EV Digest 5579

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) RE: S10 Conversion
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Anyone else seen this one?
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Anyone else seen this one?
        by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Basic Manual Charger Schematic
        by "EVRIDER" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) 200sx conversion website finally updated!
        by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Lyons (Colorado) Good Old Days parade this Saturday
        by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: S10 Conversion
        by MIKE & PAULA WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Steven from Toronto / new listee
        by "Steven Potter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: S10 Conversion
        by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: Basic Manual Charger Schematic
        by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: S10 Conversion
        by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) EV Conversion Business
        by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Daytime lights requirement?
        by "Steven Potter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Regen Off the Bat
        by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: Stybrook Bulk Purchase
        by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Daytime lights requirement?
        by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Anyone else seen this one?
        by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: Regen Off the Bat
        by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Fw: [mucal] MUST WATCH!!!! AWESOME AD!!!!
        by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Daytime lights requirement?
        by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Powerglide 2-speed Transmission
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 22) Re: "Who Killed...." Credibility
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: S10 Conversion
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: Powerglide 2-speed Transmission
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: Daytime lights requirement?
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: S10 Conversion
        by "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Michael,

Make sure you use a single string of batteries, as many
S10 conversions (all US Electricars) use a double string
and have trouble with balance between the two strings.

I use a single string of 26x 110 Ah batteries (UB121100)

More info about the US Electricars on
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/uselectricar/ 

Success,

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael Mohlere
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:53 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: S10 Conversion


All -

I am located in Huntsville, AL and am working with Steve Clunn and another 
local expert on converting my first EV, which will be a Chevy S10.  Seems 
like the battery discussion is running toward Hawkers or Optimas, esp. since

I would prefer to avoid the maintenance aspect of the floodeds.  Couple of 
questions:

- What type of Hawker Batteries are recommended for an EV, so I can price 
them out.
- Same question for the Optimas.

- What kind of acceleration can I expect? I realize it will not be neck 
breaking, but there seems to be little info on this subject.....seems like 
some straight forward physics and math would provide a 
ballpark....obviously, there must be more to it than that!

Any questions or suggestions would be welcome.  We are in the process of 
purchasing a Zilla controller and a Warp 9 motor for the conversion.

I primarily wanted to initiate a post on the list so you would know that 
there will soon be 1 more EV on the road.  Of course, I would also imagine 
that I will be needing your help one day soon!

Thx, Michael Mohlere

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't find the article.

Mike



--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "EVRIDER" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> ________________________
> 230mph Electric Car 
> Posted by michael on Sun Nov 21, '04 10:02 PM
> 
> An anonymous reader writes "It ain't cheap, but Hiroshi Shimizu has
finally shown off his latest electric car 'Eliica'. It accelerates
faster than a Porsche 911 Turbo, and will cruise for 200 miles on a
one hour charge. Stories at drive.com.au, and an image video and tech
video. Interestingly, Shimizu believes that the Japanese motor
industry is deliberately ignoring his invention and instead focusing
on complex hybrids, as a simple electric engine dramatically lowers
the cost of manufacturing, and will lead to a flood of cheap, mass
produced cars from Chinese factories." A UK auto site has a story as
well, including a test drive. 
> 
> ________________________________
> Anyone else seen this one? 
> 
> -EVRIDER
>





--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
I didn't find the article.

Mike

http://www.drive.com.au/editorial/ArticleDetail.aspx?ArticleID=8754

And I think the UK auto site mentioned is this:

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/motoringpreviews/51690/eliica_eightwheeler.html

Another story here:

http://www.greencarcongress.com/2004/11/8wheeling_with_.html


Hmmm... with a curb weight of 5291 lbs, eight 60kW in-wheel drive motors and a recorded top speed of > 200 MPH, it's Lithium-Ion battery pack must be truly impressive to secure a 200 mile range, and it takes *10* hours to recharge. The retail cost (production version) of the current prototype is estimated at $230,000 (ouch!)

