EV Digest 5637
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: DC Motor torque calculations
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
by "Mark Fisher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Electric Drag Scooter
by "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Electric Drag Scooter
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Electric Drag Scooter
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Full Time EV Job in Seattle
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Zombie's New DC-DC, Chris Paine to Ride in White Zombie
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) EV parts
by "rcboyd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: New EVs at London motor show
by "Dave Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
by "Peter Shabino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Zombie's New DC-DC, Chris Paine to Ride in White Zombie
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: E-Meter serial isolator
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: EV parts
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Magne Charge (Large Paddle System [LPI]) questions ??? EDVL list
by "Steve Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
by Steven Ciciora <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Trying to understand shunt regs
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Trying to understand shunt regs
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Electric Drag Scooter
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: EV for a different customer.
by "Jonathan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Magne Charge (Large Paddle System [LPI]) questions ??? EDVL
list
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: E-Meter serial isolator
by Cory Cross <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Electric Drag Scooter
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Question on my whining controller.
by "Curtis Hollingshead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: isuzu or mitsubishi truck conversion
by "Tom Carpenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: An Automotive Zoo, Horns for EV's
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I like your ideas. I'm having to make my adaptor bigger than it has
to be to accomodate the stock clutch/flywheel, a smaller SBC would
have been nice (maybe next conversion).
Food for thought:
It seems that there might be a shift away from aluminum towards steel
for adaptors. Steve Clunn <http://www.grassrootsev.com>, Reverend
Gadget <http://www.leftcoastconversions.com>, and Wilderness EV
<http://www.e-volks.com> are companies doing steel adaptors. Hobbyist
convertors like <http://www.poormansev.com> and myself are doing
steel, too.
I originally thought I'd just do aluminum. Four things swung me away
towards steel:
* Steel is much cheaper than Al
* Steel is easier to weld than Al
* I think that a welded, then machined, steel adaptor can be held
to tighter tolerances than bolting 3 Al pieces together
* I need to have a 1/4 inch steel scatter shield, so the adaptor
does double duty
--- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ...
> What if we took this approach? (I have talked this talk before)
>
> Standards.
>
> 7",8",9" taper lock to small block chevy crank. I got quotes for a
> machine shop to make small quantities. The quote needs larger and
> repeat quantities to make it feasable. This is one adapter and 3
> possible taperlock sheeves we could use on all conversions if we
> also use the next standard.
>
> Button flywheel for SBC and dual plate 7" racing clutch. These are
> standard wheather you use tilton,clutchmaster, and others.
> The disks are the same, just order with correct spline.
>
> Aluminum motor bell. These give a 12" dia mouting register and set
> back the motor just enough to use one of the standard plate
> thicknesses for the tranny to bell adapter. I don't yet know how
> many models differing in only the depth we need. Once this info is
> had we make castings that get cleaned up in the cnc to furthor
> reduce costs.
>
> The standard thickness plate is water jet to profile, dropped in a
> cnc and the 12" register is cleaned up and the entire bolt and
> dowel pattern is walked off.
> ...
__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
Steve & others:
Well, I asked what stupid thing I'd done, and a burned out bulb is pretty
stupid. I thought of that as I wrote up the Q, but it will have to wait
untill I get home to find out...
The bulb is a PR-2 all right, but I didn't check bulb continuity. Glad I
bought 10 bulbs from Mouser. Boy they do deliver fast...
Mark
A couple of things: First, if you hook it up backwards like I always do,
the
first time I try one, you burn out the 2.3 volt bulb as soon as you connect
it
up - 10 volts is way too much for the 2.3 volt PR-2 bulb. It's a quick
flash -
you can miss it easily. Then you get nothing because that part of the
circuit
is open. (I don't know why I always figure it out backwards, I think the
"electronic" portion of my brain is dyslexic or soemthing.) Next: Are you
using a PR-2 bulb? That's a 2.3 volt bulb, so it lights up right away. If
you're suing a 12 volt bulb it may not be getting enough volts to make a
visible glow.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Has anyone with an electric scooter bothered to get 1/4 mile time slip?
