On 24/05/2010 2:02 PM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:
On Sat, 22 May 2010, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
Does anybody know any pictures from the 13th century/beginning 14th
century where a side lacing could be seen? Except for Spain and Italy:-)
thanks,
Zuzana
Zuzana--
I've been studying 13th century European (mostly English, 'tis true)
costume for...um...about 12 years now and I have yet to find any
evidence of side lacing that isn't Spanish.
Skipping over all the social, political, and religious reasons why,
the look in the 13th century is a simpler and more conservative look
than the tightly laced garments of the 12th or the fitted garments of
the 14th centuries.
What you *will* find:
sleeves that are close to the forearm but looser in the upper
arm--towards the end of the century is when buttoned forearms come
into fashion
deep armholes in the beginning of the century (almost a raglan sleeve)
which gradually get higher as time goes on
gowns for both sexes cut straight and full through the upper body,
high keyhole necklines closed with annular brooches
full skirts with narrow highly-decorated girdles (leather or textile)
mid-calf length skirts with front/back riding slits for men in higher
socio-economic classes
continued use of barbette and fillet for women's headwear, with the
addition of hairnets, or small coifs worn with those white hats
women's hairstyles start becoming wider
But unless you're Spanish, no lacing.
Jen/pixel/Margaret
Just to add another voice, that's what I've seen too. Wimples also
continue through the century. Gowns are often so long and full that you
may see blousing over the narrow belt, especially in the upper classes.
Side lacing just wouldn't be needed with 13th century non-Spanish garments.
Also--you may find a garment in some costume books purporting to be a
13th century surcote that shows side lacing. Sleeveless surcote, yes,
in the second half of the century. Lacing, no. It's a loose garment
that eventually evolves into the sideless surcote. The costume book
depiction is probably a misinterpretation of the Spanish style (but even
with that it's not the surcote that laces, it's the undergown--and then
only on one side!).
Susan
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
