Re: [apple-crop] 'cider house'
Hi John: Do They have a list of equipment they plan to buy or own for making the cider? There are so many different sizes and configurations from one person press and larger depending on how many gallons they plan to process per day. Also, are they planning to pasteurize/UV or sell by the glass and/or put a warning label. Mosbah Mosbah M. Kushad Food Crops Extension Specialist and Postharvest Physiologist University of Illinois 1201 West Gregory Drive Urbana, Illinois 61801 phone (217)244-5691 -Original Message- From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Jon Clements Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 7:28 AM To: Apple-Crop Subject: [apple-crop] 'cider house' Hello all, does anyone know of any plans/floor layout for a small-scale cider 'room' or 'house?' Presumably for pressing relatively small amounts of fresh cider and selling retail. Thanks. Jon -- JMCEXTMAN Jon Clements cleme...@umext.umass.edu aka 'Mr Liberty' aka 'Mr Honeycrisp' IM mrhoneycrisp 413.478.7219 ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] Reverse Autumn?
Rye: to quickly correct the problem, I suggest that you use ammonium phosphate. It has about 35% available phosphorus and it is highly soluble in water. After that I suggest you use a properly composted manure or Rock phosphate. Manure will also correct the problem and add organic matter into the soil. Rock phosphate is not very soluble in water but over time it will get into the trees and prevent the problem from happening. Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois. From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 11:06 AM To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Reverse Autumn? Mosbah, That's good to know since I have sandy soil, and locally to those trees that have the most red the soil is the sandiest in the orchard. Thanks for all the input, I'm getting an awesome chemistry lesson as well as. This all seems to be correlating well to phosphorus. Which should be confirmed by lab test. Low and behold the weather is starting to warm up today. Thanks! Rye Hefley Future Farmers Marketer So. Cal. Mosbah Kushad Wed, 18 May 2011 14:30:59 -0700 In addition to leaf analysis, I suggest you send soil samples as well. Phosphorus binds to calcium and magnesium at high soil pH and to iron and aluminum at low soil pH, tying up the phosphorus. Also, course soils (sandy soils) have less phosphorus than fine soils. Mosbah , University of Illinois From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Ron Becker Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 2:28 PM To: 'Apple-crop discussion list' Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Reverse Autumn? Phosphorous deficiency will give leaves a reddish color on many types of plants. Sending a leaf sample to a lab for foliar analysis would be a way to confirm this. Ron Becker9a Ohioline-www.ohioline.osu.edu http://ohioline.osu.edu/ From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 3:10 PM To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: [apple-crop] Reverse Autumn? I know that subject is probably making you go Huh? I know that because that is what I'm thinking Huh? Some of my trees have new leaves growing out red like Autumn but gaining is size. And, new (red) leaves are still growing out after them and extending the shoot. Earlier leaves just below these are healthy green. These trees are a few of what were planted this year so they are developing the leader and bottom scaffolds of what will be Oblique Palmettes. The reason for the subject Reverse Autumn is because this happened earlier this year as well and those leaves eventually turned a healthy green when fully developed. I've concluded (could be wrong) that the leaves are lacking chlorophyll as the texture of the leaves are soft and supple as opposed to dead and dry. I'm hoping that the chlorophyll will inject again, but concerned because the red is deeper than it was last time. I don't really have enough data to say this, but I will anyway: Both times this happened was during a cooling off of the weather which seem to stimulate rapid growth. The first time this happened the green came in when the weather warmed up and growth wasn't quite as rapid. I'm hoping for a repeat, though I'm liking the rapid growth. Is this indicative of a nutrient problem or other stressor? I have been monitoring soil moisture so I'm not thinking it's a water problem. Also PH is slightly out of range on the high side just above 6.5, but that doesn't seem to bother the trees which are also growing rapidly as many leaders including these are approaching the second wire 22 above the heading cut at the first wire. I have found this picture on the web identifying nitrogen deficiency. http://www.hbci.com/~wenonah/min-def/apple.htm but it doesn't say whether this would present on new leaves only. Or if nitrogen deficiency would turn older leaves red which is not happening in this case; the older lower leaves are still beautiful green. Also I can't tell from the photo if the leaves in the picture are dry or supple. I am considering maybe this is a local deficiency (local to those trees) and adding some 15-15-15 on them, but everywhere I look says not to add fertilizer on new plantings to avoid root burn. But wouldn't growth be retarded if there was a deficiency? (This is what is confusing because
Re: [apple-crop] Reverse Autumn?