> Apparently Dragtimes.com lists scooters too :-)
> http://www.dragtimes.com/Other-Scooter-Timeslip-5110.html
At 15 MPH, it'd take a while. It looks like that scooter was losing speed
through the traps. (In that MPH, he wouldn't have covered 1/4 mile in that
time, if my chicken scratches are correct.)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Fisher wrote:
> I'm trying to understand Lee Hart's shunt reg's.
>
> I wired what I thought was the circuit, and hooked it to the output
of a 24V, 600MW brick power supply. This supply was fed from a variac to
^^^^^
A 0.6 gigawatt brick. Hmm, must be big one....
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Fisher wrote:
Steve & others:
Well, I asked what stupid thing I'd done, and a burned out bulb is
pretty stupid. I thought of that as I wrote up the Q, but it will have
to wait untill I get home to find out...
*laugh* Actually I did this too. It's handy to have a resistor in series
with the bulb in the 10 ohm category; it starts to smoke a bit and lets
you know it's backwards.
If you use a little resistor, it will blow. And Mouser didn't have 100
bulbs in stock when I built my sets; guess they are getting the point
that PR2 bulbs are cool.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Deafscooter would fit right in. He has driven some very fast scooters.
Lawrence Rhodes........
----- Original Message -----
From: "nikki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 1:39 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Drag Scooter
> Oh heck, that'd be a laugh. Just let me sort out the new controller,
> figure out why the instrumentation isn't working right and we'll be
> there ;)
>
>
> On 10 Jul 2006, at 09:27, Mike Willmon wrote:
>
> > Has anyone with an electric scooter bothered to get 1/4 mile time
> > slip? Apparently Dragtimes.com lists scooters too :-)
> > http://www.dragtimes.com/Other-Scooter-Timeslip-5110.html
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Gotta get Deafscooter involved. You should see what he does with a welding
set a couple of wheels and an Etek. I drove it and it was scarrier than
Blue Meanie or California Poppie. Lawrence Rhodes.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Drag Scooter
> I have a timeslip for mine. It's got that one beat. It did 21.437 seconds
@
> 49.93 mph.
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EV Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 1:27 AM
> Subject: Electric Drag Scooter
>
>
> > Has anyone with an electric scooter bothered to get 1/4 mile time slip?
> > Apparently Dragtimes.com lists scooters too :-)
> > http://www.dragtimes.com/Other-Scooter-Timeslip-5110.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.10/383 - Release Date: 7/7/2006
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.10/383 - Release Date: 7/7/2006
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am forwarding this on behalf of MC Electric Cars - In Seattle
They are in Need of an EV Teck, with electronic, mechanical, and
electrical background. Contact THEM DIRECTLY... - not me-
- not the LIST -
Here is Their POST:
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dear EV Community:
Its busy for us again and we need an experienced mechanic/service tech.
The person we hire must be able to service, repair and troubleshoot
electric cars, trucks and now scooters.
POSITION IS OPEN NOW.
Full time position. You will be working with Rich Seymour our part time
mechanic. Work hours are fairly flexible.
The shop is at MC EV, 1200 South Dearborn Street, Seattle.
Pay depends upon experience. We are looking for someone that knows
batteries, controllers, chargers, and the internal systems of electric
vehicles.
Also we are looking into new technologies for powering electric cars
(zinc air fuel cells, lithium - ion batteries etc). The person we hire
needs to be open minded and knowledgeable.
You can respond to this email or call me on my cell phone 206-226-3500.
Thanks, Steve Mayeda ( [EMAIL PROTECTED] )
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Just a quick note to let everyone know pictures of Chris Brune's high
voltage capable DC-DC converter, as installed in White Zombie, are up at
the Plasma Boy Racing web page, listed as a sub album in the 'Photos'
section, under 'White Zombie'. The DC-DC converter works very well.
Thanks to Chris Brune for his support and help. Look for a more detailed
report later this week, once I get the back in town and have a chance to
do some nighttime driving.
