[drakelist] Replacement LED's for TR7

[Don and Diana Cunningham]

"Don and Diana Cunningham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang
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If there is any interest, I think I have several sets left of the original 
units, both 2 and 4 section LED's.  If there is any interest, I'll dig them 
out and see what I have left.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 


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Re: [drakelist] TR7 replacement DF4NW LED assembly sold by W2ENY

[Jim Pruitt]

"Jim Pruitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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or you can go to:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/vze3rys4/TR7_Display/

and buy the DF4NW replacement LED display for a fixed price plus shipping.

This is not a replacement for the DR7.  It is a replacement for the 6 LED's
used in the DR7 since the original 2 digit and 4 digit LED's that made up
the display in the original DR7 are no longer available.  If you have one or
more bad digits or segments in the original LED's then this will fix
(replace them).

I purchased one and they work very well but your mileage may vary.

I have no connection with either DF4NW or W2ENY, just a satisfied customer.

Jim Pruitt



- Original Message - 
From: "Dino Papas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear" 
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] TR7 cold start problem


>
> Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Just saw a replacement LED board for the TR7 on eBay in case your DR7
> is kaput:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/W2ENY-Replacement-Display-kit-for-Drake-TR-7-
> TR-7A-R-7_W0QQitemZ5862996358QQcategoryZ4674QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Dino KL0S/4
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[drakelist] 34-PNB Noise Blanker

[Lanny Rathert]

"Lanny Rathert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I have a 34-PNB on a TR-4 , it states for use in TR-4's with serial # 31321
and above.Will this be plug /play in a TR4CW/rit serial #43956?Is there
alignment procedure required to install in the TR4CW/rit.Thanks ...Lanny
N0JZ


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[drakelist] L7 Grid current?

[john]

john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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What kind of grid current to you L7 users see, when the amp is fully loaded 
on CW?


Thanks!
John



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[drakelist] TR7 cold start problem

[Floyd Sense]

"Floyd Sense" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Thanks to all who replied to my plea.  I'll get started on it at sunrise 
tomorrow, and with any luck will have it fixed by Super Bowl time!


73, Floyd - K8AC 


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Re: [drakelist] TR7 cold start problem

[Dino Papas]

Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Just saw a replacement LED board for the TR7 on eBay in case your DR7  
is kaput:


http://cgi.ebay.com/W2ENY-Replacement-Display-kit-for-Drake-TR-7- 
TR-7A-R-7_W0QQitemZ5862996358QQcategoryZ4674QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Dino KL0S/4
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Re: [drakelist] TR7 cold start problem

[Don and Diana Cunningham]

"Don and Diana Cunningham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang
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Floyd,
This sounds like the famous "dirty connections on the DR-7 board" that most 
of us have run into.  Sometimes you only have to take the screw out of the 
board, and move it up and down some to "clean" the contacts, but I usually 
had to take the DR-7 out and put some DeOxit on the pins and in the socket 
to clean the contacts enough to make this stop.  Some have said they found 
cold solder joints on that plug (actually soldered from the bottom of the 
motherboard, as I remember, but I have not found that here.  The other half 
of the plug would solder from the DR-7 board itself.  If that's not TOO 
confusing, hope it helps your problem!

73,
Don, WB5HAK 


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[drakelist] TR7 cold start problem

[Floyd Sense]

"Floyd Sense" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I could use some advice on how to proceed on this one.  Here's the problem: 
Sometimes when started from cold, the frequency display on my TR7 is 
free-running (around 32.7 MHz and counting up) when the bandswitch is in the 
21 or 28 MHz positions.  Less frequently, it's also free running around 17 
MHz when the bandswitch is set to any of the positions 14 MHz and below. 
This is exactly the same thing that you'd expect to see if you press the 
Fixed-RCV button and have the AUX switch set to NORM.  When the rig warms up 
a bit, the problem goes away.  I suppose it's possible that the contacts of 
the FIXED-RCV switch are intermittent, but working the switch rapidly has no 
effect when the symptom occurs.


According to the service manual, the VCO does not need alignment if the 
frequency display behaves as described there when the FIXED-RCV button is 
pushed in.  But, the info is insufficient for me to decide whether or not 
the display is really showing what I think.  For example, in one instance 
the display is supposed to be counting UP in frequency to "approximately 17 
MHz".  Mine is counting up, but the frequency displayed is around 17.7 MHz. 
Is that "approximately" 17 MHz?  Same for the other oscillator - is 32.7 MHz 
"approximately" 32 MHz?  I've not checked the voltages on the VCO yet as 
described in the alignment steps for the VCO.


There is no AUX board installed.

Thanks for any advice.

73, Floyd - K8AC



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Re: [drakelist] R4C RF Gain Tab Removal

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Bob -

It is just a "press fit" over the pot shaft and will come off with 
"persuasion".  I use a screwdriver, placing the end against the back of 
the tube and pry gently against the pot bushing.   There is probably a 
little corrosion, and once it moves slightly it should come right off.  
If really stubborn, a drop or two of penetrating oil should loosen it 
up.  But it "does" slide off!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake C-Line Service Manual




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Folks,
 
I need to remove an R4C front panel to get to the main tuning 
mechanism for repairs. Haven't had to do that before.
 
Question:  The tab for the RF gain seems to be soldered to the 
outer shaft on the potentiometer. The knob comes off but the RF 
control tab does not.  Do I really have to unsolder the tab to get it 
off or am I missing something?
 
Wonder if some previous owner had it come lose and decided solder was 
the way to keep it on!
 
Comments most welcome.
 
Thanks,
 
--Bob  W1XT   Surprise, AZ
 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [drakelist] R4C RF Gain Tab Removal

[Gary Poland]

Bob
  The tab is soldered to a brass bushing that is pushed on over the 
control shaft, just a friction fit. They can be stuborn but will pull off. Place 
some heavy cardboard near the shaft to protect the front panel and pry it off 
with a screwdriver.
 
73, Gary