EV Digest 5566
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: E-Volks Wilderness EV at Utah Car Show
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Some more questions.
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: airbags
by Jimmy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) DO NOT OPEN "New Graphic Site" emails
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: E-Volks Wilderness EV at Utah Car Show
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Auto Engine Block Heater Systems, charging outlets.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Some more questions.
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: stainless steel & battery acid?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Battery V matching
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Smart chargers and shunt regs
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Auto Engine Block Heater Systems
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: FLA Charging Scheme
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: DO NOT OPEN "New Graphic Site" emails
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: FLA Charging Scheme
by Chet Fields <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: DO NOT OPEN "New Graphic Site" emails
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: E-Volks Wilderness EV at Utah Car Show
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: stainless steel & battery acid?
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Motor sizing.
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Looking for EVI ICS200B Avcon powerpacks
by "Charles Whalen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Central Battery clamper/regulator board
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Cheap small display device (was Re: LED Matrix (was etc.)
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Looking for EVI ICS200B Avcon powerpacks
by "Charles Whalen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Central Battery clamper/regulator board
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Motor sizing.
by "Peter Shabino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Central Battery clamper/regulator board
by "Peter Shabino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Interpoles/timing/regen, oh my!
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: E-Volks Wilderness EV at Utah Car Show
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28)
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Motor sizing.
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: Central Battery clamper/regulator board
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: PHEV - speed? (Prius, mechanically speaking 72mph ev mode)
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
> If I'm understanding it correctly, "turnkey" means all you need to
convert
> the VW or Metro yourself, less the rolling chassis, cables, batteries,
> battery boxes, misc gear, and labor. I also don't see that a charger is
> included. What you do get (http://www.e-volks.com/about.html3.html) is a
> (surplus/new) motor, clamps, and controller.
>
The Alltrax kits also list ammeter, shunt, voltmeter, adapter and
shaft coupler, contactor, 20' of 2/0 cable, fuse, charger, pot-box, 8
high-current lugs, and 16 bolt-on battery lugs.
Other than the coupler and adapter, the rest is found online. You'll
save shipping by buying better lugs and the heavy 2/0 cable from a
local welding supply, and they often have fancy crimpers available for
rent or loan.
Here's the charger source -
http://www.batteryservice.com/products_final.aspx?ModelNumber=SE-1072
Surplus Center has a couple hundred of what looks like this motor -
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006061223012534&item=6-936&catname=
The Alltrax and pot-box can be found a lot of places, but here's one -
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/inv.htm
Most listees already know this stuff - e-volks is for those who don't.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I have a few more questions that I have not seen directly on the list.
If I am using an old forklift motor at its rated voltage with electric
reversing do I keep the brushes at neutral? The impression I have been
getting is that the brush advance is only needed if I am going to run the
motor at a voltage above its rated design and then electric reversing throws
a wrench in the works.
How far above the rated design voltage can you push a motor? And how do you
know what the current draw can safely be? Is it just decided by the motor
temperature? Is that why everyone seems to be using external cooling fans
on the larger conversions?
I am wanting to use a reversing contactor from an EV1 controller that was on
the forklift. The coils on the relay are labeled "Int. 24V Cont. 18V" which
I earlier asked about creating the 18 volt signal thinking that I needed to
pull them in with 24V and then hold them in at 18V. I am now planning on
re-connecting the power poles so that I will only energize the coils for
reverse and am wondering if the Int. 24V might mean intermittent which would
allow me to use a 24V signal just when I want to back up which I expect to
be only short durations like under a minute.
My project is up on the EVDL photo album site at
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751
and a much larger diary is at
http://www.indele.com/ANOTHER.htm
respectfully,
John
58 electric servi-car in progress
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a 95 Solectria E10 with the stock airbag. When is the airbag
system considered "old and unreliable" 10, 15, 20 years? and when it is
considered unreliable, do I have to replace all the parts ad-infinitum -
including the switch if I want to turn it off?
Jimmy
> From: Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [weights and] airbags
>
> Seth Rothenberg wrote:
>
> >>I would hesitate to transplant one into a car
> >>that didn't have one in the first place.
> >What about a conversion of a vehicle with airbags?
