South Asia Citizens Wire - Dispatch #2 | 29 Dec., 2004 via: www.sacw.net
[1] Kashmir-India-Pakistan: On the Other Side of Line of Control (Bashir Manzar)
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Kashmir Images (Srinagar, Kashmir)
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF LoC Bashir Manzar
Besides food, dress and lingo, people on both sides of LoC [Line of Control] and border share their miseries and sufferings as much as India and Pakistan share other facets of history and culture. Neither airs, nor water, soil or the children of the soil are different on either side. Why then this 'us' and 'them'? Take a trip across the boundaries and borders and LoC with Bashir Manzar and evolve your own answers. The author recently visited Pakistan and Pakistan Administered Kashmir as part of a South Asian Free Media Association (SAFMA) delegation:
I have not watched Sunny Deol's Gadhar but have heard the song 'Rab Jane, Kab Guzra, Amritsar, Lahore Aaya; Main Uthe Dil Chod Aaya' umpteenth times while moving on Srinagar streets. Have never had any interest in the song but while driving from Wagah to Lahore, trust me, this was the song that kept ringing in my mind; don't know why, but couldn't help but think about it.
Amritsar and Lahore are so close - geographically, socially, linguistically and culturally that Rab Jane Kab Guzra Amritsar, Lahore AayaŠ, I too didn't know!
When you visit some other country, the first thing you encounter is sort of culture shock. But on November 19, 2003, when I as a member of South Asian Free Media Association (SAFMA) delegation, crossed over to that side of divide at Wagah, there was no shock.
On this side near Wagah, I had seen an old Sikh in Payjama-Kameez grazing his buffaloes and just minutes after crossing the Bab-e-Azadi (door of freedom), I saw a young bearded person in Shalwar-Kameez grazing his buffaloes on the other side. Same ambience, same sunlight, same fragrance in the air - everything similar, so shockingly similar! And after some one hour's drive, I was in Lahore.
Our delegation was warmly received by SAFMA friends at Wagah and the secretary general of the Association, Imtiyaz Alam was there at Hotel Avari with open arms to welcome us.
After checking in and freshening up, I, with some other friends, decided to go out to get local SIM cards for our mobile phones as BSNL was not working there. In the nearby market, it was Indian film music being played all over by the shopkeepers. Kuck Kuch Hota HaiŠ, Didi Tera Devar DewanaŠ, Doli Saja Ke RakhnaŠ - and all such songs. Had most of the people roaming around not been in Shalwar-Kameez, I would never believe that I am in another country - Pakistan.
Lahore is a warm city - full of life. People are extremely hospitable and loving. They are Punjabis, typical Punjabis, ready to lay down their lives for friends but at the same moment would not spare the enemies. And who are the enemies - given the 57 year old history of hostility and enmity - India; who else? And here were the Lahoris hugging Delhites. What is this? I questioned myself. And answers followed during my stay in this beautiful country.
I had never thought of language being a strong cementing force but within hours in Lahore, I realized that language unites people more than any other aspect of life. Punjabi speaking people from our side of the divide, including Jammuites, mingled with the people from Lahore so naturally and comfortably that after some time they were laughing together, sharing jokes, making frequent use of Punjabi slang. This Bale Bale atmosphere reached its peak during dinner. And those among us who couldn't speak Punjabi were feeling a little bit 'left-out'.
At dinner, while SAFMA officials were busy discussing organizational matters and the tour itinerary, most of the Pakistani journalists present there were keen to know about Kashmir. The chats, discussions, arguments continued till late in the night and finally the organizers called it a day as next morning they had the regional conference and a person no less than the President of Pakistan had agreed to inaugurate it.
In the morning we all were asked to be on our seats in the conference hall by 0900 hours. Every entrant was frisked thoroughly - no match boxes, no lighters, no mobiles, even ballpoint pens became an issue which finally were allowed to be taken in. Security arrangements too were identical to the ones back home.
We're told that General Musharraf would be coming anytime but this 'anytime' got stretched to around 01100 hours. Here was the man, seen in India as the architect of Kargil war, backed by US as the trusted ally in its "war against terror", ridiculed by domestic Mullahs for snubbing Jehadis and loved by media for being a good newsmaker.
With a broad smile, General saluted the participants in his typical style and moved towards the dice. He was accompanied by Governor and Chief Minister of Punjab. As soon as he sat down on his chair, secretary general SAFMA requested him to come to the other side to cut the ribbon and formally inaugurate the conference Media and Reconciliation in South Asia.
"President sir, you have come from the wrong side. You had to come from left side to cut the ribbon," Alam said and somebody from the audience quipped: "He has come from wrong side in Pakistan politics too!" I am sure General didn't hear the comment.
Imtiyaz Alam spoke at length about SAFMA activities and SAFMA's opposition to no-go zones and support for go-go zones. He talked about Pakistani journalists' visit to India and Indian Kashmir, about Sri Lanka's decision of easing visa regime for journalists of South Asia. Sri Lankan government has started on arrival visa for journalists. Alam wanted similar gesture from India and Pakistan.
While Alam was talking about SAFMA, most of the participants were eagerly waiting for Musharraf's address. And finally it was President Musharraf addressing the conference.
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When students raised anti-Pak slogans
Muzaffarabad: A few dozen students resorted to slogan-shouting at the University campus alleging that they were not being allowed to interact with visiting journalists.
