[Blackbelly] microscopes for fecal tests

2009-04-06 Thread Cathy Mayton
For those who may be interested in doing fecals, I have  2 Premiere
microscopes for sale, each has 4x, 10x, 20x and 30x and 40x objectives
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LeapN Lambs
Winnemucca, NV
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Re: [Blackbelly] microscopes for fecal tests

2009-04-06 Thread Cathy Mayton
Hi Becky,

I paid $800 for them but am askint $450 or make me a good offer.

Cathy



On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 7:42 AM, Becky Lannon beckylanno...@hughes.net wrote:
 - Original Message - From: Cathy Mayton camay...@gmail.com
 To: blackbelly digest blackbelly@lists.blackbellysheep.info
 Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 8:47 AM
 Subject: [Blackbelly] microscopes for fecal tests


 For those who may be interested in doing fecals, I have  2 Premiere
 microscopes for sale, each has 4x, 10x, 20x and 30x and 40x objectives
 --
 Cathy Mayton
 LeapN Lambs
 Winnemucca, NV
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 Cathy,

 What are you asking for them?

 Becky Lannon
 Lone Star Farm
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Re: [Blackbelly] tanning

2009-04-03 Thread Cathy Mayton
Rick,

Buck's does mine as well and I am very happy with them.  I think there
are some in TX as well and once I get settled down there, I'll shop
around a bit for us.

Cathy Mayton
LeapN Lambs

On Thu, Apr 2, 2009 at 8:18 PM, Rick Krach rickkr...@hotmail.com wrote:


 Cathy, I always get my hides done at Buck's County Fur in PA.  Do you have 
 yours done there, too?  If not, where, and what is the cost?


 Rick Krach
 Auburn California
  (530) 355-5144

   Beth, I responded directly to Carrie.  I have a few and another out
 for tanning now that she may like.

 Cathy
 LeapN Lambs

 On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 12:30 PM, GARLAND STAMPER
 wrote:
 Hi all,

 I just received a post from a gal that is looking for a BB hide to buy. We
 don't have any so thought I'd post her request to the list.


 I am looking for a summer-coat hide - as dark as possible with BLACK edge
 lines

 Contact: Carrie Griffith

 Thanks,

 Beth in OR




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Re: [Blackbelly] Blackbelly Hide Wanted

2009-04-01 Thread Cathy Mayton
Beth, I responded directly to Carrie.  I have a few and another out
for tanning now that she may like.

Cathy
LeapN Lambs

On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 12:30 PM, GARLAND STAMPER gstamper97...@msn.com wrote:
 Hi all,

 I just received a post from a gal that is looking for a BB hide to buy.  We
 don't have any so thought I'd post her request to the list.


 I am looking for a summer-coat hide - as dark as possible with BLACK edge
 lines

 Contact: Carrie Griffith lak...@crestviewcable.com


 Thanks,

 Beth in OR

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[Blackbelly] ram lambs for sale

2008-11-16 Thread Cathy Mayton
I have 5 ram lambs that were born between Oct 13 and Oct 30 from three
different sires.  Jingle Farms Zeke (165 lbs), LeapN Lambs Indy (170
lbs) Zeke is Indy's sire and LeapN Lambs Rocky (130 lbs).  These ram
lambs will be registered, if new owner wants.  I am breeding for no
wool, longer bodies for more chops and broader shoulders and rumps for
higher yield.  All ram lambs are mahogany and black in color.  One
lamb is a repeat breeding that created LeapN Lambs Indy.  All my rams
have a nice personality.  We just had 5 lambs butchered that were born
January/February 2008, 2 weighed 90 lbs and 2 weighed 98 lbs live
weight with a yield of 34-38 lbs of wrapped meat.  One ewe lamb was
butchered for low growth performance and way to much wool.

This is my last set of lambs for this area as we will be moving to
Texas sometime next Spring.

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LeapN Lambs
Winnemucca, NV
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Re: [Blackbelly] Urinary Calculi

2008-10-14 Thread Cathy Mayton
In regards to urinary calculi maybe adding adding apple cider vinegar
to their water would help.  The acidity of the vinegar would dissolve
the calculi.  Also, you get another plus with the vinegar as I read in
Sheep! magazine over a year ago that the apple cider vinegar is also
used for worming.Just a thought.

