I think Miss Manners has covered the evolution of tails and the tuxedo--try one 
of her earlier etiquette books.? Tuxedos were definitely "informal" when first 
developed, so your characters should probably be wearing tails.? I think the 
white tie and tails had been codified by then, to include the starched front 
shirt and white pique waistcoat, but I could be wrong.

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:32 am
Subject: [h-cost] Tux, tails and vests



My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are required  
to do research and designs for the costumes.  There has been a lot of  
discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occasions.  I  
learned 
(Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the rule of thumb is white  tie 
and vest with tails, black tie and vest with tux.  A man in black tie  and 
tails 

would be a servant ie butler or waiter.  So my students have  found a lot of 
research contrary to what my assumption was.  I have seen  pictures of white 
vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with  tuxedos, black 
vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken  for servants 
and all other permutations.  The research they have found is  secondary, 
meaning drawings from the period rather than actual  photographs.  Have I been 
wrong 
all these years?  Also, it was my  understanding that tuxedos were not 
considered proper in the presence of  ladies.  Tails were required for those 
occasions, although I do understand  that this convention gradually faded away. 
 
Can 
someone elucidate me?
 
Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe



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