Re: *Potential Spam* RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

2010-02-12 Thread Harold J. Larsen

Bill,

Unfortunately, I have been unable to find any commercial source for the 
Garden Dig-It unit your link describes.  I suspect it is no longer on 
the market.  That would argue in favor of a home manufacture approach 
to obtaining one.


Years ago, when we were doing pre-plant soil fumigation for orchard 
replant problem control, we made soil probes using standard pipe and 
fittings.  We used 3/4 or 1 pipe, a threaded T for the input and 90 
o output w/ a short 6 stub (capped) on the far side of the T to 
provide an additional hand access point to press the probe down into the 
ground.  The long (business) end of the probe was a 42 length of pipe 
that was screwed into the T.  The bottom end of the long pipe had a 2 
- 3 length bolt w/ the threads ground off, just the right diameter to 
fit inside the long pipe and the bolt head built up to a tapered 
round-pointed tip to enable penetration into the soil.  The bolt had an 
elongated oval slot (~0.5 length x 1/8 width) cut through the shank 
starting at about 1 above the bolt head; then a single 1/8+ diam. hole 
was drilled through the bottom of the long pipe at ~1 above the bottom 
end, the modified bolt inserted into the pipe and turned so that the 
holes lined up, and a 1/8 diam brass rod pushed through the holes (to 
allow the end bolt assembly to slide back against the bottom of the pipe 
to seal it when pushed into the ground and to allow the bolt to slide 
out from the pipe to open the pipe end when jerked back up after the 
probe had reached the desired depth for fumigant application -- allowing 
the fumigant to disperse from around the bolt shank in the pipe into the 
surrounding soil).  We even added a brass ball-valve on the inlet side 
to allow us to shut off the fumigant once we finished the injection so 
the fumigant wasn't spewing out of the tip under pressure as we pulled 
the probe out of the ground.   The root-needle fertilizer injector units 
available from the garden centers have a very similar design (but much 
smaller and no effective shutoff valve) that allows the water pressure 
to drill the probe's path down into the root zone.


I do have photos ( diagrams) - somewhere in my computer  35mm slide 
collection - of the probes we made.  The question would be how to get 
them on the web.  I'm pretty unskilled at that aspect of webpages -- I 
suppose I could send them to Jon Clement and he could post them and 
provide a link.  If there is interest in that, I will look for them.


My point is that the probe you are talking about for  hydro-drilling 
could easily be made in a similar manner.  The difference would be in 
the pipe bottom structure.  Instead of being a sliding tip, one might 
find a solid tip with a central hole would work better???  One could 
simply plug the pipe end with a piece of tight-fitting rod w/ a central 
hole drilled in it to provide an outlet for the water.  I suspect one 
would need to have some lateral outward  downward-angled holes to 
facilitate a lateral drilling function.


Any thoughts on how the bottom of the probe/drill should be designed for 
maximum efficacy / drilling efficiency?  The photo in your link looks to 
have a straight-shot stream coming out of the probe bottom end.


Harold L.

--
Dr. Harold Larsen
Res. Pathologist  Ext. Fruit Dis. Specialist
Colo. St. Univ., WCRC - Orchard Mesa
3168  B  1/2  Road
Grand Junction, CO  81503-9621
Ph:  (970) 434-3264, x-205
FAX:  (970) 434-1035
EMail:  harold.lar...@colostate.edu


On 2/12/2010 8:30 AM, Fleming, William wrote:


Wish I could be provide pictures but my drill is 600 miles and a 
decade away.


Better yet I found a similar device that's very economical [weblink 
deleted - HL].


It doesn't have a big tip like mine did but says it will bore an 8 hole.

I used a 400 gallon air blast sprayer, fan turned off, pressure set at 
80 psi. The hose to the drill needs to be at least ¾, preferably 
heavy duty enough to drag around rough ground.


With a 100' hose I could drill holes 5-6 rows on either side of the 
sprayer before it needed to be moved. 75-100 holes could be drilled 
per 400 gallon tank.


The way you form a pipe into a point is to first cut a series of 
touching triangles out of one end. You end up with a jagged edge that 
looks like a crown. Then just hammer the triangles inward so the edges 
and points touch, weld together.


**/Bill Fleming/**

**/Montana// State University/**

**/Western Ag Research Center/**

**/580 Quast Ln/**

**/Corvallis//, MT 59828/**

**/(406)961-3025/**





Apple-Crop: Re: a question about bud terminology

2010-01-17 Thread Harold J. Larsen
The discussion about TRV has been most interesting, but I have another 
question about bud terminology.


Within the Rose family, we have crops that have differing types of 
flower-containing buds:
  - a single flower, no shoots -- Apricot, peach, and nectarine (plus 
some individual buds on plum)
  - multiple flowers, no shoots -- sweet  tart cherry (+ other 
cherries), plums (most buds)

  - multiple flowers + shoot initial -- apples  pears

The first category, I believe, is termed a simple bud.
The third category, I believe, is a type of compound bud termed a mixed 
bud


But what is the plant anatomical / horticultural term  for the second 
category?  I had viewed it as a compound bud because of the multiple 
flower initials, but the typical example used for a compound bud is 
grape (Vitaceae) which has a primary, secondary, and tertiary bud all 
enclosed within the bud scales at each node.  I have NOT been able to 
find any source of reference with a term for the cherry and plum type of 
complex bud.