BTW, the car was first shown around November 2004. It appears to be funded by the Keio University (where Hiroshi Shimizu is a professor) and is still in development:

http://www.spacemart.com/reports/Japan_Creates_The_Worlds_Fastest_Electric_Sedan.html


~ Peanut Gallery ~

--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone,

I just got back from a 2 week trip out of the country, and without kids around, had some extra time in the evenings to work on the 200sx conversion website.

Site location: http://www.evsource.com/conversion/

This has been long overdue! I got the bulk of the conversion done in December of 2004. I tried to take lots of pictures. There are over 600 of them!

There is still lots to be done. Most of the pictures don't have captions yet. I focused on getting the pictures out there in thumbnail view, and also availability to the larger-sized ones. Hopefully, I'll get around to documenting what's going on in the pictures.

Let me know if any of the pages don't work, or if any pictures don't show up correctly.

-Ryan
--

- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Summer Special - Free shipping on all orders over $500!
Includes Zillas, WarP and Impulse Motors, and PFC Chargers
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All,
Although this went out to our Denver Electric Vehicle Council e-mail
members today, I thought I should post it to the EVDL for non-members that
are on the list!
Thanks,
BB


Dust off your eelectric scooter/(drag)motorcycle/electrathon/whatever, or
worsh off your eelectric golfcart/(ZENN)neighborhoodEV/on-road
conversion/whatever, 'cause it's time for the Lyons' Good Old Days parade
this Saturday, June 24th, starting at 10:00 AM sharp. As always, this
parade is part of a huge annual Lyons celebration (30th annual going from
June 22nd through 25th), which will include a softball tournament, rodeo,
event stage with music, KidSpace, craft fair and flea market, barrel
racing, talent show, food vendors, carnival, teen dance, beer garden, art
work, and the list goes on! The parade area will be open for line-up
beginning around 9 AM, and they ask that all entries be in line at the
staging area by 9:30 AM (go to the canopy at Valley Bank on Second Avenue
and Highway 66 for exact line-up location). Come early for the Firefighters
Pancake Breakfast at the Lyons Fire Station, corner of Broadway and 3rd
Avenue (across from the Post Office) from 6 to 10 AM (yes, this is a
fund-raiser!). Questions? Call Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins at (303)823-5145.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael,
Good luck on your work to come.  With a Zilla 1K and a WarP9 you can expect 
excellent acceleration if your pack volatage is high enough.  I paid the extra 
$500 for the 300V Zilla.  I'm running 192 V nominal pack voltage and my 4060 lb 
mitsubishi pickup will bark the tires in 2nd gear.  Although my clutch slips 
slightly under sustained torque so I have to back off the power until I can get 
a better clutch.  My clutch looked in excellent condition when I put the motor 
in and as has been advised several times on this board it would be far easier 
to go ahead and upgrade it the first time  if you even think you want to hot 
rod around.  If that doesn't appeal to you then the stock clutch in decent 
condition will work just fine.  Someone only running 144-156 V with a stock 
Zilla would have to comment for you on if that is enough.  I would guess that 
at 156V you would still get a fairly good acceleration, most likely on par to 
slightly better than the ICE, especially if the donor wa
s only a 4 cylinder.

I can't comment on the Hawker/Optima decision.  I bought Deka Intimidators 
9A31D's. Although not rated as high on CA's (800 amps)    I'm approaching 
closer to max Zilla current limit on the motor than on the batteries.  Probably 
the higher you go in pack voltage the Zilla's current limit will be reached 
sooner  on the motor side.  I just happend to get a deal I couldn't refuse on 
the Deka's and so I'll make a report back on them once I get more miles on them.

