Hi Penny -
I have a book at home about Mme Paquin - I don't have it here at work. Off the top of my head this is what I know about her.

Jeanne Paquin
1869-1936
maiden name Beckers

born in Saint Denis, France
married in 1891

her salon was at 3 rue de la Paix in Paris

She made evening gowns, used a lot of lace and fur - had a lot of historical inspiration in her designs. She also had tailored day wear and did some costuming for theater. She was a big promoter of her fashions (more than was usual at the time) having models wearing her gowns show up at the opera and things like that - considered sort of outrageous at the time.
She opened salons in London, New York, Madrid, Buenos Aires

She retired from active designing in 1920, her Maison continued on under the direction of Henri Joire (I think he was her half-brother) with designs by Madeline Wallis, in 1936 Ana de Pombo took over the designs and by 1942 the head designer was Antonio del Castillo [later of the house of Lanvin]. Others took over after him and eventually the Maison closed in 1956 under financial difficulties.

She was the first woman designer to recieve the Cross of the Legion of Honor in 1913. She also served as President of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne from 1917-1919

my book (at home) is written by contemporary designer Dominique Sirop- he seems to think she was one of the greatest designers of all time.

I don't know off hand of any book specifically about pre 1930s designers but I would bet that if there is one it's in French.

Agnes


  2. Designers questions (Penny Ladnier)

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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 16:23:50 -0400
From: "Penny Ladnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Designers questions
To: "h-costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I am working on history of fashion designers from the early 20th Century and have a few questions.

Paquin:
I have that Mme Paquin business was from 1891-1956. Does anyone know her first name? I can't find it in my resources. Also I have come across some French images in 1919 for a Joseph Paquin. Would Joseph be a relative working under Mme Paquin's label or house?

Lady Duff Gordon: Did she go by several names. I have in 1907 an illustrator and designer named Lucy and in the 1910s Lucille. Could this be Lady Duff Gordon?

Can anyone suggest a book that would include lesser known designers from pre-1930s? I have a lot of designer images without an information about their business.

For example:
Womenwear: Lewis 1910s, Bernard 1910s, Klein 1910s, Nicole Groult, and Germaine 1900s-1920s. Etienne Drian, 1900s-1910s, I have info that he was an illustrator but I have images from several magazines that refer to him as a fashion designer. I have a small paragraph in one of my books about him.
Menswear: Kriegck 1920s, Larsen 1920s
Milliner: Cora Marson, Camille Roger 1910s-1920s
Hair Designs: Emile 1920s

This is just a few of the designers that I need information. I actually have about 100 designers with lots of images and no background information to go online.

I started this project to shed light on designers so that people would know other designers were important that time seems to have forgotten. I guess the fashion history books have forgotten them too. I would at least like to provide some career highlights for each designer.

I am revamping my Designers of Their Time website, http://www.costumegallery.com/Designers/ . I am about 2/3 finished with the website's makeover. Now visitors can click on the designer names and go to their pages and view career highlights and thumbnail images in our collection. Each designer's page has a beautiful background with their fashion illustrations.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com




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