Any ideas / references out there???  I have been putting together an 
Extension document on evaluating cold injury damage to fruit buds and 
the evaluation process differs between the bud types.  So use of some 
terms would be helpful in shortening it.  The intent is to have it both 
in printed form and as a PDF document on the web.  So I'd really like to 
have the terminology to be correct!


Thanks much!

Harold L.

--
Dr. Harold Larsen, Interim Manager - WCRC
Res. Pathologist  Ext. Fruit Dis. Specialist
Colo. St. Univ., WCRC - Orchard Mesa
3168  B  1/2  Road
Grand Junction, CO  81503-9621
Ph:  (970) 434-3264, x-205
FAX:  (970) 434-1035
EMail:  harold.lar...@colostate.edu 






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Re: Apple-Crop: Apple maggot in plums

2009-08-31 Thread Harold J. Larsen

Lorraine,

You might have a different species of Rhagoletes fruit fly instead of 
the apple maggot species. You might be able to obtain adult flies to ID 
by placing the infested fruit onto moist, sandy soil put a plastic bag 
in a box to allow the larvae to finish growing and then crawl out of the 
infested fruit and down into the moist soil to pupate. Once the pupae 
are formed, you can keep them in a cool room for a couple of months 
(some of our entomologist participants may have more info on specifics 
here), sieve the soil to harvest the pupae, and then store them at room 
temperature in a screened lid container to let the adult flies emerge 
from the pupae. Once you have adult flies, compare the wing patterns. 
The wing patterns for Rhagoletes species are pretty specific and 
comparison with wing patterns for the emerged adults should facilitate a 
correct ID.


Harold L.

--
Dr. Harold Larsen, Interim Manager - WCRC
Res. Pathologist  Ext. Fruit Dis. Specialist
Colo. St. Univ., WCRC - Orchard Mesa
3168  B  1/2  Road
Grand Junction, CO  81503-9621
Ph:  (970) 434-3264, x-205
FAX:  (970) 434-1035
EMail:  harold.lar...@colostate.edu 




Los, Lorraine wrote:


Hello all,

I am working with a grower with a significant apple maggot problem in 
part of his orchard. In addition to apples, maggots (fly larvae) were 
also found in plums. This is the first time I have seen this. I am 
assuming they are apple maggot. Can anyone help with the following 
questions?


1) Do any other maggots infest plums?

2) There are peaches  nectarines adjacent to this area. I have not 
seen any literature suggesting that apple maggots get into peaches  
nectarines, but want to be sure. Has anyone seen apple maggots in 
peaches or nectarines at a heavily infested site?


We’ll definitely hang AM traps in the plums next year!!

Thanks,

Lorraine

Lorraine Los

Fruit Crops IPM Coordinator

Plant Science Department, U-4067

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269-4067

(860)486-6449 (Phone)

(860)486-0682 (Fax)

lorraine@uconn.edu





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Re: Apple-Crop: deer

2009-08-03 Thread Harold J. Larsen
An interesting idea.  One would need to keep weed growth within the 
flat fence area under control so that it would be obvious to those 
animals that might be considering traversing it.  Any idea on what the 
necessary border strip width might need to be?  Raccoons probably 
wouldn't need more than 3-4 ft, but deer can jump much further than 
that.  I suspect bear likely would not be to comfortable with it either!


--
Dr. Harold Larsen, Interim Manager - WCRC
Res. Pathologist  Ext. Fruit Dis. Specialist
Colo. St. Univ., WCRC - Orchard Mesa
3168  B  1/2  Road
Grand Junction, CO  81503-9621
Ph:  (970) 434-3264, x-205
FAX:  (970) 434-1035
EMail:  harold.lar...@colostate.edu 




tcjmc...@aol.com wrote:
I am aware that large orchards and geology of where they are planted 
would play into it but has anyone tried flat fencing? We used it 
this year and it has kept out deer and raccoons. We used a combination 
of chicken wire and the plastic snow fencing. Seem they do not like 
stepping on it. At least it might be less expensive than an electric 
fence or could possibly be used in combination to reduce costs. Just a 
thought.
 
T. Curl

Fichthorn-Curl Farms
Ohio, USA
 
In a message dated 8/3/2009 10:30:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
w...@montana.edu writes:


In a sense we do treat deer the same as codling moth, if we're
smart we fence them out.
Spraying for deer doesn't really work just like fencing out
codling moth doesn't.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025


-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of rkpeng...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 6:11 PM
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: deer



-Original Message-
From: Fleming, William w...@montana.edu
To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Wed, Jul 8, 2009 7:10 pm
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: deer

At the risk of being branded by PETA as the Charles Manson of the
animal world, why do growers treat deer (a pest of their fruit
trees) differently than Codling Moth ( a pest of their fruit trees).

