Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts

[Jim Shorney]

Sweet! I notice that there are a variety of aftermarket "Fender" knobs
available on the interenet. I imagine one might want to avoid the metal ones as
a safety precaution

Nice work, Joe.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Fri, 05 Oct 2018 16:17:41 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote:

>I received the Fender knobs today and they fit the MN2700. They were 
>a little tight when I first pushed them on but they went on and look 
>fine. They don't look exactly like the originals but they're much 
>better than the bare switch. I have an early and a late MN2700 and 
>the knobs are different so I'm guessing Drake used what they could get.
>
>73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
>
>At 10:42 AM 10/1/2018, Joe Pyles wrote:
>>Fender Telecaster guitars have a similar switch to choose different 
>>pickups and the knob looks like it would fit the Drake tuners. The 
>>part number is 099-4936-000. I have ordered a few to see if they 
>>will fit. If you search the Fender part number several places sell 
>>the switch caps. I should get them any day from The Guitar Center 
>>and will let you know if they fit the tuner switches.
>>
>>73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
>>
>>
>>At 02:44 PM 9/30/2018, Evert Bakker wrote:
>>>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>> boundary="=_NextPart_000_0048_01D458FE.51AB5F30"
>>>Content-Language: nl
>>>
>>>Hello,
>>>
>>>I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
>>>But even time cracks quality.
>>>The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>>>Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>>>
>>>73's, Evert PA2KW
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>>
>>
>>---
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>
>
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"It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth!" - 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transceiver 2 Digit LED Display.

[Jim Shorney]

There is no known cross reference. DF4NW offers high quality complete display
replacements.

http://www.df4nw.de/

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Wed, 3 Oct 2018 22:20:04 -0500, Robert Sisco wrote:

>Does anyone know a cross reference Part Number for the Drake TR-7
>2 digit, MHz, LED display on the DR-7 board?
>
>The Drake Part Number is 3080021.
>These are the two red seven segment LED  numeric displays used to
>Display the MHz digits in the Frequency Counter.
>One digit has 2 segments, that don’t work.
>The other digit has a different 2 segments, that don’t work. 
>
>Regards, Robert Sisco K5LYT Wednesday

--

"It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth!" - 
G'Kar, Babylon 5



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Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 knobs

[Jim Shorney]

It may not be a coincidence if the Tele knobs will work. You got me thinking
about the switches. The switches Fender uses are called Oak Grigsby and they
look very much like the MN-2700 switches. 

http://www.electro-nc.com/rotaryus/supp11.pdf

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Tue, 02 Oct 2018 19:24:05 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote:

>The knobs that are needed are the ones on the reactive and resistive 
>levers under the large knobs on the MN2700. Those switches are rotary 
>switches that are mounted horizontally and have a flat lever that 
>goes through the front panel.
>
>73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
>
>At 04:24 PM 10/2/2018, Barnhart David wrote:
>>Are the MN2700 knobs the same as used on the MN-2000?  If so I have 
>>a donor MN-2000 with everything except the bandswitch knob.  Let me 
>>know if what I have will work for you.
>>
>>73
>>Dave Barnhart
>>K7RPM
>>
>>
>> > On Oct 1, 2018, at 9:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>> >   drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> >
>> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> >   http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> >   drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
>> >
>> > You can reach the person managing the list at
>> >   drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net
>> >
>> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> > than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
>> >
>> >
>> > Today's Topics:
>> >
>> >   1. Spare parts (Evert Bakker)
>> >   2. Drake 1A (Dale Parfitt)
>> >   3. Re: Spare parts (Jim Shorney)
>> >   4. Re: Spare parts (Joe Pyles)
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > Message: 1
>> > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200
>> > From: "Evert Bakker" 
>> > To: 
>> > Subject: [Drakelist] Spare parts
>> > Message-ID: <004701d458ed$8e185600$aa490200$@pa2kw.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Hello,
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
>> >
>> > But even time cracks quality.
>> >
>> > The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>> >
>> > Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > 73's, Evert PA2KW
>> >
>> > -- next part --
>> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > URL: 
>> <http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20180930/5c2107c8/attachment-0001.html>
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > Message: 2
>> > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 15:28:10 -0400
>> > From: "Dale Parfitt" 
>> > To: 
>> > Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 1A
>> > Message-ID: <039501d458f3$b9811a10$2c834e30$@frontier.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > I have a beautiful 1A that I am selling. After restoration,  one of the
>> > nicest I have seen. Powder coated  cabinet, polished aluminum front piece,
>> > modern  grounded power cord.  Has the calibrator, print of the manual. Any
>> > serious offers considered.
>> >
>> > http://www.parelectronics.com/vintage-drake-1a.php
>> >
>> > Dale W4OP
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -- next part --
>> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > URL: 
>> <http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20180930/ec9f452b/attachment-0001.html>
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > Message: 3
>> > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 18:34:21 -0500
>> > From: "Jim Shorney" 
>> > To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
>> > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts
>> > Message-ID: <20180930233424.8259840...@mail02.inebraska.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> >
>> >
>> > You probably won't find any unless someone has a parts donor unit. You will
>> > either have to fabricate your own, or pehaps an eBay searcy for 
>> "lever knob"
>> > under Consumer Electronics will tur

Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts

[Jim Shorney]

Absolutely brilliant! A good friend of mine has a Tele that he plays regularly
but I never made that connection. I bet it will work!

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 01 Oct 2018 10:42:15 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote:

>Fender Telecaster guitars have a similar switch to choose different 
>pickups and the knob looks like it would fit the Drake tuners. The 
>part number is 099-4936-000. I have ordered a few to see if they will 
>fit. If you search the Fender part number several places sell the 
>switch caps. I should get them any day from The Guitar Center and 
>will let you know if they fit the tuner switches.
>
>73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
>
>
>At 02:44 PM 9/30/2018, Evert Bakker wrote:
>>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>> boundary="=_NextPart_000_0048_01D458FE.51AB5F30"
>>Content-Language: nl
>>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
>>But even time cracks quality.
>>The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>>Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>>
>>73's, Evert PA2KW
>>___
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>>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>
>
>---
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"It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth!" - 
G'Kar, Babylon 5



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Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts

[Jim Shorney]

You probably won't find any unless someone has a parts donor unit. You will
either have to fabricate your own, or pehaps an eBay searcy for "lever knob"
under Consumer Electronics will turn up something from home audio units that
will work. I see several from Pioneer, Sony, Craig, etc., that look promising.
They won't be black though

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200, Evert Bakker wrote:

>Hello,
>
> 
>
>I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now. 
>
>But even time cracks quality.
>
>The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>
>Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>
> 
>
>73's, Evert PA2KW 
>
>

--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"



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[Drakelist] Garey Barrell K4OAH SK

[Jim Shorney]

From: Collins  on behalf of Tony
Vitolo via Collins 
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 2:18 PM
To: Collins Reflector
Subject: {Collins} K4OAH SK
 
It is with deep sadness to report that Garey Barrell K4OAH became a
silent key last night.

Tony Vitolo W4AV
Grayson GA.

P.S. Would somebody please post this on the Drake reflector



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL and he will learn for an hour. Teach him to Google and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR-7 Newby

[Jim Shorney]

Hi Bob,

On Wed, 7 Sep 2016 14:09:05 -0500, Bob Burkett wrote:

>I am engaged in repair of a Drake TR-7.  Would someone please tell me where
>I can buy some of the small intra-board coax cables?  If I have to make
>them, where do I get the connectors ... and by what name do I refer to them?

This was recently discussed in the Yahoo DrakeRadio group. The upshot is no one
really knows. A suitable cable type was possibly identified but the connectors
themselves remain something of a mystery. You may be able to retrofit with some
more modern connectors.

>Is there a list of reputable sources from which I could purchase
>transistors, capacitors, etc in the one or two quantity level for these
>older radios?


PA deck parts can be purchased from RFParts. Mouser is a good source for most
ofther stuff. There is a lot of info and resources listed at wb4hfn.com.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
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relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"



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Re: [Drakelist] New and R7 SMeter Query

[Jim Shorney]

The S-Meter circuits in the 7-line have undergone a number of revisions over
the years that the rigs were produced. You can drive yourself nuts trying to
chase them down. FWIW I pretty much just gave up trying to make sense of it and
just adjust them "by the book".

73

-Jim

NU0C

On Wed, 2 Mar 2016 16:50:59 -0600, jetercreek wrote:

>
>Thanks for all the input, gentlemen.  I have made some
>headway.  Especially after I discovered the meter face
>had a good static buildup!
>
>I got it as close as possible and adjusted the IF gain to
>match the modern rig.  It's all relative...
>
>But, if it reads anywhere close to what I consider normal
>in the region up to S9 +20, it is haywire above 20 DB and
>now CCW RF gain is only +40.
>
>I always considered (and found) Drake transceivers to have 5 DB
>between S units  and great accuracy above S9.  I there any
>chance the R7 was meant to reflect a different standard?
>
>Darrel, N0DBX
>
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Re: [Drakelist] New and R7 SMeter Query

[Jim Shorney]

On Tue, 1 Mar 2016 10:45:13 -0600, jetercreek wrote:

>At any rate, recently added an R7 to the collection
>and have it going rather well.  One thing has me
>stymied and it is the S Meter set up:  If it is aligned
>according to the manual, full counter clockwise on the
>RF gain only raises the meter to 60 DB and not full scale.
>
>Is that anything close to what anybody else sees?


Mine behaves as described.

73

-Jim
NU0C

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Re: [Drakelist] Tr7. Audio

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 11 Sep 2015 09:55:25 -0500, DW. Anderson wrote:

>Greetings to the group, thanks to you fixed last issue with the tr7, have new 
>issue , when I tune the radio in am, go to switch to CW, rtty, ssb lose audio 
>, meter is showing signals coming in and in transmit showing power out, but to 
>audio, any thoughts ?

Sounds like you are losing the BFO. Since it affects both CW and SSB I would
suspect the signal path between pin 40 of the PBT/Ref board and pin 40 of the
2nd IF/Audio board. Probably one of those pesky Molex connectors. Often just
pulling the board up and re-seating will clear problems like this, but a little
dab of DeOxit on all the pins wouldn't hurt. Don't spray, it will go everywhere
that you don't want it.

73

-Jim
NU0C

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Re: [Drakelist] Drake FA-7 (fan)

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 21 Jun 2015 18:45:17 -0700, Bill Watson wrote:

Hello, I am looking for the FA-7 for my TR-7. I plan on using it for the
PS-7. Help in finding one will be appreciated. Maybe you know a replacement
fan that would work? If you do, any part number or company name will help
in the search.  73, Bill, KC4WNI


The FA-7 is an off-the-shelf fan. Somewhere in the bowels of the internet you
should be able to find the OEM make and model. If not, I can look on one of
mine tomorrow. It's a 19 CFM fan, IIRC. I have a box full of the Papst 32 CFM
version, but those are way too noisy for the average ham shack (nice upgrade
for the DL-1000 though...).

73

-Jim
NU0C

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Re: [Drakelist] Drake FA-7 (fan)

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 21 Jun 2015 23:59:09 -0500, Jim Shorney wrote:


The FA-7 is an off-the-shelf fan. 

