I played a bit more and found out a few bits:

 - Changing "Style" in XFCE's appearance switches the theme
   for both GTK+ 2.x and 3.x, no matter what key "gtk-theme-name"
   of /etc/gtk-3.0/settings.ini and ~/.config/gtk-3.0/settings.ini say
   though these files are read according to strace

 - The GTK+ 3.0 engine for Clearlooks (libclearlooks.so) seems to be
   provided by both

     A) x11-themes/gtk-engines-clearlooks-2.91.5 (gnome overlay)
     B) x11-themes/gtk-engines-2.91.1 (gnome overlay)

   at different locations:

     A) /usr/lib64/gtk-3.0/theming-engines/libclearlooks.so
     B) /usr/lib64/gtk-3.0/3.0.0/engines/libclearlooks.so

   GTK seems to looks for (A) only according to strace.

 - Neither package A nor B provide a file

     /usr/share/themes/Clearlooks/gtk-3.0/gtk.css

   which is required to even activate the Clearlooks engine.
   To active the engine, put the line

     * { engine: clearlooks; }

   in.  Expect this to look ugly.

 - By putting

     [Settings]
     gtk-theme-name = Clearlooks

   into /usr/share/themes/Clearlooks/gtk-3.0/settings.ini
   you can produce endless loops.  Nice!

>From a workaround perspective the most interesting question to me is:
where do I get (default or good looking) CSS files for GTK+ 3.0 Clearlooks.

Best,



Sebastian

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