Re: [Drakelist] OT (sorta) - long - Vacuum tubes were the 4th largest US export in 2011!!??
Chris, Just a guess here, but could they be referring to something of an industrial tube? For example, medical devices that generate various type of radiation. Maybe even magnetrons or CRTs. I would think that medical devices in a dollar sense would bring a premium and thus make it high on the list by $$ vs quantity. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Sun, 1/1/12, Chris Kepus cke...@comcast.net wrote: From: Chris Kepus cke...@comcast.net Subject: [Drakelist] OT (sorta) - long - Vacuum tubes were the 4th largest US export in 2011!!?? To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Sunday, January 1, 2012, 10:53 PM Happy New Year to all. First, I apologize in advance to others who subscribe to the same multiple lists I belong and wonder, Why in the *^%UI* does this guy splatter all the lists with his OT QRM? If you feel this way, please just hit the Delete key now. The reason I am posting this far and wide is because there are many very knowledgeable experts in the business of electronics who only post on one of the lists to which I subscribe and I want to hear back from you, wherever you are, if you know the answer to a question about the subject. One of my non-ham friends called me asking, ...you're a ham who told me you use vacuum tubes and that new vacuum tubes came from China, Russia, and other countries...I thought USA manufacturers of vacuum tubes were all dead.did you know an AP article on top US Exports appearing in The Salt Lake Tribune named Vacuum Tubes as the 4th largest US export at $37.1 Billion!!! .how is this possible? Astonished (and very suspicious of a misunderstanding), I Googled and found a couple of references to this report as well as the AP article here: http://www.sltrib.com/csp/cms/sites/sltrib/pages/printerfriendly.csp?id=5320 6814 All the vintage boatanchor lists I monitor have been quiet on this subject. Maybe, I thought, I'm the only ham who doesn't know this secret. God, I hate being ignorant! Another reference to supplement this information is this report: Best Export Markets for U.S. Electronic Components, 2010. On this website: http://static.globaltrade.net/files/pdf/20101216032232.pdf This report appears to be a partial source of export information for the vacuum tube category named: HS 8540: This category is defined as including: Thermionic, Cold Cathode or Photocathode Tubes (Vacuum, Vapor 3 or Gas Filled Tubes, Cathode-Ray Tubes, Television Camera Tubes, etc.). Vacuum Tubes were also in the top five exports in 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007 and 2006! To those of you who know something about current vacuum tube manufacturing, could you please enlighten me as to what it is, exactly, that we are exporting that are called Vacuum Tubes? Thanks, Chris W7JPG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,Drake B line Twins No output
Fred, From previous threads, I suspicion not, but. In tune, does drive cause current to increase? Or in PTT, drive and whistle increase current? If so, look at the relay contacts. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Sun, 1/1/12, fjmel...@aol.com fjmel...@aol.com wrote: From: fjmel...@aol.com fjmel...@aol.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,Drake B line Twins No output To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Sunday, January 1, 2012, 11:52 PM Well, the earlier problem with the spot frequency function not working has lead to no output at all from the transmitter. It shows idle current only when you go to tune or hold the PTT on the mic. Any ideas where to start. Tubes or power supply? Power supply rebuilt 3 or 4 years ago .After rebuilt it always had a 60 cycle hum on 40 meters. You could feel the cabinet vibrating. Thanks 73 de Fred WD8ADG -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins
Just read someones post about being new to the Drake community. Well the archives have a great amount of information, unfortunately it is difficult to go through and catch everything. The following is a gem IMO for the owners of Drake twins. I do not take credit for the idea, just want to pass it on to new folks in our community. http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER
On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. Hi Curt, I think that the one major difference betwixt the EICO the Hallicrafters TO keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the TO used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the EICO went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the EICO designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my right hand is raised!), then one can through a LOT of vexing gyrations travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not necessary...! : ) ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Tec Net Sunday
Was great to check into the Drake Tech Net on Sunday PM on 7238 at 2000Z, thanks to all the stations who offered some insights to the PTO and Filter questions I had. With the cold WX and the INRAD sale I thought I would consider buying a new filter but will keep looking for a used one to replace the Bad Tedford 8 pole in the TR-4. I did buy some matched crystals and may try a homebrew 4 pole and see how it 'plays' I recently received a nice little 4 plole circuit board from kits and parts unfortunately it is just a bit too wide to fit in the original holder. While continuing to look for a 'stock' unit I have collected some parts to try to make one but have not gotten one to sound good yet. I put some of my notes on my blog http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com. Several mentioned the problem of having to get two filters an equal distance from the carrier freq and the cost of two INRAD is not justified (to me anyway). Did some more reading on the PTO and it seems like the T4Xb PTO should work well in the TR-4. After redoing the T4 PTO I will probably try to clean the TR-4 PTO bearing and maybe add the braid to the 'fork' on it. These two issues are on my winter list for the Drake radios. Paul Gerhardt K3PG http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com QRP ARCI 6674 FP 274 You must do this work with love or you fail. -- John Muir, from How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,Drake B line Twins No output
Fred - All bands?? NOT a power supply problem. IF you key the transmitter can you hear it in a nearby receiver where it 'should' be? If you're set up for transceive with the R-4B, does it work in TRANSCEIVE under RCVR control? The power supply hum may be the result of transmitter bolts loosening. Some hum is normal, would NOT be related to a particular band(s). 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com fjmel...@aol.com wrote: /Well, the earlier problem with the spot frequency function not working has lead to no output at all from the transmitter. It shows idle current only when you go to tune or hold the PTT on the mic. / // /Any ideas where to start. Tubes or power supply? Power supply rebuilt 3 or 4 years ago .After rebuilt it always had a 60 cycle hum on 40 meters. You could feel the cabinet vibrating. / // /Thanks / // /73 de Fred WD8ADG / ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins
Just be sure the LAST thing you do is dip the plate current so you are resonant. This is at the final power setting (fully tuned up) I am so fast at tuning for MAX smoke that I think I am very kind to the finals. Probably a more important thing is use a small AUX fan for cooling...I just set mine on top suck the air OUT. That baby runs nice cool. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 5:37 am Subject: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Just read someones post about being new to the Drake community. Well the archives have a great amount of information, unfortunately it is difficult to go through and catch everything. The following is a gem IMO for the owners of Drake twins. I do not take credit for the idea, just want to pass it on to new folks in our community. http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins
Ron - The referenced 'procedure' will work, but seems FAR more complicated than necessary. My 'procedure'... Set BAND switch. Set GAIN to about 9 o'clock. Set RF TUNE to the appropriate (marked) place on the scale for the band in use. Set LOAD to about 10 o'clock. Switch to TUNE with your left hand and dip any PLATE current showing. Keep your right hand on the PLATE control and peak the RF TUNE and dip PLATE. Increase GAIN to about 10-11 o'clock on SSB and tune PLATE and LOAD for maximum output. Dip PLATE! For CW, increase GAIN and tune PLATE and LOAD for maximum output. Dip PLATE! Now granted I've been doing this for 40+ years, but I can change bands in less than 10 seconds. It took me a LOT longer just to read the referenced procedure!! THE _ONLY_ CRITICAL ACTION IS TO KEEP THE PLATE DIPPED. ALL ELSE IS IRRELEVANT. PA TUBES WILL LAST FOR DECADES. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Ron wrote: Just read someones post about being new to the Drake community. Well the archives have a great amount of information, unfortunately it is difficult to go through and catch everything. The following is a gem IMO for the owners of Drake twins. I do not take credit for the idea, just want to pass it on to new folks in our community. http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER
Just don't turn your HA-1 on it's side! Mercury relays don't bounce! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my right hand is raised!), then one can through a /LOT/of vexing gyrations travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not necessary...! *: )* */~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/* ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Tec Net Sunday
Paul, the TR PTO's are different from the T-4/R-4 ones. They cover 600 kHz and their dial calibrations are different. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Paul Gerhardt phgerha...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 10:03 AM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Drake Tec Net Sunday Was great to check into the Drake Tech Net on Sunday PM on 7238 at 2000Z, thanks to all the stations who offered some insights to the PTO and Filter questions I had. With the cold WX and the INRAD sale I thought I would consider buying a new filter but will keep looking for a used one to replace the Bad Tedford 8 pole in the TR-4. I did buy some matched crystals and may try a homebrew 4 pole and see how it 'plays' I recently received a nice little 4 plole circuit board from kits and parts unfortunately it is just a bit too wide to fit in the original holder. While continuing to look for a 'stock' unit I have collected some parts to try to make one but have not gotten one to sound good yet. I put some of my notes on my blog http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com. Several mentioned the problem of having to get two filters an equal distance from the carrier freq and the cost of two INRAD is not justified (to me anyway). Did some more reading on the PTO and it seems like the T4Xb PTO should work well in the TR-4. After redoing the T4 PTO I will probably try to clean the TR-4 PTO bearing and maybe add the braid to the 'fork' on it. These two issues are on my winter list for the Drake radios. Paul Gerhardt K3PG http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com QRP ARCI 6674 FP 274 You must do this work with love or you fail. -- John Muir, from How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Tec Net Sunday
Paul - I wonder who was on the net with that information?!? Basic problem... The T-4XB PTO covers 500 kHz. (5.455 - 4.955 MHz) The TR-4 PTO covers 600 kHz. (4.90 - 5.50 MHz) I guess if you can do without the bottom 100 kHz of each band it's ok. :-) The output is also typically about 30% higher from the TR-4 PTO. Other than that ... 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Paul Gerhardt wrote: Did some more reading on the PTO and it seems like the T4Xb PTO should work well in the TR-4. After redoing the T4 PTO I will probably try to clean the TR-4 PTO bearing and maybe add the braid to the 'fork' on it. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Source for pots?