Cathy Mayton
LeapN Lambs

On Mon, Oct 13, 2008 at 3:48 PM, The Wintermutes
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I do not know if this will be helpful after urinary calculi has developed.
 I prevent urinary calculi by feeding plain salt and making plenty of water
 available.  Where salt goes water soon follows.  The males need to urinate
 frequently to flush the residue from high protein feeds that build the
 stones that plug up the urinary tract.

 Mark Wintermute



 I have a more serious question regarding urinary calculi.  Our  boys went
 wild 3 wks after we opened the pen for pasture grazing.  Now  they are
 un-catchable and we don't have a good pen setup they won't dash out of
 before we can
 close the gate.  If chased too much they will literally  leap the 5 ft.
 fences
 and be gone.  The Vet suggested we just shoot  him.  Is there anything that
 can
 be put in their feed to help this guy  since we can't get our hands on him?
 I've looked at archive articles on what to  suppliment to prevent this, but
 is
 there anything an be given after the  fact?

 Georgette Atwood
 NorCal

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Re: [Blackbelly] wasting away could be coccidiosis

2008-08-19 Thread Cathy Mayton
Are you close to a University such as Texas AM?  It might be worth
contacting them and find a vet interested in the problem you are
experiencing.  Doing a necropsy on the next animal that expires can be
very beneficial since you may find out exactly what is causing the
problem.  Just a thought.

Cathy
LeapN Lambs

On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 6:43 AM, Cathy Mayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Are you close to a University such as Texas AM?  It might be worth
 contacting them and find a vet interested in the problem you are
 experiencing.  Doing a necropsy on the next animal that expires can be very
 beneficial since you may find out exactly what is causing the problem.  Just
 a thought.

 Cathy
 LeapN Lambs

 On Mon, Aug 18, 2008 at 11:02 PM, Julian Hale [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 At 03:07 PM 8/18/2008, you wrote:
 IT certainly could be coccidia.  If they are experiencing bloody scours,
  then coccidia would be almost certain.  Corid is the drug of choice for
  coccidia.  Sulfa also works.
 There is a new drug called MARQUIS for coccidia.  I have not had a
  problem with this for so long I forgot.  I did a quick review of the
  symptoms and sometimes coccidiosis presents without bloody scours.  It
  damages the intestinal lining so this would explain the wasting away.
 
 My memory is beginning to fail me some on these diseases/symptoms.
 
 Cecil in OKla

 Yes, I would say that coccidiosis is the most likely culprit.  Barb Lee
 has experienced wasting problems, and found out it was coccidiosis.  She
 reported that supplementing selenium seemed to solve her problem, where
 coccidiostats didn't.

 Julian

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Re: [Blackbelly] one udder

2008-06-18 Thread Cathy Mayton
Hi Rick,

J.C. wonder if maybe she was bitten by snake.  Do you have the brown
recluse spiders in your area?

Cathy
LeapN Lambs

On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 7:28 PM, Rick Krach [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 I had a somewhat strange thing happen to a ewe this spring.  She literally 
 lost an udder.  The ewe had been nursing one lamb for a couple of months 
 until one morning when she started acted sluggish and stopped nursing.  I 
 couldn't see anything different on her or find any injuries and I looked at 
 her udder carefully.  She lay down and didn't move much for nearly a week.  
 She wasn't much interested in food or water either.  When she finally started 
 to recover, she had lost a lot of weight, and I could see that one side of 
 her udder had begun to rot away.  I figured that was the end of her, but she 
 seems to have survived it.  There is a hairless dark patch where the udder 
 used to be, and she is back to normal, along with now being a nice trimmed 
 size.  (She was a fat, Great American breed.)

 Is this at all common for any kind of livestock to have a part of their body 
 rot away and fall off?  I am so surprised that I almost want to keep her to 
 see if she can still produce and nurse lambs next year, but maybe that is not 
 the most logical, practical thing to do?


 Rick Krach
 Auburn, California
 (530) 889-1488

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Re: [Blackbelly] copper

2008-04-25 Thread Cathy Mayton
Copper and other metals are normally found in the ground and although
we try to avoid copper, it is an essential metal required by life.
Whether you realize it or not there is probably small amounts of
copper in whatever you are currently feeding.  I have been giving my
sheep kelp as a replacement for the normal sheep minerals for almost a
year now and they are very healthy.  The kelp has some copper in it
but because it a plant material the copper that is in the kelp does
not produce toxic levels.  Last Fall I started giving my sheep Celtic
sea salt that has 81 different minerals in it.

