There is just no good automagic way of doing multiple, off camera flashes. With studio flashes you: get a meter, use a digital camera (even a P&S) to check a histogram (you can check this with a P&S by uploading the file into PS), or shoot many, many rolls of film. If your shooting a subject, and want a 1:3 lighting ratio (1.5 stop difference) from one side to the other, TTL won't work. Your better off using both flashes in Auto mode, and set them to give different amounts of light. If I was shooting a person and given the choice between: two independently controlled lights (say into umbrellas), one light and fill card, one light and one light with on camera fill flash; the on camera light would be last and I wouldn't bother with it. You can do "studio" lighting on the cheap, but there are certain basic capabilities you need to get decent results.
BR From: "Dave Miers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Could you please explain this further. I had actually planned on the slave providing most of the light and the popup or hotshoe mounted flash providing the minority of the light. I'm afraid I'm still a bit lost here. I have the PZ-1p and PZ-1 cameras at this point and have no wireless to play with as yet in my Pentax equipment. I also have acquired a professional stand type modeling flash with 3 variing outputs from a local photographer that retired, only $40, and of course would like to implement it. Unfortunately I do not possess any metering equipment other then on camera metering. I have the AF360FGZ and a couple of other off brand flashes for pentax. one of which supports TTL and AF. I had planned to use a minisoftbox on my hotshoe on camera flash with the slaves.
