EV Digest 5535
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Prius air-conditioning
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Prius air-conditioning
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Things I'd like to buy from EV suppliers (Update)
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: clutch or clutchless
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: New Flooded Cells
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Expanded Scale Voltmeters and Other Such
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: New Flooded Cells, AC DC an' Stuff
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: New Flooded Cells, AC DC an' Stuff
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) the Mark Brueggemann Meter
by Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Lee's regs in action
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: NEDRA Power of DC Coming Up Sunday June 4
by John Norton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Prius air-conditioning
by "Jim Seibert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) FW: the Mark Brueggemann Meter
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Zilla remote Palm IIIe Interface software
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Vancourver 2006 EV show...
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: New Flooded Cells
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Electric furniture
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Flooded battery isolation
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) converter question
by "john" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: clutch or clutchless
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Prius air-conditioning
by "Peter Shabino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Three-wheel Go-cart
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Flooded battery isolation
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Flooded battery isolation
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Prius air-conditioning
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Help Push an Electric into May's car of the Month!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
> I'm sorry I don't have the URL, but if you google on Prius Air
Conditioning
> you should be able to find it like I did. I read it in the last
couple of
> weeks, and it did have www.toyota in the URL, so I trusted the
information.
>
http://techinfo.toyota.com/public/main/2ndprius.pdf
Cool stuff!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I reviewed the doc and noticed that the A/C motor is
indicated as AC-motor, so it does NOT run straight off
the DC pack, unless it has a DC/AC converter built-in!
Cor (in Bay St Louis, MS)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Death to All
Spammers [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Cc:
Subject: Re: Prius air-conditioning
Sent: 5/28/2006 9:32 PM
Importance: Normal
> I'm sorry I don't have the URL, but if you google on Prius Air
Conditioning
> you should be able to find it like I did. I read it in the last
couple of
> weeks, and it did have www.toyota in the URL, so I trusted the
information.
>
http://techinfo.toyota.com/public/main/2ndprius.pdf
Cool stuff!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- "Peanut" wrote:
> Same deal with CDC. There is currently a HUGE industry for EVs, in
> the hundreds of thousands - where do you think we scavenge all these
> parts we use? From forklifts (CDC 160A) to freight engines
>(Univac 90/60, IBM System 360)... just not automobiles (C64?).
> The comparison between industries is ringing truer and truer in my
> ears as I digress.
> ~ Peanut Gallery ~
Well said Peanut!
In my own mind I also compare EVs to catamarans in the sailing world.
I bought my first cat in the late `70's, as a small sailing dinghy,
and had no idea at the time what I was getting into...
As sailing craft, the western multihull (as distinct from the
Polynesian craft that populated the Pacific Islands thousands of years
ago) offers numerous advantages, yet has been the subject of prejudice
and ridicule since early development... perhaps all the way back to
1876:
http://www.runningtideyachts.com/multihull/Amaryllis.html
Thanks
Lock
Toronto
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a 48 volt car that shifts into any gear but first and reverse when
moving at any speed.
The car has regen and being able to downshift into first would allow regen
to work to a much slower speed.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Shabino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: clutch or clutchless
> The joe sixpack car thread reminded me about a Doug Smiths fiero at
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/143. He is using a clutchless design in
his
> car. Unfortunaly it does not go on to state if he actualy shifts when
> rolling or if its a one gear wonder once it gets going.
>
> Has anyone else tried a no clutch desing with rolling shifts??
>
> In theory this has a chance of working. Step off the gas then shift...
But,
> The extra spinning mass of the electric motor might do "bad things(tm)" to
> the syncros.
>
> thoughts?
>
> Later,
> Wire
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well said Madman.
All *I* really need is two wheels and no doors or seat. A vehicle that
travels at 20kmh, folds up into a shoulder bag and flies as luggage.
Tks
Lock
Toronto
--- Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I just don't need seating for 5.. and 4 doors. I need room for me and
> about a Dozzen Green boxes on the Bi monthly Sheet metal run
> to Portland Ore.
> Madman
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Bob,
Five years is nothing. The last set of Exide's X-235's lasted me from 1990
to 2000. I had two exchanges from 1975 to 1990, because I was going to work
everyday which was a long 2 mile hill climb everyday at 60 mph which was
about 5 miles a day.
>From 1990 on, my daily average range is 2 miles at 15 to 20 mph and one
weekly drive at 5 miles at 30 mph.