> Don't worry too much, several people here have done conversions of cars
> with airbag systems. Just identify which components are part of the
> airbag systems and leave them alone. Airbag wiring is usually in yellow
>
> loom and connectors. Most vehicles have one or two sensors in the
> grill/bumper area. Do not mount anything near them if possible, and
> avoid stiffening the vehicle in front of them. There is also often a
> sensor mounted on the firewall, inside or out (although sometimes this
> one is part of the airbag computer). Many systems rely on comparing the
>
> deacceleration of the front sensors to the firewall sensor, a
> significant difference (indicating the front of the vehicle is
> crumpling) triggers the system.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't usually do this, but I have seen a lot of these today
The subject line is: New Graphic Site. The "TO" line will usually have some
smutty Yahoo! Group name. It may or may not have an attachment. DO NOT OPEN the
attachment! It contains the [EMAIL PROTECTED] worm. The latest updates from
your AV will protect you, but don't open it. It will get into your email
address book and mail itself to everyone in there.
In case you are wondering, I wrote this, it isn't a foreward, and it IS real.
~~If you sometimes get the sudden urge to run around naked,
drink some Windex: It will keep you from streaking.~~
Dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A little more content has been added. My friend took some pictures
and I added them to the web page. You might need to hit "refresh" to
see them:
<http://9electric.evforge.net/evolks/>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bill an' EVerybody;
At the Earth Day Ho Hah a few months ago Dan Malloy, running on the Dem,
I think? Party. Stopped by the Rabbit, checked it out thought EV's were 'way
cool> I asked him if he gets Gov ship of Corrupticut IF he could get 120/240
volt plugins at the freeway rest stops. He thought it was a great idea when
I gave him the Chicken an' egg thing, like If you build it, they will come.
Loved that movie" Fieldof Dreams"I mentioned that a sorta cottage industry
COULD come to pass in CT building EV's I hit home with a lot of stuff. So I
sed that He had my vote. Now, let's see??
I had my half hour of fame on live Radio WPKN in Bridgeport, covered
alota stuff. The Best Govt. Oil Money can buy, I didn't say General Murders,
I was nice about it, but DID blast GM for killing the EV-1.And EVerybody
else involved. Had to cram a bit to get alota stuff on the air. Maybe I need
my own Pogram?I mean becides playing my Victrola record collection.
The whole plug thing boils down to " What's in it for ME?" the stores etc
SHOULD get a tax break or something for having the plug in's. At least to
start, Til that a plug is bringing in more bizs to the stores.Like a
restaurant. Perfect, stuff yur face and CAR at the same time. Like I did at
the Bob Even's Restaurant in Joliet.Those nice outside outlets were nice! I
suggested to the builders of our new elementery school to put in some EV
outlets. They thought it was a nice idea, but I don't think they will,
although it would be easy to do during construction.Sidelite, Bill an' I
drove my Rabbit from CT to Worcester MA, stopping at Wendys to eat and plug
in. English wasn't the language of choice there; more confusion asking about
charging. Hmmmm, sorta lioke So Cal.<g>!
My two outlets worth.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 5:39 PM
Subject: Auto Engine Block Heater Systems
> What do employers and shopping malls provide, in cold places like
> Canada, Alaska, North & Mid West Northern States, for an outlet to
> employees and customers that need to use their electric engine block
> heater to prevent block freeze up ?
> Do they charge their employees and customers for the electric used ?
> Why couldn't employees and shopping malls have those same systems
> down in the lower 48 states ?
> Is there a Federal Grant program for employers or shopping malls to
> install a electric vehicle charge port ? I think there was some
> kind of a federal program, grant or rebate about 10 or 15 years ago.
> We really need one at every interstate rest area, especially where
> there is a fast food resturant or gas station in addition to shopping
> malls and at every major employer if the all electric vehicle is
> going to have any chance at becoming appealing to the general public.
> Menlo Park III,
> Bill
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
> Unlimited Internet Access with 1GB of Email Storage.
> Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey John
If you're running a motor at it's original forklift voltage there is no
reason to advance the brushes. If you find that the motor lacks speed you
could choose to advance it a bit for some better top end speed. On a light
weight bike I believe you could get away with reversing it under a small
advanced positition without arcing.
As far as over-volting goes Father Time has run a 12 volt pallet jack motor
at 120 volts on his bike FrakenDragon, so depending on the motor and the size
of the conversion they can take a sizable increase. In fact these motors take
to the over-volting a lot better than they like being under-volted (which is
the cause of a lot of my business, lol)
Tempature of the motor and how fast it heats up will determine its new run
time rating.