Ah, here we go: Comair/Roton Sprite model SU2C1, 1900rpm, 20cfm of airflow, 
noise output of only 26.2dba. 

http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/COMAIR_ROTRON/Comair-Rotron_Enclosure-and-Cooling_5990220.pdf


73

-Jim
NU0C


--

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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 AF/RF Gain control and T/R relay

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 22 May 2015 12:16:02 -0500, Tom Hendrix wrote:

I am looking for a AF/RF gain control, which includes the on/off switch
for my TR-7.

Unobtanium unless you want to pay eBay prices to the tin man radio strippers.
Otherwise you will need to rebuild it using parts from similar controls.
 

Also, the TR-7 is getting lazy about switching back to receive from transmit
on both CW and SSB.  I suspect the T/R relay because I can repeatedly
switch back and forth and it will eventually receive properly.  Is cleaning
and/or burnishing the contacts on these typically enough to solve this
problem, or does this usually require replacement?

You could certainly try to clean it, but replacements are readily available if
you would rather go that route. It could also be that you have a touchy Molex
connector on a PC board somewhere. Cleaning/DeOxit-ing the Molex connectors
often solves intermittent problems in 7-Line gear.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
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Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

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Re: [Drakelist] Source for Drake dial blue filter material

[Jim Shorney]

Conventional wisdom is that Lee #172 Lagoon Blue theatrical gel is a very
close match. A few bucks for a sheet at a theater supply house or on eBay will
net you a lifetime supply. Dave, KD2E, has provided information to the effect
that Roscolene #853 is the ORIGINAL Drake filter material. You can see both
colors together here:

http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/blue.html

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 09:56:26 -1000, Rob Hinz wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for the blue filter material for the Drake dials 
and meters? 

I see that Mike Sever, KG9BV, was supplying these at one time, but I have been 
unable to reach him by email or telephone after several attempts. I hope he is 
ok. 

Thanks!

Rob - KH6NX

--
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Re: [Drakelist] Virtual Drake

[Jim Shorney]

Sweet! Please do a TR-7 Meter!

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 17:56:46 -0700, Don Rasmussen wrote:

I have been coding some cool analog meters for SDRSharp, a SDR program.
The latest features my R4C, some on the list may have an interest.


http://tinyurl.com/la6na6a

http://tinyurl.com/la6na6a


de wb8yqj Don

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Re: [Drakelist] Help wirk Drake TR7 faults

[Jim Shorney]

Hi John,

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 12:12:22 +1100, John Bennett wrote:

Problem 1. Tuning: Each division movement of the main dial moves the digital 
display 1,8kHz up or down  and the same on TX /RX. The Digital Display counter 
has been checked against a laboratory standard and is perfectly accurate.
Why does this happen? This fault makes the rig useless.

That's a new one on me. I assume you mean the 1KHz markings on skirt of the
tuning knob are not tracking with the display. To be honest I rarely ever use
those. I know us old-timers like analog dials, but I've comp tp depend on that
nice digital display way too much. It is possible that your clutch bushing is
slipping. Remove the knob and skirt and you will see a likely hard and
deteriorated piece of rubber hose over the shaft. The job of the hose is to
allow the skirt to slip enough for you to manually calibrate it to the
fiducial but stay put when turning the knob. This can be replaced with a piece
of automotive hose cut to the same length. When you put the knob back on apply
slight inward (towards the radio) pressure as you tighten the set screw. If
that's not it then the PTO probably has an internal issue. There are PTO gurus
lurking here. 

Problem  2.  There is an instability problem in the bands above 14MHz.  The 
display goes crazy and does not lock. Higher bands useless. Why?

The high VCO is unlocking. Most likely either dirty/oxodised pins in the Molex
connectors for the plugin circuit boards or a fault on the DC-DC converter
power supply in the front right corner of the radio. Check to make sure the top
half of the transformer E-core has not fallen off. Replace the large
electrolytic capacitor on that board. Regardless, just do it. Use a decent
quality 105C part. Be prepared to check the +!0V and re-do the fixed passband
adjustments afrer you have handled the power supply board.

Problem  3. There is no or erratic keying on CW. Why?

Again, Molex connectors. Often just re-seating the plug-in circuit boards will
solve odd problems with 7-Line gear. If you have some DeOxit it wouldn't hurt
to treat them. DO NOT SPRAY. You just need a little bit on the pins.

This aged ham, licenced 1950,  needs a fellow Ham with comprehensive knowledge 
of the wonderful Drake TR7.
Clues, ideas, thoughts  or threads I can follow greatly appreciated.

There is a wealth of information online in the message archive of this group.
Let your fingers fly.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR-7 question

[Jim Shorney]

The center conductor needs to be in precise alignment with the small socket
hole that it fits into. Not that easy to do by feel, you really need to get a
light and eyes on it. Unless the socket has been clipped short by someone who
mistook it for an ordinary component leg or the open end is obstructed by
something the center conductor should slip in easily once aligned correctly.
The shield clamp can be re-tensioned somewhat, but it's not meant to grab very
hard in the first place. It's mainly an electrical connection rather than a
physical restraint.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Tue, 11 Nov 2014 21:53:10 -0500, Randall M. Payne wrote:

Trying again on this:  has anyone had a problem with the coax lead from 
the up converter to the high pass filter in the TR-7?  I cannot get the 
coax to stay plugged in.  Not sure if I'm just not doing it quite right 
or if there's a problem with the little fitting on the high pass filter 
switch where the coax plugs in.  It looks like the fitting may have 
opened up some where the coax shield should fit. The fitting does not 
appear to be getting a good grip on the shield of the coax.  Also, the 
center conductor of the coax, which should go into a socket on the 
board, just bends off to the side.  If anyone else has had a similar 
problem, I'd like to hear how you dealt with it.  I suppose you could 
just solder the coax into place, but I hate to be drastic about this if 
I can avoid that.

Thanks and 73,
Randy K4EZM


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake TC-2 Final Amp.

[Jim Shorney]

Is this it?

http://www.tubezone.net/pdf/8643.pdf



On Thu, 23 Oct 2014 16:41:17 -0400, Ted Schurter wrote:

Dear fellow Drake enthusiasts,

I know this may be a long shot, but I am attempting to get a TC-2, two meter 
transmitting converter on the air. It basically works, but has low output 
power. I suspect the final amp tube is weak.

The final output tube is a 8643 and I would like to find a data sheet on this 
device. I am told that the 8643 is a souped up version of a 5894, but I'm 
not sure how close the two devices are in actual operation.

So, does anyone out there have access to an 8643 data sheet. I have searched 
the internet without success.

73s,

Ted Schurter
WB2NVK

tedschur...@verizon.net

 



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Re: [Drakelist] Web SIte Updated

[Jim Shorney]

Thanks, Thom!

73
-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 25 May 2014 08:06:48 -0400, Thom LaCosta wrote:

Thanks to Mark Gilger, information on The Drake Net is updated at 
http://zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakenet.html

Please drop an email if you have any additions. corrections or 
suggestions for the web site.

thanks,,
73
thom k3hrn

--

It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - 
G'Kar, Babylon 5



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Driver Stage on PA Board Questions

[Jim Shorney]

I assume you are referring to T2302, there are no 28xx parts on the PA deck. I
suspect what you are seeing is one of the lead wires from T2302, which is part
of the RF filtering system for the collector voltage to the drivers. It looks
to be bifilar wound, so yes, a break in the common lead would kill 13.6 to both
of the drivers. It looks like to get to it you would need to remove T2303. Not
an easy task, but do-able. I don't have one in front of me, just looking at SM
pictures right now. Once you can get to it, it shouldn't be a big deal to
either patch the broken lead or re-wind it.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 16:21:32 -0600, J. Steven Cochrane wrote:

I have two TR7 questions:

1. There is a VERY fine wire, like fuse wire, that runs next to T2802 toroid 
(side closest to the final amp stage), it is broken. Could that be why I don't 
have 13.6 volts going to the Driver Transistors (there is 13.6 volts at the 
Test Jumper for the Bias Measurement)? The toroid doesn't look all that good 
either, but neither does the one in my good TR7.

2. Does anyone know of an easy way to replace that wire and T2802 if necessary?

If anyone has a working PA board they would like to sell I'm interested.

Steve
J. Steven Cochrane W7JSC




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Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A,
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he
will learn for a lifetime.

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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 - CW and ALC level

[Jim Shorney]

I did not replace any of the other caps at that time, although with the age of
these radios it probably would not be a bad idea. The thing with the cap on the
PS board is that it can cause some strange things to happen when it starts to
fail, which can include unintentional out-of-band emissions.

I recommend that you use caps rated for 105C temperature. Not because it gets
that hot in there, but rather that they are more robust devices and should in
theory last longer.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Wed, 5 Mar 2014 22:25:03 +, Lehman, Rex wrote:

Hi Jim
Seen this post on replacing the 220 UF cap on PS bd for the DC to DC converter 
and seen your older messages where you said you recap your TR-7.
Did you just recap the PS board or did you replace every electrolytic cap in 
the TR-7. 
Just curious as I have one of mine apart and did the PS bd thinking maybe its 
worth it to do all of them.
Thanks
WB8TDG
Rex Lehman
Office +1.937.490.4474
rex.leh...@meas-spec.com


-Original Message-
From: Drakelist [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Jim 
Shorney
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2014 11:34 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net; Mark Nace
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR7 - CW and ALC level


ALL of the screws for the card cage cover need to be there, and snug. Don't 
overtighten, they will strip the chassis.

The +10V and the frequency alignments are the most critical. You probably 
won't need to touch the RF/IF cans or anything underneath the DR-7 except 
maybe the carrier balance. The RIT center pot should be accessible from the 
bottom through a hole in the parent board.

Replace the filter capacitor on the DC-DC converter (power supply) board.
Don't ask why, just do it. It is worthwhile to replace the fixed passband pots 
and the +10 pot with 10-turn trimpots as long as you are at it. Unless you 
have doubts about the calibration, I wouldn't touch the wattmeter and SWR 
balance adjustments. Judgement call...

AGC alignment should go by the book. If you will be doing CW, give Floyd's 
article a read. It's spot on:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Key_Clicks.pdf

There are some quick and dirty tech notes from Drake's service department here:

http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/tr7bookalign.html

If you have any questions, ask.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 3 Mar 2014 19:36:27 -0800 (PST), Mark Nace wrote:

I bought my new TR7 28 years ago (as my first rig ever) and am about to do 
do my first alignment check. I have re-seated the boards once, and that cured 
most of the ills. I have a late-model TR7, along with the maint manual.  If I 
do it by the book, is there anything I should watch out for ??

Mark
N5KAE


--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Transmit Intermittent Power Problem

[Jim Shorney]

I was getting strange output variations when I had leaky driver transistors on
the PA deck. Easy to check, the base voltage on the drivers should be zero in
RX. If it's anywhere near 0.6V, there's a problem. When I lifted the base
leads, one of them floated right up to 13.8V. Be careful not to short the base
to the collector when you measure, you will destroy the device instantly.