For best life of a battery, it was subjected that the average battery ampere
should be no more than 20 percent of the rated ampere-hour of the battery.
This is about 52 battery amperes for a 260 amp-hour battery.
Charging should be also kept at no more than 20 percent of the rated AH. I
normally charge at 35 amps to 7.4 volts per 6 volt battery at 80 degrees
battery temperature which the Trojan company recommended.
My battery temperature at no load after setting 24 hours is at 65 degrees F.
When driving about 4 short 1/2 miles runs a day all winter, which is about 9
months of the year, the battery temperature will be in the 70's. In the
spring which is the other 3 months of the year, the battery temperature will
be in the 80's only if I drive about 5 miles.
It is also best not to drop below 50% state-of-charge (SOC), but it is
better to stay above 75% for a longer life. Sometimes its takes me a week
to get down below 80% when the batteries temperature is at 80 degrees F.
If the battery temperature is between 65 to 70 degrees, I do not try to
charge the batteries to 100%, I never get there at this lower temperature.
I do not have to squeeze every bit of ampere out of the battery, because of
my driving needs.
My batteries are rated at 145 minutes at 75 amperes. The actual battery
capacity decreases as discharge current increases. Therefore:
145 minutes / 60 = 2.41 hours
2.41 hours x 75 amps = 181.25 AH
So, therefore my 260 AH batteries are actual 181 AH at 75 amp draw.
At 50 battery amps, my estimated reserved is 288 minutes or
288 minutes / 60 = 4.8 hours
4.8 hours x 50 = 240 AH
If I use a 100 AH battery at 50 minutes reserved at 75 amps, then:
50 minutes / 60 = 0.833 hours
0.833 hours x 75 = 62.5 AH
The life of this battery would be less than 2 years or even 1 year if you
have to charge the battery twice a day.
Another battery reducer of life, is to add water to the batteries anytime
you see them low. At discharge and if electrolyte level is below the grids,
just add enough water to get 1/8 inch above the grids. Then charge them to
about 95% and finish adding the water to the bottom of the fill neck.
Finish charge the batteries, as it will mix the water and acid.
If you take a specific gravity reading after a battery is setting a long
time, the acid being heavy than water will settle to the bottom of the cell,
and your test sample will normally will read weak and you may think you need
to charge the battery.
It also is best to used 1.00:1 overall gear ratio per 400 lbs of EV weight.
For a 4000 lb EV, then 4000 lbs / 400 = 10.0:1. This means that many of the
EV's will be in 2nd gear which my is 2.5:1 in 2nd gear x 5.57:1 axle =
13.925:1 overall ratio which is good to 45 mph at 6000 rpm during
acceleration and than can go into final gear of 5.57:1 at any steady speed.
My total battery weight is about 2280 lbs, which is exactly 1/3 the weight
of the EV. The more lead, the more range, and longer life.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "B Eskridge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: New Flooded Cells
> Whoa, Roland!
>
> Your batteries are lasting 5 years?!
>
> I am new to this list and considering a EV conversion. I need a range
> of 35 miles at low highway speeds (50mph.)
>
> What are you using your batteries in? How are you driving you EV?
>
> Thanks, Bob
>
>
> Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Joe,
>
> When ordering a set of batteries from the manufacture, it is best to
> specified that you want a balance set, by voltage, specific gravity, load
> testing and same day manufacture.
>
> Some battery manufacture's will only match the voltage for you as they
> come
> off the assembly line. I specified the voltage to be not more than 0.01
> volts plus or minus of each other.
>
> Before I accept the batteries, I verified the no-load voltage, specific
> gravity, acid level, test the voltage drop at 75 amps, and check the
> manufacture date, listing the results in a battery chart noting the date
> install.
>
> The last battery set of 30 T-145'S, 28 of them were at 6.33 volts and two
> were at 6.34 volts. This is close enough to install as a string.
>
> Group charge the pack, to the maximum voltage as per ambient temperature
> recommendations and recheck the battery voltage again. If it is still
> within 0.01 volts, no adjustment is required.
>
> If any one battery is more than 5% out of balance, which would be about
> 0.02
> volts, than charge that one battery separately after you full charge the
> pack. Using a smart charger with a digital voltage meter, it may only take
> less than a minute to bring the low one in balance.
>
> If you have one battery at a higher voltage than the rest, than apply a
> load
> test to that one, to drop it below the others, and than charge it to match
> the others in the pack.