Speaking of nighttime driving....Chris Paine (Director, WKTEC) will be a
passenger, as White Zombie will be on display at the Portland Premiere
of 'Who Killed the Electric Car' Wednesday of this week at Portland's
Hollywood Theater, and he's setting aside time for a Zombie demo
ride....shoot be fun!
See Ya....John Wayland
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
Chris Brune wrote:
I hope someone who can make it on Friday can get some pictures of the
mounting location. John always does a clean and professional job of
mounting the electronics in his cars.
If someone does get a picture please post somewhere. I didn't actually get
a chance to take any pictures of the outside of the unit. I took several of
the inside so I would remember what I did. ;-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am sorry that I prematurely answered some bodies query about batteries
for sale. I am in the process of making a list of all of the EV
paraphernalia that I have for sale. When I finish the list I will be
prepared to E mail, FAX, or snail mail copies to interested parties who
want to make offers. Five years ago when I thought I was dying of colon
cancer I sold a couple of very expensive items at give away prices. I
will not do that again as I have a good friend who is willing to take
over the sale for me on a commission basis. Only reasonable offers will
be considered.
I will answer the questions a few of you have asked as best I can. The
easy one first is my location. I live in Hayden Idaho which is a suburb
if Coeur d' Alene Idaho, which is about 30 miles east of Spokane
Washington.
The next one is a little more difficult. The Panasonnic PEVE
batteries. They came out of an early model Toyota Prius. I bought two
packs of 36, a total of 72 batteries for $1500. When I took the packs
apart, I measured the voltages of all of the batteries and each and
every one of them was exactly 7.63 volts. Neither one of the packs had
been charged or connected in any way for a different and undetermined
period of time. They had been stored in an unheated shed for over a
year according to the employ that had overseen the removal from the
wrecked Priuses. These are prismatic batteries with a nominal voltage
of 7.2 volts, 6.5 Ah capacity, and weigh 2.53 pounds. They are 10.82"
long, .787" wide, and 4.13" high. There are 6 cells in each plastic
case. According to a test performed Gold Peak Battery company they are
capable of putting out 251 amps for a period of 1 minute. I charge them
with a 250 volt variac equipped with 2 rectifiers in parallel, a volt
meter and an ampmeter. I charge them to about 8.5 volts and then put
the in series packs in parallel with each other and let them slowly
discharge down to about 7.8 volts wher they stay pretty well. I have
been told they can be charged up to 9.5 + volts but I haven't tried it
yet. You have to charge to no higher than 45 deees centigrade and no
faster than a raise in temperature of 2 degrees C in three minutes.
Well that is almost more than I know about them.
I have one home made motorcycle running that I have been experimenting
with and had the intention of enclosing it front wheel and all with the
rider still on the outside. Also:
Four Prestolite motors, 2 with single shaft and 2 with shafts at both
ends.
Four Albright contactors for switching three motors from series to
paralell.
Two Etek permanent magnate motors
Anderson connectors for 2/0 wire
Twenty 13 amp hour hawker batteries in good shape only used for three or
four runs.
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks like they're taking lessons from GM :{
[..]
The snag is that the Smart EV won't actually be for sale. The company hopes
to lease them for about £375 a month, mainly to large companies wanting to
use them as pool cars.
[..]
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: New EVs at London motor show
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 15:53:12 +0100
http://www.guardian.co.uk/cars/story/0,,1815719,00.html
[..]
They're small, eccentric and as quiet as Paris in August. But Britain,
obsessed as it is with speed cameras and petrol prices, has
unexpectedly become the world capital of electric cars.
Next week two models will be launched at the London motor show,
bringing to at least six the number of carmakers competing for a slice
of the emerging "zero emission" market.
[..]
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just make sure the bulb is not in backwards too.
Mike
;)
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mark Fisher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Steve & others:
>
> Well, I asked what stupid thing I'd done, and a burned out bulb is
pretty
> stupid. I thought of that as I wrote up the Q, but it will have to wait
> untill I get home to find out...
