emission is not good because
it pollutes less the natural environment .. but because it avoids pollution
"inside" the premises of the airbus plant .. check this out :
> The advantage of using electric vehicles is they are zero
> emission," said Mr Herbert.
>
> Our old diesel vans could only go as far as the factory door,
> then we had to manually move the parts to where they were
> needed.
SECOND :
maintenance costs are less .. life is more .. good .. but the silence
on 'purchase costs' is mysterious .. check this :
> Not only are they zero emission, but they have lower maintenance
> costs and a longer life cycle than diesel or petrol engine
> vehicles.
am i right ? in thinking about left out things ?
..peekay
From: "bruce parmenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 5:05 AM
Subject: EVLN(Airbus using a fleet of Smith EVs to increase plant
efficiencies)
> EVLN(Airbus using a fleet of Smith EVs to increase plant
> efficiencies)
> [The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
> informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
> --- {EVangel}
> http://www.earthtoys.com/news.php?section=view&id=1322
> AIRBUS UK IMPROVES EFFICIENCIES WITH SMITH ELECTRIC VEHICLES
> Visit http://www.smithelectricvehicles.com for further information.
Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The batteries in the pictured Samurai weigh about 1000 lb. 800 lbs of
people
would affect the center of gravity about the same amount. It's debatable
whether
the 1000 lb battery pack or 800 lbs of people would have a worse affect on
stability. I know from experience driving Jeeps that that they handle
worse
and require extra driving care when loaded full of big people.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: Introduction - Where I am coming from
Tom Shay wrote:
I see a serious problem with this Suzuki Samurai. The batteries are
located
too high which makes the already too high center of gravity even worse.
A
way should be found to install batteries below the floor.
How much do those bats weigh? What if you had 4, 200lb people in the
vehicle? Same situation no?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
this is a discussion list for EV's .. so i am a bit
surprised at no discussion on EMB's at all
a few posts that did come thru indicate that
these are not suitable .. more of 'feeling' than fact
what are the facts ? especially the present status
of their development/implementation ?
i'm sure that the usa govt lab guys are not silly
enough to make 'tall claims'
..peekay
___________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 7p a photo
http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
i cannot find any links to see the 'indian' hybrid
anyone knows ?
is the DCE team/guys watching this list ?
the www.dce.org link speaks nothing of this nice project
..peekay
From: "M Bianchi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 1) Delhi College of Engineering in New Delhi, India, with a
one-person car; <http://www.dce.org>
___________________________________________________________
To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo!
Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
> I don't think you're going to get better performance than a properly
> sized Schottky.
Actually, you can!
At 200v, Schottkys are a poorer choice than a conventional "fast" diode.
I'll use specs for some Motorola Schottkys to illustrate (because I have
the data book handy :-)
If Ir Vrrm [EMAIL PROTECTED] Capacitance
MBR2030CTL 20a 75ma 30v 0.58v 1000pf
MBR2045CT 20a 15ma 45v 0.84v 400pf
MBR20100CT 20a 10ma 100v 0.95v
MBR20200CT 20a 3ma 200v 1.0v 500pf
Notice that Vf (the forward voltage drop at rated current) goes up as
Vrrm (the reverse breakdown voltage) goes up. For a 200v Schottky, the
1v forward drop is the same as a plain old silicon diode. Here are the
specs for an equivalent Motorola ultrafast diode:
If Ir Vrrm [EMAIL PROTECTED] cap.
rev.recov.
MUR1620CT 16a 0.25ma 200v 0.975v 200pf 35ns
It has a lower voltage drop, and much lower reverse leakage. It does
have some reverse recovery losses (the diode itself gets hotter due to
switching losses), but half the capacitance (reducing transistor
switching losses).
> Are you trying to match them to put them in parallel? Whichever diode
> gets hottest draws more current, that doesn't change.
True; but if you can match them well enough, and keep them close enough
to the same temperature, they will share the current "reasonably" well.
If you don't mind the labor, it beats having to use lots of little
ballast resistances.
> Schottky in parallel with a MOSFET is a pretty good idea.
It depends on the details of your circuit. Extremely fast MOSFET
switching with a Schottky diode leads to huge current spikes as you
discharge the Schottky's capacitance. It works better if you use some
form of soft switching to limit the peak current.
The easier approach is to use a fast soft-recovery conventional diode.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>Since it has a 324V system and the NiCd batteries
>shown are 6V
>(5 x 1.2V cell) as in the photo, you should find 54
>batteries.