I believe you could easily add an extra battery or two and still not have to
adjust the timing. This would allow you to have some battery sag and still
feed the motor the voltage it would be run at in a forklift.
As to the contactors I have no input so maybe others could chime in.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque electric
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi All,
I have a few more questions that I have not seen directly on the list.
If I am using an old forklift motor at its rated voltage with electric
reversing do I keep the brushes at neutral? The impression I have been
getting is that the brush advance is only needed if I am going to run the
motor at a voltage above its rated design and then electric reversing throws
a wrench in the works.
How far above the rated design voltage can you push a motor? And how do you
know what the current draw can safely be? Is it just decided by the motor
temperature? Is that why everyone seems to be using external cooling fans
on the larger conversions?
I am wanting to use a reversing contactor from an EV1 controller that was on
the forklift. The coils on the relay are labeled "Int. 24V Cont. 18V" which
I earlier asked about creating the 18 volt signal thinking that I needed to
pull them in with 24V and then hold them in at 18V. I am now planning on
re-connecting the power poles so that I will only energize the coils for
reverse and am wondering if the Int. 24V might mean intermittent which would
allow me to use a 24V signal just when I want to back up which I expect to
be only short durations like under a minute.
My project is up on the EVDL photo album site at
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751
and a much larger diary is at
http://www.indele.com/ANOTHER.htm
respectfully,
John
58 electric servi-car in progress
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Coate wrote:
> The acid in flooded lead acid batteries will eat way at regular steel.
> But how about stainless steel? Will it get destroyed too? Does it matter
> if 304 or 316 etc.?
304 is a low grade stainless; 316 is better.
However, "stainless" will still rust/corrode if there is leakage current
flowing between it and some other terminal.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rush wrote:
> Is there a v tolerance that batteries, specifically Trojan 6v's, should have
> from battery to battery? How closely should the batteries in a string match?
Pretty close! I see +/-0.05v max variation between 12v batteries with
regulators / balancers.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Fisher wrote:
> http://soneil.com/Completesets/2403SR(REV12).14-Jul-03.pdf
> I am wondering what the interaction would be if the batteries are also
> sporting shunt-type balancers.
This is a little 24v 3amp charger that only charges to 14.4v per 12v
battery. You don't need regs with this charger.
> Now, at 14.4V, the 13.6 volt zeners will be diverting .8V through the PR2
> lamp. Does this mean about .42A?
No; more like 50-100ma. The battery would have to drop to about 50-100ma
at 14.4v for the total to be 150ma, so the charger would drop to float.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" wrote:
> What do employers and shopping malls provide, in cold places like
> Canada, Alaska, North & Mid West Northern States, for an outlet to
> employees and customers that need to use their electric engine block
> heater to prevent block freeze up?
I've lived in Michigan, New York, and Minnesota, and such outlets are
common in the northern parts of the state. The outlets supplied are
always standard 120v 15a 3-wire, with a spring-loaded cover to keep the
weather out. There is never any charge for their use. At worst, your
apartment might charge $10 more a month for a parking place with an
outlet.
They are usually installed along the side of the building, but sometimes
on light poles in the parking lot. They are "on" all the time; no
switches or controls at the outlet. The circuit breaker and GFCI that
controls them is normally inside the building somewhere. There will be
from 4 to 12 outlets per breaker, so it's possible for too many people
to plug in at once. it's not uncommon to find one tripped or turned off
in the summer, so you have to ask the store owner to reset it.
> We really need one at every interstate rest area, especially where
> there is a fast food resturant or gas station in addition to shopping
> malls and at every major employer if the all electric vehicle is
> going to have any chance at becoming appealing to the general public.
The National Electric Code already requires outside AC outlets. But,
whether your local inspectors follow it is spotty.
When I drove from Minneapolis MN to Seattle WA, I checked at each rest
area, gas station, restaurant, motel etc. that we stopped at along I-94.
(I was thinking about driving my EV back). I found every single one had
outside outlets. The longest stretch where there didn't seem to be any
was about 70 miles in western North Dakota. So, it looked possible
(though tedious)!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chet Fields wrote:
> I have installed the Trojan TE35 flooded lead acid batteries in my
> Soleq EVCort which originally had Sonnenschein Gel Cells...
> What is a good end of charge voltage that can be held for 3 hours on
> a daily basis without abusing the batteries?
The floodeds will have to go to a much higher end-of-charge voltage than
the gel cells -- on the order of 2.5v to 2.58v/cell.