Mike,
Anchorage, AK
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/756

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Mohlere <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:53 am
Subject: S10 Conversion
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu

> All -
> 
> I am located in Huntsville, AL and am working with Steve Clunn and 
> another 
> local expert on converting my first EV, which will be a Chevy S10. 
> Seems 
> like the battery discussion is running toward Hawkers or Optimas, 
> esp. since 
> I would prefer to avoid the maintenance aspect of the floodeds.  
> Couple of 
> questions:
> 
> - What type of Hawker Batteries are recommended for an EV, so I 
> can price 
> them out.
> - Same question for the Optimas.
> 
> - What kind of acceleration can I expect? I realize it will not be 
> neck 
> breaking, but there seems to be little info on this 
> subject.....seems like 
> some straight forward physics and math would provide a 
> ballpark....obviously, there must be more to it than that!
> 
> Any questions or suggestions would be welcome.  We are in the 
> process of 
> purchasing a Zilla controller and a Warp 9 motor for the conversion.
> 
> I primarily wanted to initiate a post on the list so you would 
> know that 
> there will soon be 1 more EV on the road.  Of course, I would also 
> imagine 
> that I will be needing your help one day soon!
> 
> Thx, Michael Mohlere
> 
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Greetings all,

I'm new to the list and thought I should say hello.

I've just purchased a '98 Ford Ranger that I'm planning to convert. 

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4641794424&ssPageName=
ADME:B:EOIBSA:CA:11

I've had a few contacts with Victor, Rick Lane and Neil Grove. I'm
looking forward to a mutually beneficial sharing of info with many of
you as my project moves ahead. I'd especially like hearing from those of
you who have done Ranger and/or S10 conversions; and also from those of
you who have designed battery boxes for use with floodies in cold
climates.

One of my initial interests (before dissection begins) is the "stuff I
can do now"...like switching to LRR tires, light 15" wheels, etc.
Suggestions?

Thanks very much.

Steven Potter
'98 Ranger / Toronto
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Michael,

Yes the mount bolts the motor to the frame of the truck. See it here: http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1058&product_id=1072 You can get decent acceleration with flooded batteries. Use a Zilla Z1K controller and just turn the battery amps down to 500 or 600 amps and leave motor amps at 1000. Flooded batteries don't like being sucked more than 600 amps. I remember in the old days when a 1000 amp controller was the ultimate racing controller. Now we think of them as street controllers. Time changes :-)

Roderick

Roderick Wilde,  President,  EV Parts Inc.
        Your Online EV Superstore
              www.evparts.com
               1-360-385-7082
Phone: 360-582-1270  Fax: 360-582-1272
       PO Box 834, Carlsborg, WA 98324
108-B Business Park Loop, Sequim, WA 98382


----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: S10 Conversion


Roderick -

Thx for the input - I did not know about the frame mounts for the S10 (where can I purchase same?), so that is VERY useful info - I assume you are talking about bolt in mounts to hold the electric motor to the frame of the truck, and not the adaptor, which mounts the motor to the transmission.

I understand that the floodeds will provide more range, however, I also understand there is a penalty in performance (acceleration) - it would be nice to "quantify" the difference, but for some reason that appears to be an elusive piece of information. There is, of course, also the maintenance issue. Dale seems to be leaning toward "Hawkers" as the AGM battery of choice. I understand that just about anything besides floodeds will run twice the cost.

My objective is to put together a vehicle that will give the EV reasonable acceleration (so folks aren't flipping me the bird on the street!) and hopefully a good showing to the public at large.

The GOOD news is that if I decide on the next pack to switch to floodeds, I can do so w/out having to do much more than switch charging schemes.....right??

 Any further info you have would be welcome!!!

Thx, Michael Mohlere, Huntsville, AL


From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: S10 Conversion
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 08:34:42 -0700

Hi Michael,

Before you give up on flooded batteries could you tell me what type of range you want from your vehicle? Also did the people helping you let you know that there is already bolt in motor mounts available that mate right to your existing frame mounts in your S-10?