>
> If you do all of the above, you should get a long life. I am now going on
> 5
> years and going to try to brake my old record of 10 years +.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just
> 2ยข/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks,
I am trying to get going on a project I started in 2000 and never got
back to. I have directions I brought from KTA services about 10
years ago to built for a simple expanded scale voltmeter. It is
based on a 1 mA meter measuring the whole pack voltage and includes
details to scale it properly for pack voltages from 36 to 120
Volts. What I want to do is put together 13 of these meters, each
setup for 12 Volts, one for each battery in my EV. The meters I
bought are 1.2 mA edge reading meters. I figured 13 of them in a
gang would make a reasonably handy way to track individual battery
status, kind of a mechanical bar graph. Rather than permanently
mount the setup in my Civic I figured on making the wiring permanent
and them just plugging in the meter assembly when needed.
Lee Hart has mentioned using resistors at the battery connection
points in various battery monitoring schemes as a way to reduce the
hazards of high voltage leads in the cockpit. Can this method be
applied here? Assuming I want a bottom of scale reading of about 9.5
Volts and a top of scale reading of about 15 Volts, how do I work out
the details of what components to use for the circuit? If possible I
would prefer to use as few connections to the pack as possible, say a
total of 14 for my thirteen 12 Volt batteries. Can one connection be
shared between two meters safely?
A meter, a zener, a trim-pot, and a couple of resistors. It
shouldn't be that hard, but I am not sure what I need. I know, this
is probably very very basic circuit theory, but I have no background
or experience in it. :^(
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: New Flooded Cells
> Hello Bob,
>
> Five years is nothing. The last set of Exide's X-235's lasted me from
1990
> to 2000. I had two exchanges from 1975 to 1990, because I was going to
work
> everyday which was a long 2 mile hill climb everyday at 60 mph which was
> about 5 miles a day.
>
Hi EVerybody;
Five YEARS! Gees! I wish. In reading Roland's post, what a difference
battery care can make. I beat the shit out of my pack, other than
Brakestands<g>! I used to get and demand 400 amp freeway launches, chunk it
up in 4th or 5 th to come onto the hiway at a respectable 60-65 mph to
merge. If people see that you are TRYING they let you in. Dawdle down the
ramp as, say, 35MPH looking for a gap the size of Rhode Island, NOBODY will
let ya on, you'll SIT there until you can get another " Appointment" So I
expect the hundreds of amps @ 120 volts, to do this, and I get it, but I'm
looking at new batteries EVery two years or 20k miles. This is just reality.
Sigh! Maybe a pack of BB 600's to do the hy amp stuff. This is running
through my mind a few conversions down the road. The Nissan Sentra I'm doing
now isn't gunna be much of a performer, as I don't think I can stuff 120
volts worth of T WhatEVers I come up with. I don't want another Led Sled,
rather have something a bit lighter on it's feet(wheels). Sorta waiting to
hear about the BB's, How they will do in a car?Somebody, Dave Cover,
stepping up to the plate here? Drive yur rig down to Killingworth for the
Annual EV Cookout? Plenty of juicy outlets to charge with! Now in my leasure
times, Ha Ha, being retired I don't hafta do the 56 mi RT commute that I
built Rabbit for, 150-200 amps on the turnpike for 20-25 minutes. That
knocks the shit out of batteries? Often wondered if something like the Blue
Meany, light and agle coulda handled my daily run to the train. Probably...?
IF I KNEW for sure I coulda plugged in at the RR. But if I couldn't I still
could get home with a fully run-down pack. Now Roland could do just fine
with the Zombie or Meanie, thousands of Lbs less weight than the EFP
dinosour he has. Bob Aronson's , and mine, idea of a long range EV was to
pile in the lead, and 7k lb cars were common, think 4200 Lb Renault R -10's
In that the Mars 2 didn't just collapse under over a TON of batteries,
Tri-Polar Lead Cobalt, Yada Yada Yada Energy cells. My hat's off to the Good
Folks at Renault that designed the structure of the car!The R-10 was a nice
little car, Surprised it didn't catch on here. Maybe in Europe? It sure was
roomier than the VW Beetles.AND it had a real heater! Load the Mars2 as Bob
called the Renault and you could push 5 kLbs, I was only 250lbs in those
daze<g>!But it wafted down the hiway at 110 amps at 50-55MPH or 70 IF you
stepped on it HARD to activate the field weakening feature, of course your
amps went to 150- 200 so ya PAID for the speed!This was with 120 volts worth
of battery.