If you can't adjust it this high, you'll need to do a separate
equalization charge initially once every month or two, and gradually
increasing in frequency as the batteries age. Basically, you equalize
when the battery voltages after sitting overnight without
charging/driving differ by more than 0.03v per 6v battery. For 6v golf
cart size batteries, "equalize" means continuing to charge at 4-5 amps
for 1-2 hours, so the final voltage gets above 7.5v per 6v battery.
> I was also contemplating either the Rudman Regulators (stand alone, as my
> charger does not have a RegBus) or the Equalizers from
> www.SmartSparkEnergy.com.
Equalizers aren't really needed with flooded batteries, but they can
reduce water usage and the need for equalization.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for your concern. However, please do not post virus warnings and
other items of presumed general interest to this list. Even if authentic,
they are completely off topic. There are many other more appropriate forums
for computer support.
If everyone posted items he thought would be "of interest to all" they would
swamp the EV content. Please, no exceptions. Stay on topic.
Thanks.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Chet Fields wrote:
> > What is a good end of charge voltage that can be held for 3 hours on
> > a daily basis without abusing the batteries?
>
> The floodeds will have to go to a much higher end-of-charge voltage than
> the gel cells -- on the order of 2.5v to 2.58v/cell.
Would that be OK on a daily basis for the 3 hours? What about if the ambient
temperature is 90 degrees F or more?
Chet
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
tsk tsk ... Writing viruses! For Shame! =)
Dave wrote:
I don't usually do this, but I have seen a lot of these today
The subject line is: New Graphic Site. The "TO" line will usually have some
smutty Yahoo! Group name. It may or may not have an attachment. DO NOT OPEN the
attachment! It contains the [EMAIL PROTECTED] worm. The latest updates from your AV will
protect you, but don't open it. It will get into your email address book and mail itself
to everyone in there.
In case you are wondering, I wrote this, it isn't a foreward, and it IS real.
~~If you sometimes get the sudden urge to run around naked,
drink some Windex: It will keep you from streaking.~~
Dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As one who has been building EVs for a while I cringe when I see clamp-on
automotive style lead cable ends. These set ups use much more battery amps
to get what speed they can. I also think their motor efficiency claim of
75-80% is a little on the optimistic side. They even speak of heating the
cabin with the waste heat. When you read their reasoning for using a shunt
wound surplus aircraft starter/generator rather than a modern series wound
motor you will see that they try to talk down the series motor. I have no
problem with folks trying to get more EVs on the road and doing it
inexpensively, in fact I applaud that. I do have a problem with deceptive
advertising and substandard equipment and giving EVs a bad name. We have a
lot of negative stigma to overcome in the general population.
Roderick Wilde
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Dymaxion" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: E-Volks Wilderness EV at Utah Car Show
A little more content has been added. My friend took some pictures
and I added them to the web page. You might need to hit "refresh" to
see them:
<http://9electric.evforge.net/evolks/>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/361 - Release Date: 6/11/2006
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No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/362 - Release Date: 6/12/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
To answer the question, absolutely ... it is a matter of what the
concentration of acid (sulfuric or hydrochloric), the grade of and
texture of the steel, and how long of an exposure. If there is a way to
either glass line or coat the steel with plastic you may prevent the
acid from reducing the steel.
Lee Hart wrote:
Jim Coate wrote:
The acid in flooded lead acid batteries will eat way at regular steel.
But how about stainless steel? Will it get destroyed too? Does it matter
if 304 or 316 etc.?
304 is a low grade stainless; 316 is better.
However, "stainless" will still rust/corrode if there is leakage current
flowing between it and some other terminal.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am hoping to do so. I had originally planned to have a siamese like
John's made before I realized how specialized this was. I think now
that I will be doing more what Matt did with his Nissan.
I thought about one motor for each rear wheel. But once I remembered
that I'd have to put in some gearing and mocked it up I realised that
inline with a standard diff would be a lot easier and use little, if
any, more space.
Inline the motors go about 1/3 the way along the fuel tank tunnel. (
http://michael.ellis.googlepages.com/el-driverpage2 )
-Mike
On 6/10/06, Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Anyone done a dual motor fiero?
Can this be done? 2 motors in series will differential so building up
a dual stubby motor with seperate shafts and one to each wheel would
work , what about when they are in parallel, will they still allow
gracefull turning?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oops, sorry, got my own email address wrong!