>
> The bulb is a PR-2 all right, but I didn't check bulb continuity.
Glad I
> bought 10 bulbs from Mouser. Boy they do deliver fast...
>
> Mark
>
> A couple of things: First, if you hook it up backwards like I
always do,
> the
> first time I try one, you burn out the 2.3 volt bulb as soon as you
connect
> it
> up - 10 volts is way too much for the 2.3 volt PR-2 bulb. It's a quick
> flash -
> you can miss it easily. Then you get nothing because that part of the
> circuit
> is open. (I don't know why I always figure it out backwards, I
think the
> "electronic" portion of my brain is dyslexic or soemthing.) Next:
Are you
> using a PR-2 bulb? That's a 2.3 volt bulb, so it lights up right
away. If
> you're suing a 12 volt bulb it may not be getting enough volts to
make a
> visible glow.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Two of those and a 100MW brick and you have a supply for a delorian :)
(sorry BttF on the brain today)
Later,
Wire
From: Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 12:00:51 -0700
Mark Fisher wrote:
> I'm trying to understand Lee Hart's shunt reg's.
>
> I wired what I thought was the circuit, and hooked it to the output of a
24V, 600MW brick power supply. This supply was fed from a variac to
^^^^^
A 0.6 gigawatt brick. Hmm, must be big one....
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HEY Wayland
Ya know I've been meaning to talk with you about that. Last year you told me
about all the "exposure" the Siamese8 would get running inside White Zombie.
Well when are you gonna start getting on that, huh?? LMAO!!!
Anyway how fun is that! Although for you, I'm sure it's just another day in
Waylands World 8^ P
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello to All,
Just a quick note to let everyone know pictures of Chris Brune's high
voltage capable DC-DC converter, as installed in White Zombie, are up at
the Plasma Boy Racing web page, listed as a sub album in the 'Photos'
section, under 'White Zombie'. The DC-DC converter works very well.
Thanks to Chris Brune for his support and help. Look for a more detailed
report later this week, once I get the back in town and have a chance to
do some nighttime driving.
Speaking of nighttime driving....Chris Paine (Director, WKTEC) will be a
passenger, as White Zombie will be on display at the Portland Premiere
of 'Who Killed the Electric Car' Wednesday of this week at Portland's
Hollywood Theater, and he's setting aside time for a Zombie demo
ride....shoot be fun!
See Ya....John Wayland
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
Chris Brune wrote:
>I hope someone who can make it on Friday can get some pictures of the
>mounting location. John always does a clean and professional job of
>mounting the electronics in his cars.
>
>If someone does get a picture please post somewhere. I didn't actually get
>a chance to take any pictures of the outside of the unit. I took several of
>the inside so I would remember what I did. ;-)
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thank You. Found the layout in the archives. That leads me to the next
question: What is a good source to buy electronic components? Especially
something like a MOCD207-MQT; all I found in Google were wholesales ..
Michaela
> Michaela Merz wrote:
>>
>> Hello:
>>
>> I am about to connect my laptop to the e-meter to get some data I need.
>> However, they suggest using an serial isolator because serial ground is
>> connected to (-) battery pack.
>>
>> Most isolators I found 'just' isolate the data lines. I guess that is
>> ok,
>> however, they need power from the connected units to run the opto
>> isolators. Is the E-meter supplying that voltages? Or what kind of
>> isolators are YOU using to play it safe?
>
> I've published the circuit I use on the EV list before, as have others.
> Basically, you need to completely isolate the E-meter's serial output
> (data, power, and ground) from the laptop. A commercial isolator will
> require a power supply. It's preferable to set it up so this supply is
> powering the laptop side of the isolation barrier. You don't need any
> power on the E-meter side, as the E-meter never receives any RS-232
> data.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Fisher wrote:
> I'm trying to understand Lee Hart's shunt reg's.
> I wired what I thought was the circuit...
> http://www.x-plane.org/home/mf70/_data/Shunt-test.JPG
> Shouldn't the bulb be lit when at 17V potential? At this point,
> wouldn't the bulb be seeing (17-13.6) 3.4 volts?
