On 27 Oct 2013, at 20:27, Clay Blackwell wrote:

> I agree that the cloth stitch in the Barmen is the give-away, 

It's machine made, but not Barmen machine which has threads moving almost 
exactly as they might in torchon BL.  It looks much more like Leavers machine, 
and "bobbin fining" Leavers lace to be exact - Pat Earnshaw 'Lace Machines and 
Machine Laces" pages 142, 143.  It is the way the 'cloth' stitch is formed 
which identifies this.

I have just looked on the web to find something similar and came up with this 
gem from the V&A.
http://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/Lace%20Booklet.pdf
scroll down to page 26 and you'll see thread diagrams as to how the funny cloth 
stitch is made.

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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