Other topics; The good old DC AC argument goes on. Hell! It wouldn't be
the List without it. Victor points out a lotta cool stuff with the AC, But I
don't think he said much about the REGEN feature EVery AC setup comes with.
For a Joe Sixpack, soccer Mom car , You CAN'T beat AC. She just turns the
key, throws it in "GO" drive ,aims it, and goes! Amps Smamps Who cares! It
just gets her there an' back, regenning as needed to slow down, Hmmmm? Sorta
like the Rav 4's I have driven.My Mom and Grandma coulda driven a Rav-4
WITHOUT a tuitorial on how to drive an EV! The DC hasn't "Kept up" tech
wise, with the AC stuff. The only way DC haz a fighting chance is a Sep Ex
system. Nobody is doing it, sad to say. Lock Otmar and Jerry Warfield in a
design room, cater the booze and eats. Let then dream an' design and you
could have a "package" setup a big box with the controller and Motor
designed for each other. Like the song sez" You can't have one with out the
other"But these before mentioned guyz are up to their eyeballs in stuff
already!AC Propulsion has DONE that with their AC stuff. It is very
heartwarming to see the Package they put together, Motor, Controller,
Charger all in ONE Box, well ALMOST<g>!MOTOR excepted.The "Three In One"
setup Bob Aronson was working with Wally Rippel, and Cornel University
thousands of years ago in EV years.Now,IF our suppliers COULD sell ya the
Sep EX motor and controller, charger. Why let your sillycon loaf when the
car is charging?The beefy solid state controller could be pumping power back
into the battery, say, with a 200 amp at 240 volt electrical servive. I HAVE
that in my house now, jut hurts at 16 sence a KWH, thanks Emron and
Deregulation! If I had Sadamn's money I would have hired you electrical Whiz
guyz to build me a production Sep EX to keep DC in the running for modern
EV's. Of course brush timing is always an ISSUE. again as Victor sez;
elininate the comm and brushes. I like that, as duz the major RR's going to
AC traction motors in the newer Diseasel lokies. Not to mention you can run
your AC drive Diseasel under water, which is often a RR operasting
condition, oh, not intentionally<g> Just happens, like in the Big Easy!With
a DC Diseasel, you are looking for the tow truk, or tugboat, if you get in
more than a few inches over the rail. Low voltage DC cars go fine under
water! Had water up to the floor boards in the Rabbit and I KNEW the motor
was underwater. It didn't care! Cools it off nice!
Maybe I'm being too much of a traditionalist sticking with DC, It works
for me and is the cheapest way to get started with EV's A sep Ex probably
wouldn't cost much more than a standard Series DC setup? Come in cheaper
than an AC system? If it didn't, the hell with it, go buy the AC from
Victor, and be done with it.Cost comes to bear here, as we are cheep guyz
here, most of us HAVE to, as we don't have connections at the US Mint.
My two cells worth;
Seeya at "DC"
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Rice wrote:
> Five YEARS! Gees! I wish. In reading Roland's post, what a
> difference battery care can make.
Don't beat yourself up, Bob, you must have been doing something right!
At 5mi/day, 365 days/year, Roland's 15 years from his pack is only a bit
over 27k miles vs your 20k mi. Looks like the real difference here is
depth of discharge; those deep cycles of yours take their toll.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike & Paula Willmon wrote:
Has anyone built one of these in genious meters by Mark
Brueggemann? Looks rather interesting to me and may try my hand at
it (after I get my truck on the road).
http://www.qsl.net/k5lxp/ev/evgauge/evgauge.html
Mike did you built Marks' meter? If you did give us a report.
Thanks,
Calvin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I got it...
Lee wrote later -"It's just a backup system. Someday the bulb may burn out or
get broken.The resistor means you don't lose *all* regulation."
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: Lee's regs in action
Chris,
You added some film resistors on to the balancers. What was your reason for
doing so?
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
Chris wrote -
>> Where did you buy the 5 watt zinors ?
>>
>
> Mouser. Here is a list of the parts I bought:
> 660-MF1/2DLT52R10R0F MF1/2DLT52R10R0F KOA Speer 1/2Watt Metal
> Film Resistors
> 10ohms 1% 100PPM 60 $0.090 $5.40 60 Shipped
> 4/24/2006
> 27718023
>
> Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chip Gribben wrote:
Hey Tim!