It's "dot net", not "dot com".
The correct email address is: whalenc at bellsouth dot net.
Charles Whalen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Whalen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "RAV4-EV list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "EV Discussion List"
<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 1:57 PM
Subject: Looking for EVI ICS200B Avcon powerpacks
I'm looking to buy used EVI ICS200B Avcon powerpacks in good working order
together with wall mounts for them. If you have any of these that you'd be
willing to sell me or know where I might be able to get some, please contact
me off-list at: whalenc at bellsouth dot com.
Thanks,
Charles Whalen
Florida EAA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When a fellow EV driver told me about his single point wiring setup for
his truck, it got me thinking. If all of the battery terminals were
wired to a central location, then fed into a single circuit board,
making a reliable clamper/regulator system would be easier because the
clampers would not be hit with environmental problems associated with
being clamped to a battery. They would all be on just one circuit
board. He did find out that you have to wire the connector so that the
lowest and highest batterys are not right next to each other or they
arc between pins, as he showed us this past weekend.
Of course using Lee's advice, the wires would be run with a 1/4w or
even 1/8 watt resistors at each batt terminal for better fuseability.
They could be run to a db-25 or db-37 connector and then plugged into
a board that would have each battery's clamper circuit installed. I
think putting Zregs all on one board with a connector at one end is
vastly easier to maintain, modify and work on. No more potting if you
build the Zreg. No multiple board costs if you build a
clamper/regulator. I have 50 clampers on my lead acid pack. It's takes
only a bit of maintenance, but it's a total pain to unload the pack to
fix one buried clamper. I suppose that any battery could also be
charged individually with this layout.
Thoughts?
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I should be more specific: does anyone have any other suggestions for a
> cross-needle automotive gauge that would be suitable for this
> application? Preferably something less expensive than a Link-10 and
> with more usable space than the Westach meter.
>
>> and a micro if I wanted the ability to
>> transform the graphical display into something simpler for the
>> non-technical user to interpret.
>
> Like a Link-10? :)
I've been playing around with something recently that might work, it will
take a little programing however.
How does a combined micro processor and color display that costs less than
$80 brand new and a darn sight less at garage sales sound?
The GameBoy Advanced (GBA) has a fairly active programming comunity with a
ton of free developement software/enviroments available.
Circuit Cellar had a contest for creative uses for a PSoC a couple years
ago and someone interfaced one to a GBA (Google it).
The PSoC has several built in A/D converters so it could measure the
current and voltage and then send the info to the GBA for display. You
can buy development packages for the PSoC for under $50 with software and
programmer and IIRC a couple PSoCs.
All of the GBA SP come with a backlit display and the newer ones come with
an even brighter display. It's power draw is rediculously low, the tiny
rechargeable LIon battery lasts for either 10 or 20 hours, I can't
remember, but then I've never ran it down far enough to tell.
It has enough memory you could even store historical data and download it
later.
FWIW I have also seen a GBA interfaced to a GPS with graphical location
display. The app wasn't that useful, but you could use the GPS data
combined with power requirements for other calculations, if you were so
inclined.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm looking to buy used EVI ICS200B Avcon powerpacks in good working order
together with wall mounts for them. If you have any of these that you'd be
willing to sell me or know where I might be able to get some, please contact
me off-list at: whalenc at bellsouth dot com.
Thanks,
Charles Whalen
Florida EAA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
> When a fellow EV driver told me about his single point wiring
> setup for his truck, it got me thinking.
I am also a fan of the centralised mounting of regs/clampers, for the
reasons you mention.
The advantage of locating discrete regs at the batteries is that of
modularity/scalability. If you have a single PCB that serves N
batteries, it is inevitable that N will be the wrong number for almost
every other EVer. Either I will have to pay for a PCB/system that is
capable of far more batteries than I need, or I will need to buy some
multiple of these PCBs to cover my pack, in the worst case having some
number of fully utilised PCBs and one with just one battery connected to
it.
If you wanted to make a centralised system, I would suggest that a way
to go might be a motherboard/daughterboard system so that the
regs/clampers are still one battery per PCB, but each has an edge
connector (or similar) allowing it to plug into a motherboard slot.
Make the motherboards as inexpensive as possible and either available in
different sizes or some reasonable intermediate size (8 slots? 10 slots?
16 slots) with the ability to daisy chain multiple motherboards for
large systems (if there is actually any need for connections between
reg/clampers such as REGBUS).