Most of them were the activists of National Students Federation (NSF). The visiting journalists were shocked and surprised to hear slogans like "Pakistan Murdabad", "ISI agents Murdabad", "Ilhak Ka Jo Yaar Hai, Gaddar Hai Gaddar Hai."
Although a heavy contingent of police was rushed to the campus but they decided not to intervene as the students were spitting fire against Pakistan, its intelligence agencies and what they said "puppet government" of Azad Kashmir.
The students were displaying banners which read: "Indo Pak Go Back; Kashmir Kashmiriun Ke Hai; Na Manzoor, Na Manzoor, Taqseem Kashmir Na Manzoor."
While these students were busy chanting slogans, another group, a smaller one, assembled near the venue raising pro-Pak slogans. "Pakistan Se Rishta Kya, La Ilaha Ilal Lah, Jeevay Jeevay Pakistan, Khudmukhtari Hai Gadaree, RAW agents Murdabad, Hindustan Murdabad" - were the slogans the NSF students were countered with. And in this mayhem, journalists were driven back to the hotel.
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After welcoming the delegates, Musharraf opened Pakistan for SAFMA journalists. "You can visit any city, any area you want," said Musharraf to a thundering applause. And then he came to the real business - Indo-Pak relations and Kashmir.
Musharraf sounded bitter, nay hurt, nay disappointed (as Khurshid Kasuri put it next day). He was upset as Indian Prime Minister, Manmohan Singh, during his Kashmir visit, had reiterated that Jammu and Kashmir was an "intesgral part" of India.
"How can one expect a forward movement in the wake of such statements? If you say this, I say 'we stand by UN resolutions and demand plebiscite in Jammu and Kashmir'."
Musharraf said that he and Manmohan Singh in a joint-statement at New York had talked about discussing and exploring all options. "If I understand English, all options mean all options. Why should people feel upset?" he said.
Coming straight to his 7-point formula, General said: "This is neither a formula nor a solution. These are options to be discussed by my people. Let there be a debate and that was my intention when I discussed these points with some editors."
During his around 40-minute speech, Musharraf made it a point to address journalists from Jammu and Kashmir separately several times and also invited them to a lunch at Governor's House same day. Musharraf spoke about Indo-Pak relations and "war on terrorism" and vowed that "every terrorist would be killed."
"We've to adopt a two-pronged strategy to deal with the menace (terrorism). Eliminate the terrorists and terrorism with full might and at the same time take care of peoples' aspirations."
Musharraf's speech, between the lines, conveyed one thing very strongly: 'Hey guys! For God's sake tell India that I am a nice chap. I am moving extra miles, don't make things difficult for me.'
The same day, the atmosphere at Governor's house was relaxed and more informal. All the journalists from Jammu and Kashmir besides a few from Delhi attended the luncheon meeting. Before lunch, Musharraf had some 40-minute session (sort of press conference) with the journalists. He repeated what he had said during his speech at Avari Hotel in the morning. He didn't hide his bitterness but said he was not bitter.
"I am for peace process but it should be resolution oriented. Mere CBMs will not do," he stressed but clarified quickly: "Please don't write that I am against CBMs. I am for it but these CBMs should go in tandem with composite dialogue aimed at resolving the core issue of Kashmir."
General denied his country's involvement in the split of Hurriyat Conference. "We (Pakistan) don't manipulate the differences within Hurriyat," he said hoping that the two factions would do something for unity.
"We feel Hurriyat is the representative of Jammu and Kashmir and therefore should be involved in the dialogue process," Musharraf said. When some journalist pointed out that there were other parties, even with stronger constituencies than Hurriyat, General said: "Yes people from all shades of opinion should be part of dialogue but Hurriyat participation is a must."
The lunch was delicious. I, along with some other journalist friends shared the table with General Shoukat Sultan. A typical Fauji, tough talking guy! There was an interesting nok jhonk between him and our fellow journalist Sushant Sareen. It continued as we gulped down delicious food served by uniformed butlers.
There was a photo session with the General in the lawns of Governor House and then he left declaring that the group of journalists is free to visit any place including Northern Areas.
Back at Hotel Avari the conference continued with people coming forward with several recommendations and suggestions for making SAFMA more effective.
Evening was with famous singer Saira Naseem. She is as beautiful as her voice and would have looked more graceful had she not overdone her make-up. But still she mesmerized people present in the hall.
One Pakistani sitting in the audience even started dancing in front of the audience (next day a Pakistani newspaper published the dancing man's photograph with a caption: "An Indian journalist dances as Saira sings at Hotel Avari"). I too went to the stage and had a lovely chat with this Pakistani sparrow and realized that she is as good an orator as a singer.
Next day the conference started at 0930 hours. Pakistan Foreign Minister Khurshid Mehmood Kasoori was the chief guest. He too talked about General's proposals, CBMs, composite dialogue and more strongly on the issue of Muzaffarabad-Srinagar bus service.
Kasuri tried to brush away the impression that General Musharraf was bitter. "He is not bitter. I will say he is disappointed by the attitude of New Delhi. He is ready to move ahead and Indian attitude indicates otherwise," said Kasuri but in the same breath made it clear that he was optimistic about the peace process and despite some hiccups was sure that it would move ahead.
Kasuri hosted lunch for the delegates in the same hotel. In the post-lunch session, Imtiyaz Alam was unanimously re-elected secretary general of the SAFMA. Next day we had to leave for Islamabad on our way to Mirpur in Pakistan administered Kashmir (PaK).