Yes, that's correct. Your wiring looks right (assuming positive goes to
the banded end of the zeners). There are only 3 parts; hard to wire it
wrong. The only possibilities are thus a) the bulb is burned out, b) the
zeners are the wrong ones, or c) the voltmeter is wrong.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Bob,
I am interested in any or all of your parts depending on the prices,
especially the batteries. Could you please tell me the age of your batteries
both the Prius and the Hawkers and your prices on the pieces? Thanks David
Chapman.
Quoting rcboyd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> I am sorry that I prematurely answered some bodies query about batteries
> for sale. I am in the process of making a list of all of the EV
> paraphernalia that I have for sale. When I finish the list I will be
> prepared to E mail, FAX, or snail mail copies to interested parties who
> want to make offers. Five years ago when I thought I was dying of colon
> cancer I sold a couple of very expensive items at give away prices. I
> will not do that again as I have a good friend who is willing to take
> over the sale for me on a commission basis. Only reasonable offers will
> be considered.
>
>
>
> I will answer the questions a few of you have asked as best I can. The
> easy one first is my location. I live in Hayden Idaho which is a suburb
> if Coeur d' Alene Idaho, which is about 30 miles east of Spokane
> Washington.
>
>
>
> The next one is a little more difficult. The Panasonnic PEVE
> batteries. They came out of an early model Toyota Prius. I bought two
> packs of 36, a total of 72 batteries for $1500. When I took the packs
> apart, I measured the voltages of all of the batteries and each and
> every one of them was exactly 7.63 volts. Neither one of the packs had
> been charged or connected in any way for a different and undetermined
> period of time. They had been stored in an unheated shed for over a
> year according to the employ that had overseen the removal from the
> wrecked Priuses. These are prismatic batteries with a nominal voltage
> of 7.2 volts, 6.5 Ah capacity, and weigh 2.53 pounds. They are 10.82"
> long, .787" wide, and 4.13" high. There are 6 cells in each plastic
> case. According to a test performed Gold Peak Battery company they are
> capable of putting out 251 amps for a period of 1 minute. I charge them
> with a 250 volt variac equipped with 2 rectifiers in parallel, a volt
> meter and an ampmeter. I charge them to about 8.5 volts and then put
> the in series packs in parallel with each other and let them slowly
> discharge down to about 7.8 volts wher they stay pretty well. I have
> been told they can be charged up to 9.5 + volts but I haven't tried it
> yet. You have to charge to no higher than 45 deees centigrade and no
> faster than a raise in temperature of 2 degrees C in three minutes.
> Well that is almost more than I know about them.
>
>
>
> I have one home made motorcycle running that I have been experimenting
> with and had the intention of enclosing it front wheel and all with the
> rider still on the outside. Also:
>
>
>
> Four Prestolite motors, 2 with single shaft and 2 with shafts at both
> ends.
>
>
>
> Four Albright contactors for switching three motors from series to
> paralell.
>
>
>
> Two Etek permanent magnate motors
>
>
>
> Anderson connectors for 2/0 wire
>
>
>
> Twenty 13 amp hour hawker batteries in good shape only used for three or
> four runs.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------
FastQ Communications
Providing Innovative Internet Solutions Since 1993
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello all,
I am having problems with my LPI system and am seeking advice. My system is
a 6.6kw LPI system, stand alone, not connected to the controller, out of a
'96 S-10 Solectria. Does anyone know this system?
I have both the EV200 and EV14043 windows 3.1 diagnostic software for the
charger, and upon hooking the PC up to the LPI system I cannot achieve
communications between the two. The software's communications box reads "
Waiting . ".
Has anyone else used this software who can advise on successful connection
to a PC? . and/or LPI fault diagnosis?
The initial problem is that when I insert the paddle into the LPI port the
cooling fans on the converter & LPI port both run for +/- 10 seconds, then
turn off. Nothing else happens. No voltage or amperes to start a charge,
it just turns off. Sometimes paddle insertion starts the fans, sometimes it
does not.