Roderick

Roderick Wilde,  President,  EV Parts Inc.
        Your Online EV Superstore
              www.evparts.com
               1-360-385-7082
Phone: 360-582-1270  Fax: 360-582-1272
       PO Box 834, Carlsborg, WA 98324
108-B Business Park Loop, Sequim, WA 98382



----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: S10 Conversion


All -

I am located in Huntsville, AL and am working with Steve Clunn and another local expert on converting my first EV, which will be a Chevy S10. Seems like the battery discussion is running toward Hawkers or Optimas, esp. since I would prefer to avoid the maintenance aspect of the floodeds. Couple of questions:

- What type of Hawker Batteries are recommended for an EV, so I can price them out.
- Same question for the Optimas.

- What kind of acceleration can I expect? I realize it will not be neck breaking, but there seems to be little info on this subject.....seems like some straight forward physics and math would provide a ballpark....obviously, there must be more to it than that!

Any questions or suggestions would be welcome. We are in the process of purchasing a Zilla controller and a Warp 9 motor for the conversion.

I primarily wanted to initiate a post on the list so you would know that there will soon be 1 more EV on the road. Of course, I would also imagine that I will be needing your help one day soon!

Thx, Michael Mohlere




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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 08:33 AM 20/06/06 -0700, Chet wrote:
I was hoping someone would have a schematic and parts list for a basic manually controlled charger just one step up from a bad boy. I would like to control the
end voltage and current manually. I don't mind having to babysit it. I could
use and external voltmeter but I think I would like to have a built in ammeter
on the DC side. (Hope that doesn't complicate it too much)

I have an 18 battery string of 6v floodeds. <snip> About 10A max into

G'day Chet

Sounds like you need a variac charger of some form - either a 10A variac or a smaller one with the output controlling a transformer that bucks the mains down for your 108V pack (I assume you live in a land of 110V "mains" power?). Add a rectifier on a heatsink, an inductor if you can find one to improve its' manners and an ammeter and voltmeter.

These type of chargers are generally built based on things you "find", rather than buying everything needed. A variac from a 'hamfest' or if luck has it a second-hand shop, an industrial 'junk dealer' (where my 240VAC 30A variac came from, equivalent to US$70 just in need of a new terminal panel) or a friend. Once you have some of the important bits, go and buy the rest to match it.

E.G: you may "find" a 2A or a 5A variac, too small to use directly for charging, so go looking for a transformer with 20 to 30V out at 10A or a bit more, control the input of that with the variac. Put the secondary in series with the mains so that the winding is reverse-phase to the mains (subtracts voltage instead of adding it). Connect your rectifier, an inductor if you can find one suitable (don't stress without it). Add some meters so that you can see what it is doing and throw it all in a case. If you "find" a 10A variac, you don't need the second transformer. If you "find" a motorised variac, you may be able to put a little "smarts" on it and have it do its' own adjusting. See what you can turn up and then come back with "I have these parts, what else do I need, how do I connect them?"

Hope this helps

[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Michael

I've got an S-10 with floodies. And I am more than happy with it.
Acceleration is ok, around the same like a regular S-10 with a small
engine and some load, in other words, not breath taking but ok for
traffic. I run 144 V of T-125s flooded and I have a 55 mph range of around
40-50 Miles.

Though you might be interested in a bit more detail.