Before leaving for Islamabad, we were invited to a gala lunch hosted by Mayor of Lahore (though the Mayor Sahib couldn't attend the function himself as he was busy because General was in the town). The lunch was hosted at Baradari of Bagh-e-Jinnah, (Lawrence Garden).
At two in the afternoon, around 22 of us were seen off by Imtiyaz Alam for our much-sought-after PaK visit. While Pakistanis call Indian part of Jammu and Kashmir as "Maqboza Kashmir", for Indians the area under Pak control is "Pakistan Occupied Kashmir". As the intention of the visit was reconciliation, it was decided that both the parts, during our stay there, would be referred to as LoC Ke Iss Paar Walla Ilaka and LoC Ke Uss Paar Wala Ilaka. Our group leader, Vinod Sharma (a wonderful person indeed) made it a point that only these new names are used during speeches or deliberations.
We reached Islamabad by the evening and drove straight to the Hotel Holiday Inn. This is the hotel where Hizbul Mujahideen Chief, Syed Sallahudin addressed media a few years back and called off the ceasefire declared by Abdul Majid Dar. Zee TV ran an 'exclusive' item showing a "Brigadier adjusting a chair for Sallahudin" to sit. That poor "Brigadier" still serves in that hotel as a waiter!
The first thing I did while checking in the hotel was to call Mohammed Shehzad, a local journalist who works for Kashmir Images. He was thrilled to know that finally I had reached his city (actually he was waiting for me in January during SAARC conference when I was supposed to visit Islamabad but along with two other Kashmiri journalists, was denied visa by Pakistan High Commission). He was there in the hotel within minutes. I couldn't give him much time as the schedule was very tight and we had to leave for Mirpur early in the morning. But I promised him that on my return I will visit his family.
Reached Mirpur in the evening to a warm reception by local Press Club! Unlike Srinagar, LoC Ke Uss Paar (on the other side of LoC) you have press clubs in all big and small cities. We would fumble when the journalists there would ask why we didn't have one in Srinagar. The only face saving was Jammu Press Club and its president Manu Srivastav, who too was in the delegation.
"Kashmir Ki Takseem Na Manzoor (division of Kashmir is unacceptable)" was one of the banners that were displayed on the walls of the hall where the media people had arranged the reception. They were very warm and hospitable.
Next day in Mirpur was very hectic with a lot of meetings with people cutting across ideological divides - people from Muslim Conference, Bar Association, Liberation League, JKLF, writers, poets and even the people on the streets.
We were supposed to visit Mangla before returning to Islamabad but it was canceled at the last moment. Reason: some Chinese delegation was visiting the dam, we're told.We met some old stalwarts of JKLF in Mirpur. Some of them have done a lot of work on Maqbool Bhat's life. Both JKLFs (Yasin's and Khan's) have their presence in Mirpur besides Justice Majid Malik's Liberation League that too advocates Independent Kashmir.
Justice Malik is the person who while in service, had given a landmark decision saying Northern Areas (Gilgit-Baltistan) were parts of "Azad Jammu and Kashmir" and not Pakistan. However, the decision was then reversed by the higher court.
Over all the Mirpur visit was an eye-opener. I had never thought that 'independence' sentiment could be so strong in this area. But it was!
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Mirpur stands for independence
Mirpur: Overwhelming majority of Mirpuris stand for an Independent Jammu and Kashmir. They are not happy with Pakistan. Wherever we went, we saw 'Khudmukhtari' (pro-independence) banners.
This part of PaK is inhabited by Paharis and Gujjars. There is some sort of tension between the two communities. Although the tension is not much visible but one can smell it in the air while chatting with people here.
People have a lot of grievances against Pakistan. Mangla Dam displacement is one among those grievances.
"We produce power and Pakistan reaps the fruits," is a common grievance. People want bigger share in power production which seems not coming, at least in near future.
Another crisis: Mirpuris are rich. They have money, lots of money. But they have no means to invest the same. "The money is blocked in banks and Pakistan earns on our money. Had we some scope of industrialization, we would invest and the rotation of money would take the area towards prosperity," feel people.
Most of the people we encountered advocated reunification and complete independence of Jammu and Kashmir (as it existed before 1947). Although there are some voices for accession to Pakistan too, these are very feeble.
"If you say integral part, then we go back to UN resolutions and plebescite.
It takes two to tango. "
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Next day we reached back Islamabad in the evening. Checked in in the same Holiday Inn hotel. I called Shehzad. He was there within an hour and we chatted till late. We're invited by Pakistan Peoples Party (PPP) for dinner. Shehzad had his car with him and thus I and Zaffar Meraj stayed back with Shehzad in the hotel for a while with the promise that he would then drop us at the dinner venue.
The venue was a beautiful place. A hill station within Islamabad - Daman-e-Koh. While we were driving up the Koh (mountain), it resembled a drive from Tangmarg to Gulmarg. The slope is steeper. At the top of the hillock is a beautiful restaurant owned by a beautiful lady, Farzana Raja, the spokesperson of PPP. She was our host.
Dinner was in the open and as there was some chill in the air, the hosts had lit small iron stoves all over. From the venue, we could look at Islamabad and Rawalpindi. It was a lovely dinner indeed. All of us enjoyed and relaxed as it was something worth after such a tight schedule. It was for the first time that I saw Tahir Mohiudin relaxed and happy as he was engrossed in some interaction with Farzana. Otherwise Tahir was too tired of the hectic schedule!