Thanks for considering coming out. I'd really like to see that jr.
dragster run.
Maybe someone that has read your message may want to come to the event
to get the batteries. The track may be a good halfway point for
someone and they could enjoy the race as well.
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Power of DC (Northeaster) Racing Coordinatior
http://www.powerofdc.com
http://www.nedra.com
http://www.evadc.org
Any chance the website will be updated for 2006? What time does it all
start?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Good observation. On page 16, it reads " the inverter creates 3-phase AC to
power the motors in the engine compartment. Sets of 3 power cables are
routed from the inverter to each high voltage motor (electric motor,
electric generator, and A/C compressor)". That tends to indicate that the
A/C motor is a 3-phase AC motor.
Reading through the Denso web site (company that makes the Prius
compressor), it says it's a brushless DC motor. Guess that's why I thought
it ran on 201 V DC.
Shucks, back to a standard auto compressor running off a pulley on the tail
shaft. This won't be too hard to implement, just gotta figure out how to
mount it and tension the belt...
Regards, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 12:22 AM
Subject: Re: Prius air-conditioning
> I reviewed the doc and noticed that the A/C motor is
> indicated as AC-motor, so it does NOT run straight off
> the DC pack, unless it has a DC/AC converter built-in!
>
> Cor (in Bay St Louis, MS)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Death to All
> Spammers [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: Prius air-conditioning
> Sent: 5/28/2006 9:32 PM
> Importance: Normal
>
> > I'm sorry I don't have the URL, but if you google on Prius Air
> Conditioning
> > you should be able to find it like I did. I read it in the last
> couple of
> > weeks, and it did have www.toyota in the URL, so I trusted the
> information.
> >
>
> http://techinfo.toyota.com/public/main/2ndprius.pdf
>
> Cool stuff!
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, I haven't yet. But now that the truck is on the road I'm focusing on
the details. First is cooling to the Zilla, then the shunts for the meters.
I do still plan to build one.
I'm also still trying to find the rather neat graphical meter display for
the Palm that someone wrote to read the DAQ output data from the Zilla.
I'll sure report on things once I get somewhere.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Calvin King
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 8:19 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: the Mark Brueggemann Meter
Mike & Paula Willmon wrote:
Has anyone built one of these in genious meters by Mark
Brueggemann? Looks rather interesting to me and may try my hand at
it (after I get my truck on the road).
http://www.qsl.net/k5lxp/ev/evgauge/evgauge.html
Mike did you built Marks' meter? If you did give us a report.
Thanks,
Calvin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mike,
> Somewhere I came across someone who wrote code to graphically
> display, on a Palm III, the hex outputs from a Zilla Hairball2
> interface in DAQ mode.
not for the Zilla, but perhaps this is what you were remembering.
http://www.ohler.com/palm/EVDash.html
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The 2006 Ride Electric Vehicles! (REV!) show hosted by the Vancouver
Electric Vehicle Association is rapidly approaching!
Normally we try to get an event notice out further in advance than this,
but with one thing and another we're a bit late this year...
The site we've been using for the past several years is no longer
available, so this year's event is being held in a large beach-side
parking lot near the University of British Columbia (UBC):
West Spanish Banks Parking Lot, 4900 NW Marine Drive, Vancouver, BC
The show is scheduled for Saturday, June 10, 10am-4pm. Details are
available on te VEVA website: <http://www.veva.bc.ca/>.
Anyone with an EV they can bring is most welcome; please contact VEVA
([EMAIL PROTECTED]) to make arrangements or get questions answered.
Anyone without an EV is also welcome to come and check out the vehicles;
we usually have a wide selection, everything from scooters and e-bikes
of all sorts to electric tractors to NEVs, on-road EVs, and when we're
lucky, one or more tire shredding, drag-racing EVs courtesy of our
friends south of the border.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Whoa, Roland!
>
> Your batteries are lasting 5 years?!
>
> I am new to this list and considering a EV conversion. I need a
range of 35 miles at low highway speeds (50mph.)
>
> What are you using your batteries in? How are you driving you EV?