Michaela


>   I understand that the floodeds will provide more range, however, I also
> understand there is a penalty in performance (acceleration) - it would be
> nice to "quantify" the difference, but for some reason that appears to be
> an
> elusive piece of information.  There is, of course, also the maintenance
> issue.  Dale seems to be leaning toward "Hawkers" as the AGM battery of
> choice.  I understand that just about anything besides floodeds will run
> twice the cost.
>
>   My objective is to put together a vehicle that will give the EV
> reasonable
> acceleration (so folks aren't flipping me the bird on the street!) and
> hopefully a good showing to the public at large.
>
> The GOOD news is that if I decide on the next pack to switch to floodeds,
> I
> can do so w/out having to do much more than switch charging
> schemes.....right??
>
>   Any further info you have would be welcome!!!
>
> Thx, Michael Mohlere, Huntsville, AL
>
>
>>From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Reply-To: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Subject: Re: S10 Conversion
>>Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 08:34:42 -0700
>>
>>Hi Michael,
>>
>>  Before you give up on flooded batteries could you tell me what type of
>>range you want from your vehicle? Also did the people helping you let you
>>know that there is already bolt in motor mounts available that mate right
>>to your existing frame mounts in your S-10?
>>
>>Roderick
>>
>>Roderick Wilde,  President,  EV Parts Inc.
>>         Your Online EV Superstore
>>               www.evparts.com
>>                1-360-385-7082
>>Phone: 360-582-1270  Fax: 360-582-1272
>>        PO Box 834, Carlsborg, WA 98324
>>108-B Business Park Loop, Sequim, WA 98382
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Mohlere"
>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
>>Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:52 AM
>>Subject: S10 Conversion
>>
>>
>>>All -
>>>
>>>I am located in Huntsville, AL and am working with Steve Clunn and
>>> another
>>>local expert on converting my first EV, which will be a Chevy S10.
>>> Seems
>>>like the battery discussion is running toward Hawkers or Optimas, esp.
>>>since I would prefer to avoid the maintenance aspect of the floodeds.
>>>Couple of questions:
>>>
>>>- What type of Hawker Batteries are recommended for an EV, so I can
>>> price
>>>them out.
>>>- Same question for the Optimas.
>>>
>>>- What kind of acceleration can I expect? I realize it will not be neck
>>>breaking, but there seems to be little info on this subject.....seems
>>> like
>>>some straight forward physics and math would provide a
>>>ballpark....obviously, there must be more to it than that!
>>>
>>>Any questions or suggestions would be welcome.  We are in the process of
>>>purchasing a Zilla controller and a Warp 9 motor for the conversion.
>>>
>>>I primarily wanted to initiate a post on the list so you would know that
>>>there will soon be 1 more EV on the road.  Of course, I would also
>>> imagine
>>>that I will be needing your help one day soon!
>>>
>>>Thx, Michael Mohlere
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--
>>>No virus found in this incoming message.
>>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>>Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.1/369 - Release Date: 6/19/2006
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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>>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello, I'm looking into starting a business converting cars to E-power.
Is this a viable business? Will people buy converted e-cars with sufficient profit margin?

I'd appreciate any feedback on the business idea.

I'll be certain to have many technical questions to follow as I do my first car.

Thanks,
Jack Murray

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just learned today that in order to register my imported-from-USA
truck in Ontario I will need to have it “upgraded” to run with lights on
at all times. SYMBOL 76 \f "Wingdings" \s 12

I expect this is one of the first things I’ll want to un-do as I convert
to electric drive. Has anyone had any experience with this requirement?
Best to install a manual switch as an over ride to save on amps?

Steven Potter
’98 Ranger / Toronto
 HYPERLINK "mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 


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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
8:08 PM
Bill,
Charge the pack to about 4.0 or 4.1V/cell average, or some other value depending on what percentage that 5.5 miles gives you back of your total range. Just make sure no cells are going too high during regen (using the over-voltage warning output on the Stybrook modules to cut off regen or at least warn you to do so) Probably it would be ideal to have 2 controllable regulator cut-in values, with a lower one for charging to a lower voltage, but they are not made to do this. Instead of "equalization", I would say "balance", to not give anyone the bad idea of putting an overcharge on lithium ion cells to "equalize" them as is done with lead acid. They will not get out of balance after just one day/one charging.

Doug


----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: RE: Regen Off the Bat


Interesting way of looking at things, Doug.  Thanks.  If I understand
correctly, you're saying to equalize the cells at 4.0V each night. Then let the regen take them over 4.0V. It shouldn't matter that they'll be slightly
out of equalization at that point, because the next night, they'll be
equalized back to 4.0V again.