I couldn't find a match in Mouser's catalogue for the 500-ohm, plastic-shaft pot that's used for setting the S-Meter Zero on the side of the 4-line receivers. Does anyone here know of a source? Still looking... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, SPOT FUNCTION TUNE UP
In a message dated 1/2/2012 10:41:28 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net writes: http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html Ron: That is exactly how I tune up my B line with the spot function and peak the plate and preselector I have been doing it that way for a few years and that is why I noticed the spot not working any longer. Still no out put other than idle current when in tune position or when PTT is pressed now Maybe a blown Diode or cap in Power supply??What do you think? 73 de Fred WD8ADG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Source for pots?
Steve - I don't think there is a mechanical equivalent being made today. Best chance is a donor unit. It's a fairly standard (for the time) CTS pot, and may be possible to replace just the element if you can find a regular bushing mount style. You may or may not be able to salvage the plastic shaft. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Steve Wedge wrote: I couldn't find a match in Mouser's catalogue for the 500-ohm, plastic-shaft pot that's used for setting the S-Meter Zero on the side of the 4-line receivers. Does anyone here know of a source? Still looking... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, SPOT FUNCTION TUNE UP
If you're still able to receive using the transmitter to control, then your supply is probably okay, since the low-level tubes use the same +250V supply (other than PA plate and bias). If you're still getting 70mA of idle current, that would make it likely that your PA plate and bias supplies are also okay. Loss of any of the low-level part of the chain will give you no output. Check all the oscillators for signal presence. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. From: fjmel...@aol.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 10:57 AM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, SPOT FUNCTION TUNE UP In a message dated 1/2/2012 10:41:28 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net writes: http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html Ron: That is exactly how I tune up my B line with the spot function and peak the plate and preselector I have been doing it that way for a few years and that is why I noticed the spot not working any longer. Still no out put other than idle current when in tune position or when PTT is pressed now Maybe a blown Diode or cap in Power supply??What do you think? 73 de Fred WD8ADG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Source for pots?
Yeah, I was going to steal one from my TR-3 boneyard special, but someone else beat me to it. I have two in my T-4XB parts unit, but, of course, they're different values. I'm repeating to myself, I will never again remove the nuts from a Drake meter, I will never again remove the nuts from a Drake meter... 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 10:59 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Source for pots? Steve - I don't think there is a mechanical equivalent being made today. Best chance is a donor unit. It's a fairly standard (for the time) CTS pot, and may be possible to replace just the element if you can find a regular bushing mount style. You may or may not be able to salvage the plastic shaft. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Steve Wedge wrote: I couldn't find a match in Mouser's catalogue for the 500-ohm, plastic-shaft pot that's used for setting the S-Meter Zero on the side of the 4-line receivers. Does anyone here know of a source? Still looking... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER
Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot. I have had one for more than 25 years. It is a very good idea to replace all of the capacitors in it as the electrolytics are shot by now, and the black beauties are not in the best of shape, either. Before I replaced the black beauties, the speed of the keyer would vary quite a bit with changes in humidity. Mine has some quirks with the power supply and VR tubes, but it still works very well. I will eventually get those sorted out, too. 73, Steve WA9JML On 1/2/2012 7:15 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my right hand is raised!), then one can through a /LOT/of vexing gyrations travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not necessary...! *: )* */~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/* ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] T4XB ADVICE needed...
Howdee Fellow Drakeheads! I have a B-line that I am trying to put back in service. It worked FB a couple of years ago and then I didn't use it much for about a year and then moved and it spent another year on the shelf. The R4B works great, but the T4XB has a prollem. I wonder if any of you gurus can help. It will tune up and make RF on 160/80/40, but the peak of the RF tune control on 40 occurs in the 160/80 area of the control, not in the 40 meter area. The other thing is that there is no RF at all above 40 meters on any of the bands. Is this something that is common...er whut? I will be looking at stuff but I thought I would ask and see if there is knowledge here on where to start? Thanks a bunch es 73 de Dan -- WAØJRD .. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T4XB ADVICE needed...
Dan - Several possibilities. First try exercising the BAND and FUNCTION switches. A little DeoxIT would be a big help. Next, unplug and replug the crystals, again with a little DeoxIT. You say it makes RF on 160 / 80 / 40. I assume you have the optional 160M crystal (12.6 MHz) in one of the extra sockets? First question is, is the RF _in the right place_ .?? A failure of anything in the PreMixer signal (PTO or BAND oscillators) will allow the transmitter to tune up on 5.645 MHz (Carrier Oscillator frequency) around 3 or 7 on the RF TUNE linear scale. If you connect it in TRANSCEIVE under RCVR control does it work?? 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Daniel Wright wrote: Howdee Fellow Drakeheads! I have a B-line that I am trying to put back in service. It worked FB a couple of years ago and then I didn't use it much for about a year and then moved and it spent another year on the shelf. The R4B works great, but the T4XB has a prollem. I wonder if any of you gurus can help. It will tune up and make RF on 160/80/40, but the peak of the RF tune control on 40 occurs in the 160/80 area of the control, not in the 40 meter area. The other thing is that there is no RF at all above 40 meters on any of the bands. Is this something that is common...er whut? I will be looking at stuff but I thought I would ask and see if there is knowledge here on where to start? Thanks a bunch es 73 de Dan -- WAØJRD .. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER
To go even more Off Topic... YES Curt, you will like it a lot! W9TO was the designer, hence the name. As a 15 year old kid in 1967 I built my version in our high school electronics shop class. It has never missed a DIT since! As a confirmed Drake lover even back then, I folded up a Drake style chassis/box so it matched my R-4A. As a kid, and as my first attempt at using a sheet metal brake and sheer, it came out a little bit big, but it still matched Drake pretty well if I don't say so myself... My request: I built it from a design in (I am pretty sure) in a 1959 W6SAI Radio Handbook than my dad (SK) had. As copy machines hadn't been invented yet(!?) I of course don't have a copy. DOES ANYONE have this manual and could make me a copy of the article so I at least have a schematic in case it ever breaks??? Or even just confirm that there is indeed a W9TO keyer in there. I have googled and found that there was a pdf copy on line at one time but it seems to have gone away.. TIA and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all, 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Steve Berg wa9...@tbc.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:51:59 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot. I have had one for more than 25 years. It is a very good idea to replace all of the capacitors in it as the electrolytics are shot by now, and the black beauties are not in the best of shape, either. Before I replaced the black beauties, the speed of the keyer would vary quite a bit with changes in humidity. Mine has some quirks with the power supply and VR tubes, but it still works very well. I will eventually get those sorted out, too. 73, Steve WA9JML On 1/2/2012 7:15 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my right hand is raised!), then one can through a /LOT/of vexing gyrations travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not necessary...! *: )* */~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/* ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T4XB ADVICE needed...