A similar problem that I have now is a dirty bandswitch. Depending on the band,
I often have to wiggle and jiggle it to get proper output. It's due to hit the
bench soon for another project, so I'm going to DeOxit the band switch at that
time.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Tue, 4 Mar 2014 07:35:19 -0700, J. Steven Cochrane wrote:

I have run out of ideas. One of my TR7s has intermittent output power 
problems. Sometimes there is no output, sometimes there is 40 to 10 watts 
output depending on band and sometimes there is full output.
When I change bands there usually is no output as well as low receive 
sensitivity. When I tap the PTT button on the mic the receive comes up to 
normal and I usually get 40 to 20 watts (CW) out on transmit. Sometimes when 
I push on the High Pass Filter section boards I get full output, sometimes I 
don't. Sometimes I get full output when talking into the mic (with the PTT 
button depressed of course) and not doing anything else. I searched the 
archives with little luck.

What I have done so far:
1. Pulled all the boards and reseated them (some numerous times).
2. Loosened and tightened all screws I could get to, externally and 
internally.
3. Cleaned all switches at least twice.
4. Pulled the power supply board and replaced C2108.
5. Readjusted 10 volt supply and checked Fixed pass band adjustment (all 
good).
6. Checked 40, 13.695, and 8.05 Oscillators (all Good)
7. Attempted to do Transmitter Alignment and ALC Adjustment but with only 
intermittent power output it was hit-and-miss at best.
8. Disconnected Diode CR1402 on the High Pass Filter Board (no change).
9. Checked 10 Volt transmit voltage on Parent Board when in transmit (right 
on 10 Volts).
10. Changed out the T/R relay twice ( no change).
11. Changed cables and dummy load (no change).
12. Cussed a lot (didn't help).

Any ideas where to go next other than crazy?

Steve W7JSC 


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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 - CW and ALC level

[Jim Shorney]

Thanks for the comments, Floyd. I have noted with my TR-7 that if I get into
ALC on CW the sidetone starts to sound rough and a scope on the carrier shows
what looks like some AM fuzz starting to show up on the signal. I was never
sure if this was a problem or not as the owner's manual does state that
advancing the carrier control past the point where the light comes on may
result in undesirable keying characteristics. I've seen a couple of other
TR-7s do something similar. I may look into it at some point, but as long as I
stay below ALC illumination everything looks fine. Using even a little ALC to
level the carrier on transmit doesn't sound like a good idea anyay.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Mon, 03 Mar 2014 16:11:24 -0500, Floyd Sense wrote:

In the Tweak my peak thread, NU0C said this:

/On CW, definitely operate below the ALC level. The quality of the transmit
signal starts to degrade when you go into ALC.//
/

I decided to take a look at that today, using my Orion II and NaP3 panadapter 
to examine the TR7 output spectrum as the ALC was varied.  My TR7 is setup to 
put out 100W at the point on the carrier level control just before where the 
the LED comes on (on 20M).  The TR7 was operated into a dummy load and the 
Orion had no antenna connected and 18 dB of attenuation dialed in so the TR7 
signal didn't overdrive the panadapter range.

I watched the panadapter display as I rotated the carrier level control from 
that point to full clockwise. The ALC LED came on at about the 1 o'clock 
position.  The power maxed out at 115 watts.  I saw no change in the spurs I 
saw at all over that range.  The strongest spurs were 60 dB down from the 
carrier.

So, it appears, at least on my TR7, that there is no degradation in the CW 
signal (looking 40 KHz in each direction from the carrier) that is related to 
ALC action.  Maybe if my TR7 were adjusted for maximum output, other factors 
might cause increased distortion that would appear to be related to the ALC 
level (but might not be).

I checked again on 10M CW (where my max output is set to 80W) and found the 
same thing to be true (but spurs were 67 dB down).


73, Floyd - K8AC



  



--
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 - CW and ALC level

[Jim Shorney]

I'm not convinced that it's related to the output level. The rough sidetone
suggests to me that the problem is somewhere in the 2nd IF/Audio board. The
sidetone is generated there by feeding the CW oscillator into the RX IF and
letting the product detector do the work. Coincidentally, the ALC control also
takes place on this board. It may be a decoupling issue. A good starting point
might be to re-cap all of the electrolytic decoupling caps on the board. They
are all positively ancient in dog years. Just speculation at this point...

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 03 Mar 2014 22:20:36 -0500, Floyd Sense wrote:

Interesting. I'll bet that no two TR7s will behave exactly the same in 
this respect since there are several adjustments involved, and they've 
probably all been adjusted differently after all these years. I haven't 
seen that fuzzy signal problem, but as I said I have my output cranked 
back a ways.

73, Floyd

On 3/3/2014 9:57 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:
 Thanks for the comments, Floyd. I have noted with my TR-7 that if I get into
 ALC on CW the sidetone starts to sound rough and a scope on the carrier 
 shows
 what looks like some AM fuzz starting to show up on the signal. I was never
 sure if this was a problem or not as the owner's manual does state that
 advancing the carrier control past the point where the light comes on may
 result in undesirable keying characteristics. I've seen a couple of other
 TR-7s do something similar. I may look into it at some point, but as long as 
 I
 stay below ALC illumination everything looks fine. Using even a little ALC to
 level the carrier on transmit doesn't sound like a good idea anyay.

 73

 -Jim
 NU0C


 On Mon, 03 Mar 2014 16:11:24 -0500, Floyd Sense wrote:

 In the Tweak my peak thread, NU0C said this:

 /On CW, definitely operate below the ALC level. The quality of the transmit
 signal starts to degrade when you go into ALC.//
 /

 I decided to take a look at that today, using my Orion II and NaP3 
 panadapter to examine the TR7 output spectrum as the ALC was varied.  My 
 TR7 is setup to put out 100W at the point on the carrier level control just 
 before where the the LED comes on (on 20M).  The TR7 was operated into a 
 dummy load and the Orion had no antenna connected and 18 dB of attenuation 
 dialed in so the TR7 signal didn't overdrive the panadapter range.

 I watched the panadapter display as I rotated the carrier level control 
 from that point to full clockwise. The ALC LED came on at about the 1 
 o'clock position.  The power maxed out at 115 watts.  I saw no change in 
 the spurs I saw at all over that range.  The strongest spurs were 60 dB 
 down from the carrier.

 So, it appears, at least on my TR7, that there is no degradation in the CW 
 signal (looking 40 KHz in each direction from the carrier) that is related 
 to ALC action.  Maybe if my TR7 were adjusted for maximum output, other 
 factors might cause increased distortion that would appear to be related to 
 the ALC level (but might not be).

 I checked again on 10M CW (where my max output is set to 80W) and found the 
 same thing to be true (but spurs were 67 dB down).


 73, Floyd - K8AC



   


 --
 “There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
 Doctor, Amy’s Choice





--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 - CW and ALC level

[Jim Shorney]

ALL of the screws for the card cage cover need to be there, and snug. Don't
overtighten, they will strip the chassis.

The +10V and the frequency alignments are the most critical. You probably won't
need to touch the RF/IF cans or anything underneath the DR-7 except maybe the
carrier balance. The RIT center pot should be accessible from the bottom
through a hole in the parent board.

Replace the filter capacitor on the DC-DC converter (power supply) board.
Don't ask why, just do it. It is worthwhile to replace the fixed passband pots
and the +10 pot with 10-turn trimpots as long as you are at it. Unless you have
doubts about the calibration, I wouldn't touch the wattmeter and SWR balance
adjustments. Judgement call...

AGC alignment should go by the book. If you will be doing CW, give Floyd's
article a read. It's spot on:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Key_Clicks.pdf

There are some quick and dirty tech notes from Drake's service department here:

http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/tr7bookalign.html

If you have any questions, ask.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 3 Mar 2014 19:36:27 -0800 (PST), Mark Nace wrote:

I bought my new TR7 28 years ago (as my first rig ever) and am about to do 
do my first alignment check. I have re-seated the boards once, and that cured 
most of the ills. I have a late-model TR7, along with the maint manual.  If I 
do it by the book, is there anything I should watch out for ??

Mark
N5KAE


--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] Tweak my Peak....

[Jim Shorney]

OK, My opinion:

Best practice is to operate at a lever *just below* where the ALC light starts
to flicker. This gives you the cleanest signal. It's easier to do if you can
use the clipping action of a good RF speech processor, such as the SP-7 or
equivalent, to limit your peaks.

Otherwise it's probably OK to adjust so the ALC just flickers occasionally. Too
much ALC will increase the IMD of your signal. See:

http://www.sm5bsz.com/dynrange/alc.htm

On CW, definitely operate below the ALC level. The quality of the tranmsit
signal starts to degrade when you go into ALC.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 2 Mar 2014 09:34:20 -0800 (PST), lane denune wrote:



   OK ; Here's a loaded question for the TR7 Pros out there... Adjust Mic 
 Gain to make the ALC Green light come on ...
Leaves something to be interpreted..Is it to flicker slightly on voice peaks 
or come on full and fade away when finished speaking?? .

I have had success with the rig on SSB as well as AM ( have the fan installed 
) 'feeling around' for a setting minus a peak RF meter.
Using a Bird 43 wattmeter and am adjusting mic gain for minimal downward 
needle movement on AM...SSB takes more gain seemingly..
All advice welcome and helpful...Thanks, lane de n8aft.


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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 on CW.

[Jim Shorney]

And as long as we are on the subject, there is an excellent article on key
clicks int he TR-7 by Floyd, K8AC, at:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Key_Clicks.pdf

Lane, I highly recommend that you get a copy of the excellent TR-7 service
manual. There are usable free PDF copise floating around the internet, and high
quality repros can be purchased of eBay or direct from various sellers. It is
indispensable.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:46:56 -0500 (EST), Nigel A. Gunn  G8IFF/W8IFF wrote:

Sidetone volume is the main front panel volume control. Frequency is C1136 on 
the 2nd IF board, accessable through the
rear panel key jack. Note that it affects your transmit offset frequency and 
should be set to 800Hz.

 On February 17, 2014 at 4:34 PM lane denune lanerda...@yahoo.com wrote:


 Â The XYL gave me a TR7 for a Valentine's Day gift the other day.I have been 
 getting used to it and have been making CW
 contacts on 40m with it. Questions that I have are: Where is there an 
 adjustment for Side Tone Volume and Side Tone
 Pitch? I figured if there are such adjustments they may well be on a PC 
 module as I cannot find any reference to them
 in my manual.
 Â Many more questions will arise I am certain but the rig works well 
 considering its' age.  73 from Lane de
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Warble in received (and transmit) signal

[Jim Shorney]

The analog switch is a CMOS 4016 on the parent board. It's the only IC there,
hard to miss. They have been known to cause similar issues.

Replace C2108 on the Power Supply board. Even if it's not the problem. Just do
it. Don't forget to check your Fixed Passband alignment when you are done. 