In addition to leaf analysis, I suggest you send soil samples as well. Phosphorus binds to calcium and magnesium at high soil pH and to iron and aluminum at low soil pH, tying up the phosphorus. Also, course soils (sandy soils) have less phosphorus than fine soils. Mosbah , University of Illinois From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Ron Becker Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 2:28 PM To: 'Apple-crop discussion list' Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Reverse Autumn? Phosphorous deficiency will give leaves a reddish color on many types of plants. Sending a leaf sample to a lab for foliar analysis would be a way to confirm this. Ron Becker9a Ohioline-www.ohioline.osu.edu http://ohioline.osu.edu/ From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 3:10 PM To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net Subject: [apple-crop] Reverse Autumn? I know that subject is probably making you go Huh? I know that because that is what I'm thinking Huh? Some of my trees have new leaves growing out red like Autumn but gaining is size. And, new (red) leaves are still growing out after them and extending the shoot. Earlier leaves just below these are healthy green. These trees are a few of what were planted this year so they are developing the leader and bottom scaffolds of what will be Oblique Palmettes. The reason for the subject Reverse Autumn is because this happened earlier this year as well and those leaves eventually turned a healthy green when fully developed. I've concluded (could be wrong) that the leaves are lacking chlorophyll as the texture of the leaves are soft and supple as opposed to dead and dry. I'm hoping that the chlorophyll will inject again, but concerned because the red is deeper than it was last time. I don't really have enough data to say this, but I will anyway: Both times this happened was during a cooling off of the weather which seem to stimulate rapid growth. The first time this happened the green came in when the weather warmed up and growth wasn't quite as rapid. I'm hoping for a repeat, though I'm liking the rapid growth. Is this indicative of a nutrient problem or other stressor? I have been monitoring soil moisture so I'm not thinking it's a water problem. Also PH is slightly out of range on the high side just above 6.5, but that doesn't seem to bother the trees which are also growing rapidly as many leaders including these are approaching the second wire 22 above the heading cut at the first wire. I have found this picture on the web identifying nitrogen deficiency. http://www.hbci.com/~wenonah/min-def/apple.htm but it doesn't say whether this would present on new leaves only. Or if nitrogen deficiency would turn older leaves red which is not happening in this case; the older lower leaves are still beautiful green. Also I can't tell from the photo if the leaves in the picture are dry or supple. I am considering maybe this is a local deficiency (local to those trees) and adding some 15-15-15 on them, but everywhere I look says not to add fertilizer on new plantings to avoid root burn. But wouldn't growth be retarded if there was a deficiency? (This is what is confusing because nutrient deficiency and rapid growth seem to contradict each other.) So my options are: 1) wait and see if the green comes in when the weather warms up like last time and attribute to rapid growth? (or further damage is done) 2) add fertilizer to one tree to see how it responds. This is a small orchard (176 trees) so I'm sensitive to damaging even one tree with an experiment. Anyone have experience with this? Or any thoughts or advice before I act or not act and maybe make matters worse? If it is a nitrogen deficiency what would be the lesser of the evils (deficiency or root burn)? BTW, I also have a row of ornamental trees nearby and they are all doing the same thing but not as completely red as these apple trees. All new leaves have red but eventually turn fully beautifully green when fully developed. Those trees (I have been told are cottonwood, by some, dogwood by others, all I know for sure is they are deciduous) I heavy pruned them in winter and they are well established root-wise and growing back in very rapid. Again the rapid growth hypothesis. Sorry for rambling, thanks for listening and thoughts are appreciated. Rye Hefley Future Farmers Marketer So. Cal. ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Re: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing
Hi Randy: I have had several trellising trials and I can tell you that it is difficult to keep the trees growing upright and to keep them from snapping at the graft union (especially Gala), if you use a single wire. The only possibility is to use a vigorous rootstock in the M.26 size. Use a 10' metal conduit, place the wire at a height (6' to 7') so that you can walk under the wire when trees are still young and insert the rest of the conduit in the ground. It did a fair job for us in Central Illinois because we have a very rich soil that makes trees on M.26 almost as big as on M.7. I would be hesitant to recommend it on sandy type soils or on M.9 or smaller rootstocks. Hope this helps, Mosbah Mosbah M. Kushad Food Crops Extension Specialist and Postharvest Physiologist University of Illinois 1201 West Gregory Drive Urbana, Illinois 61801 phone (217)244-5691 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Randy Steffens Jr Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 8:43 AM To: Apple-crop discussion list Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing For those who have high-density orchards, do you find trellising with one wire at about 9 feet provides sufficient support, if a bamboo stake or the like is placed at each tree? Randy Steffens Jr Shepherd's Valley Orchards Middle Tennessee On Feb 28, 2011, at 6:55 AM, Con.Traas wrote: I agree with Terence and Dave, Their experience and concerns have been borne out here in Ireland over the past number of years, where it has been survival of the more dense (orchards rather than orchardists). Obviously there are limits, but in our own case, for our single line orchards we have opted for 4 ft. x 11ft., and we have found this a good spacing for the more vigorous Elstar variety (more vigorous than Golden Delicious or Jonagold at least). We do not grow the trees as high as at lower latitudes (more mutual shading from taller trees when you come this far North), and have found that a limit of about 5 ½ to 6 feet height of cropping wall works well. In practice, this wall commences about 2 feet above the ground, and finishes at 7.5 feet, facilitating all harvesting and pruning from ground level. Con Traas ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop ___ apple-crop mailing list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