Input welcome . hopefully someone else out there has worked through LPI bugs
.
Thx,
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I noticed the "Low Battery" symbol on your meter; I
would interpret the meter's display as "Generally
correct, but not always" when it is on.
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mark Fisher wrote:
> > I'm trying to understand Lee Hart's shunt reg's.
> > I wired what I thought was the circuit...
> >
>
http://www.x-plane.org/home/mf70/_data/Shunt-test.JPG
> > Shouldn't the bulb be lit when at 17V potential?
> At this point,
> > wouldn't the bulb be seeing (17-13.6) 3.4 volts?
>
> Yes, that's correct. Your wiring looks right
> (assuming positive goes to
> the banded end of the zeners). There are only 3
> parts; hard to wire it
> wrong. The only possibilities are thus a) the bulb
> is burned out, b) the
> zeners are the wrong ones, or c) the voltmeter is
> wrong.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Chris,
The 10 Ohm goes in *parallel* to the bulb.
(each wire of the resistor attached to each wire of the bulb).
This will also reduce the main drawback of the bulb regulator:
IF the bulb burns out, it is no longer a balancer without this
resistor. Since one battery will then suddenly bave no bypass,
it will quickly drift away from the rest and this battery will
be severely over-charged.
With the parallel resistor the zener-reg will still work somewhat
even with the bulb broken, though it will allow the battery to
go to a higher voltage and keep it there, there is limited
balancing still present.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Christopher Zach
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 1:10 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
Mark Fisher wrote:
> Steve & others:
>
> Well, I asked what stupid thing I'd done, and a burned out bulb is
> pretty stupid. I thought of that as I wrote up the Q, but it will have
> to wait untill I get home to find out...
*laugh* Actually I did this too. It's handy to have a resistor in series
with the bulb in the 10 ohm category; it starts to smoke a bit and lets
you know it's backwards.
If you use a little resistor, it will blow. And Mouser didn't have 100
bulbs in stock when I built my sets; guess they are getting the point
that PR2 bulbs are cool.
Chris
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--- Begin Message ---
Hey! a DC bulb!
We could start a new thread discussing AC vs DC bulbs,
(ahem, errr, NO - I'll shut up now).
PS - I know about LED "bulbs". They *are* DC.
I have a few lying around, but never installed any yet.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Mike Phillips
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 2:07 PM
To: Mark Fisher
Subject: Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
Just make sure the bulb is not in backwards too.
Mike
;)
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mark Fisher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Steve & others:
>
> Well, I asked what stupid thing I'd done, and a burned out bulb is
pretty
> stupid. I thought of that as I wrote up the Q, but it will have to wait
> untill I get home to find out...
>
> The bulb is a PR-2 all right, but I didn't check bulb continuity.
Glad I
> bought 10 bulbs from Mouser. Boy they do deliver fast...
>
> Mark
>
> A couple of things: First, if you hook it up backwards like I
always do,
> the
> first time I try one, you burn out the 2.3 volt bulb as soon as you
connect
> it
> up - 10 volts is way too much for the 2.3 volt PR-2 bulb. It's a quick
> flash -
> you can miss it easily. Then you get nothing because that part of the
> circuit
> is open. (I don't know why I always figure it out backwards, I
think the
> "electronic" portion of my brain is dyslexic or soemthing.) Next:
Are you
> using a PR-2 bulb? That's a 2.3 volt bulb, so it lights up right
away. If
> you're suing a 12 volt bulb it may not be getting enough volts to
make a
> visible glow.
>
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Apparently this tuned-up 1-banger was over his top, as the
trap speed (26.5) multiplied by the ET (32.4) comes down
to only 0.24 mile - so he must have gone faster earlier in
the race.
Maybe his race gas was running empty?
Or his engine overheated?
Anyway - an electric scooter should be able to shred these numbers.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 12:31 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Electric Drag Scooter
> Has anyone with an electric scooter bothered to get 1/4 mile time slip?