If you haven't already, you may need to re-seat one or more of the daughter
boards. Oxidation in the Molex connectors can cause strange problems.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:59:16 -0800 (PST), Leon Zebrick wrote:

Tuning the cal. signal and monitoring a transmitted carrier reveals a slight 
frequency warble of sorts.  PTO is clean and has the ground strap 
modification, and this issue seems unrelated to the PTO, in that physical 
movement or position of the PTO has no effect.  This is some type of minor 
instability seemingly not related to anything mechanical.  Improves as rig 
warms, but takes about an hour to clear.   Any suggestions on how to narrow 
this to the (presumably) offending oscillator?  Seems like it would not show 
up on a counter, but perhaps as jiggle on a scope?  I believe I read 
somewhere about an analog switch IC that can cause frequency jumping.  The 
frequency deviation is minor, but enough to roughen up received and 
transmitted signals.  Rig is very early SR#.  General VFO stability is 
acceptable.  Could this be normal for the old rig?  Thanks!
Leon (N5LAZ).


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 high pitched wine in audio

[Jim Shorney]

Leon,

A properly working TR-7 is a joy to operate. Replace the cap Gary Poland
recommended as well; although I haven't had a bad one, it can't hurt either.
You may indeed have an alignment problem with the RIT. A touch-up of the
frequency alignments should be done regardless. If that doesn't fix it, look at
the analog switch IC on the parent board.

There should be a hole in the parent board to access the RIT adjustment pot
from the bottom. The very oldest may not have had it. Plan on doing a fixed
passband alignment any time you remove the DR-7 or do anything else around that
front right corner. Those pots are easy to bump without even realising it.

There's lots of info on the internet. Google can be your friend. Get the
Drakemod document, it's a good read. Ignore all advice to reverse the direction
of the fan from what Drake intended, it really does work best that way.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Tue, 21 Jan 2014 06:47:53 -0800 (PST), Leon Zebrick wrote:

Jim, 
Great leads.  Thank you.  It sounds to the ear like the problem may be exactly 
what you are suggesting.  I’ve been sorting out a few issues with the rig 
and only two remain – the whine, and my RIT is way off.  I pulled DR7 last 
night for access to the RIT alignment pot, and while I don’t yet have an 
extender set, I took a few blind shots at getting the RIT at least into a 
useable range.  No luck.  Seems to be out of range of the pot, suggesting a 
broader alignment issue.   I rarely use RIT, so this problem can be addressed 
later.  The whine is more of an issue.  I really like the radio and have been 
enjoying  60 mtr. QSO’s with my brother, Guy,  in Memphis, WD5ACP;  I’m 
near New Orleans.   My brother and I have been hamming since the late 70’s 
and my recent Drake adventures have motivated him.  He’s  now awaiting 
receipt of a TR-7.  Once these minor issues are dealt with my rig will be 
100%.  The only real problem I had with the rig was transmitter instability, 
which cleared with a cleaning of the ALC pot and a pot on the pre-driver 
board.  I’ve been comparing the receive performance to a Ten Tec Pegasus, 
known to have a great receiver.  The TR7 holds its own.   After this I’m 
moving on to get my TR4CW into top shape.   Thanks again. 


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R4B calibrator

[Jim Shorney]

Thanks, Mike. I'll have to give them a look. Purple is the color of royalty,
you know.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Tue, 21 Jan 2014 00:04:46 -0500, Mike Bryce wrote:

Gang

The purple pcbs are made by a company called osh park. 

He ( they) have a thing for purple. Even the mailing envelopes are purple. 

All the prototypes are purple. Go figure. 

I use circad for the pcb layout software. I am currently teaching myself 
eagle. That's been slow. 


Mike wb8vge

Sent from my iPad

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit 
salad.
 

 On Jan 20, 2014, at 11:52 PM, Doug Smith d...@w7kf.com wrote:
 
 Found myself wondering the same thing.  Where do you get your boards made?  
 And, what software do you use to lay them out?  I ask because I have two of 
 the AC-4r kits and greatly admired the boards.
 
 73,
 Doug, W7KF
 http://www.w7kf.com
 
 
 On Jan 20, 2014, at 9:36 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote:
 
 
 It's PURPLE! Now I want to go find an R4B just so I can buy one.
 
 Where do you get purple boards made, Mike?
 
 73
 
 -Jim
 NU0C
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 high pitched wine in audio

[Jim Shorney]

The first thing I would look at is the filter cap on the DC-DC converter
(Power Supply) board in the front right corner of the radio. This capacitor
is IMO an always replace for any TR-7. Strange things can happen when it
starts to fail, and on a rig that old it most likely is. Replace with a part
specified for 105C temperature if possible.

There was also an engineering change to add a 470uF axial cap to the +10v rail.
This was added by Drake service to any radio that did not have it. Look for it
on the bottom side of the chassis, between pins 10 (+10V) and pin 3 (ground) of
the DC-DC coverter board connector.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 20:04:55 -0800 (PST), Leon Zebrick wrote:


Picked up an early Sr# TR7.  It's fine except for a high pitched noise in the 
audio.  It's continuous and not affected by volume control.  Not on transmit 
signal.  It's not loud, but noticeable and annoying in headphones.  Sounds 
like one of the oscillators is getting into the audio circuit.  Any decoupling 
mods or improvements related to this?  Sr no. Is in the 600 range.  Wonder if 
this is something Drake eventually improved on.  Or do I have a problem?  
Thanks.


--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor, Amy’s Choice



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R4B calibrator

[Jim Shorney]

It's PURPLE! Now I want to go find an R4B just so I can buy one.

Where do you get purple boards made, Mike?

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 14:16:28 -0500, Mike Bryce wrote:

Boys and girls…

I’ve been working on a replacement calibrator for the drake R4b. This 
calibrator will output 100, 50, and 25 kHz signals. You select the output with 
a dip jumper. The output also pulses on and off, and again, you can turn that 
off if you don’t want it.

it has the same footprint as the original, and all wiring plugs into it with a 
MTA.100 header and plug.

This project is about done. I’m in the process of having a small run of pcbs 
made.

here is a link to some photos and ‘scope traces of its output


http://theheathkitshop.com/downloads/Drake%20R4b%20calibrator/

Mike, wb8vge



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
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Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply

[Jim Shorney]

This may be the droid you are looking for:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/ElectrolyticRelacements.htm

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 18:06:14 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:

I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of 
the eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears 
open. I plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in 
changing layout of supply or redesigning it physically.

Is there a replacement board other than the one from Heath shop? I have eight 
new 470 MFD @ 450 VDC caps with both terminals + and - on the same end. New 
caps 105 degree rated about 1/2 the height of the original caps.

Anyone have suggestions for a rebuild? Please reply directly. Thank and 73, 
John, K5PGW


--
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relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply

[Jim Shorney]

I've never done it. But I may need to in the near future, My L-7PS is still
running on original caps. Clean brass with 63/37 Kester solder and maybe a
little extra liquid rosin flux should work fine. The only thing that may be of
concern with this method is the length of brass rod running along the side of
the can. As some of us have found out, the isolated can on those capacitors
can develop a voltage potential. Not necessarily a problem, as it would be
through a high impedance leakage path, but I think I would prefer a little more
insulation between that rod and the can. OTOH, Evan and Ron are both pretty
sharp techies, and I'm sure they would have revised the article if there was a
problem.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 20:23:40 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:

Thanks Jim. That is a wonderful technical article. I will certainly follow it. 
I have never soldered brass rod. Is it difficult? Any special solder required? 
I really appreciate your assistance. 73, John, K5PGW





On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:50 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com 
wrote:
 

This may be the droid you are looking for:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/ElectrolyticRelacements.htm

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 18:06:14 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:

I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of 
the eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears 
open. I plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in 
changing layout of supply or redesigning it physically.

Is there a replacement board other than the one from Heath shop? I have eight 
new 470 MFD @ 450 VDC caps with both terminals + and - on the same end. New 
caps 105 degree rated about 1/2 the height of the original caps.

Anyone have suggestions for a rebuild? Please reply directly. Thank and 73, 
John, K5PGW


--

I aim to misbehave. - Captain Malcolm Reynolds, Serenity



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Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply

[Jim Shorney]

Thanks for the input, Evan. I'll keep this in mind.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 00:07:41 -0500 (EST), Evan Rolek wrote:

Jim and fellow Drake enthusiasts,


That is an interesting point Jim brought up.  This is the reason why I used 
Teflon tubing on the brass rods, sometimes with heatshrink as well, and used 
RTV or hot glue to hold the caps in place so there is air spacing between 
adjacent caps.  The originals were of slightly larger diameter than the 
computer caps so the air gap works to advantage.  However, there is only about 
325 vdc across any two terminals/points on the capacitor so the insulation on 
the can itself might even be adequate.  But extra doesn't hurt either.



73,



Evan, K9SQG






-Original Message-
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net; John King k5...@yahoo.com
Sent: Fri, Jan 17, 2014 11:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply



I've never done it. But I may need to in the near future, My L-7PS is still
running on original caps. Clean brass with 63/37 Kester solder and maybe a
little extra liquid rosin flux should work fine. The only thing that may be of
concern with this method is the length of brass rod running along the side of
the can. As some of us have found out, the isolated can on those capacitors
can develop a voltage potential. Not necessarily a problem, as it would be
through a high impedance leakage path, but I think I would prefer a little more
insulation between that rod and the can. OTOH, Evan and Ron are both pretty
sharp techies, and I'm sure they would have revised the article if there was a
problem.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 20:23:40 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:

Thanks Jim. That is a wonderful technical article. I will certainly follow 
it. 
I have never soldered brass rod. Is it difficult? Any special solder required? 
I 
really appreciate your assistance. 73, John, K5PGW





On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:50 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com 
wrote:
 

This may be the droid you are looking for:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/ElectrolyticRelacements.htm

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 18:06:14 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:

I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of 
the eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears 
open. 
I plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in changing 
layout of supply or redesigning it physically.

Is there a replacement board other than the one from Heath shop? I have 
eight 
new 470 MFD @ 450 VDC caps with both terminals + and - on the same end. New 
caps 
105 degree rated about 1/2 the height of the original caps.

Anyone have suggestions for a rebuild? Please reply directly. Thank and 73, 
John, K5PGW

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor, Amy’s Choice



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Re: [Drakelist] Checking the List or Boy are the bands dead

[Jim Shorney]

I did work the contest. 10 Meters was in great shape, SFI was 164 for most of
the weekend. 503 contacts, 44 DXCC countries. I gave the 7-Line a workout. What
fun to run a frequency while tuning the band with the other receiver at the
same time! Most of the DX was fairly easy to work, especially above 28.5. I did
pretty good for a Butternut vertical, some of the hard-core DX was handing out
serial numbers in the 2K - 3K range. 

The mornings were wall-to-wall Europe; later in the day I was working both
coasts, EU, and SA randomly one-after-another. VK/ZL late afternoon, Alaska/JA
at greyline. Nothing much in close, but that's OK. Wow!

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 16 Dec 2013 18:32:10 -0800, Richard Knoppow wrote:

Speaking of which, there was a contest on 10 meters on 
the weekend. Amazing!

--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] Maybe this works?

[Jim Shorney]

5-9 Nebraska.

73
-Jim
NU0C

On Wed, 04 Dec 2013 20:26:03 -0500, Thom LaCosta wrote:

Perhaps the lists is back up again?