First person I met in the morning next day was Dr Walid. I knew him from the days he was in Srinagar associated with Shiekh Aziz's Peoples League. It took me few moments to recognize him. It was a lovely reunion. We chatted for sometime. He is presently in Geelani's Hurriyat in Pakistan
Next day we went to Parliament House and had a detailed meeting and then lunch with members and head of Parliamentary Committee on Kashmir. The head, Hamid Nasir Chatta briefed about the Committee's stance over Kashmir - implementation of UN resolutions, plebiscite, etc. He also stressed inclusion of Kashmiri leaders in the dialogue process.
The attraction in the meeting was grand daughter of Mohammad Din Fauq, renowned Kashmiri historian. She too is a parliamentarian and loves Kashmir. She wants to visit Kashmir but is not sure whether she will be allowed at some stage.
I, Zaffar and Tahir ducked the lunch half way, rushed out and hired a cab for Rawalpindi. Roamed for few hours in Rawalpindi markets; Zaffar and Tahir did some shopping and we hired another cab to our Islamabad hotel.
Dinner was with Mushahid Hussain of PML(Q). I had promised Shehzad that I will have dinner with his family and therefore skipped Mushahid's dinner (skipping was not so easy as our group leader Vinod Sharma had sharp eyes like seasoned shepherd who could find a sheep missing in the flock of hundreds; however, I too proved an intelligent sheep!).
Shehzad drove me to his home. There I met his wife and two lovely kids. I honestly felt at home there. They had decided to go out for the dinner. We went to a lovely place, Pearl (I was told that this restaurant used to be favourite of General Musharraf and he would frequently visit it before the attack). Shehzad also showed me the spot, near a filling station, where Musharraf was attacked.
It was the first apolitical dinner. We talked about ourselves. How desperate sometimes one is to talk very simple things! And that is what we did.
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We're ready to fight
Gilgit: While roaming around in Gilgit market, I along with Zaffar and Tahir visited a cosmetic shop (I had to buy shampoo). A young stout man behind the counter was thrilled to know that we were from "Maqbooza Kashmir".
He introduced himself as launching chief of Hizbul Mujahideen. Prior to General Musharraf's crackdown on militant groups, this young man had been sending boys to Indian Kashmir for Jehad.
"The activities have been suspended for the time being. Once we get a green signal, we will be launching the operation," he said. He is very keen to visit Kashmir himself - not as a tourist but as a Mujahid.
"Indian Fouj is killing our people there and raping our sisters. Jehad will continue till these cruel forces are dragged out of the Pak Sarzameen of Kashmir," he said.
He disclosed that Hizb chief Syed Sallahudin had been visiting the area earlier and he himself had several meetings with him.
This young man is a fan of Syed Ali Shah Geelani. "Do you know him; have you ever met him; how is his health now?" where some of his curious questions.
In Chilas, where we stopped on our way back to Rawalpindi for lunch, we met another young man. He too was a militant and eager to cross over to our Kashmir for Jehad.
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After dropping family at his place, Shahzad drove me to the hotel and accompanied me upstairs to my room. We're surprised to see Hizbul Mujahideen spokesman Salim Hashmi with another guy standing outside my room (I had seen him in the morning alongwith Dr Walid). He told me that he had been waiting for me and was now ready to leave.
Shehzad rested for a while in my room and then left. I chatted with Hashmi for some one hour. Although I was feeling too sleepy but courtesy demanded to be as friendly as possible and I think I did so. Our discussion revolved around an email war between us some years back when he sent me an email accusing that my newspaper was "anti-movement" as it accommodated views and news that, he thought, were not in accordance with the "spirit of freedom".
In a very cordial manner, I tried to convey to him that I need not a certificate from anyone and that I was answerable to my own conscience alone. Once I feel ashamed before my conscience for anything that appears in my newspaper, I will shut down the whole affair.
Hashmi wanted to tell me that I should have not felt upset over his remarks. "I heard something and I straightaway conveyed it to you. Had I been a hypocrite, I would have never shared it with you," he said and sounded logical in his argument.
While we were discussing Kashmir and the situation, I got a phone call from Tahir. "Here is someone, who wants to talk to you," Tahir said and handed over the phone to that someone. It was Yousuf Naseem of Hurriyat Conference (Mirwaiz). He too wanted to have a chat with me. Hashmi left and Nasim was in.
Nasim was accompanied by another person (representative of Maulana Abbas Ansari). We talked for some time and I could find out that this faction of Hurriyat is no more untouchable in Pakistan now.
Although the duo was very cautious while discussing the issue, I could make out that Mirwaiz's meeting with President Musharraf at Amsterdam has got this faction back in good books of Pak establishment and Geelani was no more the sole darling.
Next morning, we left for Muzaffarabad. Although the entire team was too tired but the very excitement of visiting Muzaffarabad refreshed us. We left Islamabad in two mini-buses and halted at famous hill station Murrie for a while. It looked like our Patni Top. We roamed around but just in the market and had some tea.
The road was good but the zig-zag made several colleagues fall ill. But over all we enjoyed the drive and with the driver's record player putting into the air Indian film music, we would sometimes feel that we were traveling on Srinagar-Jammu road (to be honest, this road was better).
When we reached Kohala Bridge (here Pakistan ends and the territory of Pakistan part of Kashmir begins), the excitement was at its peak. We stopped for a while to take some pictures and to make the moment a memorable one. Our delay enraged one of our Pakistani hosts who came running and snubbed the driver: "Follow our vehicle and don't stop."