>
> Thanks, Bob
It's the miles, not the years - most people are citing an average
20-25K miles per pack of floodies, less with deep discharges and high
amps, but it *does* work out to 10 years if you only do 2500mi a year!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does Otmar get any credit for these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4644859936
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--- Begin Message ---
Ok, so after weeks I finally got the BB600 battery pack installed and
connected in the S10. Now I have an isolation question:
I checked voltage from the pack to the frame and I see 200+ volts. When
I switch to amp view and check again it looks like I have a .6 ma ground
fault. This is through two layers of plastic and POR15 paint in the bed.
It's enough to feel, which to me is bad. I was wondering if it would be
an idea to tie the pack to the frame with some high value resistors to
bleed off this 1ma leak. That way there will be a better path than say
me if I am ever working on the pack and forget to switch it off.
Currently the pack is structured as follows: There are two sides, each
side contains 152 volts of batteries. I have a 3 phase disconnect switch
between the packs wired such that when I throw the switch each pack is
split in half, and the pack itself is split in two. Thus there is no
more than 75 volts potential. Is this safe?
Chris
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--- Begin Message ---
I think my sevcon converter has died. It was installed back in 1997. What
I need to know, is it worth it to have it repaired or should I just buy a
new one?? I have a 1986 Dodge ram truck with 144 volts. Oh Also got my
1976 VW bug running this week YEp E! 96 volts.
John with TEVA2
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--- Begin Message ---
Which controller are you using ?
Do alltrax controllers allow regen ?
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have a 48 volt car that shifts into any gear but first and
reverse when
> moving at any speed.
>
> The car has regen and being able to downshift into first would
allow regen
> to work to a much slower speed.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone taken a look at Peltier thermoelectric devices recently? They are
getting cheep on surplus lately (due to all the colman coolers that use
them).
Once I get a little farther down the road I am going to play around with
them on the car. I already have a stack of them (liquid air is fun.... :)
but the bigger question is what will their efficency is like Vs a
commpressor system. 80W of cooling takes about 100W of electricty just not
sure how much cooling a compressor pumps out Vs its input power.
The Fiero is going to have a weight problem as it is so every pound I shave
off helps.
Later,
Peter
From: "Jim Seibert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Prius air-conditioning
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 17:18:00 -0500
Good observation. On page 16, it reads " the inverter creates 3-phase AC to
power the motors in the engine compartment. Sets of 3 power cables are
routed from the inverter to each high voltage motor (electric motor,
electric generator, and A/C compressor)". That tends to indicate that the
A/C motor is a 3-phase AC motor.
Reading through the Denso web site (company that makes the Prius
compressor), it says it's a brushless DC motor. Guess that's why I thought
it ran on 201 V DC.
Shucks, back to a standard auto compressor running off a pulley on the tail
shaft. This won't be too hard to implement, just gotta figure out how to
mount it and tension the belt...
Regards, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 12:22 AM
Subject: Re: Prius air-conditioning
> I reviewed the doc and noticed that the A/C motor is
> indicated as AC-motor, so it does NOT run straight off
> the DC pack, unless it has a DC/AC converter built-in!
>
> Cor (in Bay St Louis, MS)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Death to All
> Spammers [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: Prius air-conditioning
> Sent: 5/28/2006 9:32 PM
> Importance: Normal
>
> > I'm sorry I don't have the URL, but if you google on Prius Air
> Conditioning
> > you should be able to find it like I did. I read it in the last
> couple of
> > weeks, and it did have www.toyota in the URL, so I trusted the
> information.
> >
>
> http://techinfo.toyota.com/public/main/2ndprius.pdf
>
> Cool stuff!
>
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--- Begin Message ---
If you are getting a steady speed like that from 48V, then C-lyte has really
improved their motors. Or maybe it's the aerodynamics of your rig? I can run
mine for about 20 miles at 17-20MPH... or get it up to 25MPH, but not both.
(Well, if I push the batts, I can get 25MPG for about 15 minutes of that 20
miles.) I'm impressed.
I haven't checked, as I said, recently. I guess it was about 4 years ago
that I looked into the batts they'd allow locally. Basically, they'd allowed
the Optimas (2 * 12V) the last time I looked. They were *slightly* over the
weight, if I recall my friend's talk correctly. He'd said the slight weight
increase was allowed because some of the weight was case weight, if I
recall.
So, do you have any pix of your rig?
From: "Juergen Weichert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> There is a limit on battery weight, not on number of batteries. I plan
> on running 72V using an array or smaller 12V batteries.