Dan, if you haven't touched any of the adjustments, you may have dirty rotary switch contacts. Try exercising the BAND switch all the way back-and-forth about a dozen times. Also, I'm not 100% remembering how those bevel gears inside are attached to the BAND switch, but you might also want to check them as well. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Daniel Wright dwrigh...@neb.rr.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 12:19 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] T4XB ADVICE needed... Howdee Fellow Drakeheads! I have a B-line that I am trying to put back in service. It worked FB a couple of years ago and then I didn't use it much for about a year and then moved and it spent another year on the shelf. The R4B works great, but the T4XB has a prollem. I wonder if any of you gurus can help. It will tune up and make RF on 160/80/40, but the peak of the RF tune control on 40 occurs in the 160/80 area of the control, not in the 40 meter area. The other thing is that there is no RF at all above 40 meters on any of the bands. Is this something that is common...er whut? I will be looking at stuff but I thought I would ask and see if there is knowledge here on where to start? Thanks a bunch es 73 de Dan -- WAØJRD .. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (almost) completed
I just finished rebuilding my AC-4 power supply with the capacitor kit from Hayseed. Here is a page with pictures and a description: http://www.n1vqw.net/ac4rebuild/ The reason for the almost is I still have to add a relay in the transformer primary to reduce the load on the On/Off switch. Comments and suggestions welcome. Enjoy. 73 - Mark N1VQW ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (almost) completed
Good job, Mark!! Thanks for documenting that one for all of us. It does look great, and is definitely a good alternative for those that want the original look. Please do document your relay addition. I have one of those on a Collins 516F2 that I bought with an S1 Line, and it does help the switch greatly. Tom has always done a great job on all the kits he has put together for me. He will be honest and tell you that the AC4R kit is cheaper, that's just the way Tom is, but he does make a VERY good product as I have said before. He will make right problems too. I found out that there are two different can caps for the R-388 Collins, one being nearly 1 longer than the other. A quick email to Tom that I must have gotten the wrong one, and I got the right one from him right away. First rate in my book and I own NO stock in Tom's company, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins
The first reference to this procedure that I know of was from Jan 1977 HR mag in a hints and kinks style post by W7DIM. He says you can even peak up the LOAD control... Like Garey, I make a table of all settings and just set them from that. I need to set my Heath antenna tuner too. Just a slight touch up then is all that is needed, and if its a good DX or something, maybe not even a touch ;-) 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: kc9...@aol.com To: wd8...@yahoo.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 15:29:51 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Just be sure the LAST thing you do is dip the plate current so you are resonant. This is at the final power setting (fully tuned up) I am so fast at tuning for MAX smoke that I think I am very kind to the finals. Probably a more important thing is use a small AUX fan for cooling...I just set mine on top suck the air OUT. That baby runs nice cool. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Ron To: drakelist Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 5:37 am Subject: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Just read someones post about being new to the Drake community. Well the archives have a great amount of information, unfortunately it is difficult to go through and catch everything. The following is a gem IMO for the owners of Drake twins. I do not take credit for the idea, just want to pass it on to new folks in our community. http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins
Oh, sorry. Well I used a table ;-) But of course RF TUNE and GAIN is easy. And like you I am (currently) limited to using a Kenwood modified to run an Icom remote tuner hooked to only about a 15ft mostly vertical wire along side a small tree trunk... NO chart needed, I do love auto-tune!! 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com To: Gary Winblad garywinb...@comcast.net Cc: kc9...@aol.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 19:37:26 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Gary - One thing I do NOT have a 'table of all settings'. The PLATE and LOAD should end up 'around' 10 - 11 o'clock for a 50 ohm load. Close enough for starters. The RF TUNE control is 'calibrated' for frequency, and the GAIN control should also end up 'around' 10 o'clock for SSB/TUNE, somewhat higher for CW. These settings are close for all bands, with a few exceptions for the LOAD on the higher (11 - 1 o'clock) and lowest (9 - 10 o'clock). An antenna tuner is a whole nother thing. Here a chart can be very helpful. Currently I'm limited to a 44' attic dipole with ladder line to an LDG auto tuner in the closet. Just tap the key and the LDG is there and I just tune into a 50 ohm load! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Gary Winblad wrote: The first reference to this procedure that I know of was from Jan 1977 HR mag in a hints and kinks style post by W7DIM. He says you can even peak up the LOAD control... Like Garey, I make a table of all settings and just set them from that. I need to set my Heath antenna tuner too. Just a slight touch up then is all that is needed, and if its a good DX or something, maybe not even a touch ;-) 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: kc9...@aol.com To: wd8...@yahoo.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 15:29:51 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Just be sure the LAST thing you do is dip the plate current so you are resonant. This is at the final power setting (fully tuned up) I am so fast at tuning for MAX smoke that I think I am very kind to the finals. Probably a more important thing is use a small AUX fan for cooling...I just set mine on top suck the air OUT. That baby runs nice cool. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Ron To: drakelist Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 5:37 am Subject: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Just read someones post about being new to the Drake community. Well the archives have a great amount of information, unfortunately it is difficult to go through and catch everything. The following is a gem IMO for the owners of Drake twins. I do not take credit for the idea, just want to pass it on to new folks in our community. http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Sherwood Mods video
Hi Guys, I was tuning around on 15 meter CW this morning and I had my Ipad handy, so I made another video. (Oh no, not another one). This one is shorter. With all the recent discussion of the Sherwood mods I demonstrated the 600hz cw filter somewhat. The band wasn't crowded enough to demonstrate selectivity improvements, but I showed it in action anyway. I even made a DX contact in the process. Making these little videos is kinda fun. Stop me before I film again! Here is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R3ZVDQs4z8 73, Bob K6GGO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER
Gary - The 'TO Keyer' was never published!! I have a copy somewhere of the original schematic made by Jim Ricks, W9TO, that he sent out to interested individuals. Apparently he was already in talks with Bill Halligan to market it, as the schematic was marked 'do not distribute' or something to that effect. I also have a '59 Handbook here (I think that's the brown one) and will see if I can find it. I believe it's on the internet as well. Here is one location. http://www.4shared.com/office/U11xlK2Z/1959_-_The_radio_handbook_15th.html A quick scan of the INDEX does not show an electronic keyer of any kind. May have been a later edition. My first keyer was built about 1959 from an old (then!) QST article. Had a 2D21 Thyratron, a 12AT7 divider, and an 0A2 regulator. It worked 'ok' but was extremely sensitive to line voltage changes. Unfortunately my Mom got a new electric skillet for Christmas that same year, and while I'm trying to NCS a net upstairs she's fixing dinner in the kitchen. Every time that @%$# skillet would turn ON (or OFF) the line voltage would shift enough that I had to readjust the thyratron for the correct speed. Made things interesting! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Gary Winblad wrote: To go even more Off Topic... YES Curt, you will like it a lot! W9TO was the designer, hence the name. As a 15 year old kid in 1967 I built my version in our high school electronics shop class. It has never missed a DIT since! As a confirmed Drake lover even back then, I folded up a Drake style chassis/box so it matched my R-4A. As a kid, and as my first attempt at using a sheet metal brake and sheer, it came out a little bit big, but it still matched Drake pretty well if I don't say so myself... My request: I built it from a design in (I am pretty sure) in a 1959 W6SAI Radio Handbook than my dad (SK) had. As copy machines hadn't been invented yet(!?) I of course don't have a copy. DOES ANYONE have this manual and could make me a copy of the article so I at least have a schematic in case it ever breaks??? Or even just confirm that there is indeed a W9TO keyer in there. I have googled and found that there was a pdf copy on line at one time but it seems to have gone away.. TIA and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all, 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Steve Berg wa9...@tbc.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:51:59 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot. I have had one for more than 25 years. It is a very good idea to replace all of the capacitors in it as the electrolytics are shot by now, and the black beauties are not in the best of shape, either. Before I replaced the black beauties, the speed of the keyer would vary quite a bit with changes in humidity. Mine has some quirks with the power supply and VR tubes, but it still works very well. I will eventually get those sorted out, too. 73, Steve WA9JML On 1/2/2012 7:15 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my right hand is raised!), then one can through a /LOT/of vexing gyrations travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not necessary...! *: )* */~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/* ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,Drake Tuner MN-2000 and others
Just a note about keeping settings for your antenna tuner (MN-2000) . I still keep a log book for my station and in the log book under the heading for signal reports received and sent I added a reactance and resistance heading in those columns and write in the setting in those spaces. Just a little helpful hint if you still keep a station log book. Have fun. 73 de Fred WD8ADG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER
