LONG LIVE THE QUEEN: A PEEP INTO NEARBY SAWANTWADI'S ROYALTY A chance encounter with Maharani Satvashiladevi Bhonsale during a tour of temples in North Goa, took Onilda Fernandes and Lisa Monteiro to Sawantwadi in South Maharashtra where they came face-to-face with history, art and a story of a Queen determined to keep her palace.
She's busier than a CEO, overseeing a maternity home and a college simultaneously. As if that's not enough, she also has her own workshop, where she personally works with paintings, embroidery and the likes. Living life queen size? Far from it -- yet admirably, 73-year-old Rani Satvashiladevi Bhonsle (Rajmata) of Sawantwadi never looks ruffled. Even caring for six acres of palace grounds independently, doesn't stymie her. States an adamant Bhonsle, "I don't want the government's help. They once tried to take this palace away from me. Why, I live here! Where did they expect me to go? The municipality can be really nasty that way. But I stuck to my ground, literally." And her grudge does have adequate reason. "I have seen the buildings that the municipality has taken over. They have completely ruined them. Stonework is replaced by concrete. I would hate to see my private property subject to such a destruction." True to her word, The Palace (Rajwada) in the Sindhudurg district of Sawantwadi, Maharashtra, rightfully remains hers. Quiz Her Highness on the practicality of maintaining such a historical site and she is quick to respond, "It is not easy. I have to pay my staff well. But I manage with the income from coconut trees in the palace grounds and handicrafts that we sell." ROYAL BLOOD It's an apocryphal tale. But it bears repetition. One royal family marries into another. In this case, Rani Satvashiladevi Bhonsle from Baroda was married to Lt Col H H Shivram Sawant Bhonsle, Raja of Sawantwadi. "I am the third generation princess from Baroda marrying into this family. Thus, my mother-in-law, was a blood relation, actually my aunt," chuckles the Maharani. Take her back into time when monarchy still reigned supreme, and she is quick to narrate, "I was only six months old when I was first made to ride a horse. In those days, the moment we could sit, we had to get on horseback. Two people would hold me, while I maneuvered with the reins." Young princess Satvashiladevi was also made to learn table tennis, badminton and cricket besides having two Swiss Governesses to teach her etiquettes and English. Her formal education continued at Private Prince's school in Baroda up till the SSC level, before she was married off, at the tender age of 16 years. "Once married, my husband understood my love for painting, embroidery and the likes and encouraged me to pursue my hobbies," acknowledges the Maharani. And why wouldn't he? Being the artistic person that he was. "My husband loved art in all it forms. He was a talented musician and even won a gold medal for his Indian classical and western music. However, I remember at one time, he was so fed up of practicing the same notes on the violin, that he actually sat on it!," laughs the Rajmata. Paired together Ever since the queen made the taluka of Sawantwadi her home, both success and adulation wooed the royal couple ardently. Courting both with equanimity, the Raja stood for Assembly election and won the seat of Sawantwadi for 25 years, until the year 1995, when he passed away. Being the Raja's right hand, the Rani assisted him by sitting on many government and semi government committees, like the State Social Welfare Board. She was also District President of Mahila Arthik Mahamandal and President of Mahila Audyogik Utpadak Sahakari Santha Ltd. In 1961, the couple started a joint venture in one of their palaces, a college -- Shri Pancham Khemraj Mahavidyalaya (named after her father-in-law) for the poor and economically backward children. It is one of the first colleges in the region and to this day, it grows, adapting quite a number of new courses like MSc, Zoology, Apiculture, Bio Technology, etc. "This academic year I have initiated a K.G. and English medium primary school," declares the ever-progressive Maharani. THAT MAJESTIC TOUCH In spite of their hectic schedule, the royal couple, managed to give art a dream like twirl. Inspired to take the initiative in 1972, the Raja began the revival of the traditional art of Ganjifa cards. Recalls the Maharani, "There was only one old man, 87 years or age, who did this kind of work. So, we took upon ourselves the task of getting young students from different walks of life, trained under this artist." And as destiny would have it, the entire Darbar Hall was evacuated of the different administrative offices that functioned there and replaced by workbenches. To this day, you will find at least five-six people working consistently on the intricacies of the Ganjifa cards, right in the middle of the Darbar hall of the palace. "Each of the cards is hand painted, requiring step by step work. Every box has a set of 120 cards with instructions, which are sold the world over. We had to however, change certain techniques, as a lot of material wasn't available from the olden days. Although it is not very profitable, my main aim is to revive this form of art, which was in dying stages and hence, nothing can make me discontinue it." [Ganjifa, or Gânjaphâ, is a card game that originated in Persia and became popular in India under the Mughal emperors in the 16th century. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ganjifa ] PASSION INTO OCCUPATION Currently a great grand mother of two children, Rajmata Bhonsle still makes time to pursue what she most loves doing. That is, painting, embroidery, weaving, beadwork and the likes. "I can barely give two hours in the morning and one hour in the evening, but I somehow fit it in my day." Hardly any on display at the moment, the Maharani grins from ear to ear as she states, "I barely finish an art work and it gets sold. Orders come in from all over India." A glance at her work and it is mostly animals that stare back at you. "I am mostly into nature painting. And being as old as I am, I prefer the traditional works of art. As for modern art, I would rather not criticize, as I don't understand it", states Rani Satvashiladevi. And to shower appreciation, the Rani was conferred with five state awards and one national award. "I would organize many exhibitions on art and handicrafts here in Sawantwadi, as well as in Goa. Hence, you can see the similarity that lies in our artwork." True to her word, she was recently in Goa, to talk on the similarity of the Kavi Art that is found in temples in both, Sawantwadi and Goa. Moreover, her repeated visits here have brought her in close association with Mario Miranda, Yolana de Souza, and other artists here besides having held a number of handicraft exhibitions, at the time of Bandodkar and Shashikala Kakodkar's days in power. FUTURE PLANS? "I want to give some of the rooms of the palace, on rent. Fortunately, my grandson, is studying his hotel management and should do the needful," laughs the Maharani. As for her first passion, she says, "There's nothing more I can do than what I am doing now. For revival of the Ganjifa, I cannot take on more than nine artists, as then it will fall under the Factory Act. And who wants to deal with unions and all that?" CONTACT THE WRITERS: onilda.fernan...@yahoo.com liz_mon...@yahoo.com COURTESY Gomantak Times