> Apparently Dragtimes.com lists scooters too :-)
> http://www.dragtimes.com/Other-Scooter-Timeslip-5110.html
At 15 MPH, it'd take a while. It looks like that scooter was losing speed
through the traps. (In that MPH, he wouldn't have covered 1/4 mile in that
time, if my chicken scratches are correct.)
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--- Begin Message ---
Conti calls it ISAD (Integrated Starter Alternator
Damper<http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/cas/cas/themes/press_services/press_archive/press_archive_2002/pr_2002_03_17_7_en.html>),
Lee.
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--- Begin Message ---
Steve Hawkins wrote:
I am having problems with my LPI system and am seeking advice. My system is
a 6.6kw LPI system, stand alone, not connected to the controller, out of a
'96 S-10 Solectria. Does anyone know this system?
Sort of. I have a 94 Prizm with the CC200 based Magnecharger.
I have both the EV200 and EV14043 windows 3.1 diagnostic software for the
charger, and upon hooking the PC up to the LPI system I cannot achieve
communications between the two. The software's communications box reads "
Waiting . ".
Thoughts:
1) Don't plug into the base station. There's nothing interesting there.
2) There should be a plug in your car for connections to the EV200 or
EV14043 unit. In the Prizm this is a DB9 however it is *NOT* RS232. It's
ttl signal levels which need to be converted to 232 with a simple MAX232
chip. Why they couldn't just put one in....
Has anyone else used this software who can advise on successful connection
to a PC? . and/or LPI fault diagnosis?
Sure. I talk to my MC from time to time.
The initial problem is that when I insert the paddle into the LPI port the
cooling fans on the converter & LPI port both run for +/- 10 seconds, then
turn off. Nothing else happens. No voltage or amperes to start a charge,
it just turns off. Sometimes paddle insertion starts the fans, sometimes it
does not.
Have you tried another Magnecharger base unit? Maybe the unit went
insane. What does the display on the base unit say?
Chris
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello,
www.findchips.com is a metasearch for consumer electronics suppliers.
Digi-Key has the part you are looking for.
Cory Cross
Michaela Merz wrote:
Thank You. Found the layout in the archives. That leads me to the next
question: What is a good source to buy electronic components? Especially
something like a MOCD207-MQT; all I found in Google were wholesales ..
Michaela
Michaela Merz wrote:
Hello:
I am about to connect my laptop to the e-meter to get some data I need.
However, they suggest using an serial isolator because serial ground is
connected to (-) battery pack.
Most isolators I found 'just' isolate the data lines. I guess that is
ok,
however, they need power from the connected units to run the opto
isolators. Is the E-meter supplying that voltages? Or what kind of
isolators are YOU using to play it safe?
I've published the circuit I use on the EV list before, as have others.
Basically, you need to completely isolate the E-meter's serial output
(data, power, and ground) from the laptop. A commercial isolator will
require a power supply. It's preferable to set it up so this supply is
powering the laptop side of the isolation barrier. You don't need any
power on the E-meter side, as the E-meter never receives any RS-232
data.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Yeah, the post about going almost 50MPH on an e-scooter... that's scary to
think of. <g> Didn't I read somewhere that someone went through the 1/4 on
an e-couch? *That's* my sort of ride... even better than the motorized beer
coolers. Mount some pedals, and they'd qualify as a bike here.
I'm figuring the gas scoot driver may have been pulling one of the high
speed stunts... squatting down to get more speed. You can get in quite an
unstable position, real quick, in that position. I'm certain I wouldn't want
to be going 30MPH on the tires they put on those things. (I've seen one
blow. Even at 15+ MPH, it wasn't a pretty sight. The kid was lucky because
he was w/o shoes, in cutoffs and t-shirt... and not even a bike helmet,
naturally.) <g>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Electric Drag Scooter
> Apparently this tuned-up 1-banger was over his top, as the
> trap speed (26.5) multiplied by the ET (32.4) comes down
> to only 0.24 mile - so he must have gone faster earlier in
> the race.
> Maybe his race gas was running empty?