Apple-Crop: ADA certified chewing gum
The today's front page of our student paper shows a large color photo of a person's mouth full of different color gum balls with a title Dental association certifies Wrigley gums as beneficial. Apparently, on September 25th, the American Dental Association awarded its Seal of Acceptance to Wrigley sugarfree chewing gums, because as they wrote on their website are clinically shown to help prevent cavities, reduce plaque acid and strengthen teeth. The other products that have been awarded the ADA Seal of Acceptance are toothbrushes, toothpastes, dental floss, and mouth rinses. Any chance of convincing ADA that eating apples also does the same thing and even better. Unlike gums that have food colorants, preservatives, salts, etc., apples have antioxidants and fibers that have been proven to provide better health. Here is an article that we can share with ADA if we can get them to listen. [Reduction of dental plaque by apples and chewing gum by [ http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/sites/entrez?Db=pubmedCmd=SearchTerm=%22Schne ider%20HG%22%5BAuthor%5Ditool=EntrezSystem2.PEntrez.Pubmed.Pubmed_ResultsPa nel.Pubmed_RVAbstractPlus Schneider HG, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/sites/entrez?Db=pubmedCmd=SearchTerm=%22Kniek necht%20I%22%5BAuthor%5Ditool=EntrezSystem2.PEntrez.Pubmed.Pubmed_ResultsPa nel.Pubmed_RVAbstractPlus Knieknecht I. With aid of Plaque-Index (Quigley-Hein) the reduction of dental plaque was observed on 100 children per group: Tooth brushing for 2 min (first control group), Tooth brushing for 2 min combined with individual instruction and control of procedure (second control group), Eating an apple, Masticating chewing gum for 1 h. The following average reduction of dental plaque was find out: Group 1--0.42 grade of index (14.9%); group 2--1.00 (35.0%); group 3--0.47 (15.9%); group 4--0.28 (9.7%). Mosbah M. Kushad, University of Illinois
RE: Apple-Crop: Paula Red - Water Core Problem
I would like to add a few comments about watercore.. It usually develops in
hot/dry seasons, especially if the hot weather occurs during the last two
months before harvest. As Jon indicated, the exact cause is not known but,
as I vaguely recall, one study suggested that the process of sorbitol
conversion to starch is disturbed in watercore apples. Sorbitol is a
sugar-alcohol that apple leaves send to the fruit to be converted into
starch (you will not feel the alcohol effect when eat watercore apples).
Watercore apples have higher sorbitol and low starch than non watercore
apples and that is why they taste sweeter. In general, fruits that have low
or no starch should not be stored for any length of time regardless if they
have watercore or not. A simple iodine test is a good indicator of the
starch level in the fruit. I am not sure there has been any scientific
evidence directly linking watercore to calcium and that maybe the reason why
the calcium spray did not reduce the disorder. Hope this help, Mosbah
Kushad, University of Illinois
-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jon Clements
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 8:09 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: Paula Red - Water Core Problem
Joanne, watercore is a physiological disorder whose cause is many and not
terribly well understood. Suffice it to say, it should clue you off to a few
things:
1.) It is a good indicator of maturity, in this case over-maturity.
Watercore fruit should be harvested ASAP.
2.) It may be an indicator of low calcium levels in the fruit -- fruit seem
to be large this year on average, we have had plenty of rain, so calcium
levels in fruit may be low despite our efforts to supply calcium. Our
Paulared crop in Belchertown is very heavy, further exacerbating the
problem. I am not sure if we can implicate Apogee use in any of this?
3.) Water core fruit should not be stored if you can avoid it.
4.) Some cultures place a premium on watercore ('Honeycore') fruit,
particularly for example Fuji. Of course this makes sense given that it is a
sign of mature fruit, hence high in sugars and complexity of flavor.
For a more complete explanation on the phenomenon, see:
http://postharvest.tfrec.wsu.edu/pgDisplay.php?article=N3I4A
Good luck and don't sweat it too much.
Jon
Jon Clements
Extension Tree Fruit Specialist
UMass Cold Spring Orchard
393 Sabin Street
Belchertown, MA 01007
VOICE 413.478.7219
FAX 413.323.0382
IM mrhoneycrisp
Skype Name mrhoneycrisp
On Aug 18, 2007, at 7:40 AM, JOANNE DINARDO wrote:
We have experienced water core in about 30% of our Paula Red Apples.
They are in two different blocks in the orchard and the problem exists
throughout the crop. The problem is on small and large apples and on
almost ripe and over ripe apples. The only different chemical that was
used this year was Appogee. We applied calcium as a nutrient but have
done so consistently over the years.
In seven years we have never experienced this problem. Has anyone else
checked on their crop? Has anyone else experienced this under these
unique growing conditions.
Thanks
Joanne DiNardo
Sholan Farms
Leominster, Mass
978-870-
--
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Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent
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http://www.virtualorchard.net and managed by Win Cowgill and Jon
Clements [EMAIL PROTECTED].
Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent
official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility for
the content.