Gary - My keyer was in QST for December !954. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Gary Winblad wrote: To go even more Off Topic... YES Curt, you will like it a lot! W9TO was the designer, hence the name. As a 15 year old kid in 1967 I built my version in our high school electronics shop class. It has never missed a DIT since! As a confirmed Drake lover even back then, I folded up a Drake style chassis/box so it matched my R-4A. As a kid, and as my first attempt at using a sheet metal brake and sheer, it came out a little bit big, but it still matched Drake pretty well if I don't say so myself... My request: I built it from a design in (I am pretty sure) in a 1959 W6SAI Radio Handbook than my dad (SK) had. As copy machines hadn't been invented yet(!?) I of course don't have a copy. DOES ANYONE have this manual and could make me a copy of the article so I at least have a schematic in case it ever breaks??? Or even just confirm that there is indeed a W9TO keyer in there. I have googled and found that there was a pdf copy on line at one time but it seems to have gone away.. TIA and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all, 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Steve Berg wa9...@tbc.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:51:59 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot. I have had one for more than 25 years. It is a very good idea to replace all of the capacitors in it as the electrolytics are shot by now, and the black beauties are not in the best of shape, either. Before I replaced the black beauties, the speed of the keyer would vary quite a bit with changes in humidity. Mine has some quirks with the power supply and VR tubes, but it still works very well. I will eventually get those sorted out, too. 73, Steve WA9JML On 1/2/2012 7:15 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my right hand is raised!), then one can through a /LOT/of vexing gyrations travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not necessary...! *: )* */~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/* ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Creeping plate current
I noticed my plate current creeping up and up and up while using my C line today...fortunately I think I turned it off in time to save the finals (I hope) I'm guessing I lost the bias supply (cap ?) would that be your first stop too? John K5MO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (almost) completed
Looks nice, Mark. The relay sounds like a good idea that I may have to steal... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Mark Pilant n1...@arrl.net Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 1:55 PM To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (almost) completed I just finished rebuilding my AC-4 power supply with the capacitor kit from Hayseed. Here is a page with pictures and a description: http://www.n1vqw.net/ac4rebuild/ The reason for the almost is I still have to add a relay in the transformer primary to reduce the load on the On/Off switch. Comments and suggestions welcome. Enjoy. 73 - Mark N1VQW ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins
I've found that I can sometimes peak the LOAD control, but typically still have to peak it once I put power out. I also run a 12V muffin fan over the final compartment, blowing UP. It keeps everything nice and cool in that cage. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. From: Gary Winblad Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 2:25 PM To: kc9...@aol.com Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins The first reference to this procedure that I know of was from Jan 1977 HR mag in a hints and kinks style post by W7DIM. He says you can even peak up the LOAD control... Like Garey, I make a table of all settings and just set them from that. I need to set my Heath antenna tuner too. Just a slight touch up then is all that is needed, and if its a good DX or something, maybe not even a touch ;-) 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: kc9...@aol.com To: wd8...@yahoo.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 15:29:51 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Just be sure the LAST thing you do is dip the plate current so you are resonant. This is at the final power setting (fully tuned up) I am so fast at tuning for MAX smoke that I think I am very kind to the finals. Probably a more important thing is use a small AUX fan for cooling...I just set mine on top suck the air OUT. That baby runs nice cool. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Ron To: drakelist Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 5:37 am Subject: [Drakelist] kind to finals tuneup for the twins Just read someones post about being new to the Drake community. Well the archives have a great amount of information, unfortunately it is difficult to go through and catch everything. The following is a gem IMO for the owners of Drake twins. I do not take credit for the idea, just want to pass it on to new folks in our community. http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, SPOT FUNCTION TUNE UP
Fixed the R-4B problems: found a 200-ohm pot by the same manufacturer, but it didn't have the mounting tabs, so I disassembled the old one and the new one and transplanted the mount onto the new pot. 200 ohms seems to offer enough adjustment range for the S-meter. I then found that most of my problems were from [a] the reattached 150-ohm cathode resistor to V1 was shorting to the shielding around the bandswitch, and [b] the coax from the PTO filter board to V8 was shorted due to the centre conductor getting melted and touching the braid. Both wounds were self-inflicted. The rig is working on all bands now, but the PTO is mechanically unstable. If push comes to shove, I'll swap in the extra PTO I have, but I'm going to set the shaft tension as soon as I'm done with my email... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. From: fjmel...@aol.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 2:37 PM To: w1es1...@earthlink.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, SPOT FUNCTION TUNE UP John: I hope you find the trouble with your B line too. Good luck and don't let it push you over the edge. You words of wisdom are interesting. 73 de Fred WD8ADG___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Filters
Hello group: This may be a silly question but, do XTAL filters wear out? I bought a .5, and a 2.5 stock Drake filters for 100 bucks for the both of them... They ring so badly, they are useless... BTW, they are installed in a R4-C, if it makes a difference... Very 73 ... John ...___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Source for pots?
Steve, Elecraft uses control pots with black plastic shafts. They sell replacements, though perhaps only to kit purchasers. Elecraft buys from ordinary distributors so these pots are still available. As I recall these types did not have screwdriver slots but you could cut that yourself. Another idea is to use conventional metal shaft pots designed for screw adjustment such as made by Allen Bradley years ago. Our junk boxes are full of them. You could wrap the shaft in black tape for insulation and color match, then use a Sharpie to blacken the exposed slotted tip. Or maybe just spray the shaft with a couple of coats of enamel. From a distance, it should look close to stock. Dennis AE6C On 1/2/12, Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net wrote: I couldn't find a match in Mouser's catalogue for the 500-ohm, plastic-shaft pot that's used for setting the S-Meter Zero on the side of the 4-line receivers. Does anyone here know of a source? Still looking... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Filters
Crystals age and shift frequency, sometimes they quit all together. You can purchase new filters from Sherwood or INRAD. Buying used filters or crystals is risky. 73, Gary___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Filters
Maybe wear out isn't the best term. Crystals can drift (sometimes badly) and they can do that while just sitting dormant. It is also true that many of the older crystal filter designs paid scant attention to phase characteristics, basically just designing for best possible skirts. These filters were hard to listen to when they were new! In other words you may have filters in which some of the crystals have drifted or you may have filters that were always this way. Modern crystal filter design and DSP filters do pay attention to phase and depending upon type can be easier on the ears. We get used to the new stuff and maybe we don't like the old stuff as much as we remembered :-) Just a theory. Dennis AE6C On 1/2/12, John Schroeder dmir2...@yahoo.com wrote: Hello group: This may be a silly question but, do XTAL filters wear out? I bought a .5, and a 2.5 stock Drake filters for 100 bucks for the both of them... They ring so badly, they are useless... BTW, they are installed in a R4-C, if it makes a difference... Very 73 ... John ... ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current
That would be my first guess, John. Have you rebuilt the AC4?? If not, it's Heathkit Shop time, hi. I don't think I'd do the bias cap and leave the other time bombs in there myself. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER
Yup. I had to learn that the hard way. I restored a TO for our club and when I finished with the new caps I plugged it inon its side. Circuit works, but no keying. The relay must be bad. For the first time I looked closely at the relay and then the light build went off in my head. Turned the unit over and it worked fine. FYI. Some folks find the sidetone annoying. It's just a sawtooth from a neon bulb relaxation oscillator. So I inserted a series resonant LC circuit directly in series iwth the secondary of T2. I used what I had in the junkbox that provided a decent Q at the chosen note (31mH torroid and 1.33uF worth of parallel mylars). If the network is too lossy the amplitude will be affected and the harmonic attentuation not as effective. This basically translates into chosing a decent inductor that doesn't have a high series resistance. I opted for a tone (750Hz) that was a little lower than what Hallicrafters used so the timing capacitor across the NE2 got padded with 160pF to bring the series LC into resonance (peaking the amplitude in the process). The result was a very pleasing note. The components fit easily under the chassis. Dennis AE6C On 1/2/12, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote: Just don't turn your HA-1 on it's side! Mercury relays don't bounce! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my right hand is raised!), then one can through a /LOT/of vexing gyrations travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not necessary...! *: )* */~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/* ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods video
Nice rig, Bob. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 2:50 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods video Hi Guys, I was tuning around on 15 meter CW this morning and I had my Ipad handy, so I made another video. (Oh no, not another one). This one is shorter. With all the recent discussion of the Sherwood mods I demonstrated the 600hz cw filter somewhat. The band wasn't crowded enough to demonstrate selectivity improvements, but I showed it in action anyway. I even made a DX contact in the process. Making these little videos is kinda fun. Stop me before I film again! Here is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R3ZVDQs4z8 73, Bob K6GGO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current
It would for me. Looks like you lucked out being there when it happened. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: john joh...@nc.rr.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 4:45 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current I noticed my plate current creeping up and up and up while using my C line today...fortunately I think I turned it off in time to save the finals (I hope) I'm guessing I lost the bias supply (cap ?) would that be your first stop too? John K5MO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Source for pots?
