Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Drift

2011-01-02 Thread Carel PA0CMU

Tony,

I don't know if your able to build things yourself. If so, or someone can help 
you, read this:

  http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark4 

or, more universal (RV7)
  
  http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/ksbstabi.htm

I guess it costs you about 10-20 US$ for the components.  Excuses for the minor 
layout of the website, 
I'm working on a complete new XHTML/CSS design that comes soon. If you have any 
questions drop me an e-mail.

Carel - PA0CMU.


 On Sat, 01 Jan 2011 13:49:51 -0500, Richard A. (Tony) Stalls wrote:
 My TR7 drifts around 100-150 Hz PTO during the first hour.  After
 that it calms down a bit, but it still drifts.  I've come up with a
 couple of potential solutions, but to be truthful, I don't know
 enough to competently decide if they're what I want.

..

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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PBT 10K Pots

2010-02-01 Thread Carel PA0CMU

Ron,

 

Most common used type of these pots overhere in the Netherlands (Europe?) is 
the vertical placed (most right picture on my website). How would you like to 
adjust them when mounted on the back of the PCB? If you can get the other, 
horizontal mounted, model (left pica) you can give it a try. 

 

Carel - PA0CMU.

 


 
 Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 02:31:07 -0800
 From: wd8...@yahoo.com
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net; epy...@indy.rr.com
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PBT 10K Pots
 
 While poking around my power supply board this weekend with my intermittent 
 TR7, I thought about change out of the pots. I know I hear that you need to 
 not only change the pots, but also move the fixed resistors to the rear. 
 So
 
 Is there any reason why you can not just mount the multi-turn pots on the 
 rear of the PCB thereby saving the extra rework effort of also moving the 
 fixed resistors?
 
 TNX es 73,
 Ron WD8SBB
 
 --- On Sun, 1/31/10, Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com wrote:
 
  From: Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PBT 10K Pots
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 8:07 PM
  
  
  You need one Bourns 1k pot 3296W-1-102LF for
  the 10 volt
  adjustment, and 5 Bourns 10k pots 3296W-1-103LF for the
  passband
  frequency adjustments.
  
  They are $2.19 each at Newark. You also have to move the
  resistors in
  between the original pots to the backside of the board.
  
  Here is a link to a website that has very good pictures of
  this.
  
  
  
  http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark5
  
  
  73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
  
  
  
  
  At 06:54 PM 1/31/2010, you wrote:
  
  Good
  Afternoon,
  
  
  My TR-7's PBT pots have finally reached the point of
  failing to maintain
  the correct frequency for both U/Lsb. I am going to
  replace all 5
  pots when I
  
  pull the board and was wondering if anyone has had much
  luck finding
  higher quality replacements? I am considering 15-20
  turn types if
  they will fit
  
  into the same space as the originals. I'd rather
  not have to modify
  the board too much, but would like to hear from anyone who
  might have
  tried this.
  
  
  I've looked at Mouser and found some that are close,
  but figured I'd try
  this resource first.
  
  
  Thanks.
  
  
  Robb NĂ˜RU
  
  Woodland Park, CO. 
  
  
  
  
  -Inline Attachment Follows-
  
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Re: [Drakelist] tr-7 readout replacement

2010-01-07 Thread Carel PA0CMU

Hi Dale,

Thanks for the complements. Honour goes to my good friend Rien - PA0TRT, I only 
placed the info on my homepage.

I've
never heard of a puller for the DR-7 board. I use this one by pulling
the rear side of the board first, after disconnecting all wired
connectors. In my TR7 there is enough space to remove the complete
board carefully without unfastening the front or other parts.

Carel.

To: pa0...@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] tr-7 readout replacement
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 11:12:37 -0500
From: y...@aol.com


 Carel

 interesting site,lots of info. I was looking for the puller for the DR-7 board 
or something that could be used in its place.

73's 

dale wt4t



 





 



 



-Original Message-

From: Carel PA0CMU pa0...@hotmail.com

To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net

Sent: Thu, Jan 7, 2010 2:50 am

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] tr-7 readout replacement















Hi all,


 


For a DIY board extractor, see this: 


 


http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark9

 


 


Good luck,


Carel - PA0CMU


 


 

 From: jshor...@inebraska.com

 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net

 Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 16:09:18 -0600

 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] tr-7 readout replacement

 

 On Wed, 06 Jan 2010 11:00:27 -0500, y...@aol.com wrote:

 

 I noticed the tool for pulling the board loose...good idea? should not be 
 hard to fabricate,or is there a better way.

 

 

 A classic metal PC slot cover works very well as a puller for the DR-7.