-Original Message-
From: Fleming, William w...@montana.edu
To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Wed, Jul 8, 2009 7:10 pm
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: deer

I was planning on a 10' electric deer fence this fall but if
Budweiser would work instead it's on sale right now.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828





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represent official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no
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represent
official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no
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the content.










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Re: Apple-Crop: Re: Pristine apple tree

2009-05-21 Thread Harold J. Larsen

Dave,

The reason for my comment was that very small, bumpy, deformed apple 
fruit can be the result of rosy apple aphid feeding on young fruit at 
early stages.  Campyloma bug feeding on young fruit also can cause 
deformed fruit.  Both are problems best addressed by entomologists 
within our audience (rather than me, a plant pathologist).  However, the 
restriction of the symptoms to just the Pristine with the Sundance 
apples immediately adjacent being unaffected would argue against an 
insect cause, I would think.


Harold L.

--
Dr. Harold Larsen, Interim Manager - WCRC
Res. Pathologist  Ext. Fruit Dis. Specialist
Colo. St. Univ., WCRC - Orchard Mesa
3168  B  1/2  Road
Grand Junction, CO  81503-9621
Ph:  (970) 434-3264, x-205
FAX:  (970) 434-1035
EMail:  harold.lar...@colostate.edu 




Dave Meyer wrote:

Thanks - I see - another commendable early apple (like the Lodi).
I will keep a digital photo record of the fruit development.
These apples look like they are being bitten by something very early
in their development causing the irregular deformation. The Sundance
right next to it is blemish free. And this happens every year.
Both trees got a great pollination this year - they are loaded. 


*From:* Bill Shoemaker mailto:wshoe...@inil.com
*Sent:* Thursday, May 21, 2009 8:03 AM
*To:* Apple-Crop mailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
*Subject:* Re: Apple-Crop: Re: Pristine apple tree

Dave

I have a couple of Pristine trees on B9 that are about 10 years
old now, maybe a couple of years older. The fruit tend to be
oblate shaped and with distinct lobing that makes them look a
little misshapened. I suspect if pollination isn't optimum, that
trait may be pronounced. Harold may be on to an important issue as
well.

Further, I was not impressed by the quality of fruit early, but
over time I learned its peak maturity and have become a fan of it
as an apple for fresh eating. I've given them away to a number of
people in recent years to learn their response and have had only
favorable responses. So I think it's an apple that needs a little
patience and a learning curve, but is rewarding in the end. Its
certainly become a consistently good apple in that maturity
window, which has little else to offer in northern Illinois.

Bill




 I planted Pristine, Sundance and Pixie Crunch in 2002.
 I am having consistent annual problems with the Pristine.
 Despite what is implied by its name, I am having a uniquely
 bad apple quality from this tree.

 Spray schedule:
 1/ dormant oil
 2/ Fertilome Blight Spray (streptomycin) was applied during bloom.
 3/ Following bloom drop - every 7 - 10 days with Imidan and Captan.

 Every year, the fruits are notably irregular shaped, bumpy and
malformed.
 They are certainly not smooth and pristine. They are the
 only variety out of 20 I have that do this. And the malformation
 is noticeable when fruit is just forming - finger tip sized.
 Any idea what is causing this? Everything else about
 the growth of this Pristine Apple is fine.
 Thanks.


 Dave Meyer
 Home orchardist
 Greenville, OH


Bill Shoemaker
University of Illinois
St Charles Horticulture Research Center





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Re: Apple-Crop: Ethryl

2009-01-28 Thread Harold J. Larsen



Interesting variation on spelling of the material. Here it is spelled 
Ethrel. To my understanding, its use here in Colorado is more to 
enhance return bloom (I think by enhancing thinning in conjunction w/ 
other thinners prior to flower initiation -- but I could easily be wrong 
on that).


Harold L.

--
Dr. Harold Larsen, Interim Manager - WCRC
Res. Pathologist  Ext. Fruit Dis. Specialist
Colo. St. Univ., WCRC - Orchard Mesa
3168  B  1/2  Road
Grand Junction, CO  81503-9621
Ph:  (970) 434-3264, x-205
FAX:  (970) 434-1035
EMail:  harold.lar...@colostate.edu 




Con.Traas wrote:


Hello all,

I hope that I have not been kicked off apple crop for bad behaviour. I 
have not seen any posts in a little while.


In the past few weeks I have been analysing results of farm-scale 
trials on the use of post-blossom ethryl to cause thinning in apples. 
The results seem to be very variable, depending on variety, with 
Alkmene and Bramley’s practically unaffected, and Katja, Jonagored and 
Elstar dropping a lot of apples, but with little positive effect on 
fruit size.


As this is my first year trying this chemical, I would be interested 
in any observations.


Con Traas

Cahir

Ireland

PS. Congratulations to the US readers on your new President. Do you 
expect any effects on pomology?






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