Thanks for the insight on the Elecraft parts - will have to check that out. I found a 200-ohm from the same manufacturer, in the same size, but it did not have those bendable mounting tabs, so I took the bad one and the new one apart and swapped the top mounting shell onto the 200-ohm. It appears 200 ohms will allow for enough adjustment, so my immediate problem is solved, but now I'd like to stockpile a few of these puppies... 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Dennis Monticelli dennis.montice...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 5:06 PM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Source for pots? Steve, Elecraft uses control pots with black plastic shafts. They sell replacements, though perhaps only to kit purchasers. Elecraft buys from ordinary distributors so these pots are still available. As I recall these types did not have screwdriver slots but you could cut that yourself. Another idea is to use conventional metal shaft pots designed for screw adjustment such as made by Allen Bradley years ago. Our junk boxes are full of them. You could wrap the shaft in black tape for insulation and color match, then use a Sharpie to blacken the exposed slotted tip. Or maybe just spray the shaft with a couple of coats of enamel. From a distance, it should look close to stock. Dennis AE6C On 1/2/12, Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net wrote: I couldn't find a match in Mouser's catalogue for the 500-ohm, plastic-shaft pot that's used for setting the S-Meter Zero on the side of the 4-line receivers. Does anyone here know of a source? Still looking... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current
You're right! I was in a QSO and noticed it heading towards the peg over a period of 5-10 sec or so. Thought I just needed to redip the finals, but I shut it off fast, when I realized what was happening. Can't recall whether this rig has 6JB6's or 6GJ5's in it. That makes two I need to re-do. Guess it's time to call the Heath Shop and get a kit, since both of these supplies are original, and since I'm under the hood. John K5MO At 06:28 PM 1/2/2012, Steve Wedge wrote: It would for me. Looks like you lucked out being there when it happened. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: john joh...@nc.rr.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 4:45 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current I noticed my plate current creeping up and up and up while using my C line today...fortunately I think I turned it off in time to save the finals (I hope) I'm guessing I lost the bias supply (cap ?) would that be your first stop too? John K5MO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods
The thread for the Sherwood modifications started with Max asking which ones would be useful. In my reply email and others tried to answer the question for Max. Hope this effort was useful to him. I was surprised, however, to see such a staunch group that insists that the Drakes stay pristine. While I do not condone hackers and butchers (have one really sad case now on the bench from some person who cared little of what the radio was), I do believe there are mods that would enhance the use of the radio. For example, would anyone not recommend the grounding braid on a PTO that obviously has lost the ability to provide its own ground? Such a modification enhances the pleasure of the use of the radio. Not doing it keeps that radio generally useless. And so it is for the Sherwood Mods. When I did mine it was on a set that was already partially modified by Sherwood. It was at a point in time where I could not afford anything else than a used set of Drakes. It was my only radio. Modifications to the radio for my purposes made the enjoyment even deeper and it is the reason while 30 years later I still have them. So, while it is purist to state that the Drakes should stay pristine, we all know and accept that those modified with a true and correct intent to fix and enhance the operation was for me, and many, a choice that would have otherwise frustrated us to another hobby. The term different strokes for different folks... How we all use and love our Drake radios is unique. There simply is not a single right or wrong way; so it is with the modifications. Enjoyed the thread. David Assaf, III W5XU -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of kc9...@aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 3:22 PM To: w...@arrl.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods Paul, Absolutely true...Rob Sherwoods design is top notch...and throwing a few parts you find around will NOT get you the same result. There's a lot more to it than those that have not really looked into it or have it would realize. I think for the design, quality of parts and the kind of parts needed Rob's prices are reasonable. The PS and Audio amp...well yes you could roll your own there...but better to just get the board s from him and install it yourself...IF you have the tools abilities. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Jan 1, 2012 1:34 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods Most of Parts for the Sherwood MODS are not cheap...the relays alone for the filter swich board are $20 each + and you need several. Also, you need to be pretty creative to get it all in there...pretty tight in places. Yes, a tight fit, put perfectly manageable. Keep in mind that the Teledyne relays used for the filter switch are designed for RF applications and hence, the high cost. The entire relay board assembly was designed to eliminate filter leakage and blow-by. Take a look at the Sherwood ultimate filter rejection spec and it's easily to see where the buyer's money is going. Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4713 - Release Date: 12/30/11 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4B Oddity
I have an unusual situation underway in my L4B. Evan, you out there? Been working fine until yesterday (i know, well happy new year) one of the 3-400's filaments is half as bright as the other. I reversed the tubes and the same tube was dimmer in the opposite hole, and the amp and supply seems like they're running hotter than normal. HV is normal, but haven't keyed it yet or applied drive. Pwr supply was rebuilt a couple years ago with one of Mike's boards. Has anyone seen a tube fail like this? Being a week after xmas and the YL's birthday Friday, not real anxious to spend 5 big ones on a pair of 3-500's right now, but a guys gotta do what a guys gotta do. 2nd question. I've got one 3-500 spare that I believe to be good. Has anyone ever mixed a 3-400 and a 3-500 in the same amp? Only for testing purposes. Just asking. Rick W9WS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] WTB: T-4XB
Anyone have a good T-4XB that they would be willing to part with? I'm finally going to find a mate for my R-4B. 73, Greg W9VOX Drake TR-3,AC-3,R-4B,MS-4 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Sherwood Mods
Finally a fair and balanced comment by W5XU. If Mr. Robert Drake and Mr. Art Collins were with us today, I believe they would welcome Mr. Rob Sherwood's Mods. It seems both of them always tried to improve their radios, and more than likely would have come up with some if not all of the improvements themselves. So if you own stock Drakes or Collins vs modified, and I am lucky to own many of both, the fact that we hold these classic radios dear to our heart is the bottom line.God Bless to everyone and Happy New Year.73's Ken / K3JWI ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: W9TO KEYER
THANK YOU everyone for all the info. It has been a great trip down memory lane. I been googlin. Garey, I saw several references that you are right, it was never published. Wow, I KNEW I didn't build it from a Hallicrafters manual.. I finally found a reference that must be correct.. it WAS the W6SAI Radio Handbook, but it was the 1962 issue. I pulled the covers off mine and yes, it has the same tube lineup as the HA-1 (including BOTH a 0B2 and an 0A2!!). I remember I got the part layout from the article, it uses a unique dual in line terminal board to hold the resistors and capacitors. All the kid could scrounge was two similar but shorter boards, so that is what is in there. And as someone mentioned, the sidetone is pretty nasty. I was able to cobble in a TONE and VOLUME control that sort of works.. So does anyone have a 1962 version of the W6SAI Handbook or can find a link?? 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com To: Gary Winblad garywinb...@comcast.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 19:59:47 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Gary - The 'TO Keyer' was never published!! I have a copy somewhere of the original schematic made by Jim Ricks, W9TO, that he sent out to interested individuals. Apparently he was already in talks with Bill Halligan to market it, as the schematic was marked 'do not distribute' or something to that effect. I also have a '59 Handbook here (I think that's the brown one) and will see if I can find it. I believe it's on the internet as well. Here is one location. A quick scan of the INDEX does not show an electronic keyer of any kind. May have been a later edition. My first keyer was built about 1959 from an old (then!) QST article. Had a 2D21 Thyratron, a 12AT7 divider, and an 0A2 regulator. It worked 'ok' but was extremely sensitive to line voltage changes. Unfortunately my Mom got a new electric skillet for Christmas that same year, and while I'm trying to NCS a net upstairs she's fixing dinner in the kitchen. Every time that @%$# skillet would turn ON (or OFF) the line voltage would shift enough that I had to readjust the thyratron for the correct speed. Made things interesting! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Gary Winblad wrote: To go even more Off Topic... YES Curt, you will like it a lot! W9TO was the designer, hence the name. As a 15 year old kid in 1967 I built my version in our high school electronics shop class. It has never missed a DIT since! As a confirmed Drake lover even back then, I folded up a Drake style chassis/box so it matched my R-4A. As a kid, and as my first attempt at using a sheet metal brake and sheer, it came out a little bit big, but it still matched Drake pretty well if I don't say so myself... My request: I built it from a design in (I am pretty sure) in a 1959 W6SAI Radio Handbook than my dad (SK) had. As copy machines hadn't been invented yet(!?) I of course don't have a copy. DOES ANYONE have this manual and could make me a copy of the article so I at least have a schematic in case it ever breaks??? Or even just confirm that there is indeed a W9TO keyer in there. I have googled and found that there was a pdf copy on line at one time but it seems to have gone away.. TIA and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all, 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Steve Berg To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:51:59 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot. I have had one for more than 25 years. It is a very good idea to replace all of the capacitors in it as the electrolytics are shot by now, and the black beauties are not in the best of shape, either. Before I replaced the black beauties, the speed of the keyer would vary quite a bit with changes in humidity. Mine has some quirks with the power supply and VR tubes, but it still works very well. I will eventually get those sorted out, too. 73, Steve WA9JML On 1/2/2012 7:15 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying... I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that familiar with the whys wherefores of
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
On the first question, I have heard of the solder melting out of the pins on the filaments of both the 3-500Z and the 3-400's. If that has happened to your tube, you might be able to just re-solder it and be okay. Some have said to silver solder it, but it seems to me that silver solder requires an awful lot of heat and I would be careful doing that. Second question: I wouldn't think that was a good idea, but then I'm no expert, so hope Evan is out there, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods
