I learned how to make the voided velvet in school so I can reproduce the
same looking fabric for the under sleeve and skirt front. I found a deep
pile velvet to use but haven't bought it yet.
So you think that the whole sleeve unit was connected since the chemise does
not go all the way down to the wrist? I didn't see any ruff at the wrist,
but I don't have a detail of that more than a general whole portrait. I can
see some of the details but not too much. It gets fuzzy when I zoom in too
close.
I think I can make the costume with little problem. I plan to take my time
to do it right.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
----- Original Message -----
From: "Becky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are
attached. There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her bodice
or is it attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? One
description said the beading trim was attached to the under layer. What
under layer? Was it attached to a chemise or smock? I don't see any of it
except for the poofs of white.
OK the problem here is you're thinking of 2 layers, smock and gown,
whereas there would almost certainly have been 3 smock, kirtle (which does
the bust supporting work of a corset) and gown. The trim you see around
the neckline would be attached to the kirtle and then the gown's neckline
is cut slightly larger to show off the kirtle's bejewelled neckline. I
seriously doubt that there is any partlet involved, if you look at other
portraits from the same era http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/index.html
it becomes much clearer that it's a necklace. Also if you look carefully
at her wrist you can see that her cuff is gathered into a band, this,
along with the perfect appearance of all the puffs leads me to think that
they are actually faux puffs rather than incredibly huge chemise sleeves
(as they would have to be to fill sleeves that large)
I found a pdf of the costume by Nina ????. It has a white chemise with
blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I don't know.
Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume she knows what
she is talking about in this portrait.
It does look like there's some very simple blackwork (possibly blanket
stitch) around the neckline but I can't see any evidence for that on the
cuffs. Of course if you're not making a slavish reproduction of the
portrait blackwork was very popular at this time and it would be equally
accurate to have blackwork cuffs.
Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood?
I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the
portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can find
gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could embroider it
myself. I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand.
<snip>
It's the trim on her hood, you can see how it forms part of the pattern of
the jewels which run all the way around the French Hood. On the topic of
French hoods, have a look at Ninya Mikhaila's theory on French hood
construction http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/frenchhood.html, I follow a
similar plan, but I attach the veil to the crescent piece and by gathering
a circle of fabric onto the under cap I make it into a caul. See Sarah
Goodman's page http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/coif.html for the
evidence that convinced me that a cauls were worn underneath French Hoods.
For the undersleeves if you're making an exact reproduction of the
portrait it's going to be hard to find the right fabric (though I did once
find a chenille voided velvet that looked close) I think you may have to
cope with a flat brocade. If it makes you feel any better to find out that
a professional costumer had to make the same compromise look at
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/eliztower.html
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
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