As we crossed the bridge and entered what Pakistan calls "Azad Jammu and Kashmir" and India describes as "Pak Occupied Kashmir", first thing we encountered was a group of JKLF (Yasin) supporters with banners in their hands advocating independence and saluting Yasin Malik.
The group, headed by Mir Dawood, showered flower petals on us and offered sweets (Dawood interestingly turned out to be a neighbour of mine. I recognized him within a second but he took some time).
[Box:]
When a Kotli youth created furor
Mirpur: It was a media interaction. Local journalists were talking about the freedom of media and expression in that part of Kashmir and comparing it with that of Indian part of Kashmir.
The hall was jam-packed. Some visiting journalist raised the issue that how free was the media in Pakistan part of Kashmir. A Mirpuri journalist said it was free and there was no pressure from any government, local or federal.
A tall young boy, standing at the end of the hall yelled: "Who says press is free here. It is not. If you support the ideology of independence, you are not even given the registration for a newspaper."
He went on: "Yahan Azadi Ki Baat Karne Waloun Ko Tolerate Nahin Kiya Jata Ab Agar Koi India Ki Baat Kare, Usse Tu Mar He Daingay (those talking of independence are not being tolerated here and if someone talks of India, he would be simply killed)".
His remarks created furor in the hall. Some people tried to snub him; he reacted and to avoid a scuffle he was literally dragged out of the hall. But he had done it - become the media attraction. Visiting journalists followed him and recorded him.
The boy is from Kotli, actively involved with JKLF (Amanullah Khan). He wants to bring out a newspaper but was denied the registration because he doesn't subscribe to the idea of acceding to Pakistan.
"You are more free than we are," he told me, adding: "Geelani Danke Ki Chout Pe Kehta Hai Ki Woh Pakistani Hai Aur Hindustan Na Sirf Usko Bardasht Karta Hai Balki Uss Ke Elaj Par Bhi Sarkari Raqoomat Kharach Ki Jate Hain. Yahan Tu Azadi Ki Baat Karna Tak Jurm Hai."
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Historic Shahi Masjid of Lahore and a Gurdwara stand close to each other near Lahore Qilla, giving a message of communal harmony and universal oneness.
Amid slogan-shouting by JKLF cadres, I and Dawood hugged and he asked unending questions about his family, friends, area, etc.
The visible change in atmosphere was noticed by Tahir Mohiuddin who had been to this side in 1999. He said those days all the walls around were painted with slogans of different militant outfits and one could see militants roaming around all over with arms. But now, it was different. We found only a few slogans like "Khudmukhtari Jaan Se Pyari" or its counter-slogan "Khudmukhtari Hai Gaddari".
No militant is seen roaming on roads. Although some camps still exist, we're told, but these are away from the city and the militants are not allowed to leave their camps.
Three days in Muzaffarabad were memorable - a life-time experience. We met almost everyone who happens to be someone in that Kashmir.
Muzaffarabad is the capital of Pakistan administered Kashmir (PaK). Spread over an area of 6117 Sq. Kms, district Muzaffarabad has a population of 0.724 million. PaK has seven districts, Muzaffarabad being the biggest both population- as well as area-wise. Population-wise Kotli is the second with 0.558 million followed by Poonch (0.403), Bagh (0.395), Mirpur (0.323), Bhimber (0.297) and Sudhanti (0.214).
In Muzaffarabad anti-India sentiments are very strong but at the same moment most of the people are looking toward Indo-Pak peace process with certain degree of hope and optimism.
During our three-day stay in Muzaffarabad, we had meetings with Bar Association, citizens, journalists, politicians, social activists, migrants, students and people from al shades of opinion. JKLF groups, both Malik's and Khan's, made it a point to make there presence felt everywhere.
Except the people in government and a few local politicians, nobody talked of Kashmir's accession with Pakistan. That doesn't mean there are no supporters of this theory. Unlike Mirpur, Muzaffarabad has a strong constituency for Pakistan and unlike Mirpur, which feels closer to Jammu, Muzaffarabad feels more close to Kashmir Valley.
Overall people favour Indo-Pak friendship but at the same time they want a solution to Kashmir tangle that satisfies the aspirations of the people. Musharraf is being viewed as a man with will and people think that he has the capacity to strike a deal with India. But President of "Azad Jammu and Kashmir" Sardar Anwar Khan doesn't see any point in friendship with India. "India is a neighbour. It can't be a friend," he says.
Amongst the politicians, Sardar Qayoom Khan sounded more reconciliatory. He supports General Musharaf's proposal as a right step to generate a debate so that something acceptable to all is evolved. Sardar Qayoom is convinced that a lasting solution to Kashmir can't be reached at so quickly and suggests some interim solution with a condition that people are told that this is the interim solution and not the final one.
Besides opening of routes between two parts of Kashmir, Qayoom advocates creation of a 'no military zone' along LoC where people from either side can come and meet their relatives without any hassles.
Meeting with students at University campus was interesting but was marred by the demonstrations by some students who alleged they were not allowed to participate in the debate.
Students were very vocal about alleged human rights violations in Indian side of Kashmir and were critical of Indian media. They were of the view that media in Kashmir was not free and thus couldn't report the "ugly face" of India.
The argument was countered by Vinod Sharma, Salim Pandit and Shujat Bukhari. While Vinod said that when Pakistan talks of human rights violations in Kashmir, it uses the data that it gets from Indian newspapers; Shujat and Salim asked the students that how would they have known about Handwara rape case had Kashmir media not reported it.