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
8:00 PM
My cells are only being charged up to about 4.1V max, so the Stybrook BMS modules don't get to do anything, I would expect. Every month or so I will open up the back and check the cell voltage and charge the lowest ones individually with a 4.25V power supply. They don't go out of balance all that fast.

Doug


----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: RE: Stybrook Bulk Purchase


Snipped >
Doug, what has your experience been on how long it takes your pack to reach
equilibrium?

Thanks.

Bill Dennis



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Steven

Are you on the EVCO mailing list?  You might pose this question to the
Canucks...errrr...  eh?

See here:
http://www.evco.ca/contact.html

and more especially here:
http://evco.tricolour.net/

also here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/TorontoEVA/

G'luck w/the Ranger
Lock
Toronto

--- Steven Potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I just learned today that in order to register my imported-from-USA
> truck in Ontario I will need to have it “upgraded” to run with lights
> on
> at all times. SYMBOL 76 \f "Wingdings" \s 12
> 
> I expect this is one of the first things I’ll want to un-do as I
> convert
> to electric drive. Has anyone had any experience with this
> requirement?
> Best to install a manual switch as an over ride to save on amps?
> 
> Steven Potter
> ’98 Ranger / Toronto
>  HYPERLINK "mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hmmmmm... Only 89,200 hits for "Eliica" from Google
:)
Lock
Toronto
 
--- Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I didn't find the article.
> 
> Mike

> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "EVRIDER" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > ________________________
> > 230mph Electric Car 
> > Posted by michael on Sun Nov 21, '04 10:02 PM
> > 
> > An anonymous reader writes "It ain't cheap, but Hiroshi Shimizu has
> finally shown off his latest electric car 'Eliica'. It accelerates
> faster than a Porsche 911 Turbo, and will cruise for 200 miles on a
> one hour charge. Stories at drive.com.au, and an image video and tech
> video. Interestingly, Shimizu believes that the Japanese motor
> industry is deliberately ignoring his invention and instead focusing
> on complex hybrids, as a simple electric engine dramatically lowers
> the cost of manufacturing, and will lead to a flood of cheap, mass
> produced cars from Chinese factories." A UK auto site has a story as
> well, including a test drive. 
> > 
> > ________________________________
> > Anyone else seen this one? 
> > 
> > -EVRIDER

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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--- Begin Message ---
I talked to the driver of a (UPS?) delivery van billed as hybrid with
Azure decals. He said acceleration sucked, but that "management" loved
the thing `cause it saves gas.

Then again, I've seen the guy since, and he seems to keep up fine in
the bumber-to-bumper traffic (all we see around here anyway - downtown
Toronto <grin>)

Of course, he knew zip about what battery chemistry was being employed,
caps, etc etc. Perhaps not a bad thing ie "user friendly"...

Lock

--- Jonathan Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Options?
> 
> How about we dress Lee Hart up in a dress and wig and have him
> infiltrate Azure Dynamics to learn how they integrate NessCaps
> into their hybrid delivery vans?

__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

WORLDS COSTLIEST ADVT!!! COST  $ 6million and was done in 606 shots in 
3mnths!!!! Cool for sci maniacs!

http://www.steelcitysfinest.com/HondaAccordAd.htm 




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Depending on the model of the truck, you can check with the dealer. It
varies according to type/model/year, but some trucks have this option just
by setting the switch, others use a replacement headlight switch, and others
use a relay. You can also check what rating the headlights need to be...
will marker lights do the job?

Our new Ford van isn't supposed to have these always-on lights, but was set
up this way for the vanpool rental trucks. If I recall, the dealer just
added a fuse to the panel. While lights do draw some power, it's usually not
all that much, compared to moving the vehicle. I calced I could leave the
lights on for 4 hours and lose less than a mile of range, on my former rig.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steven Potter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'EV List'" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: Daytime lights requirement?