> Or his engine overheated?
>
> Anyway - an electric scooter should be able to shred these numbers.
>
> Cor van de Water
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello all.
New guy here. I've completed my first e.v. conversion, a 1993 Toyota p/u.
Some basics-
System voltage - 144 volts
Controller - Curtis
DC/DC converter - Zivan
Charger - Zivan NG-3
Batteries - 24 Trojan T-145's
Problem- my controller starts to whine excessively towards the end of my
morning and evening commute, and I'm getting less range than expected.
I have a total of three cooling fans blowing on the controller (one on
bottom of a heatsink plate, and two on the control board blowing on each
side.
Typical temp for the controller is ~127 to 130F at the end of my commute.
I understand the Curtis controller whines a bit at the beginning which is
normal, but I'm getting a pretty consistent whine and a lot of thermal
cutout which concerns me.
Tried several things to ensure there's no mechanical drag on the vehicle
pulling too many amps, and still pull ~200A at 40mph in third gear. This
seems excessive, and I don't have much power given the voltage I'm running.
Looking for input/thoughts/suggestions.
Appreciate any help you could give.
Curtis Hollingshead.
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I have just converted an Isuzu pup 1989. When I ordered the motor I sent my
clutch disc in and the vendor made an adaptor for the motor to clutch disc.
Then he sent me a plate to make the adaptor to the bell housing. It was not
hard following his instructions. I should mention that this was for a
clutchless design. I have been driving it daily since 03/03/06 and have no
troubles shifting it without a clutch and really I don't have to shift it
that often.
When I am in town I drive in 2nd gear to about 50mph.
If I want to go over 50mph then I just let off the accel. and slide it out
of second and into third and step back on the accel. No problem.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 11:48 AM
Subject: isuzu or mitsubishi truck conversion
All -
Anyone done an Isuzu truck conversion? Specifically, I am looking for a
premade adaptor for same. I noticed on the electroauto web site that they
have the adaptor for the Mitsubishi "Mighty Max", but not one for the
Isuzu. These smaller (lighter) trucks would appear to be better suited for
an EV conversion from a performance point of view. Any input would be
welcome!
My initial choice was an S10, but I would guess that lighter is better....
Thx, Mike
--
Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.8/381 - Release Date: 7/3/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's quite a horn. It looks like you'll need an industrial compressor to
supply it air, Mark. <g>
My e-Freeway was an alien looking critter. The neighbor gave me a musical
horn he'd had collecting dust. One evening, about 2 hours after dark, the
fog had set in about wheel height after I'd temporarily wired up the horn.
With tendrils of fog whisping up from the wheel wells, and the odd yellow of
mercury lamps, this car pulled along side, went ahead, and dropped back a
couple times. All 5 people (driver included) were looking at that odd little
3 wheeler. (He wasn't watching where he was going for several blocks.)
In the dark, I tried to punch "Dixie" into the keypad... instead hit the
"Close Encounters" theme, as I braked for the store. They seemed to get a
laugh out of that one.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: An Automotive Zoo, Horns for EV's
> This is the one that will be the "voice" of my EV. They call it the
> "hammer" and it is a quad train horn. It is pretty light weight even
though
> it is all metal construction and I already have the compressor and air
tank
> for the air lift system. These things are LOUD! , not the toy horns you
see
> that run off 12 volts! I hooked this thing up and it about took the rest
> of the hair off my head!
> :-)
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140005621750&ih=004&category=60203&ssPageName=STORE:PROMOBOX:NEWLIST
>
> Why not?
>
> Mark Ward
> 95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 8:40 AM
> Subject: Fw: An Automotive Zoo, Horns for EV's
>
>
> > JC Whitney - Everything AutomotiveHi EVerybody;
> >
> > Check out "train Horns" Just the thing for yur EV!
> >
> > Giving a Hoot!
> >
> > Bob
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: JC Whitney Catalog
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 8:11 AM
> > Subject: An Automotive Zoo
> >
> >
> > If you have images disabled or have trouble viewing this
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