The downside of this is that of the reliability issues associated with
any sort of connector.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So are you building a entire new subframe for the Fiero? Looking at your
models and looking at my frame there is a lot of stuff in the way that would
be "bad" to remove (frame members).
I have mine almost fully stripped down to the frame ready to be sent out to
the sandblasters (need to be actualy home for a weekend and not on the road
for work and I will have it done). So I am getting close to the point I can
start actualy buying the EV parts and mounting them.
Thanks,
Wire
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Motor sizing.
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 11:23:07 -0500
I am hoping to do so. I had originally planned to have a siamese like
John's made before I realized how specialized this was. I think now
that I will be doing more what Matt did with his Nissan.
I thought about one motor for each rear wheel. But once I remembered
that I'd have to put in some gearing and mocked it up I realised that
inline with a standard diff would be a lot easier and use little, if
any, more space.
Inline the motors go about 1/3 the way along the fuel tank tunnel. (
http://michael.ellis.googlepages.com/el-driverpage2 )
-Mike
On 6/10/06, Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Anyone done a dual motor fiero?
Can this be done? 2 motors in series will differential so building up
a dual stubby motor with seperate shafts and one to each wheel would
work , what about when they are in parallel, will they still allow
gracefull turning?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another way would be stay with one per battery then run a fiber back to a
main controller. Basic fiber connectors and cables are getting really cheep
(more of a light pipe VS a fiber). This way you can make a large receiver
card (or chain multiples) and not have to worry about HV near your low
voltage control circuits.
Later,
Wire
From: "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: RE: Central Battery clamper/regulator board
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 11:44:48 -0700
Mike Phillips wrote:
> When a fellow EV driver told me about his single point wiring
> setup for his truck, it got me thinking.
I am also a fan of the centralised mounting of regs/clampers, for the
reasons you mention.
The advantage of locating discrete regs at the batteries is that of
modularity/scalability. If you have a single PCB that serves N
batteries, it is inevitable that N will be the wrong number for almost
every other EVer. Either I will have to pay for a PCB/system that is
capable of far more batteries than I need, or I will need to buy some
multiple of these PCBs to cover my pack, in the worst case having some
number of fully utilised PCBs and one with just one battery connected to
it.
If you wanted to make a centralised system, I would suggest that a way
to go might be a motherboard/daughterboard system so that the
regs/clampers are still one battery per PCB, but each has an edge
connector (or similar) allowing it to plug into a motherboard slot.
Make the motherboards as inexpensive as possible and either available in
different sizes or some reasonable intermediate size (8 slots? 10 slots?
16 slots) with the ability to daisy chain multiple motherboards for
large systems (if there is actually any need for connections between
reg/clampers such as REGBUS).
The downside of this is that of the reliability issues associated with
any sort of connector.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I checked my 7" SepEx motor and it does *not* have interpoles. It's a Schaef
Hyster pump 36V motor I'm running at 72V in my Cushman runs up to 170F after an
hour of driving home. I'm driving 300 miles per week or 60 miles per day x 5.
I'm presently running with a series field ring however since matched
SepEx/regen controls are pricey and not guaranteed to work with my motor.
With regards to timing and improvimg efficiency, Doug Weathers said that
nuetral timing is the best for efficiency. I'm near the end of my range, 27
miles to work (30 mile range) with 72V worth of US-145's in a 2100lb Cushman
(covered with solar panels, only 75W, 2 miles per day).
My top rpm's are 5000 @ 45mph but at cruising mostly 4000 rpm's (35mph). I
also need oomph to start off in a direct drive vehicle. So would I stoill
loose efficiency by advancing 7 degrees or what would be a good SepEx control
that would boost the voltage enough on a 36V motor to charge a 72V battery?
Thanks,
Mark
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> A little more content has been added. My friend took some pictures
> and I added them to the web page. You might need to hit "refresh" to
> see them:
>
> <http://9electric.evforge.net/evolks/>
>
What's with the rheostat when Alltrax has a SepEx controller available?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter Shabino wrote:
> Another way would be stay with one per battery then run a
> fiber back to a main controller.
> This way you can make a large receiver card (or chain
> multiples) and not have to worry about HV near your low
> voltage control circuits.
There are certainly many ways to skin a cat ;^>
I'm not sure I appreciate the benefit of this approach as it still
results in the individual regs/clampers being located at the batteries,
and so they would need to each be protected from the environment, and
there would still be all the issues associated with getting rid of the
heat they produce, etc.