 

 73

 

 -Jim

 

 

 --

 Ham Radio NU0C

 Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.

 TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
 HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

 

 Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
 will learn for a lifetime.

 

 HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/

 http://radiojim(dot)exofire(dot)net

 http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney

 http://www.nebraskaghosts.org

 

 

 

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Re: [Drakelist] tr-7 readout replacement

2010-01-06 Thread Carel PA0CMU

Hi all,

 

For a DIY board extractor, see this: 

 

http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark9
 

 

Good luck,

Carel - PA0CMU

 

 
 From: jshor...@inebraska.com
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 16:09:18 -0600
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] tr-7 readout replacement
 
 On Wed, 06 Jan 2010 11:00:27 -0500, y...@aol.com wrote:
 
 I noticed the tool for pulling the board loose...good idea? should not be 
 hard to fabricate,or is there a better way.
 
 
 A classic metal PC slot cover works very well as a puller for the DR-7.
 
 73
 
 -Jim
 
 
 --
 Ham Radio NU0C
 Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
 TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
 HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
 
 Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
 will learn for a lifetime.
 
 HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
 http://radiojim(dot)exofire(dot)net
 http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
 http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 VFO Problem ?

2009-12-18 Thread Carel PA0CMU

Adrian,

 

Be aware of what is mentioned before by Garey - K4OAH. When changing the pots, 
the 10V-DC will not be the same voltage as before. Changing that voltage 
requires a full alignment of the TR7. So, before you start removings the pots, 
warm up the TR7 for a minute or 10. Than measure the 10V-DC with a digital 
voltmeter as accurate as possible and write down the value on a piece of paper. 
After that you can replace the pots and ,after warming up the TR7 again, adjust 
the 10V-DC voltage to exactly the same value as measured before. After that you 
can re-align the other pots as described in the manual.
This is not a guarantee that the TR7 needs a complete aligment yet, but I think 
it's the best way to replace the pots.

 

Good luck,

Carel - PA0CMU.

 
 From: ree...@btconnect.com
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:23:34 +
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR7 VFO Problem ?
 
 Hello all
 
 I have the Service Manual and have it printed out. 
 
 To confirm the symptoms, on 21 and 28MHz the counter settles around
 33.030MHz and 17.206MHz on all other bands. Connecting an antenna I can
 hear my signal generator on thes frequencies (sweeping the generator
 through the 33 and 17MHz frequencies). With an external source the counter
 works fine.
 
 So the synthesizer doesn't appear to be locking. I have cleaned the Molex
 connectors. My next course of action is to replace the pots on the voltage
 control board for multiturn ones, and re-align the voltages etc, and then
 re-check the synthesizer board again.
 
 Thanks all for the help, so far !
 
 Adrian MW1LCR
 
 
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RE: [drakelist] 2nd IF Audio Board in TR7

2008-04-26 Thread Carel PA0CMU

Carel PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Garey - K4OAH wrote:

 Your link below refers me to your Host's lost page. Perhaps it's
 referring to a TMP folder on your machine?

No Garey, I changed the first three characters to lower case in the link, but 
the real filename was in uppercase. It is corrected now. Please look again.

  http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/tmp/dsc02639a.jpg

Although the resistors R1187 and R1188 are drawn in my schematic (Service 
Manual 1978), they were NOT designed on the PC-board. I added them by lifting 
the diodes on one side.

  http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/tmp/R1187.jpg
  http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/tmp/R1188.jpg


Carel - PA0CMU.

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RE: [drakelist] 2nd IF Audio Board in TR7

2008-04-25 Thread Carel PA0CMU

Carel PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Garey,

Not only the demodulator circuit was changed.

1. Drake made some minor changes in the S-meter circuit. R1101 is replaced by 
two 1N4148 diodes in series and CR1101 is replaced by a 4700 Ohm resistor.

2. My first generation board was missing the current limiting resistors R1187 
and R1188 (feeding the audio preamps Q and Q1113) causing loud clicks in 
the speaker when switching to CW and AM mode.

3. R1112 was connected between base and collector of Q1103 in stead of biasing 
the base from the +10V-DC (pin11/13) line. The effect was a short pulse to the 
RTx relay when switching to CW mode.

All mentioned above is drawn correctly in the first generation schematic Fig. 
2-22 2nd IF/Audio Board on page 2-63 of the Service Manual. Unfortunately my 
board was not build like that. 

I cannot say the TR7 sounds or performs better after the upgrade to a second 
generation board. I just replaced the demodulator circuit by a MC1496.