The interaction had to be cut short as some students created furor by shouting slogans and a student yelled that 50 percent people in the auditorium were not students or teachers but "ISI agents".
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Celebrating ceasefire
Chakothi: Our visit to LoC coincided with the anniversary of ceasefire along LoC and borders and the people of Chakoti and Chinari were celebrating the event.
"It is for that first time that we have seen peace. We have been able to grow our crops and our children could go to schools," said an elderly person, Khadim Hussain at Chakothi.
He said that had ceasefire not been in operation, the visiting journalists would not have seen people doing routine business and children playing and studying.
"When there was no ceasefire, these areas would look like ghost places with no humans or animals visible. Most of the people would shift to safer places and those who had no place to go would die," said a young man of the area, Farooq.
Recalling the nightmarish experiences people said that shells from Indian side would continue raining over these areas unabated.
The High School at Chakothi is the live example of the devastation. Although it has now been made operational, but it still has hundreds of scars of Indo-Pak hostility written on its walls and the roof-top.
It was in this backdrop that people were distributing sweets on the anniversary of the ceasefire and were praying for its continuance and permanence.
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Muzaffarabad looks beautiful during night. Our hotel was located at Dumail. It is the place where river Jehlum and river Neelam (Kishan Ganga) meet. Although my room had the boring view of the market, I would go to Sushant's room from where the Sangam of the rivers looked as if 'out of this world'.
Roads are good and power supply too is better by all standards. The much talked about Srina-gar-Muzaffarabad road is perfectly fine except a small patch of some five kilom-etres. That too is mortorable and all sorts of vehicles can move on it but it has not yet been black-topped. The work on the road is going on to make it wider. Though the authorities say this is the routine work, people connect it with the hope of opening of the road.
We drove till last point under Pakistan's control - Chakothi. General Shoukat Sultan joined us there and briefed about the ceasefire and other related issues. We could see Indian soldiers, who waved vigorously (we thought they were knowing about our visit). The waving from both sides continued for some time as General spoke at length.
Road from that side is in perfect usable condition except the bridge that has not seen any human feet touching it from last almost 50 years. This bridge, which we could see from a distance, connects two Kashmirs and is in a dilapidated condition.
"If the road is to be opened, it will not take more than 24 hours to make the bridge," disclosed the General.
The mile stone at Chakothi reading: Uri 10 KM; Baramula 51 KM; Srinagar 121 KM did something to all the Kashmiri journalists from within. How crude are the realities - you have just a ten-minute drive to reach your side of Kashmir but you can't. Instead, you have to travel hundreds of miles back to Lahore and then cross Wagah, and then travel another hundreds of miles to reach your part of Kashmir. Injustice! Isn't it?
I noticed a very strange thing in that part of Kashmir - the desire for opening of the roads between two Kashmirs is stronger there than it is in my part of Kashmir. As the talk of opening of roads has started making rounds, people in Pakistani Kashmir, especially elders have started feeling nostalgic.
Yousuf Jameel visited a Kashmiri family in Muzaffarabad. He said that the head of the family has turned virtually mad. Every morning he tells his wife to pack his clothes as he will leave for Kashmir through Muzaffarabad-Srinagar road.
On our last day in Muzaffarabad, a cultural programme was organized by the Information Department there. An interesting 15-minute play was staged with three characters. It was an old father and a young daughter with their luggage waiting for the bus. They waited from morning till evening and no bus turned up. Another young man who was watching the duo sitting impatiently there asks them which bus they were waiting for. "Bus to Srinagar," replied the old man. And the young man laughs at him. "It is not coming. But some journalists from India and Indian Kashmir are in the town. You can send your message to Srinagar through their group leader Vinod Sharma!" the young man said.
The play was so touching that it brought tears to all the eyes and Vinod Sharma went to the stage promising that he will carry their message!
Early next morning (around 0530 hours) we left Muzaffarabad for Islamabad airport. As the weather was kind enough, an old Folker took us to Gilgit. It was a wonderful flying - very identical to the air travel to Ladakh in our part. We flew over gorgeous mountains - K2 and others.
Around 1300 hours we landed at sunny Gilgat airport. Besides the breathtaking beauty of the area, first thing that we encountered was a group of JKLF activists with banners in hands, shouting slogans in favour of Independent Kashmir. They were standing outside airport building. All of them were from Amanullah Khan's JKLF.
We were straightaway driven to a PTDC (Pakistan Tourism Development) hotel, very near to the airport. There we checked in and had our lunch. And in the meantime people from all walks of life started flooding the hotel.
Redefined as Northern Areas, Gilgit is presently under the direct control of Islamabad but still it has not been given the status of a full-fledged province. It is ruled directly by Pakistan through its Chief Executive, who is stationed at Islamabad. Although, on paper, the Deputy Chief Executive, who stays in Gilgit is the ruling authority, but practically orders flow from federal government.
Northern Areas are spread over 72,496 Kilometers with a population of some 869,997. It is divided into six districts (earlier only five; Astoor district has been created recently).
[Box]
Please take us back!
Muzaffarabad: Some 700 odd youth are roaming around in Muzaffarabad with nothing to do. Their condition is pathetic. They are all from Kashmir Valley. They want to come back. But how?
These are the youth who crossed over to this part to seek arms training and go back to wage Jihad against India. "But our visit to this part was an eye-opener. It is no Jihad but a commercial game where leaders cash in on the sufferings of Kashmi-ris," said a young boy from Rafiabad.
These boys disassociated from their respective groups (Tanzeems) and decided not to be part of militancy and for that they are paying the price.