> I just learned today that in order to register my imported-from-USA
> truck in Ontario I will need to have it “upgraded” to run with lights on
> at all times. SYMBOL 76 \f "Wingdings" \s 12
>
> I expect this is one of the first things I’ll want to un-do as I convert
> to electric drive. Has anyone had any experience with this requirement?
> Best to install a manual switch as an over ride to save on amps?
>
> Steven Potter

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--- Begin Message ---
A quick browse of eBay came up with this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8069651792 - is
this what you are talking about? How does the stall speed figure into electric
motors and can this be adjusted towards zero rpm?

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- This article echoes GM's claim that "no one bought EV1's". The article carefully does not mention the multitude of obstacles that GM placed in the path of would-be buyers.

Even the most popular car model would not do well if:

1) You only sold it at two locations in the entire world.
2) You wouldn't sell it, but would only lease it.
3) You had to have an income of over $100,000 to qualify for a lease.
4) You had to pass a written test to qualify for a lease.
5) You had to live within 50 miles of one of these two dealerships.
6) You had to wait a year to get one.

The article didn't mention any of this. Not a very credible article, I would say.

Bill Dube'

At 08:49 AM 6/20/2006, you wrote:
Some time back, I signed up for Google News feeds, specifically, Hybrids, and EV's

This one is good enough to Re-Post here... Go down to the LAST Paragraph...especially....

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Columns/articleId=115786
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle,  WA  98115-7230
Day:  206 850-8535
Eve:  206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web:     http://www.seattleeva.org


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On 20 Jun 2006 at 14:36, Michael Mohlere wrote:

> I understand that just about anything besides floodeds will run twice
> the cost.

It's actually worse than that, if you calculate it per mile.  Of course much 
depends on how you treat your vehicle and battery, but several years ago for 
my purposes I calculated the cost of several different battery types.  This 
is battery amortization only and does not include electricity or replacement 
labor :

Golf car batteries (US 2200) - 2 cents per mile
Trojan 27TMH marine batteries - 8 cents per mile
Optima G31 AGM batteries - 14 cents per mile

Cost comparison per Watt-hour of capacity is also worth noting.  Here are 
two of the above batteries at 75 amps and 144 volts :

US 2200s - 6.4 cents per WH
Optimas G31s - 19 cents per WH

The numbers would be a bit different today as batteries cost more in 
general, and the proportion of cost attributable to lead is higher in golf 
car batteries.  But I'll warrant that the differences will still be 
considerable.

If fast acceleration is very important to you, then golf car batteries are 
probably not for you.  In most conversions they deliver performance that is 
quite moderate.  Certainly it's ample for a lot of people.  However, those 
who tend to poke the accelerator hard as a matter of course, and want the 
vehicle to leap ahead, will have to adjust their expectations - or go with 
AGMs.

The largest single cost in running an EV is battery amortization.  You'll 
pay a fairly substantial premium for aggressive performance, probably 
proportinally more than you would in a high performance gasser compared to 
an econobox gasser.  For many people on this list, it is; for me and for 
several others, it's not.  You have to decide whether it's worth it to you.  


> My objective is to put together a vehicle that will give the EV reasonable
> acceleration (so folks aren't flipping me the bird on the street!) and
> hopefully a good showing to the public at large.

Once again this is a matter of personal preference - and I'd also say, 
without meaning any offense or criticism, ego.  

I drive moderately in every vehicle, no matter what's under the hood - gas 
or electric, flea-power or 8 cylinder monster.  I really don't care what the 
public at large thinks of my cars.  They're welcome to buy whatever they 
want or need.  My cars are exactly what >I< want and need.  If they 
desperately want to go faster than I do, if they're gonna just bust at 
losing those 20 seconds, I'll be glad to pull over and let them pass - and I 
do.