Meanwhile I added a switched capacitor audio filter as described on my homepage 
and placed it on top of the piggy back mounted PC-board holding the MC1496 
circuit.
Here is a link to one of the pictures I still have to add to the Drake page 
of my website.

 http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/tmp/dsc02639a.jpg

The upper board is the audio filter with MAX7400. The lower one is the product 
detector. All build very compact to fit in the compartment just behind the fan 
connector (changed to a 12V-DC type).
That filter is doing a very great job, clearing the high hiss in my headphones 
when listening CW signals.

Carel - PA0CMU
http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder



 Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 18:58:35 -0400
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] 2nd IF Audio Board in TR7


 Garey Barrell  made an utterance to the drakelist gang
 --
 David -

 I just had this conversation the other day...! :-)

 I don't think anyone knows for sure, but I believe the AF board change
 was made around s/n 6000 or so. Early 1980. According to Bill Frost,
 the 1496 was originally designed into the R-7, and was then adopted as a
 cost saving measure in the second generation TR-7. The IC replaced a
 hand wound toroid and a couple of alignment problems. It's pretty easy
 to spot in a TR-7, as it's right at the top right corner of the 2nd
 IF/AF board at the rear of the card cage. Version 1 has the toroid up
 there and a little U-shaped shield (yet another costly item not needed
 with the IC) while the Version 2 board has the IC and a few resistors.
 Personally, I doubt if you would notice the difference by ear. I have a
 couple of each, and can't say that I can hear the difference. Yeah,
 the 1496 has a wider dynamic range than the two diode PD, but the AGC
 kinda eliminates the advantage of wide dynamic range! I think it was
 purely cost saving, and a fancier set of specs couldn't hurt! :-) A
 dutch ham did a conversion by removing all the parts associated with the
 Version 1 and putting the 1496 on a small piece of perfboard mounted
 just above the original board.

 

 I'm sure we'll hear other opinions!! :-)

 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA

 Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
 

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[drakelist] Audio filter for TR7

2007-06-25 Thread Carel PA0CMU
Hi all,To improve the audio response of the TR7, Rien PA0TRT designed a 
switched capacitor lowpass filter using Maxim's MAX7400.You can read all about 
it on the Drake page on my website.For a direct 
link:http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark7Some pictures of the 
filter will be added soon.73,Carel - PA0CMURien - PA0TRT
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RE: [drakelist] DF4NW preamp for TR7?

2006-07-19 Thread Carel, PA0CMU


Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Gerry and gang,

The URL in your email is not correct and causes a 404 error. The correct 
link is:


http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm

or just use http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/index.htm to enjoy the QRP 
related info of my website if you wish. Rien, PA0TRT does not have a 
personal website, so we used my webspace with a separated Drake page to put 
our info on the net.


Carel - PA0CMU.


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[drakelist] URL website (continuation)

2005-05-27 Thread Carel, PA0CMU


Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hi all,

I just saw that the access to my homepage is denied by the provider. An 
'Error 403 page' is shown in stead of my website. There has been to much 
data traffic and the limits are reached now. I don't know why this happened 
and will ask the service desk of my provider coming Monday. This is the 
first time it happens.


Please try it again after 02.00 UTC when the freezing will be removed (I 
hope).


Sorry for that.

Carel - PA0CMU
Send


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[drakelist] URL website (mirror site)

2005-05-27 Thread Carel, PA0CMU


Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hi all,

Due to limited ammount of traffic that is allowed for my website, I asked my 
son to set up a mirror of my main website (which is located at 
http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/).
If the main website mentioned above is not accessible, please visit the 
mirror at http://muldereric.mine.nu


73, Carel - PA0CMU


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[drakelist] URL website

2005-05-26 Thread Carel, PA0CMU


Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hi all,

If you have visited the Drake forum during the Hamvention in Dayton, you 
might not have a solid copy of the callsign pointing to my website where you 
can find our (PA0CMU and PA0TRT) mods for the Drake TR7. I had to repeat my 
callsign at least four times, so here it is again:


Using Google, type: PA0CMU (first hit)

or,

http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder

Please leave a message in the guestbook or via the Callsign box in the 
left frame on the mainpage, if the info was valuable for you.



Carel - PA0CMU.


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RE: [drakelist] R4C DC Power supply Board

2005-02-27 Thread Carel, PA0CMU
Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Kevin,
I should have one spare somewhere because I improved the power supply unit 
and the audio amplifier. Consider that improvement as developed by Howard 
Sartori, W5DA to reduce heat and better filtering. Read this info: 
http://www.mods.dk/view.php?ArticleId=2551

Carel - PA0CMU.
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Re: [drakelist] TR-7 Receiver Noise

2004-12-13 Thread Carel, PA0CMU
Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Hi Dieter and group,
Unfortunately, I don't remember which transistor it was. It most likely was 
located on
the 2nd IF / Audio board.
It is Q1113 a 2N3904 (the last stage before the audio IC) who caused a same 
kind of noise and rumble in the TR7A of PA3AJI. The replacement is a 
BC549, a low noise type transistor.