"Those who are in Tanze-ems are enjoying life. They get everything - food, money, places to live. And also those who migrated to this part fr-om border area are comfortable. They get Rs 750 per head per month. Govt. has construc ted hutments for them. They have been provided electricity and water and have separate schools. But we are the worst lot. We're neither Mujah ids nor Migrants and therefore nobody cares for us," said another person who hails fr om a Bandipore village. His ap ple orchards in Kashmir wou ld give him a minimum of Rs 3 lakhs per year and in Muzaffa rabad he is selling fruit on a raidee (wheel cart) on streets.
"I have to play hide and seek with police. Though I pay my Hafta regularly but still they are after my life," he said.
These youth, they alleged were being hounded by ISI and local intelligence people. "They did everything that we should not get in touch with you but we managed and we know what we have to face once you leave," said a 47-year-old person from Hand-wara. He too had crossed over in 1998, but has now decided to say good bye to arms.
"More than 400 boys are locked up in Qilla interrogation centre. They are amongst us who want to go back but not with arms. Life has become hell for us. We have turned into Dhobi Ke Kuttay. Please help us," said another boy from Khanyar area.
"When we tell these things to our Tanzeem people, they say they will allow us to cross but with arms only. And that is what we don't want," said this boy.
"Tell India to allow us to come back. We're even ready to face the interrogation but can't tolerate the humiliation here anymore," said one of the boys.
He said that even the local people are not friendly toward them. But the locals have their own stories to tell.
"They came here as Muja hids. Hum Ne Inhain Aank hon Pe Bithaya. And now they wander here and there troubling us," said an STD booth owner, in the vicinity of the Hotel Sangam, where we're staying. The STD man accused these Kashmiri boys of indulging in eve-teasing, pick-pocketing and other such evils, the allegations refuted by the boys.
[Box ends]
Sgr-M'bad road only
Why?
Mirpur: In Mirpur there is a strong desire for opening of roads between two Kashmirs. But Mirpuris are upset as they see people talking about Srinagar-Muza-ffarabad road only.
Majority of the divided families live in Mirpur, they argue and advocate opening of Mirpur-Naushehra and Rawlakote-Poonch roads too.
"People have to rise above Srinagar-centric attitude. Jammu and Kashmir is not Srinagar alone. You have to think about the aspirations of the people living in other areas too," we were told.
Mirpuris feel much closer to Jammu on the other side of LoC both linguistically and culturally. Although they don't say it very candidly, they don't like Srinagar's hegemony.
[Box]
APNA fights with police
Muzaffarabad: The leaders of All Parties National Alliance had a tough time at our hotel as they wanted to meet the visiting journalists but police would not allow them.
They were not allowed inside the hotel but after a few hours of verbal brawl with the police; they managed to reach the hotel lobby but where not allowed to go into the rooms. Finally the journalists themselves got down to the lobby to interact with them.
They were upset and angry that their meeting, which they claimed was in the earlier itinerary, was dropped. They accused that the tour was conducted by Pakistan agencies and therefore nationalists were being dropped out. However, it was made clear to them that as the delegation was visiting Gilgit too, so there programme has been fixed there.
APNA is a forum of almost all national and pro-unification and pro-independence groups. This group counters Pakistan claim over Northern Areas.
[Box ends]
Although the sentiments of independence are strong here too, but people seem more realistic. They think independence is not achievable and therefore want to live as part of Pakistan. But their strong demand is that Pakistan recognizes these areas as one of its provinces and gives all the democratic and economic rights to them as it has given to its own people. There is a strong urge for self-rule and people don't like to be governed from Islamabad.
Sectarian divide is sharp but both Shias and Sunnis are of the opinion that this divide is being created by Pakistani agencies. "Pakistan knows that once we are united, we will fight for our rights and therefore uses some so-called leaders from both the communities to instigate hatred," said most of the people.
The worst worry these people have is that of State Subject. While in Indian Kashmir and Pakistani Kashmir, the State Subject law is intact and no outsiders can buy properties, it is not the same in Northern Areas.
"Rich people of Pakistan are buying land here and a time will come when we'll be in minority," said a Balwaristan movement activist. A huge market in Gilgit is owned by the Pakistan Army. It was closed on that day as it was a Sunday, but people said that it was a beautiful market.
We had a series of meetings in Gilgit and met the Councilors too who had got elected in a recent election (most of the people in Northern Areas doesn't recognize these councilors as genuine representatives). People think of reunification of Jammu and Kashmir too but at the same time are very apprehensive about Srinagar's domination. Pertinent to mention that prior to 1947, Gilgit was under direct control of Srinagar and the people don't have pleasant memories of the days. The sentiments of the people regarding 'Srinagar monopoly' are identical with those in our part of Ladakh.
Next morning was disappointing. We're told that due to bad weather, the flight couldn't come and therefore we had to travel all the way by bus. All the journalists were upset. We're so tired that none of us would appreciate a road travel. Nidhi Razdan was ill but all including her had no other option.
Deciding to accept the fate as it comes, we resolved to enjoy the drive. And it was worth it. The landscape was breathtakingly beautiful. Colour of mountains and height and depth of the terrain too was heavenly. We halted at a view point, a few Kilometres from Gilgit. Here River Gilgit and Indus meet and the spot also provides a wonderful feast to ones eyes as three gigantic mountain ranges - Hindukush, Karakoram, Himalaya meet here.