All of ewes have produced large strong lambs and all without the use
of the normal sheep mineral.  You are more likely to produce toxicity
in the animals if they are provided with salt licks or given other
commercially produced minerals containing copper.  If your sheep were
free ranging animals, you can bet the forage they eat will contain
small amounts of normal occurring copper.  The sheep love the kelp and
their hair is nice and shiny.

BTW, my sheep are dry lot animals so I have to provide all of their
food and other nutrients.
Not scientifically based but this is my 2 cents.

Cathy
LeapN Lambs

On Fri, Apr 25, 2008 at 5:33 AM, Nancy  Tom Richardson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello, Does anyone know how long copper stays in the ground and comes up in
 the grass? We have a chance to put our sheep out on some grass that had hogs
 on it about 7 - 10 years ago. Will the copper still be coming up in it? Just
 want an opinion doesn't have to be fact. Nancy

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Re: [Blackbelly] DE dust

2008-01-31 Thread Cathy Mayton
Hi John and Barb,

I add DE to my sheeps grain but I have a mist bottle with water in it.
 I mist the grain and stir it up making sure most of the grain is
slightly wetted, then add the DE and the DE sticks nicely to the grain
and there is no dust.

Cathy
LeapN' Lambs

On Jan 31, 2008 4:48 PM, Double J Farms [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Any ideas on how to reduce the dust from DE added to dry grain feed?

 John Carlton
 Double J Farms

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Re: [Blackbelly] The Beet Pulp Experiment

2008-01-21 Thread Cathy Mayton
Dear Barb,

This last email you sent regarding finding out what makes the ABB
sheep tick is right on.  I recently wrote to a gentleman in the
Bahamas who has a flock of BB and I asked him how he mananged his
sheep.  He did not give me a direct answer but told me that my sheep
are wild.  I was not sure exactly what he meant by that. What he was
referring to, is that the ABB was bred for hunting purposes and it has
not been too many years that the ABB has been embraced by shepherds
such as yourself.

I am considered a newbie since it has been less than 2 years of
owning my small flock.  What I did notice is the goat-like behavior
of these sheep.  How many wool sheep do you see standing on their hind
legs to strip leaves from trees?  I had a couple Suffolk for a short
time because my husband wanted to cross the Suffolk with one of my
rams.  If you had a chance to read the article I wrote for the
membership, I mentioned that I periodically let my ewes out to graze
in the front and side yard.  The Suffolk ate the fallen leaves but
did not try to eat the leaves off the trees nor did they strip bark
off the trees.

My ABB flock now head out to eat the fallen branches off the willow
tree and then they go out front to eat the branches off the shrubs.
MAYBE if they get bored they will literally graze on the grass but
that is not their first choice.  In the spring I can't let them out
because the eat all the tender shoots off the trees and shrubs and
they bounce around from one shrub to the other especially if one
thinks a gold mine has been hit.

Yes, mine mostly get  a small amount of grain twice a day and alfalfa
but I also give them veggie scraps which they love.  I used to throw
away the hulls from the pistachio nuts I eat but they love them too.
They also love green weeds and dried up ole tumbleweeds.  I give them
all of this.

I think we have to do the best we can within our means and areas that
we are growing these sheep.  You are doing your very best.  I also
culled heavy last year for wool and if a ewe does not take care of her
lambs then she will go down the road.  In the wild it would be
survival of the fittest.

I don't believe there is a right way or wrong way to feed our sheep,
we all just have to do our best and be critical enough to know when to
cull.  If there is an undesirable trait, no matter how sweet the
animal is, than maybe it is best to cull them from the breeding line.
If the animal is sweet and someone would like to have it for pet than
it is a win-win for you and the sheep. I do believe that these are not
just grass sheep like the woolies.

I think these sheep would have a blast if they were able to run in
thickets and be allowed to forage on the plants and shrubs in the
thickets.  I wonder if they like kudzu that grows in the Southeast?
They might be great for hire to clear areas thick with kudzu and
other undesirable plants.  I have read articles regarding goats for
hire that do this very thing.  We have however, fenced in our sheep
and so they must survive on what the shepherd gives them.