In this case, the fiber interconnecting them to a central controller
would really just be performing the function of the (already isolated)
REGBUS on Rudman Regs (for instance). Are there fiber
cables/transmitters/receivers available now that are cost competitive
with an opto or two at each end and a CAT5 patchcord, especially
considering that the fiber network would presumably require a run of
fiber from each battery to the main controller (star topology) while the
REGBUS approach daisy chains the regs together?
I'm not a big fan of the RJ connectors Rich uses for the REGBUS
connections on his regs, but other than that one nit I think the daisy
chain connection scheme is a pretty good approach.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/13/06, Peter Shabino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So are you building a entire new subframe for the Fiero?
Yes, that's the plan anyway.
Looking at your
models and looking at my frame there is a lot of stuff in the way that would
be "bad" to remove (frame members).
Yes, All that will be left of the actual fiero frame what's shown in
that link (the cabin, and the areas that the body mounts to). This is
probably overly ambitious for my experience level, but what the hell.
-Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Reposting with the subject line restored... Don't know where it went the
last time.
Sorry for any confusion,
Roger.
I wrote:
> Peter Shabino wrote:
>
> > Another way would be stay with one per battery then run a
> > fiber back to a main controller.
>
> > This way you can make a large receiver card (or chain
> > multiples) and not have to worry about HV near your low
> > voltage control circuits.
>
> There are certainly many ways to skin a cat ;^>
>
> I'm not sure I appreciate the benefit of this approach as it still
> results in the individual regs/clampers being located at the
> batteries,
> and so they would need to each be protected from the environment, and
> there would still be all the issues associated with getting rid of the
> heat they produce, etc.
>
> In this case, the fiber interconnecting them to a central controller
> would really just be performing the function of the (already isolated)
> REGBUS on Rudman Regs (for instance). Are there fiber
> cables/transmitters/receivers available now that are cost competitive
> with an opto or two at each end and a CAT5 patchcord, especially
> considering that the fiber network would presumably require a run of
> fiber from each battery to the main controller (star
> topology) while the
> REGBUS approach daisy chains the regs together?
>
> I'm not a big fan of the RJ connectors Rich uses for the REGBUS
> connections on his regs, but other than that one nit I think the daisy
> chain connection scheme is a pretty good approach.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chet Fields wrote:
> --- Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>I am reading a lot about PHEVs, but everything I have read says the top speed
>>in all electric mode is 34 MPH.
>
> This is particularly for the Prius' EV Mode, NOT electric only mode. The Prius
> is capable of electric only mode at higher speeds up to about 42mph where it
> needs to start the ICE spinning as, because of the planetary gearing, the
> second motor generator would be spinning over 10,000 RPM. However, it can
> still
> stay in electric only, (NO spark or fuel) even higher (the term warp-stealth
> has been coined to describe it), as long as the current draw does not exceed a
> level determined by the state of charge of the battery. Granted this does not
> take too long as the battery capacity is severely limited (at least in EV
> terms).
One minor correction, at 42 MPH the second motor is only at about 5000
RPM, which used to be near it's old limit, in the classic 00-03 Prius.
The 10,000 RPM limit appears in the Gen2 04+ Prius and would technically
allow for something like 72 MPH ev-only, however just because it can do
10K doesn't mean that Toyota wants to let it run there all day, so the
software still limits it to the same RPM and 42 MPH as the classic. I'm
not sure if there are any new circumstances in which the new higher RPM
limit is used? And as was pointed out there is high speed Warp-Stealth
mode which turns over but does not burn fuel in the ICE above 42mph.
Perhaps they merely increased the limit in hopes of it surviving a 60mph
flat tow, which is still not recommended, front must be up to toe!
>> Is anyone working on a way to increase the max speed in all electric mode?
Toyota might be working on it, probably the only ones who can?
Obviously the Prius does not make for the best PHEV platform, nor does
the Insight, but that's not stopping us from trying, after all we could
actually "BUY" those cars so they can't have them back in a few years.
The EV1, RAV4-EV, EPIC, Think, EV+, E-10, or RangerEV would make for
much better PHEV platforms, just add 10-20kW of range extending genset
and poof, a "Real" Plug-In Hybrid Electric Vehicle! Ultimately we're
looking for something similar the the tZero & it's gas trailer.
L8r
Ryan
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