73
thom k3hrn

--

It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - 
G'Kar, Babylon 5



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Re: [Drakelist] mic for tr7

[Jim Shorney]

A 7077 should sound good on the TR-7. You may want to check the adjustment of
the fixed passband pots in the front of the radio. What you describe is one
symptom of misadjustment. Also worth looking at is the blast foam behind the
grill of the 7077. By this point, it has probably decayed to something not
consistent with it's original role. It's easy enough to replace; once you
remove the element from the head the bezel screws off to allow access to the
foam.

Pretty much any decent mic will sound good on a TR-7. I have used the 7077,
Shure 444 variants, Astatic D-104 (non-amplified), E-V 729SR, and Turner 254HC,
454C, and +3, all with good reports. The non-amplifed D-104 with an additional
470K in series and the Turner +3 were favored by friends who know my voice.
Disclaimer: I generally abhor preamped mics where they are not needed, but the
Turner +3 is essentially a Drake 7075 with a compression amp built in. It works
well if the gain is kept down.

Generally speaking, ceramic mics will have more punch for
DXing/contesting/weak signal work, while dynamics such as the 444 and 7077 will
have a more mellow, natural sound suitable for casual QSOs. High impedance mics
should be connected to the high level input pin of the mic connector.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sat, 21 Sep 2013 10:43:05 -0700, joe dimatteo wrote:

what mic will work good with a tr7? i have 7077 mic and the reports
i get say i sound tinny and no lows
joe
kf7hpt


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relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] R7 AGC issues

[Jim Shorney]

Wow, nice detective work Paul! I've had correspondence with John too, but it
was mostly about the AGC alignment and the subject of the fast AGC never came
up. I would agree with the assessment that it is useless, the poppy-ness on
noise alone is just to annoying to put up with, and manual intervention with
the RFG control shouldn't be needed. I have another R7 I am working on for
someone that exhibits the same behavior, and I have heard similar tales from
other users. I just figured that it was the nature of the beast, and haven't
taken the time to look deeply at the circuit.

I agree with doing the alignment by the book at this point. I tied various
alignment methods, and after discussing the how and why of the book method with
John, that seems to be the best way to do it.

I'll file your notes and try it out the next time I have one or the other of
the radios on the bench - a couple of other projects have temporarily sidelined
Drake tech-ing for me.

Many thanks to John also, for sharing his wisdom!

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sat, 11 May 2013 11:39:52 -0500, Paul wrote:

Have had issues with the R7 AGC in fast mode in that the AGC would go 
into a low frequency oscillation excited by noise.  Looking at the AGC 
line showed a triangular waveform.  This caused distortion on AM and SSB 
signals.  This problem went away when the RF gain control was turned 
counterclockwise (reduced IF gain).  Medium AGC also had this problem 
but to a lesser degree.  Slow AGC worked fine.

  Contacted John Kriner and he was kind enough to share his thoughts and 
suggestions on fixing the R7 AGC problem.  I made the modifications to 
the IF/AGC/Audio board per John's suggestions and they did help.  There 
was no more issues with medium AGC and much less problem with fast AGC.  
On no noise the fast AGC did not oscillator anymore, but when high noise 
or signals present AGC did go into the low frequency triangular wave 
oscillation.  By turning the RF gain control down (less IF gain) the 
problem went away and the fast AGC was usable.  Since I don't really use 
fast AGC for anything, I'm quitting while ahead.  Proper alignment of 
the R7 IF/AGC/Audio board is important.

Has anyone had a similar problem with the R7 AGC in fast and/or medium 
modes?  Anyone come up with a better solution then John's below?  I 
think that the R7 AGC circuit has too much gain and becomes unstable 
when excited by noise or signals.  My TR7 doesn't suffer from the 
aforementioned problems.

Excepts of the emails:

To: John,
I have a Drake R-7A that works very well except when using fast AGC 
and/or the audio distorts when the RF gain is all the way up (in all 
speeds of AGC).  I have aligned the IF/AGC/audio board per the manual 
and your instructions below:

(John's alignment instructions -  AGC pedestal is left all the way CW.  
I have argued with some folks who claim it must be re-adjusted.  But 
this is the way I have always left it.  And the S-meter calibration 
turns out to be perfect, and S+N/N far exceeds the specifications.  10dB 
drop in generator level equals an exact 10dB drop on the 'S' meter. )

My S-meter calibration is perfect for microvolt inputs, but audio 
distortion at high RF control (IF) gain is horrible.  When I turn down 
the RF (IF) gain control the receiver works well with no distortion or 
AGC pumping in fast AGC.  I tried adjusting the AGC pedestal, R1127, 
just to see if it made any difference, it didn't.

I could not find any obvious circuit or component failures.  Scoping the 
AGC circuit in Fast AGC shows a triangular waveform oscillation excited 
by noise.  When the RF (IF) gain knob is turned down this triangular 
waveform oscillation goes away and the receiver works fine.  I think the 
audio distortion is being caused by the AGC circuit modulating the IF 
signal.  The distortion is mainly on AM detection but I can tell that 
the SSB demodulated signal also doesn't sound quite right.  There also 
is popping of the SSB signal at the beginning of voice peaks even with 
slow AGC.  All of this goes away when I reduce the RF gain control.

Is this a circuit component(s) malfunction or a design problem?  My TR-7 
doesn't act like this.

 From John:
Fast AGC on the R7/A is useless.

It always has been.  No tweaking can correct it.

I had a customer with a RR3 complain about this as well.  He sent me the 
radio (basically a ship R7) and I worked with a designer at Drake.  This 
is the fellow who designed the SW8, Eton E1, and R8A/B.  He said he too 
knew that fast was worthless.I took a schematic to him and he said that 
the time variance between fast and medium was such that fast was 10 
times faster than medium.  This is not a good design in principal, 
according to him.  Instead he prefers a factor of 5 times, that is fast 
ought to be 5 times faster than medium.

He suggested component changes, and I found that changing R1124 to a 
470Kohm and C1114 and C1118 to .01uFD did the trick.  MUCH better. The 
customer was very 

Re: [Drakelist] R7 AGC issues

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 11 May 2013 22:52:57 +0200, Dieter Horst wrote:

@Jim, would you say that the service manual describes the right methode 
for aligning the AGC?
I have had my doubts about it in the past, mostly because 'fast' would 
always create trouble.


Yes. In my discussions with John, he told me that the ACG Bias adjustment
R1127 (A.K.A. AGC Pedestal) is basically not used, being left as set in the
instructions (fully clockwise). The IF gain pot is actually used to set the AGC
pedestal in this scenario. I've tried two or three alternate procedures, both
of my own and other's devising, but once I understood what was going on the
book method seemed to work the best. There are two sections, coarse and final
adjustment. If things are pretty close, coarse probably does not need to be
done. 

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] 4 pin plug....

[Jim Shorney]

That would be a 5AB2 Cinch. Virtually unobtanium, unless you have a source for
old (as in 8-track/early cassette days) car stereo cables. You will have to
fabricate your own.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 19:17:54 -0700 (PDT), Fred or Ski wrote:

Hello the List,
 
I have been looking for the 4 pin accessory connector(plug) that is used on 
the 2B and the 4 line receivers.  I have been thinking of building accessories 
for them and want to plug them in.  Does anyone have any idea where they can 
be obtained?  Looking thru Mouser or Digikey was fruitless as there was so 
many that I couldn't be sure of the compatibility.  Anyone have any ideas?
 
Thanks,
Ski-WB8YXI

--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] For Sale Items.

[Jim Shorney]

I think the perception often is that someone interested in a particular item
will know what it is. Regardless, it is incumbent on the buyer to perform due
diligence and do the research. If I don't do my homework and end up with
something that I can't use, it's my fault. Been there, done that. The internet
is a wonderful place, and Google can be your best friend.

As for rude sellers, it happens. We all have deal with it sooner or later. They
shoot themselves in the foot. You can choose. There was generally more than one
made of any particular item. :)

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Fri, 12 Apr 2013 18:13:23 -0700 (PDT), lane denune wrote:

 If there is something for sale, Please notify us new hams to not bother with 
 our insipid and stupid questions to sellers, Just like I did with a Drakelist 
 seller, Mr. Skid.  Seems to not be a true Amateur Radio brother, but 
 rather a profit seeking rogue in our midst.When communicated with he gives no 
 details and seems to have little to no knowledge of what he tries to pawn off 
 ...

--
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Doctor, Amy’s Choice



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Re: [Drakelist] DRAKE C Line + Ten Tec Titan 425 Amp.

[Jim Shorney]

All of the radios and amps that I have seen use a negative ALC control voltage.
I suppose some newer solid-state gear could be different, but I don't know.
Perhaps someone can enlighten me. Where the amplifier has a level adjustment
control, compatibility issues should be minimal.

To make the blanket statement don't use ALC is doing yourself and your fellow
hams a disservice. There is a difference between ALC as used for syllabic
compression in modern rigs, and the classic threshold style ALC as used in our
Drakes. This article discusses why ALC used as syllabic compression in modern
rigs is bad:

http://www.sm5bsz.com/dynrange/alc.htm

Now, good ALC

ALC can help tame exciter overshoot. This reduces stress on system components.
ALC can also prevent overdrive of the amplifier during normal operation when
properly used. This is important, for several reasons. Unless you are
monitoring your transmit envelope with an oscilloscope, you had better be using
ALC. There's no other reliable way to see if you are overdriving. Overdrive =
splatter and distortion. OK if you are a guitarist, not so good on radio. With
ALC, you set your system up with a CW level and you are good to go. It's really
pretty simple. 

http://www.kk5dr.com/Tuneup.htm
http://www.hamradiomarket.com/articles/ALC%20for%20real.htm

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Tue, 12 Feb 2013 12:51:40 -0500, Mike Bryce wrote:

That's true...

if you were to connect the drake transceiver to a drake amplifier life would 
be good. Birds would sing, the sun would shine. Life is good.

But there is no standard as to how much, what flavor, or how much voltage or 
even if it should be positive or negative going  on ALC.

The ALC generated by an amplifier may as well be in Vulcan if the transceiver 
can't understand what to do with it. And while the engineers who included knew 
of its value, no one sat them down and decided on a standard.

bottom line?

Don't worry about the ALC

mike, wb8vge


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] DRAKE C Line + Ten Tec Titan 425 Amp.

[Jim Shorney]

The gain control circuit in the Drake may not have enough range to reduce the
output enough. You are quite right, in that you DO NOT want to overdrive the
amplifier. There are various ways to reduce the output of the transmitter, and
some amplifiers have internal options for high/low drive level. 

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Tue, 12 Feb 2013 12:28:42 -0600, Woody wrote:

Just asking a question on this subject, I have a Ten Tec Titan 425 and with 35 
watts drive I get 1500 watts out, I didn't think you could cut the output down 
on the Drake that much with the gain and still have sufficient  audio output. 
I would think that with the normal output from the Drake you would have the 
Titan jumping off the desk, without the ALC. But of course I have never tried 
to hook my Drakes up to one.