Carel - PA0CMU.
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RE: [drakelist] TR-7 Receiver Noise

2004-12-08 Thread Carel, PA0CMU
Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Hello Vic,
It might be the powerline wiring from the on/off switch on the front panel 
to the connector on the rear panel. The 60 Hz /110V signal introduces a hum 
in the audio circuits.
We modified the PS-7 by mounting a switch on the frontpanel and disabled the 
original on/off switching. Due to that, the PA fan must be replaced too. We 
used a cheap 12V computer fan. Now you can use your TR7 with forced cooling 
in the field too!

73, Carel - PA0CMU.
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] TR-7 Receiver Noise
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2004 16:04:27 +
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Greetings.
I recently put a TR-7 on the air that I purchased several months ago. All 
is fine except that there is what I can best describe as a low frequency 
rumble noise that is most noticable when using headphones. It is very 
audible even with the RF gain set to max and the audio gain set to min. I 
have listed with another receiver and do not hear this noise, so I don't 
think I have any interference in the shack.
When tuning in signals, there does not appear to be any distortion, but the 
background noise is very noticable.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Vic K5TAG
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RE: [drakelist] TR-7 Receiver Noise

2004-12-08 Thread Carel, PA0CMU
Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Vic,
Try this:
- disconnect the AC-line!
- remove the PS7 control cable on the rear panel of the TR7
- make a temporary connection with a piece of wire between pins 1 and 2 of 
the PS7 control cable connector. The PS7 is switched to ON mode now.
- carefully connect the AC power
- the TR7 is switched ON too, but without the AC current through the wires 
in the rig.
- don't use transmit mode because the fan doesn't work either!
- listen to the noise you heard before. If it's gone now, the AC wiring in 
the TR7 is the reason of your unwished signal.

Good luck, be carefull, AC power lines are dangerous. Here in the 
Netherlands we even have 230V.
Carel - PA0CMU.

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Re: [drakelist] TR7 mode switch thump. PROBLEM FOUND

2004-11-26 Thread Carel, PA0CMU
Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Hi all,
The problem of the mode switch thump has been found.
On the early version of the 2nd IF/Audio Board, R1187 doesn't exist. On the 
late version board Drake added R1187 (10K) in series with CR1119 but made a 
mistake in the copper trace design. In some (or most ?) cases, R1187 is 
short-circuited! Switching to CW mode still charges C1151 (22uF/16V) 
immediately through CR1119, thus giving a loud click in the audio circuit.

I added a 10k resistor to my early version board and Rien - PA0TRT, modified 
the copper trace of his late version board. Both TR7's (S/N 3157 and 9345) 
are switching without any click to CW mode now.

73, Carel - PA0CMU.
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[drakelist] Language correction (TR7 mode switch ...)

2004-11-21 Thread Carel, PA0CMU
Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Oep...
In my message about the TR7 mode switch problems, I used the word thumb 
instead of thump or click. Sorry for the mistake.

Carel - PA0CMU.
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[drakelist] TR7 mode switch thumb

2004-11-20 Thread Carel, PA0CMU
Carel, PA0CMU [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Hi all,
From the estate of a friend, PA3BBT, I got a TR7 (serial no. 3157) and PS7.
All his amateur equipment was kept in boxes for nearly seven years and
needed a serious cleaning. Two of my friends do have a TR7(serial no. 7???)
and TR7A (serial no. 11178) too, so we can compare differences between
the rigs.
Both TR7's produce a fairly loud thumb in the speaker when turning
the mode switch to CW, regardless one switches from RTTY to CW or
from LSB to CW mode. The same thumb appears when the AM mode is
selected. The TR7A on the other hand, produces a smooth, thumbless
switching between all modes. Despite all internet info we could not find
any modification for this fault. Does anyone have some info on that?
Is it a bug, or just normal for the TR7.
In my TR7 the first low pass filter (L1701 - L1702) is omitted, but in the
other TR7 and TR7A all components are mounted.
Does anyone know the values and toroid material of L1701 and L1702?
We also found out that there is missing a copper trace on the noise
blanker PCB. The connection between pin 1 of the MC1350 and L812
is omitted on both available NB boards! One of the noise blankers didn't
work (never did?) but was fine after placing about 5mm copper wire
between both pads.
73, Carel - PA0CMU.
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