The bus actually has two stings for a total of 104
monoblocks
>Charging port looks to be an AVCON, so either the
>onboard
>charger is not discovered by the seller, or it is
>missing
>or the AVCON port is used as quick-connect to
>offboard charger.
The charger for this bus is a huge three phase unit.
it will run on 240 or 480. If anybody wants this bus I
can get a charger for you for you. contact me offlist.
>It appears these are flooded NiCd batteries, the
>filler hoses
>have been disconnected but you can see the
>infrastructure in
>the caps on the photo.
>The amp-meter shows + and - 500 Amp full scale. This
>would
>indicate approximately 160 kW of max drive power.
This bus has a 3 phase ac drive system, coupled to a
2.75 to 1 reduction gear box. The system is made by
Indramat and is rated at 300 amps, 3 phase, 300 volts.
The motor redlines at 8000 rpm. This is the system I
will be putting into my pickup truck. I need about 30
more of the STM5-180's if anybody knows where I can
get some....
Gadget
visit my websites at www.reverendgadget.com, gadgetsworld.org,
leftcoastconversions.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, Apr 24, 2006 at 10:23:06PM -0500, Michaela Merz wrote:
>
> Hmm ... seems to be regular STM 5-180 (sounds like SAFT). Last quote I got
> was 804 US$/module. Now: I know that NiCads are supposed to have a
> long(er) life, what are the odds those batteries are still useable?
The NiCads in my TEVan are rated for 100,000 Miles of life, but
they are already giving much less then %80 capacity at 20K. I think this
is due to high temperature, and inconsistent watering.
This bus has 72K miles on it. So, I would not be surprised if the batteries
are close to the end of there useful life. But then again, perhaps not?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This car seems like it has taken forever to get on the
road. All the things that I thought had made the car
special made it a real pain... The car started as a
Triumph Spitfire. I spotted a beautiful GT6 through
the fence at a local tow yard for cheap. So I put the
body of the GT6 on the Spitfire Chassis with the GT6
suspension and running gear. Added the doors and hood
from the spitfire and ended up with a very handsome
car. The problem came, when I found out that the GT6
running gear with the lovely oversized brakes, was
only produced for less than 6 months before being
discontinued. WWWELLLLLL I finally got the parts I
needed, and the car is on the road.
A Z1K and an ADC 6.7 are really fun on this little
car. but I think I will use the 6.7 for another
project and opt for a Warp9 with no transmission. The
car is really fun to drive but that little english
transmission with the straight cut gears is really
noisy. With direct drive it would be so quiet. The 6.7
with a Z1K would be great in a motorcycle.
The batteries have been sitting around for a while,
and were really out of balance. I had put them in the
car with rudman mk2b's with the regbuss and had done a
charge on them. they really didn't want balance out.
But I have driven the car three time's in two days. It
is in it's fourth charge cycle and are almost totally
balanced out.
I started out driving the car with the zilla limited
to 500 motor amps for the break in. I have raised the
motor amps to 1000 and have noticed a burning
smell.... It's the poor little clutch! Another reason
to lose the transmission!
I rewired the car yesterday and there are no longer
any signs of Lucas electricals. Now all it needs is
some new rubber and it should rattle a lot less.
Gadget
visit my websites at www.reverendgadget.com, gadgetsworld.org,
leftcoastconversions.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does the epoxy prevent the easy replacment of the light bulb?
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Christopher Zach wrote:
> > Ok, built regulator #2 with a 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor...
>
> I used 1/2 watt 10-ohm resistors. The 1/4w is too small.
>
> > I used heat shrink tubing on the wires and used the bench power
supply.
>
> That's what I do. I put the zeners in oversized ring terminals, put heat
> shrink over it, and fill the space with thermally conductive epoxy. When
> you bolt them in, the battery terminals provide the heatsinking.
>
> The lamp and resistor are in a little "bump" in the wire between
> terminals. I cover this with heatshrink and fill it with thermal epoxy,
> too. This makes the whole thing waterproof.
>
> > 1/2 watt resistors instead for the set of 50. Yaknow, I really should
> > put in 1 amp reed fuses, shouldn't I?
>
> You could; but if anything goes wrong, the lamp and/or resistor will
> fail open. Wanna test it? wire one backwards across a battery!
>
> > I might also put in a few photo-transistors or cds cells...
> > anyone have opinions as to which would be better?
>
> Light bulbs, especially ones running at lower-than rated voltages, put
> out more infrared than visible light. Silicon phototransistors are much
> more sensitive to infrared than Cds cells.
>
> You can get photodarlingtons with a built-in lens (or add one yourself).
> If you can position your lamps in a row, a single photodarlington can
> see all of them.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