--
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relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] DRAKE C Line + Ten Tec Titan 425 Amp.( Drakelist Digest, Vol 56, Issue 6)

[Jim Shorney]

Roger,

I'm not sure what your Centurion problem was, but the T-4X *has* a set of relay
contacts available to key an amplifier. These are brought out through the power
supply, and is called VOX RELAY, although they operate whenever the transmitter
is placed in transmit mode whether by PTT, VOX, or MOX. Typically this is all
you need to operate the T/R relay built into the amplifier. 

ACG (also known as ALC in the case of a transmitter) is a threshold-based gain
control voltage intended to be fed back to the transmitter. It has nothing to
do with placing the amplifier or the radio in transmit mode. Nothing will
happen until the set point is reached. It is not a continuously operating
compression signal as is found in some more modern rigs (which does tend to
cause unwanted distortion products). Despite claims to the otherwise, there are
some very good technical reasons to use ALC.

(Please trim your replies when responding to digest messages, your response was
difficult to find in the text of the entire digest message).

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Mon, 11 Feb 2013 13:24:34 -0800, Roger Smith wrote:

Paul, I have a Ten Tec Centurion amp and ran into the same problem. It 
appears that an external TX relay switch is needed to make it work.  My 
manual says to use a DOW-KEY, DK-6Q-G2C or other similar relay. The T-4X 
series is designed to interface with the L-4B amp and uses the AGC and 
Vox to switch the amp.

Roger


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
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Re: [Drakelist] DRAKE C Line + Ten Tec Titan 425 Amp.

[Jim Shorney]

Paolo,

It may be because the ALC is a threshold-based feedback voltage, intended
mainly as a method to prevent amplifier overdrive. It is not designed to
regulate power level over a range, but rather to limit a maximum level.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Mon, 11 Feb 2013 20:30:01 +0100, Paolo Emanuelli IK1QHB wrote:

you know the t-4xc power output is very sensible to the AC line; few volts of 
anodic voltage can change drive power that drive the AMP, and sometimes i see 
the power jump up or down hundreds watts.
I have think to us the ALC for fix the problem...
but don't work and i don't know why...



--
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Doctor, Amy’s Choice



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Re: [Drakelist] DRAKE C Line + Ten Tec Titan 425 Amp.

[Jim Shorney]

On Mon, 11 Feb 2013 21:08:45 -0500, Robert Henry wrote:

Hi,  Do not use ALC,  73


Why not? There are good technical reasons to use it, and the engineers who
incuded it must have known them.

73

-Jim
NU0C

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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 digital readout

[Jim Shorney]

The service manual states that you can jump into the alignment at any point if
you are confident that all of the adjustments preceding that point are correct,
but that the subsequent adjustments should all be performed in order through
the end to ensure proper operation. It may be that only the 40 MHz (section 3-3
 of the service manual) needs to be adjusted as Joe says, but at a minimum, I
would suggest the OP also check the +10V adjustment (section 3-1) to ensure
that it is where it is supposed to be. Don't adjust it if it's close, otherwise
you are committed to the rest. The 10V adjustment affects everything.

I usually do 3-1 through 3-6. Then if the radio isn't in bad shape, I will just
check 3-12 and 3-16 (and 3-15 if it seems justified) after that. If a frequency
alignment is all that's necessary, just 3-1 through 3-6 is sufficient. Due to
the ease with which the trimpots on the PS board in the front can be bumped out
of adjustment, IMO it is good practice to at least check 3-6 whenever the cover
is removed from the radio for any reason. Although frequency alignment does
require a fine touch, it isn't all that difficult if you have a sensitive and
accurate frequency counter and are handy with tools. The pots in 3-6 can even
be set close enough for government work without a frequency counter by
following a published Drake tech note that can be found several places on the
web. Free service manuals can also be found on the web, and some nice reprints
are available from online vendors if you don't have one.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 20:28:43 -0500, Joe Pyles wrote:

Adjust L1001 on the PBT/Reference board to put the 40 mhz oscillator 
back on frequency. The 40 Mhz oscillator provides
the 500 khz reference for the DR7 board. the 40 mhz crystal tends to 
drift more than the other two crystals on the PBT/Reference board.

73, Joe KC9LAD

At 05:37 PM 12/23/2012, you wrote:
My TR-7 digital readout is off by 100 hz. Can anyone tell me how to 
correct it?

I appreciate any and all help.

James Wilson
N5DBS



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The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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[Drakelist] Online forum down

[Jim Shorney]

Thom, the SMF forum is down! I needed to get to an article tonight and got this:


Warning: Unterminated comment starting line 2 in 
/home/zerobeat/domains/zerobeat.net/public_html/drakelist/smf/Settings.php on 
line 2

Fatal error: fatal flex scanner internal error--end of buffer missed in 
/home/zerobeat/domains/zerobeat.net/public_html/drakelist/smf/Settings.php on 
line 2

73

-Jim
NU0C


--
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Doctor, Amy’s Choice



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Re: [Drakelist] Please, I want out... How can I get removed?

[Jim Shorney]

On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 19:37:37 -0800, centi...@nym.hush.com wrote:

Yikes!?!?!


It is STILL the last link at the end of every message.





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Re: [Drakelist] 60 Meter Operation

[Jim Shorney]

On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 18:27:34 -0500 (EST), K9sqg wrote:

Is the issue of frequency accuracy, plus stability, not a consideration when 
attempting 60 meter operation with a 4-line?


Perhaps, but maybe less so than the in-band spurs.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
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Doctor, Amy’s Choice



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Re: [Drakelist] Please, I want out... How can I get removed?

[Jim Shorney]

On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 23:11:14 -0500, Chuck Grandgent wrote:

sorry to add to the wasted bandwidth, but it is likely that this is automated 
spam.


I don't think so. He responded via direct to my post, and the header trail
checks out. It does not appear to be spoofed, at least.

73

-Jim
NU0C


--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor, Amy’s Choice



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Re: [Drakelist] L7 Thermostat

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 27 Oct 2012 12:43:13 -0700 (PDT), Glen Kirkpatrick wrote:

I am looking for a thermostat for an L7. Any idea where to get one, or 
equivalent part numbers?

Second hit on Google:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/42156044/Drake-Partlist

Also found here:

http://www.hamradio.no/la3tq/partlist.pdf

It appears to be a Therm-O-Disc 36T ser
36T02:

http://www.thermodisc.com/en-US/Products/Bimetal/Pages/36T.aspx

http://www.thermodisc.com/en-US/Products/Bimetal/Documents/36T_Product_Bulletin.
pdf

36T02 being No mounting bracket, contacts close on temperature rise. The
actual operating temp of the L-7 thermostat may need to be determined by
markings on the part (if present), or empirically from a known good unit.

73

-Jim
NU0C


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] ham item for sale

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 26 Oct 2012 16:20:53 +, Hudson, John@CalEMA wrote:

Jim really?


Which Jim? If you're referring to Pruitt, he's right. If you are referring to
me, well, people who get offended want to be.

73

-Jim
NU0C


--

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Re: [Drakelist] ham item for sale

[Jim Shorney]

Do you guys realize that it took you longer to type and send these repsonses
than it would have taken to just use your DELETE key?

I, for one, don't mind such occasional listings. It's kind of fun to see what
pops out of the woodwork, and I might just see something I want.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 22:16:48 +, mark depaepe  wrote:

Concur.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife



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Re: [Drakelist] ham item for sale

[Jim Shorney]

OK, so who wants to spank me for asking for a Gonset knob here? :)

73

-Jim (found one elsewhere, BTW)
NU0C


On Fri, 26 Oct 2012 01:59:39 +, Hudson, John@CalEMA wrote:

Jim the beauty of the Drake list, as you know, is that it's all about Drake's 
and nothing else. There are many other forums to sell their wares or post dx 
spots or name your niche. This is the Drake reflector not the Collins, yaesu, 
name your manufacture. To embrace a broader policy invites a watered down 
forum and we loose what makes our reflector special.

I'm sure many others agree,

John N. Hudson, WA6HYQ

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Jim Shorney]

Thanks, Thom. I'll send it to you if I ever gat a round tuit. :)

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 07:11:30 -0400, Thom LaCosta wrote:

At 10:52 PM 8/7/2012, Jim Shorney wrote:

The version on the online forum has a note about this mod being for 
the Version
1 Digital Control board. I was unaware of the Version 2 board when I wrote
this, and have not worked out the mod for it because I have not had one at my
disposal.

If you do get one and write up the mod, I'll be mmore than happy to 
post it on the web site.

73
Thom k3hrn


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Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Jim Shorney]

That would be it.

The version on the online forum has a note about this mod being for the Version
1 Digital Control board. I was unaware of the Version 2 board when I wrote
this, and have not worked out the mod for it because I have not had one at my
disposal.

On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 08:21:31 -0700, Jim Pruitt wrote:

And the answer was...?
 
Would that be at:
http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg09805.html ?

 On 8/6/2012 at 3:43 PM, jshor...@inebraska.com wrote:


This was just answered on the Yahoo DrakeRadio forum. The info is
published in
the Drakelist Online Forum.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Mon, 6 Aug 2012 11:35:15 -0700 (PDT), Allen Bush wrote:

Sometime ago someone posted information about a better out of band
transmit modification that was a bit more complex than just cutting one
trace on the motherboard.  I believe it still allowed the out of lock
detector to work to stop unexpected off frequency transmissions.  I
can't seem to find the information in the archives.  Can anyone help me
with this.  Ive got a new TR-7A open on the bench and would like to
do the mod while it is opened up getting a few filters added.
 
Allen Bush, W0OUU

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a 
stick.” –
The Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



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Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Jim Shorney]

This was just answered on the Yahoo DrakeRadio forum. The info is published in
the Drakelist Online Forum.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Mon, 6 Aug 2012 11:35:15 -0700 (PDT), Allen Bush wrote:

Sometime ago someone posted information about a better out of band transmit 
modification that was a bit more complex than just cutting one trace on the 
motherboard.  I believe it still allowed the out of lock detector to work to 
stop unexpected off frequency transmissions.  I can't seem to find the 
information in the archives.  Can anyone help me with this.  Ive got a new 
TR-7A open on the bench and would like to do the mod while it is opened up 
getting a few filters added.
 
Allen Bush, W0OUU

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



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Re: [Drakelist] 30V on keys and only max output on CW

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2012 22:26:49 -0400, ab...@comcast.net wrote:

My T4-XC is putting 30 V to the keys.  Recently I noticed my bugs being hot. 
 Looks like 30V is running through them.

This is normal. The T-4XC uses grid block keying. See:

http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg07294.html

73

-Jim
NU0C


--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



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Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement

[Jim Shorney]

Simple answer, the red numbering for dB-over-9 numbers in the 7-line S-Meter is
turned to black by the pure blue LEDs. I liked the ice blue look for the
7-Line, but losing the red highlights always bugged me. With the warm white,
the red is back, although maybe not quite as noticable as with real lamps. 

And the closer-to-original coloring keeps Garey off my back ;)

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 08:45:56 -0700, Jim Pruitt wrote:

Jim,

why not these:
http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=104categoryId=2

or these:

http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=361categoryId=60

The above of course are their blue led 44/47 bulbs.  Are the super brights 
too bright?

Thank you for the links and ideas.