Well IMHO, I think it's fine to MOD the R-4C as it has some problems (to me anyways) and a stock one while OK...is not that great compared to a good R-4B. When I had the stock R-4C...I liked it but I didn't seem to use it that much...went to the B line I had at the time. After I got the Sherwood R-4C and added one more Sherwood MOD that wasn't already on (The 2.4 KC front end filter set) I really loved the performace and have used it a bunch. One big thing...getting all that heat out of there...this think is ROCK solid after a couple minutes. I usually don't use the roofing filters unless it is weak DX near strong sigs OR a contest week end...but it's nice to have them when needed. Look at rob Sherwood's RXCVR chartyou will see the stock R-4C way down the list...the Sherwood one is still pretty high up there...considering the company it is keeping. Now I am looking for a pristine R-4A...just for nice rag chew smooth audio qso's. And everything is in therealready..or maybe a R-4B if I can't find the A. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: David w...@cox.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 7:12 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods The thread for the Sherwood modifications started with Max asking which ones would be useful. In my reply email and others tried to answer the question for Max. Hope this effort was useful to him. I was surprised, however, to see such a staunch group that insists that the Drakes stay pristine. While I do not condone hackers and butchers (have one really sad case now on the bench from some person who cared little of what the radio was), I do believe there are mods that would enhance the use of the radio. For example, would anyone not recommend the grounding braid on a PTO that obviously has lost the ability to provide its own ground? Such a modification enhances the pleasure of the use of the radio. Not doing it keeps that radio generally useless. And so it is for the Sherwood Mods. When I did mine it was on a set that was already partially modified by Sherwood. It was at a point in time where I could not afford anything else than a used set of Drakes. It was my only radio. Modifications to the radio for my purposes made the enjoyment even deeper and it is the reason while 30 years later I still have them. So, while it is purist to state that the Drakes should stay pristine, we all know and accept that those modified with a true and correct intent to fix and enhance the operation was for me, and many, a choice that would have otherwise frustrated us to another hobby. The term different strokes for different folks... How we all use and love our Drake radios is unique. There simply is not a single right or wrong way; so it is with the modifications. Enjoyed the thread. David Assaf, III W5XU -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of kc9...@aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 3:22 PM To: w...@arrl.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods Paul, Absolutely true...Rob Sherwoods design is top notch...and throwing a few parts you find around will NOT get you the same result. There's a lot more to it than those that have not really looked into it or have it would realize. I think for the design, quality of parts and the kind of parts needed Rob's prices are reasonable. The PS and Audio amp...well yes you could roll your own there...but better to just get the board s from him and install it yourself...IF you have the tools abilities. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Jan 1, 2012 1:34 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods Most of Parts for the Sherwood MODS are not cheap...the relays alone for the filter swich board are $20 each + and you need several. Also, you need to be pretty creative to get it all in there...pretty tight in places. Yes, a tight fit, put perfectly manageable. Keep in mind that the Teledyne relays used for the filter switch are designed for RF applications and hence, the high cost. The entire relay board assembly was designed to eliminate filter leakage and blow-by. Take a look at the Sherwood ultimate filter rejection spec and it's easily to see where the buyer's money is going. Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4713 - Release Date: 12/30/11 ___ Drakelist mailing list
[Drakelist] L4B Plate Choke
I just opened up my L4B to do some minor work on it. I noticed that the plate choke looks like it has overheated - discolored brown around the middle of it. Wonder if anyone has experienced this - common problem with the L4B? Or a symptom that something is wrong? The amp works fine otherwise - good power out, no sign of parasitics. I do work it hard in contests, and run full power in CW. TIA, Wayne N1WR___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods
David, I think you will find that in any group. One group will ONLY stay stock, even going so far as to gut and re-stuff paper caps with new poly caps, remelting beeswax back in the ends! The other group to the other side will make it a whole new radio (look at the reworked TR7 on WB4HFN's site for an example of that!! The braid mod you mentioned was a Drake factory fix to a problem found. There are many such things Drake put out to fix known engineering oversights. They remained in business for MANY years past the sales of the first rigs, and found need to do that for most of the line. That's just not the same thing as the full Monte Sherwood job. What most of us said to the original question was that it was up to how he intended to use the rig and what he expected to get out of it when he was finished with it. If using it from now on, do what you want. If fixing it to use and sell in a few months, you won't get close to your investment back. Most threads get hijacked and twisted, that's one of the problems with lists. In the end, each man (or woman's) gear is theirs, and they should do what they wish with it. If you ask, you should be ready to get ALL views, not just the ones you wanted to get, hi. 73, and enjoy those Drakes, or Frankendrakes, both, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: W9TO KEYER
Hi Gary, I have that handbook, it's on pg 597, 'A 9TO Electronic Key' My book is in pristine condx, I bought it on my honeymoon in 1963, and it's been well cred for since. I can probably flatten it to make scans without hurting it, but it might be out of focus near the center. 73, Al, W8UT www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats Ratty, to Mole On 1/2/2012 8:02 PM, Gary Winblad wrote: THANK YOU everyone for all the info. It has been a great trip down memory lane. I been googlin. Garey, I saw several references that you are right, it was never published. Wow, I KNEW I didn't build it from a Hallicrafters manual.. I finally found a reference that must be correct.. it WAS the W6SAI Radio Handbook, but it was the 1962 issue. I pulled the covers off mine and yes, it has the same tube lineup as the HA-1 (including BOTH a 0B2 and an 0A2!!). I remember I got the part layout from the article, it uses a unique dual in line terminal board to hold the resistors and capacitors. All the kid could scrounge was two similar but shorter boards, so that is what is in there. And as someone mentioned, the sidetone is pretty nasty. I was able to cobble in a TONE and VOLUME control that sort of works.. So does anyone have a 1962 version of the W6SAI Handbook or can find a link?? 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com To: Gary Winblad garywinb...@comcast.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 19:59:47 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Gary - The 'TO Keyer' was never published!! I have a copy somewhere of the original schematic made by Jim Ricks, W9TO, that he sent out to interested individuals. Apparently he was already in talks with Bill Halligan to market it, as the schematic was marked 'do not distribute' or something to that effect. I also have a '59 Handbook here (I think that's the brown one) and will see if I can find it. I believe it's on the internet as well. Here is one location. A quick scan of the INDEX does not show an electronic keyer of any kind. May have been a later edition. My first keyer was built about 1959 from an old (then!) QST article. Had a 2D21 Thyratron, a 12AT7 divider, and an 0A2 regulator. It worked 'ok' but was extremely sensitive to line voltage changes. Unfortunately my Mom got a new electric skillet for Christmas that same year, and while I'm trying to NCS a net upstairs she's fixing dinner in the kitchen. Every time that @%$# skillet would turn ON (or OFF) the line voltage would shift enough that I had to readjust the thyratron for the correct speed. Made things interesting! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Gary Winblad wrote: To go even more Off Topic... YES Curt, you will like it a lot! W9TO was the designer, hence the name. As a 15 year old kid in 1967 I built my version in our high school electronics shop class. It has never missed a DIT since! As a confirmed Drake lover even back then, I folded up a Drake style chassis/box so it matched my R-4A. As a kid, and as my first attempt at using a sheet metal brake and sheer, it came out a little bit big, but it still matched Drake pretty well if I don't say so myself... My request: I built it from a design in (I am pretty sure) in a 1959 W6SAI Radio Handbook than my dad (SK) had. As copy machines hadn't been invented yet(!?) I of course don't have a copy. DOES ANYONE have this manual and could make me a copy of the article so I at least have a schematic in case it ever breaks??? Or even just confirm that there is indeed a W9TO keyer in there. I have googled and found that there was a pdf copy on line at one time but it seems to have gone away.. TIA and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all, 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Steve Berg To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:51:59 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot. I have had one for more than 25 years. It is a very good idea to replace all of the capacitors in it as the electrolytics are shot by now, and the black beauties are not in the best of shape, either. Before I replaced the black beauties, the speed of the keyer would vary quite a bit with changes in humidity. Mine has some quirks with the power supply and VR tubes, but it still works very well. I will eventually get those sorted out, too. 73, Steve WA9JML On 1/2/2012 7:15 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote: On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote: Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also. Same keyer basically. */Hi Curt,/* I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the /Hallicrafters TO/keyer
[Drakelist] what's with all the increased drakelist traffic
mind you I'm not complaining, but in the last couple days seems like the list traffic has EXPLODED ! Chuck, K1OM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: W9TO KEYER
Al, The HA-1 manual is on edebris.com for the downloading in pdf unless the original article has more info. Shame to mess up your vintage handbook if the schematic is all he needs. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
Do a very close and careful check of the filament pins on the tube. The tube sockets used were notorious for relaxing the friction connection on the pins; the higher resistance created heat and the solder of the pins flowed out. The fix is to resolder the pins Careful not to overheat David Assaf, III W5XU -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of richard radke Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 6:31 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity I have an unusual situation underway in my L4B. Evan, you out there? Been working fine until yesterday (i know, well happy new year) one of the 3-400's filaments is half as bright as the other. I reversed the tubes and the same tube was dimmer in the opposite hole, and the amp and supply seems like they're running hotter than normal. HV is normal, but haven't keyed it yet or applied drive. Pwr supply was rebuilt a couple years ago with one of Mike's boards. Has anyone seen a tube fail like this? Being a week after xmas and the YL's birthday Friday, not real anxious to spend 5 big ones on a pair of 3-500's right now, but a guys gotta do what a guys gotta do. 2nd question. I've got one 3-500 spare that I believe to be good. Has anyone ever mixed a 3-400 and a 3-500 in the same amp? Only for testing purposes. Just asking. Rick W9WS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4719 - Release Date: 01/02/12 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] what's with all the increased drakelist traffic
