> Ah Ha! > http://www.museothyssen.org/thyssen_ing/coleccion/obras_ficha_zoom605.html > > I suppose one could argue this isn't a shirt, but I've never seen an under > dress with this kind of cuff...
This type of sleeve appears quite often in dress of Cologne. They are separate sleeves (and here are made with a damask) and come in a variety of styles and are definitely not underwear. But I suspect that what is seen at the neck is a partlet. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Barthel_Bruyn_3.png http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Bartholom%C3%A4us_Bruyn_d._%C3%84._003.jpg http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=22046 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Bruyn_Anne_of_Cleves.jpg I don't think this shows a dress and undersleeve but it shows this sort of cuff treatment is associated with outerlayers. The most common type is very fitted and usually of a piled fabric. But here are even some with short fur turnbacks. There are some Saxon images that show what may be a coloured "shirt" type garment. http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1525cranyounglady.htm (Ignore the text, I think the person who told me about the painting was talking about the gown not the inner layer.) And another of one of the Emperors but in his case (painted terracotta bust) it looks like there is a high necked shirt underneath. Michaela de Bruce (Cleves/Cologne is my "pet" area and I have been trawling through appropriate extant texts to find information. So far the undersleeves appear quite often in one huge inventary with the goller, suggesting they were ordered together and have a similar function- warmth and decoration.) http://glittersweet.com _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