Jim Pruitt

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Shorney To: Drake Reflector
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement


I just put these in my TR-7:

 http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=31categoryId=6
 Oops, should have used this link:

 http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=984categoryId=150


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TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
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Re: [Drakelist] LED source for Drake gear

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 18:35:00 -0400 (EDT), K9sqg wrote:

Radiolabworks is the best source of LEDs for Drake gear in my opinion but I 
don't have experience with all of the dealers...


There's a good pic on his site that shows what happens to the red highlights:

http://www.radiolabworks.com/products/tr7lamp/d7lamp.html

73

-Jim
NU0C

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Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 19:23:26 -0400, john wrote:

And the closer-to-original coloring keeps Garey off my back ;)

We support our local original police !

I swear, the butler did it!

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 21 Jul 2012 18:17:19 +, Jim wrote:

So back in the day, brand new out of the box, were the 4-line dials blue, blue 
- green, or green?

Conventional wisdom is that they were very close to this:

http://www.pnta.com/lighting/gels/lee-172-lagoon-blue/

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
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Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



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Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement

[Jim Shorney]

Homebrew Blue page updated with Cointaker warm white frosted LED info:

http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/blue.html

I'm having a devil of a time getting accurate colors with my camera, but the
page background color is now Lee Filters Lagoon Blue, copied from their web
page image. Includes information on Lee  172 and Rosco E-Color 172 gels.

73

-Jim
NU0C


--
Apostrophe Abuse - the forgotten crime against grammar.
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Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement

[Jim Shorney]

I just put these in my TR-7:

http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=31categoryId=6

I ordered 10 of them and it came in well under $10. Although specified for 6.3
VAC, they appear to have a built in bridge rectifier and function just fine
from 13.6 VDC with a 180 Ohm series resistor. The end result is much closer to
the original Drake coloring (with proper filters) than the ice blue of blue
LEDs.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Thu, 19 Jul 2012 13:52:41 -0700 (PDT), GALE STEWARD wrote:

Try this link. I purchased a few different colors of the 44/47 retro LEDs.
 
 
http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc;jsessionid=BF7354FAC3C32E53952C9DF7F0BE257B.qscstrfrnt05?categoryId=150

 

--

It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - 
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Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement

[Jim Shorney]

On Thu, 19 Jul 2012 20:05:48 -0500, Jim Shorney wrote:


I just put these in my TR-7:

http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=31categoryId=6


Oops, should have used this link:

http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=984categoryId=150


73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Pertaining to Dial Scale and S-meter lighting question by Al, ...

[Jim Shorney]

Blue has been covered quite thoroughly in this list in the past, in this thread 
among others:

http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg10121.html

The archive can be your friend.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 19:47:18 -0400 (EDT), leecra...@aol.com wrote:

Dick:
 
Drop Steve, KG9BV, an email at _kg9bv@yahoo.com_ (mailto:kg...@yahoo.com) . 
 He sells the blue  filter material specifically to fix your problem.  Last 
I checked it was  quite reasonable.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 7/18/2012 3:48:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
conklin.rich...@mchsi.com writes:

I'm in  the process of restoring a TR-4Cx. Here are my unedited 7/15/2012 
notes  concerning lighting differences:
The illumination color is different for  the panel frequency dials on the 
right (bluish-white) and the receive signal  strength  transmitter plate 
current meters on the left  (warm-white).  Turns out that the blue-green gel 
between the pilot lamp  and the meters has faded to clear in the center.  I 
have no idea where to  get replacement gel material. (Perhaps a theater 
lighting supplier?) 
[Unit  would probably appear a bit better if both gels were replaced with a 
matching  close color gel.]

I believe this has been caused by the closer  proximity of the gel to the 
pilot lamp on the S-meter assembly. 

Dick  Conklin, WA2WGY/9

--  




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Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] W-4 Meter Movement wanted

[Jim Shorney]

Let me know if you can't find the info, I might be able to come up with
something, but it would take a little time and digging. As I recall, the only
real complication for the butterfingered would be removal of the front cover of
the meter movements and swapping the calibrated scale plates. The mechanical
fit is exact, it is the same basic movement with slight variations in the
pointer shape and color.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Tue, 10 Jul 2012 21:10:28 -0500, Steven KA9MOT wrote:

Thanks for the guidance Jim!

Steve KA9MOT

On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 9:54 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote:

 On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 00:04:04 -0500, Steven KA9MOT wrote:

 I'm having terrible luck replacing mine. Anybody have one of=r know of an
 existing substitute? 200ma
 


 Yep, but you'll have to search the Drakelist archive. There was a
 discussion a
 couple of years ago about a Motorola (I think) panel meter from base
 station
 racks that is the same physical movement, but with a different coil
 resistance.
 Easily adapted to work, I found one on eBay and used it in a WV-4. Another
 list
 member subsequently bought several, and was offering them for sale. He may
 still have some.

 73

 -Jim
 NU0C

 --

 It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange
 thing, but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish
 meatballs! I suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will
 either never be explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned
 the truth! - G'Kar, Babylon 5



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Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] W-4 Meter Movement wanted

[Jim Shorney]

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 00:04:04 -0500, Steven KA9MOT wrote:

I'm having terrible luck replacing mine. Anybody have one of=r know of an 
existing substitute? 200ma
 


Yep, but you'll have to search the Drakelist archive. There was a discussion a
couple of years ago about a Motorola (I think) panel meter from base station
racks that is the same physical movement, but with a different coil resistance.
Easily adapted to work, I found one on eBay and used it in a WV-4. Another list
member subsequently bought several, and was offering them for sale. He may
still have some.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--

It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - 
G'Kar, Babylon 5



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7

[Jim Shorney]

Y'know, I just had that area apart on mine a week and a half ago, but I don't
recall the specifics of the mounting. The collector of Q2101 is definitely hot,
but it is a plastic encased device with the only exposed metal on the back
side, as I recall. Metal hardware on the top side shouln't be a problem. If it
were, the rig wouldn't be working at all, as you would have no +10V.

U2102 is the 5 volt regulator IC, and should have a plastic bushing under the
nut. Although it could be bolted directly to ground, as the tab of the device
is common to the ground leg, Drake may have chosen not to do so to avoid the
possibility of a ground loop in the 5V supply. If there's no plastic bushing,
someone messed up somewhere along the line.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 1 Jul 2012 20:08:26 -0700, k6uo wrote:

I'm trying to get the audio on my TR7 to work properly and making some 
progress. One thing
that seems strange, Q2101 and Q2102 on the power supply board have mica 
isolators behind
them attached
with metal hardware which defeats the isolators and I can't imagine the 
transistors shouldn't be
attached to the heatsink.  Anyone know?


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] My TR-7 restore and tantalum caps

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 30 Jun 2012 13:35:41 -0400, KR4HV wrote:


Are there any documents that compile or  list the must do vs. should do 
vs. very nice to do upgrades/changes and modifications for the TR-7?

Yes and no. The list archive can be your friend, most mods have been discussed
pretty thoroughly. Web site wb4hfn.com has some excellent articles, and also
look for the GW4ALG and PA0CMU mods pages (but don't go nuts with mods). And,
of course, the Drakelist home page. If there's a specific mod that strikes your
fancy, ask about it. My page on the 2nd IF/Audio board is a good read, although
still a work in progress: 

http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/TR7_2IFA.html

Do re-seat all the plug-in cards. Do replace the filter electrolytic on the
power supply board. Do the 10V adjustment, frequency, and AGC (if the 10V was
very far off) adjustments in the service manual, or if nothing else, do the
fixed passband adjusments. If the PTO lamp has ever been replaced, you can just
about guarantee that one or more of those pots was bumped. Upgrading them to
10-turn trimmers is a worthwhile mod. There's been some debate about ALC mods
lately, but I don't seem to have the ALC overshoot that others have seen. I
need to get back on that Do put a fan on the back, pulling air out, if you
don't have one already. If you're a CW op, do look at K8AC's fine tuning of the
CW waveshape. K8AC and I have both done some recent work in the S-Meter area,
but we may both arguably just have too much time on our hands...

Don't use the published Drake allband transmit mod, there's a better way.
Again, check list the archives (and the Drakelist Online Forum). Don't use a
preamplified mic. Don't set the ALC adjustment (bottom side of rig) for more
than 150 Watts CW output, some ops prefer less. Don't freak if the RX appears
to be dead, there's an internal jumper that will have been cut if the rig was
slaved with an R-7 in a previous life. Remember that this rig has no speech
processing built in, so average power on SSB will appear lower than on modern
rigs - use the ALC light to determine proper drive level.

Or should I just try to search all the posts for the info, like newer board 
versions etc.?

Yes. There's lots of stuff out there about mixers, Schottky diodes, DDS VFOs,
DSP, whatever. Some of it good, some debatable, some bad or not worthwhile. You
can spend hours sniffing it all out (I did :) ). Google (or Ixquick, if you're
paranoid) can be your friend. Also recommended is the DrakeRadio Yahoo group.
There's not much in the way of newer board versions that offer any real
advantage that I know of, and at least one ham that I know of has found the
version 1 2nd IF/Audio board to be preferable.

Have fun!

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Jim Shorney]

You may find this of interest. A VERY worthwhile upgrade, highly recommended:

http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark5

Also, replace the electrolytic cap(s) while you are working on the PS board.
You will be glad you did. That may be the source of your +25 problem anyway.
Any Tantalums can be left as is, they should be OK.

73

-Jim
NU0C



On Fri, 29 Jun 2012 13:57:18 -0400, Mike Williams wrote:

While troubleshooting a VCO power supply problem,  R2103, the 1K pot on the PS 
board fell off!  Just what I needed while trying to get this radio going 
again.  I know this is an old topic, but does anyone know where to find a 
replacement that will fit on the board, or perhaps someone has one they will 
part with.  Any assistance  is certainly appreciated.  

PS:  the +25 Vdc rail for the vco is reading 17 volts so I suspect the problem 
is with the  PS board or something loading down the rail.

Thanks for any assistance,

Mike  W4DL


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 29 Jun 2012 16:12:23 -0500, Brian Koontz wrote:


I had a tantalum cap on my PS literally explode...I was very
surprised, figured that was a rare event.  But not rare enough to
replace all of them?  (I went ahead and did anyways...)

Tantalums can fail quite dramatically, they are especially sensitive to surges
beyond ratings. The rule of thumb that I have come to use is that if they
appear physically intact, they are good.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] My TR7 at FD

[Jim Shorney]

On Thu, 28 Jun 2012 20:33:02 -0500 (CDT), K3VX wrote:

Took both a TR7 and a IC706MkIIG to a very hot FD tent. The IC706 overheated 
in a few hours of CW pounding 
and the power output dropped to less than 50W. Afraid of more damage I
replaced it with the TR7 which was almost flawless for the remainder of FD. 
Result was very happy operators.

I would have shelved the 706 straightaway and used the TR-7 for the whole
event. The TR-7 has a much tighter RX, especially under extreme conditions.
I've had 706 owners come away from my TR-7 at FD wide-eyed with wonder and
amazement. ;)

1. T/R antenna relay would stick (fortunately very infrequently) so instead of 
returning to previous RX sensitivity the signals were way down.
Remedy?

Replace the relay, if that's what it really is. It's an off-the-shelf plug-in.
Could also be a slightly dirty bandswitch.