Just my thoughts..
Cathy Mayton
LeapN' Lambs

On Jan 21, 2008 10:52 AM, Barb Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Ya know Cecil, I received some startling advice on raising these sheep
 that came from a non-sheep person.  He said that when I obtained exotic
 animals (and whether we like it or not, we are dealing with an exotic
 animal), it became my responsibility to know more about them than
 anybody on the planet.  Otherwise they would die, and it would be my
 fault - felony ignorance.  He had a clarity of insight that amazed me.
 Without knowing much about the sheep, he summed it up...They are out of
 their natural environment, they are offered feed they may not be adapted
 to, they are not acclimatized (very few of my remaining sheep come from
 this area), they are a combination of opposing reproductive
 characteristics.  He told me I had to know more about them than the
 vet...I had to know more about them than anyone else in the
 area...because if I was going to raise them successfully, **I** was
 going to have to adapt to **them** in order to work through the process
 of adapting my particular flock to my circumstances.

 As we - or I - wade through the challenges of understanding what I can
 do with them and what I cannot, we have to keep in mind that Industry is
 pushing Livestock producers to absorb the waste products of ethanol
 production.  They do this by publishing a nutritional analysis and
 letting us find out for ourselves if the physical body can utilize
 foodlike substances not found in nature.  You can just look into any
 feedlot and see the sickness that alternative feeds with apparently high
 nutritional profiles wreak on the animals there.  Ag has always been a
 dumping ground for industrial waste.  My farrier raises pigs and he says
 that distillers grains and corn gluten meal, et al are not successful
 for raising pigs.  Why??? It has the nutrition

[Blackbelly] Diatomaceous earth

2007-11-05 Thread Cathy Mayton
Barb,

I have been feeding Diatomaceous earth (DE) to my dogs since about
April of this year.  I get mine from www.theholistichorse.com and it
is a food grade DE with grapeseed in it.  They recommend a higher dose
for 3 days and then a maintenance dose 3-5 tmes a week.  I am feeding
my 50 lb dogs 1 tablespoon a day as a maintenance dose.

I got the package out this afternoon and the dosage for sheep and
goats is 2 tablespoon 2 times a day x 3 days with a maintenance of 2
tablespoons 3-5 times a week.  I found another source for DE on the
web last night at Freshwater Organics (1-888-949-350) in Sandy UT.
Their email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED]  This too is food
grade DE and they sell a 50# lb bag for $64 dollars that includes the
shipping.  They also have smaller sizes.  I don't know how this
compares to your source or price.

Not only is the DE to act as a wormer but also as a probiotic for the
intestines.  Healthy intestines are less likely to host internal
parasites.  I also recently read about adding apple cider vinegar to
the water 1 ounce / 6 gallons of water in Sheep! magazine.  This too
acts as a wormer since the worms can't handle the acidic environment.
The apple cider vinegar also is great for the digestion tract as well.

Most holistic/natural methods take longer than chemical/drug methods
and so you may need to check your animals in 60 days again as
suggested by another member the other day.   That way more than one
life cycle of the internal parasites will have passed and give you a
better indication as to whether or not the DE works for your animals.
The other natural wormer that I have read about is the Garlic Barrier
which also was discussed recently on the BB digest.  So now we have
many things to choose from to try and treat our animals using holistic
methods vs chemicals and drugs.

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Leap'N Lambs
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[Blackbelly] tetanus, sheath rot and blackleg

2007-10-08 Thread Cathy Mayton
I have found a couple web sites that explain the diseases currently
being discussed on the BB digest that give a explanation. For tetanus
in horses there is a short explanation at
http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/livestock/horses/facts/info_tetanus.htm.
The tetanus bacteria is what manifests the disease lockjaw. It is
recommended that humans get vaccinated for tetanus every 10 years.

Blackleg is an infectious, usually fatal bacterial disease of cattle
and sometimes of sheep, goats, and swine, caused by Clostridium
chauvoe and characterized by gas-containing swellings in the
musculature. Both of these diseases (tetanus and blackleg) are
preventable with vaccines.

Also Barb Lee mentioned that one of her wethers developed sheath rot
and I found a good explanation for this at

http://cahe.nmsu.edu/sheep/sheep_health/sheath_rot.html

Sheath rot is caused by a bacterium and urea reaction from the urine.
The reaction causes irritation of the prepuce. Sheath rot primarily
occurs in rams on high-protein rations. Control of sheath rot consists
of changing the ration. To reduce the potential for sheath rot, sheep
can be grazed on dry grass pastures or fed a grass hay in a drylot.
External lesions associated with sheath rot can be treated with one
part copper sulfate and eight parts of petroleum jelly, or with
antibiotic ointments.



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LeapN Lambs

Winnemucca, NV
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