>
> Last year we ran a 406~409 motor in 406 mode in a 20" wheel. Speeds were
> around 37km/h for most of the hour. It should have been higher (around
> 42km/h predicted for 48V) but we had a voltage sag of a couple of volts
> due to two weaker batteries in the array. The power meter showed around
> 700-750W consumption for most conditions. We came in around 37km total
> for the hour.
>
> This year I will be running the same vehicle (modified) using a 405
> motor at 72V.
>
> Batteries - age and condition will make a big difference. Aerodynamics
> are obviously important too and will be improved over the next few days.
>
> Juergen
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--- Begin Message ---
There is a 3/4 meg resistor connecting mid pack to ground. Is that
what you are seeing?
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Ok, so after weeks I finally got the BB600 battery pack installed and
> connected in the S10. Now I have an isolation question:
>
> I checked voltage from the pack to the frame and I see 200+ volts. When
> I switch to amp view and check again it looks like I have a .6 ma
ground
> fault. This is through two layers of plastic and POR15 paint in the bed.
>
> It's enough to feel, which to me is bad. I was wondering if it would be
> an idea to tie the pack to the frame with some high value resistors to
> bleed off this 1ma leak. That way there will be a better path than say
> me if I am ever working on the pack and forget to switch it off.
>
> Currently the pack is structured as follows: There are two sides, each
> side contains 152 volts of batteries. I have a 3 phase disconnect
switch
> between the packs wired such that when I throw the switch each pack is
> split in half, and the pack itself is split in two. Thus there is no
> more than 75 volts potential. Is this safe?
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You say the pack is connected, I assume that means it's connected to the
motor/controller? That's probably where the leakage is occuring.
Try disconnecting the batter pack from the controller and see if you still
have leakage.
My 120V pack has leakage problems when it gets dirty, it's enough to bite
if I touch a terminal while leaning against a rusty spot. It stings, but
is basically harmless.
Unless you have a really low resistance short from the pack to frame, I
don't think you'd even feel 75 volts.
> Ok, so after weeks I finally got the BB600 battery pack installed and
> connected in the S10. Now I have an isolation question:
>
> I checked voltage from the pack to the frame and I see 200+ volts. When
> I switch to amp view and check again it looks like I have a .6 ma ground
> fault. This is through two layers of plastic and POR15 paint in the bed.
>
> It's enough to feel, which to me is bad. I was wondering if it would be
> an idea to tie the pack to the frame with some high value resistors to
> bleed off this 1ma leak. That way there will be a better path than say
> me if I am ever working on the pack and forget to switch it off.
>
> Currently the pack is structured as follows: There are two sides, each
> side contains 152 volts of batteries. I have a 3 phase disconnect switch
> between the packs wired such that when I throw the switch each pack is
> split in half, and the pack itself is split in two. Thus there is no
> more than 75 volts potential. Is this safe?
>
> Chris
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Has anyone taken a look at Peltier thermoelectric devices recently?
They are
> getting cheep on surplus lately (due to all the colman coolers that use
> them).
>
> Once I get a little farther down the road I am going to play around
with
> them on the car. I already have a stack of them (liquid air is
fun.... :)
> but the bigger question is what will their efficency is like Vs a
> commpressor system. 80W of cooling takes about 100W of electricty
just not
> sure how much cooling a compressor pumps out Vs its input power.
>
I just read that the average car has 2-3 tons (24-36K btu) of cooling
capacity! An EV doesn't have the engine as a heat source, but unless
you have some way of directly chilling your body with a bunch of
Peltiers, it doesn't look like a good choice. A viable option might be
to adapt a split ductless heat pump to run off pack voltage and use
some of the original parts - no idea what would be involved.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I had posted:
Roderick's Maniac Mazda and Matt's Joule Injected are presently
sitting at 3826 and 3765 respectively in the one and two positions.
The third place guy with his powerful V8 Mustang is trailing at 3340,
and there's only 4 more voting days! It's time to reinvigorate our
collective voting machine here at the EVDL and pump up these EVs so
that an electric will take the May car of the month!
Oops...that should have read...an electric will take the 'June' car of
the month! OK, the tally for the cars only went up 35 votes for Rod's
car and only 31 votes for Matt's car, while the Mustang gained 24 votes,
so we're not voting in full strength. We should be able to pump up the
votes by an easy 100 votes per day. Come on, it's important to get
another EV in the limelight.
Please, take a moment and vote today. Only two more days left.
See Ya.....John Wayland
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