But I also understand that to some folks, moderate performance (some here 
would say "pokey" ;-) is frustrating.  So, again, what do you want and need, 
and what's it worth to you?


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 20 Jun 2006 at 12:47, Roland Wiench wrote:

> The fully manual value body allows you to operate using the stock transmission
> détente linkage. 

What is a detente linkage?  I'm not familar with that type.  The only 
meaning I know of for detente has to do with politics.

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/detente


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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--- Begin Message ---
On 20 Jun 2006 at 20:33, Steven Potter wrote:

> I just learned today that in order to register my imported-from-USA
> truck in Ontario I will need to have it œupgraded to run with lights on
> at all times. SYMBOL 76 \f "Wingdings" \s 12

??? oeupgraded ??? SYMBOL 76 ???

> 
> I expect this is one of the first things I™ll want to un-do as I convert
> to electric drive. Has anyone had any experience with this requirement?
> Best to install a manual switch as an over ride to save on amps?

No need.  Especially in a truck, the energy use will be negligible compared 
to driving.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike -

300V Zilla?? Hmmm.... I can see this is going to be an expensive "hobby" for lack of a better word - more like a cause....anywho, thanks for giving me some input on Warp 9, battery pack, and controller. I am anxious to get started turning some bolts, etc, but I also prefer to move deliberately and w/ the advice of some good folks like yourself!

Thx, Mike


From: MIKE & PAULA WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: S10 Conversion
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 11:58:25 -0800

Michael,
Good luck on your work to come. With a Zilla 1K and a WarP9 you can expect excellent acceleration if your pack volatage is high enough. I paid the extra $500 for the 300V Zilla. I'm running 192 V nominal pack voltage and my 4060 lb mitsubishi pickup will bark the tires in 2nd gear. Although my clutch slips slightly under sustained torque so I have to back off the power until I can get a better clutch. My clutch looked in excellent condition when I put the motor in and as has been advised several times on this board it would be far easier to go ahead and upgrade it the first time if you even think you want to hot rod around. If that doesn't appeal to you then the stock clutch in decent condition will work just fine. Someone only running 144-156 V with a stock Zilla would have to comment for you on if that is enough. I would guess that at 156V you would still get a fairly good acceleration, most likely on par to slightly better than the ICE, especially if the donor wa
s only a 4 cylinder.

I can't comment on the Hawker/Optima decision. I bought Deka Intimidators 9A31D's. Although not rated as high on CA's (800 amps) I'm approaching closer to max Zilla current limit on the motor than on the batteries. Probably the higher you go in pack voltage the Zilla's current limit will be reached sooner on the motor side. I just happend to get a deal I couldn't refuse on the Deka's and so I'll make a report back on them once I get more miles on them.

Mike,
Anchorage, AK
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/756

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Mohlere <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:53 am
Subject: S10 Conversion
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu

> All -
>
> I am located in Huntsville, AL and am working with Steve Clunn and
> another
> local expert on converting my first EV, which will be a Chevy S10.
> Seems
> like the battery discussion is running toward Hawkers or Optimas,
> esp. since
> I would prefer to avoid the maintenance aspect of the floodeds.
> Couple of
> questions:
>
> - What type of Hawker Batteries are recommended for an EV, so I
> can price
> them out.
> - Same question for the Optimas.
>
> - What kind of acceleration can I expect? I realize it will not be
> neck
> breaking, but there seems to be little info on this
> subject.....seems like
> some straight forward physics and math would provide a
> ballpark....obviously, there must be more to it than that!
>
> Any questions or suggestions would be welcome.  We are in the
> process of
> purchasing a Zilla controller and a Warp 9 motor for the conversion.
>
> I primarily wanted to initiate a post on the list so you would
> know that
> there will soon be 1 more EV on the road.  Of course, I would also
> imagine
> that I will be needing your help one day soon!
>
> Thx, Michael Mohlere
>
>


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