Too damn cold to work on the antenna. Mike, wb8vge On Jan 2, 2012, at 8:38 PM, Chuck Grandgent wrote: mind you I'm not complaining, but in the last couple days seems like the list traffic has EXPLODED ! Chuck, K1OM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods
Thank you both for the comments and the affirmation. Yes, it is indeed the Owner of the radio that determines the best for him and for his needs. I marvel at the asking price for the Sherwood R4c radios. I do not know if they get the for that cost, but for me at my time, what money I put into my radios enhanced my dedication to them, not destroyed it. I was aware of the braid issue, yet many would say if it did not have it from the factory that it was wrong to fix a broken radio!. Thanks for your gentle reply. As I age I see the huge variety of answers to such a simple question that Max proposed. David Assaf, III W5XU -Original Message- From: Don Cunningham [mailto:d...@martineer.net] Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 7:28 PM To: David; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods David, I think you will find that in any group. One group will ONLY stay stock, even going so far as to gut and re-stuff paper caps with new poly caps, remelting beeswax back in the ends! The other group to the other side will make it a whole new radio (look at the reworked TR7 on WB4HFN's site for an example of that!! The braid mod you mentioned was a Drake factory fix to a problem found. There are many such things Drake put out to fix known engineering oversights. They remained in business for MANY years past the sales of the first rigs, and found need to do that for most of the line. That's just not the same thing as the full Monte Sherwood job. What most of us said to the original question was that it was up to how he intended to use the rig and what he expected to get out of it when he was finished with it. If using it from now on, do what you want. If fixing it to use and sell in a few months, you won't get close to your investment back. Most threads get hijacked and twisted, that's one of the problems with lists. In the end, each man (or woman's) gear is theirs, and they should do what they wish with it. If you ask, you should be ready to get ALL views, not just the ones you wanted to get, hi. 73, and enjoy those Drakes, or Frankendrakes, both, Don, WB5HAK - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4719 - Release Date: 01/02/12 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: W9TO KEYER
Hi Al,OGD Thanks for the confirmation it is in there. NO, don't wreck your book to do it.. not that important. Thanks to other Drakers(?) I now have the HA-1 manual and that should always let me fix it (not that it has ever needed anything since 1967 anyway). Buying radio books on your honeymoon? Wow, you are as sick as me, I remember buying a new vernier drive for my old SBE SB-34 when we went past the factory on my honeymoon. 73 and Happy New Year, Gary WB6 - Original Message - From: Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com To: Gary Winblad garywinb...@comcast.net Cc: k4...@mindspring.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 01:30:01 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: W9TO KEYER Hi Gary, I have that handbook, it's on pg 597, 'A 9TO Electronic Key' My book is in pristine condx, I bought it on my honeymoon in 1963, and it's been well cred for since. I can probably flatten it to make scans without hurting it, but it might be out of focus near the center. 73, Al, W8UT www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats Ratty, to Mole On 1/2/2012 8:02 PM, Gary Winblad wrote: THANK YOU everyone for all the info. It has been a great trip down memory lane. I been googlin. Garey, I saw several references that you are right, it was never published. Wow, I KNEW I didn't build it from a Hallicrafters manual.. I finally found a reference that must be correct.. it WAS the W6SAI Radio Handbook, but it was the 1962 issue. I pulled the covers off mine and yes, it has the same tube lineup as the HA-1 (including BOTH a 0B2 and an 0A2!!). I remember I got the part layout from the article, it uses a unique dual in line terminal board to hold the resistors and capacitors. All the kid could scrounge was two similar but shorter boards, so that is what is in there. And as someone mentioned, the sidetone is pretty nasty. I was able to cobble in a TONE and VOLUME control that sort of works.. So does anyone have a 1962 version of the W6SAI Handbook or can find a link?? 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell To: Gary Winblad Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 19:59:47 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Gary - The 'TO Keyer' was never published!! I have a copy somewhere of the original schematic made by Jim Ricks, W9TO, that he sent out to interested individuals. Apparently he was already in talks with Bill Halligan to market it, as the schematic was marked 'do not distribute' or something to that effect. I also have a '59 Handbook here (I think that's the brown one) and will see if I can find it. I believe it's on the internet as well. Here is one location. A quick scan of the INDEX does not show an electronic keyer of any kind. May have been a later edition. My first keyer was built about 1959 from an old (then!) QST article. Had a 2D21 Thyratron, a 12AT7 divider, and an 0A2 regulator. It worked 'ok' but was extremely sensitive to line voltage changes. Unfortunately my Mom got a new electric skillet for Christmas that same year, and while I'm trying to NCS a net upstairs she's fixing dinner in the kitchen. Every time that @%$# skillet would turn ON (or OFF) the line voltage would shift enough that I had to readjust the thyratron for the correct speed. Made things interesting! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Gary Winblad wrote: To go even more Off Topic... YES Curt, you will like it a lot! W9TO was the designer, hence the name. As a 15 year old kid in 1967 I built my version in our high school electronics shop class. It has never missed a DIT since! As a confirmed Drake lover even back then, I folded up a Drake style chassis/box so it matched my R-4A. As a kid, and as my first attempt at using a sheet metal brake and sheer, it came out a little bit big, but it still matched Drake pretty well if I don't say so myself... My request: I built it from a design in (I am pretty sure) in a 1959 W6SAI Radio Handbook than my dad (SK) had. As copy machines hadn't been invented yet(!?) I of course don't have a copy. DOES ANYONE have this manual and could make me a copy of the article so I at least have a schematic in case it ever breaks??? Or even just confirm that there is indeed a W9TO keyer in there. I have googled and found that there was a pdf copy on line at one time but it seems to have gone away.. TIA and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all, 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Steve Berg To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:51:59 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot. I have had one for
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 19:41:59 -0600, David wrote: Do a very close and careful check of the filament pins on the tube. The tube sockets used were notorious for relaxing the friction connection on the pins; the higher resistance created heat and the solder of the pins flowed out. The fix is to resolder the pins Careful not to overheat I've fixed two tubes this way. Google finds plenty of documentation on this problem, and tips on how to solder safely and what kind of solder to use. Mostly on the Amps reflector, IIRC. There may be some info in the Drakelist archive, I think this has come up before. You want a high temperature solder alloy, generic tin/lead is not recommended. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 19:28:29 -0600, Don Cunningham wrote: The braid mod you mentioned was a Drake factory fix to a problem found. There are many such things Drake put out to fix known engineering oversights. That brings up the point that even factory mods can be poor engineering. Case in point, the Drake-published all-band transmit mod for the TR-7 that disables the PLL out-of-lock signal. I can see Drake wanting a quick and simple mod for screwdriver jockeys in the field, but it's just plain bad, and there is a better way. And speaking of bad mods, DrakeMod6 needs to be corrected to remove the advice to reverse the direction FA-7! I proved that this was a bad mod two years ago, but it's still out there and people still believe it. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] what's with all the increased drakelist traffic
I think a lot of us had the day off today There have also been some good, spirited discussions going on. I'm glad to see so many folks participating. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. From: Chuck Grandgent Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 8:38 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] what's with all the increased drakelist traffic mind you I'm not complaining, but in the last couple days seems like the list traffic has EXPLODED ! Chuck, K1OM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist Emoticon1.gif___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
Don - There seems to be a lot of confusion over 'silver solder' and 'silver-bearing solder'. Silver solder melts at around 1300 degree F, and is typically applied with a small torch. It's primarily used for jewelry and other tasks needing a 'hard' solder. I doubt if the glass metal seals around the filament pins of the 3-500Z would withstand that heat without fracturing. I could be wrong... Silver-bearing solder melts at around 700 degrees F, and is applied using our more familiar soldering irons. This solder is used for soldering parts that have metalization 'flashed' onto ceramic or other insulator, such as SMD parts and the famous Tektronix ceramic tie strips used in their scopes. Plain Lead/Tin 63/37% solder will 'leach' the silver out of the flashed metalization, loosening and finally breaking the bond. This is why Tek included small rolls of silver-bearing solder inside their products. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Don Cunningham wrote: On the first question, I have heard of the solder melting out of the pins on the filaments of both the 3-500Z and the 3-400's. If that has happened to your tube, you might be able to just re-solder it and be okay. Some have said to silver solder it, but it seems to me that silver solder requires an awful lot of heat and I would be careful doing that. Second question: I wouldn't think that was a good idea, but then I'm no expert, so hope Evan is out there, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 22:26:58 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote: There seems to be a lot of confusion over 'silver solder' and 'silver-bearing solder'. Indeed, someone edumacated me on the semantics some time back. I've been asked the question often enough that I still have the display card from the solder I used right here on my desk. Alpha Fry 62946, Rosin core, 96% tin/4% silver. Melting point 430F. I think I found it at Ace Hardware. Tips on soldering 3-500Zs from the internet that I found handy were to place the tube in an old sneaker to hold it steady while working, and pack wet paper towel around the junction of the pins under attack and the glass envelope to keep the seal from overheating. I removed as much of the old, crystallized solder as I could with a spring-loaded solder sucker (Soldapullit). Then I used lots of flux and fed in fresh solder, applying heat cautiously until I was sure I had a good joint. Some folks unsolder all the pins and remove them from the tube wires, but I just did the two filament pins. One of the recovered tubes is still in service in my L-7, the other is on the shelf as a spare. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