We had our lunch at Chilas. The hotel was really good and food wonderful. We had to rest there for some two hours as the bus we were traveling in had some problem. During our stay we came to know that this area is virtually controlled by fanatic Muslim groups. Girls are not allowed to go to schools and the only cinema hall there was burnt down by some group a few years back. We saw some kids playing on the roadside and the poverty was visible on their faces.
Chilas is a small place and our two-hour stay came as a boon to some shopkeepers selling Salajeet. Salajeet is some sort of drug which people say cures arthritis and other orthopedic ailments. A myth about the drug having aphrodisiac properties is also very popular as a Pakistani journalist put it: "It is the desi version of Viagra." Everybody from our group was purchasing Salajeet but at the same time giving very stupid kind of explanations. While some said they were getting the drug for wife's back problems, some suggested their ailing uncles as the reciepients of the 'wonder drug'. It became a kind of joke and we laughed all the way.
Another joke was about Hunza water. Hunza is an area in Gilgit and Hunza water meant all types of alcoholic drinks. Whenever somebody would be offered mineral water, he would ask: "Is it plain water or Hunza water?"
[Box]
Hurriyat factions are not representative
Muzaffarabad/Mirpur: Both in Muzaffarabad and Mir-pur people in general challenged the representative character of both factions of the All Parties Hurriyat Conference, two conglomerates of various separatists forums.
"These Hurriyat's are not representative. They are Valley-specific and don't give a damn to people of Jammu, Rajouri, Poo-nch, Ladakh or the area under Pakistan's control." This statement was made by several people.
A retired professor (female) in Muzaffarabad went to the extent of saying about the people Hurriyats have in Pakistani part of Kashmir: "Unka Kirdaar Dagdaar Hai."
[Box ends]
Our bus came to a halt so me 200 Kms from Gilgit. It was raining and already dark. A rock had fallen in the middle of the road and the traffic had come to a halt. We were told that no road clearance party would come and if we cou ldn't do anything, we would have to stay there for the wh ole night. All our people and the drivers of other vehicles tried to do something. It was difficult. There were no pro per tools to handle the rock. But people continued trying. Sant Kumar was the one from our group who really worked hard and finally when the rock was removed after some one-and-a-half hour's toil, Sant was received back in the bus amid clapping.
We reached Rawalpindi around 0630 next morning. Tired like dogs, we fell in our rooms like logs; but had to be ready again by 0900 hours. It was tough but we did it with the excitement that we would be leaving for Lahore and could relax there.
In the morning Prof Ash raf Saraf had come to see us. Saraf was bitter about Geel ani's confrontational attitude. Other people who visited us were Rafiq Dar and Altaf Qadri of JKLF. Unlike the JKLF boys in Muzaffarabad, who really seem living a tough life, these two were much relaxed and neatly dressed. Their very appearance was enough to convey that they are living comfortable lives.
Our departure got delayed as Mustanzar Javed who was to see us off to Lahore, was stuck somewhere. We finally left around 1330 hours. We took the famous motorway, the one laid during Nawaz Sharief's tenure. It is really beautiful and perfectly maintained. It has good and comfortable junk-food restaurants and hotels all over the way. While driving to Lahore from Islamabad, you pass through Salt Mountains too. It is really a wonderful drive.
We reached Lahore by the evening and as the Hotel Avari was already full, we're taken to two guest houses in Liberty area. We decided to go out for a while to do some shopping but were told by the hosts to be back by 10.30 o' clock. I and Zaffar Meraj went to Liberty market. It is one of the posh markets of Lahore. Most of the shoppers you find during nights are women. Lahore is an open city and you find the women on streets fashionably fashionable.
We did some shopping, had some juice, ate some snacks and by 11:00 in the night were back in our guest house. Imtiyaz Alam and others were there. The party had already started and the only thing missing was that the dancer who had to perform was yet to come. After sometime she reached there with her crew and it was dancing almost all the night. The music played was - guess - Indian, what else.
She was a wonderful dancer. Although my colleagues were seeing her dance for the first time, I had already enjoyed her dance before leaving for Pakistani Kashmir. During our earlier three-day stay in Lahore, a friend took me to another friend's farm-house, where we watched her dance.
It was a memorable night. I too tried my steps after I think some 20 years. Hold your breath, I did well. Tahir really enjoyed the party and all his fatigue of travel and hectic schedule vanished.
Around 3:00 in the morning, we called it a day and went to sleep. Next day Lahore Press Club had organized a see-off party. After eating our lunch, we left for Wagah and by 5:00 in the evening were back in Amritsar.
A memorable visit it was. Thanks to SAFMA that it provided us a chance to visit Pakistan and Kashmir there. We are back with lots of sweet memories and with fresh hopes and optimism.
People of Pakistan are no longer hostage to the bitter memories of 1947, '65 or '71. Yes, some sections may be, but majority wants to move ahead. They see no reason in remaining hostile to India. Their message is what Anupam Kher says in the last scene of Veer-Zara: "We long er need to scratch the woun ds of history. Our new gener ation wants to rise above the se things. They want peace, love and reconciliation, and tomorrow belong to them."
Free movement of people is something that would help India and Pakistan come closer. Let people from either side be allowed to visit each other, explore by themselves and feel the difference. This trend will undoubtedly change the whole politics of the sub-continent.
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Buzz on the perils of fundamentalist politics, on matters of peace and democratisation in South Asia. SACW is an independent & non-profit citizens wire service run since 1998 by South Asia Citizens Web: www.sacw.net/
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