If you go to a sporting store that sells guns and supplies, "Super Blue" (not
Perma Blue) works great for oxidizing parts and no heating is necessary. It
works great for aging back steel parts after cleaning off rust and buffing
them. It also ages brass...
> Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:43:32 -0800
> From: smst...@gmail.com
> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Victor R
>
> Gosh am I in trouble. Brice and I did my R years ago. Brice used to be my
> paper boy (cute kid) after Jerry Blais quit the route. Well as I recall we
> started with the original copper base and heated it up and but brown gun
> bluing on it. After it dried we used an electric draftsman eraser to remove
> the brown "bluing." It was an easy effect to reproduce. If you screw it up
> just add the brown back in...A Dremel should do the trick with a mild
> cutting rouge. Brice jump in here son....
> The job was a lot of fun. After about 15-20 years you can hardly tell it
> wasn't factory. You could chuck a pencil in a drill..!
> MS
>
> On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 7:01 PM, Ken and Brenda Brekke
> <kb...@charter.net>wrote:
>
> > Mike,
> > Any suggestions on how to do it?
> > Thanks,
> > Ken
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org]
> > On
> > Behalf Of Mike Stitt
> > Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 5:04 PM
> > To: Antique Phonograph List
> > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Victor R
> >
> > It is not a hard finish to replicate and can be fun to do.
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Phono-L mailing list
> > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
> >
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