Thanks for that clarification, Garey. I had never heard of silver-bearing solder. I've told you that I never was in electronics professionally, and only had the minimal USN training for radio ops, not the Electronics Techs that did get the full, good stuff, hi. The silver solder I was referring to I used as a young lad in an electrician's shop and had something to do with an appliance I had to repair. Now, this was 1963 or 64, so forgive my loss of memory on what it was, hi. I remembered using a small torch on a small gas bottle of some sort and it got REALLY hot, much more than I would use on a tube pin. Your explanation tells me now that I was at least partially correct. That said, would you recommend silver-bearing solder in the 3-400/3-500's if we run across this problem in our amps?? I use 63/37 here nearly all the time, only use the 60/40 outside on the antenna wires in a larger size and was afraid the 63/37 would melt too easily. 73,and thanks as always, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods
This may be true but I can tell you I purchased a lot of new Drake gear from Drake dealers and when I ever talked to the factory regarding them, without naming names, it was expressed very clearly each and every time their/his disfavor of those mods. I happen to agree with those remarks. I would never consider them. In fact, I am thinking of starting a new Drake reflector or wish someone else would open one where it would be forbidden to discuss foreign mods except for those really needed because of lack of old parts. I personally consider the mods offensive and consider a radio with these mods no longer a Drake product. I know not everyone agrees with me, but I know some may agree with me. Don’t get me wrong. If you own a radio, I believe you can do anything you want with it and you can believe anything you want about your mods. I just don’t agree with this philosophy at all. I am not trying to start a war here or call someone stupid for altering his Drake gear. I am not telling you you are nuts for doing this but I would consider myself foolish for installing them in my Drake radios. Those are my thoughts. If I was going to buy a radio with them, I would discount the value before making an offer. If my offer would be accepted, I would remove the mods and if they were too extensive, I’d refuse to buy the radio in the first place. Again, these are my feelings and I don’t expect someone else with other ideas to have to conform to my standards. Just do what you want to do. I also enjoy using my unmodified C lines more then my B line. Again, I know some don’t agree with this. Thaty’s OK with me. I just know my thoughts do not agree with a lot of things I read on here. There is a British Paraset Group which is really radical, even for me. You are not expected to join unless you agree to only use the built in hand key rather then using an external hand key, bug, or paddle with memory. You also are expected to only use a long wire as operatives used with this transceiver during WW2. Now these are really extreme rules! I could not live up to them so declined membership. But getting back to a real Drake reflector for unmodified Drakes for guys wanting the experience of using a Drake rig as it was offered by Drake without discussion of major mods, is there any interest in a group for guys wanting to discuss their unmodified radios and want to keep them that way? Or am I just a peculiarity among Drake owners? (Easy to set up on Yahoo. I’m really interested in hearing from guys thinking as I do rather then from those saying they would not join a group as I described. Anyone not liking the idea needs not join the new group. Simple enough). I have a lot on my plate and would prefer someone else open such a group, but I’d be willing to do it if nobody else would step up to the plate. If I’m the only guy feeling this way, the idea can just then die and I’ll just keep using my delete key . Again, this is not intended to flame anyone. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 22:07:05 -0600, Don Cunningham wrote: I use 63/37 here nearly all the time, only use the 60/40 outside on the antenna wires in a larger size and was afraid the 63/37 would melt too easily. 63/37 melts at almost the same temp as 60/40, but it has the advantage of going from liquid to solid almost instantly as it cools below the melting point (eutectic), with no plastic range to increase the risk of poor connections. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods
Why would we need yet another group...just use the delete key if the topic is not something you are interested in...simple. I do it all the time, as I belong to MANY groups. Come on guys...if it's OT too much or you are not interested in a particular topic...just hit delete. Just my suggestion...I sure do it sometimes, actually quite often. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: lee pulsa...@embarqmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 11:24 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods This may be true but I can tell you I purchased a lot of new Drake gear from Drake dealers and when I ever talked to the factory regarding them, without naming names, it was expressed very clearly each and every time their/his disfavor of those mods. I happen to agree with those remarks. I would never consider them. In fact, I am thinking of starting a new Drake reflector or wish someone else would open one where it would be forbidden to discuss foreign mods except for those really needed because of lack of old parts. I personally consider the mods offensive and consider a radio with these mods no longer a Drake product. I know not everyone agrees with me, but I know some may agree with me. Don’t get me wrong. If you own a radio, I believe you can do anything you want with it and you can believe anything you want about your mods. I just don’t agree with this philosophy at all. I am not trying to start a war here or call someone stupid for altering his Drake gear. I am not telling you you are nuts for doing this but I would consider myself foolish for installing them in my Drake radios. Those are my thoughts. If I was going to buy a radio with them, I would discount the value before making an offer. If my offer would be accepted, I would remove the mods and if they were too extensive, I’d refuse to buy the radio in the first place. Again, these are my feelings and I don’t expect someone else with other ideas to have to conform to my standards. Just do what you want to do. I also enjoy using my unmodified C lines more then my B line. Again, I know some don’t agree with this. Thaty’s OK with me. I just know my thoughts do not agree with a lot of things I read on here. There is a British Paraset Group which is really radical, even for me. You are not expected to join unless you agree to only use the built in hand key rather then using an external hand key, bug, or paddle with memory. You also are expected to only use a long wire as operatives used with this transceiver during WW2. Now these are really extreme rules! I could not live up to them so declined membership. But getting back to a real Drake reflector for unmodified Drakes for guys wanting the experience of using a Drake rig as it was offered by Drake without discussion of major mods, is there any interest in a group for guys wanting to discuss their unmodified radios and want to keep them that way? Or am I just a peculiarity among Drake owners? (Easy to set up on Yahoo. I’m really interested in hearing from guys thinking as I do rather then from those saying they would not join a group as I described. Anyone not liking the idea needs not join the new group. Simple enough). I have a lot on my plate and would prefer someone else open such a group, but I’d be willing to do it if nobody else would step up to the plate. If I’m the only guy feeling this way, the idea can just then die and I’ll just keep using my delete key . Again, this is not intended to flame anyone. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods
If anyone wants to discuss this off this reflector, you can reach me at: pulsa...@embarqmail.com It would probably be best to do it this way and not tie up this reflector for those having no interest in my idea. Thanks, Lee, w0vt From: lee Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 10:21 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods This may be true but I can tell you I purchased a lot of new Drake gear from Drake dealers and when I ever talked to the factory regarding them, without naming names, it was expressed very clearly each and every time their/his disfavor of those mods. I happen to agree with those remarks. I would never consider them. In fact, I am thinking of starting a new Drake reflector or wish someone else would open one where it would be forbidden to discuss foreign mods except for those really needed because of lack of old parts. I personally consider the mods offensive and consider a radio with these mods no longer a Drake product. I know not everyone agrees with me, but I know some may agree with me. Don’t get me wrong. If you own a radio, I believe you can do anything you want with it and you can believe anything you want about your mods. I just don’t agree with this philosophy at all. I am not trying to start a war here or call someone stupid for altering his Drake gear. I am not telling you you are nuts for doing this but I would consider myself foolish for installing them in my Drake radios. Those are my thoughts. If I was going to buy a radio with them, I would discount the value before making an offer. If my offer would be accepted, I would remove the mods and if they were too extensive, I’d refuse to buy the radio in the first place. Again, these are my feelings and I don’t expect someone else with other ideas to have to conform to my standards. Just do what you want to do. I also enjoy using my unmodified C lines more then my B line. Again, I know some don’t agree with this. Thaty’s OK with me. I just know my thoughts do not agree with a lot of things I read on here. There is a British Paraset Group which is really radical, even for me. You are not expected to join unless you agree to only use the built in hand key rather then using an external hand key, bug, or paddle with memory. You also are expected to only use a long wire as operatives used with this transceiver during WW2. Now these are really extreme rules! I could not live up to them so declined membership. But getting back to a real Drake reflector for unmodified Drakes for guys wanting the experience of using a Drake rig as it was offered by Drake without discussion of major mods, is there any interest in a group for guys wanting to discuss their unmodified radios and want to keep them that way? Or am I just a peculiarity among Drake owners? (Easy to set up on Yahoo. I’m really interested in hearing from guys thinking as I do rather then from those saying they would not join a group as I described. Anyone not liking the idea needs not join the new group. Simple enough). I have a lot on my plate and would prefer someone else open such a group, but I’d be willing to do it if nobody else would step up to the plate. If I’m the only guy feeling this way, the idea can just then die and I’ll just keep using my delete key . Again, this is not intended to flame anyone. Lee, w0vt___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 22:21:32 -0600, lee wrote: This may be true but I can tell you I purchased a lot of new Drake gear from Drake dealers and when I ever talked to the factory regarding them, without naming names, it was expressed very clearly each and every time their/his disfavor of those mods. I wouldn't expect anything else, that's a typical company line. Aside from the obvious warranty and service issues, to publicly show any support for any mods would imply that folks at the factory do not have complete confidence in the product quality. I wouldn't doubt that it would be covered under terms of employment, and could result in an employee losing his job. If I were caught saying such things, publicly or privately, about my company's product, I would fully expect to be called on the carpet by my bosses. It's called loyalty, and it's expected. Is there any interest in a group for guys wanting to discuss their unmodified radios and want to keep them that way? Or am I just a peculiarity among Drake owners? Not me, thanks. I hate to sound like a broken record, but making it mo'better is part of the fun! 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Mods
On Tue, 3 Jan 2012 00:00:49 -0500 (EST), kc9...@aol.com wrote: Why would we need yet another group...just use the delete key if the topic is not something you are interested in...simple. I do it all the time, as I belong to MANY groups. Even easier, set up an email filter to dump incoming mail with certian keywords right into the trash folder. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