2. Is there a way to change the tuning rate (on the display it's 100Hz steps) 
to 10Hz steps?

Not sure what you are asking here. The TR-7 has an analog VFO, so the tuning
rate is how fast you can spin the knob. If you are talking about display
resolution, the digital readout in the TR-7 is a dedicated frequency counter.
The only way to increase the resolution is to add another decade to the counter
circuitry.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7

[Jim Shorney]

The first thing to do with any TR-7 suffering from strange problems is to check
for dirty/oxidized Molex pin connectors between the plug-in cards and the
parent board. Often simply exercising them by unplugging and plugging back in a
couple of times is enough. Also highly recommended is to replace the
electrolytic cap(s) on the VR board while you're in there.

Despite it's apparent complexity, the TR-7 is actually pretty simple in the way
it works. :)

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 10:21:36 -0700, k6uo wrote:

To all the helpful folks on the list,

I have a number of Drake radios and recently I was given a TR7 with audio 
problems. Upper and lower sideband
sound the same. I have a service manual and a set of extender boards. The 10V 
adjustment is exactly 10 Volts and
the 40 MHz oscillator is 40 MHz,  the VCXO is 53.695. The 8.05 MHz oscillator 
is where I’m having problems,
following the instructions in the manual, I see 10.564 MHz at pin 40 and C1030 
doesn’t have much effect.
Sideband audio sounds like it’s on the opposite sideband, the adjustments on 
the VR board don’t change
the audio.
I have a fairly good background in repair, but you know about the age thing—.
Any help and guidance will be greatly appreciated.


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] Are you ready for your close-up, Mr. Drake?

[Jim Shorney]

Field Day news video. I had nothing to do with the shooting or editing of this 
report, they shot a ton of B-roll footage Saturday and this is what got aired. 
The young lady obviously has an advanced and discerning sense of taste (which 
also explains why I'm not in any of the shots...).

http://www.1011now.com/home/headlines/Ham_Radio_Operators_Gather_for_Drill_160135775.html

The TR-7 has the warm white frosted LED lamps from cointaker.com, just 
installed last week. I think it looks very good.

73

-Jim
NU0C



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Are you ready for your close-up, Mr. Drake?

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 24 Jun 2012 23:35:05 -0400 (EDT), Lee Craner wrote:

Reminds me of a field day many yearrs ago.  One of our three some brought his 
then brand new TS940.  That was to be our primary xcvr, with my old TR-7  as 
back up.  As it turned out, his fancy Kenwood couldn't handle generator 
fluctuations, questionable grounding, etc. and kept locking up or powering 
down.  The TR-7 saved the weekend and I never let him forget that.


Great story, Lee! One of our club members has one of those fancy YaeComWood
BFG-9000 radios with the huge LCD color display and every bell and whistle
imaginable, that he usually brings to run 40 CW. I think it was the first year
he brought it, a generator hiccup blew the LCD backlight. Now he uses a battery
system to power it. I have the TR-7 up and running before he even finishes
loading in. Even with the fancy aircraft headset and the SP-75, there's less
stuff to plug in.

Between the two core runners and several more casual operators, we did 740 Qs
on 20 fone (353 of which were moi). The rig didn't even break a sweat, so to
speak. The TR-7 consistently impresses me with it's ability to dig a signal out
through heavy QRM. There were times when 20 seemed to blast wide open and
everyone could hear everyone else, and you couldn't tell who was talking to
who. Great fun!

True story, a few years ago a relatively new ham who was a major IC-706-2G fan
said of the TR-7, I can't believe how easy it is to hear signals on that
radio!  Another ham who has a clue expressed that The TR-7 hears EVERYTHING
and it hears NOTHING. I'll probably have to explain that one to some
people :)

73

-Jim
NU0C



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Are you ready for your close-up, Mr. Drake?

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 24 Jun 2012 22:52:54 -0500, Keith R Erickson wrote:

In 1983 I loaded my tr7 to Kearney club, as I could not attend.  When hooked 
up to battery , reversed polarity.  Took out the finals, o back to drake and a 
300 dollar repair bill.

Yikes, I hope they paid for it. I did a complete PA rebuild with newer devices
a couple of years ago, even though just the drivers were bad. Came in at arund
half that, IIRC. Generally, the PA is pretty bulletproof, but reverse polarity
is a killer. They must not have had it properly fused if the suicide diode
didn't save it.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Version #1 TR 7 Predriver

[Jim Shorney]

As I recall, the gain pot on the V1 predriver was problematical; Drake service
notes basically said to leave it alone unless you absolutely have to adjust it.
Other than that, I'm just making a wild guess that the V2 board may bhave been
a cost saving redesign. Someone else may have more info.

When I had strange oscillation problems (not to be confused with the 40-Meter
oscillation problem in V2 boards) in my rig, it turned out to be leaky driver
transistors on the PA board. 

You can read about my adventures here:

http://zerobeat.net/drakelist/smf/index.php/topic,224.0.html

73

-Jim
NU0C



On Thu, 14 Jun 2012 21:17:30 -0500, Lloyd2 wrote:

I am working on a TR7 that the transmitter PA breaks into oscillation every 
time the it is keyed.  Is there a design issue with the version 1 predriver 
that caused Drake to change to the version 2 board ,or should I rule it out 
and focus on the PA itself?

TNX,
Lloyd - K4HWB


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] My TR-7 appears in K0NEB's Dayton 2012 slide show!

[Jim Shorney]

http://youtu.be/M3W0km6L8DQ

Published on May 27, 2012 by joehusker

The long wait from year to year anticipating Hamvention is portrayed in this
video commemorating the 2012 Dayton Hamvention and my 33rd trip. Enjoy seeing
some of the new radios and the fun to be had at the Dayton Hamvention.

Very early in the video, my TR-7 is not hard to spot with K0NEB at the mike
underneath my Telex Echelon 150 ANR headset doing contest duty. The operating
position is in the Crush, an older Winnebago RV outfitted as an emergency
comms center by Lancaster County (Nebraska) Emergency Management and on more or
less permanent loan to LARC.

The same setup will again be on 20 fone for Field Day this year. Look for
K0KKV, we should be pretty loud on the 4-element monband Yagi.

73

-Jim
NU0C





--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Completely Dead (No lights or sounds...)

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 20 May 2012 12:18:33 -0500, Brian Koontz wrote:


Look at the small transformer at the lower left of the rig.  I had a
dead rig too, and part of the ferrite core had fallen off to the
bottom of the unit.  Glued it all back together (don't forget the
little white wire that wraps around the transformer, it's important
for some reason I forget now), and rig worked again.


Transformer core malfunction does not (or, should not) produce a completely
dead radio as described. What this causes is loss of +24 and -5 volts, which
causes a host of other problems, but the rig still lights up.

73

-Jim
NU0C


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 13:24:29 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:

Apparently I've become 'persona non grata' over there.


Seriously? Who in their right mind would give Obi-Wan Barrell the boot? That's
just WRONG.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist

[Jim Shorney]

That's a shame, because Drakelist gets a lot of free advertising over there. I
suppose not any more, eh?

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 14:02:54 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:

I apologize for the confusion I have caused.

As a result of being 'uninvited' to post here on 'drakelist', I will be on

drakera...@yahoo.com

effective immediately.

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Remedial Reading Classes May Be Required

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 15:27:10 -0400, Thom LaCosta wrote:

Now, if you REALLY READ WHAT I SAID, it simply tells Gary not to 
pollute the list with his
whines and endorsements of other lists.  It does not say he could not post.


What you may not realize, Thom, is that Garey and others (including myself)
that partake in other Drake lists/groups often refer new users to this
Drakelist as well. Free advertising, if you will. I don't think there's any
attemts to favor one list over another, but frankly, this list does seem to be
a bit buggy at times. I can understand the frustrations, I guess I just don't
complain as much (which might surprise some who know me).

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] New IRC Channel

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 15:24:43 -0700, Richard Knoppow wrote:

the thing works and I will try it again:-)

Confirmed, it works with Chatzilla.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist

[Jim Shorney]

The repeater owner has the right to decide who can use his hardware. He can't
stop anyone from talking simplex on his repeater frequency, but he can say who
can use his hardware. Free speech only exists to the extent that the owner of
the medium allows it.

Mailing lists are not democracies, they are controlled by the list *OWNER* and
moderators. That's the way it is. It's only a free speech issue in the same
sense that I can allow someone to place a sign in my yard for my favorite
political candidate, but forbid a sign for his opponent. Everyone can see it
from the street, but I decide the content. In that sense, it is my free speech
that is being expressed, and the repeater owner's, and Thom's. The list owner
owns the list, or they wouldn't call him that.

The slip side of that is the freee speech that we call spam doesn't get
through on a well-managed list.

73

-Jim

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 20:56:34 -0400, Richard wrote:

I have only one comment to make, which may or may not be applicable.  
Sometimes moderators on forums  are like the Folks that are on condo boards.  
I have seen this on several forums.  It creates problems from the libertarian 
types.  Free speech should prevail. Some think the first amendment does not 
apply on the Internet.  I demur.  On the forums no one regulates the 
regulators, so people vote with their feet.  This is similar to the FCC 
letting repeater operators kick people off the repeater.  They do not own the 
frequency any more than the person that they disagree with. Who owns the 
Internet?


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] Trimiing quotes and changing subject line (was Re: Drakelist Digest, Vol 46, Issue 2)

[Jim Shorney]

On Mon, 2 Apr 2012 06:31:57 -0400, Mike Williams wrote:

Good one!

day's worth of digest posts snipped

Mike,

Because you didn't trim the quoted text or edit the subject line, we really
have no idea which one you thought was good.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



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Re: [Drakelist] Article by Garey K4OAH

[Jim Shorney]

As did I, and I found a copy of the April issue in my email inbox within a few
hours. Funny what you find out when you read the web page info  :)

73

-Jim

On Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:53:08 -0400, John Pelham wrote:

At the bottom of this Web page (http://www.k9ya.org/index_telegraph.htm ) it 
says that back issues are available on request, with an email link. I sent an 
email asking for the April issue.


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Tube shields

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 16:19:18 -0800, Richard Knoppow wrote:

 Shields for V6 and V7 were never supplied. I am not 
sure why sockets taking shields were used perhaps because 
they do provide some shielding of the base of the tube.


On the nose, Richard.

73

-Jim



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] OT: (slightly) Hy-Gain/Telex ProCom 200 Headset Help

[Jim Shorney]

Chris,

I can check Monday for you, I work in the Telex service center. Very slim
chance, anything related to end of service products is usually disposed of
forthwith these days, but we might get lucky. At any rate, it's probably not
very complicated a task.

73

-Jim



On Fri, 17 Feb 2012 09:21:06 -0800, Chris Kepus wrote:

Hi all,

 

Does anyone have an instruction sheet/manual for this great headset (circa
1980) that you could scan for me? I had it working on VOX with my T-4XC, but
want to wire it with a foot switch so I can use it with my Valiant and
DX-100.  

 

Sources already checked: current web search, Wayback machine search, QST
archives, Bama, Mods.dk, Hy-Gain, Telex, Boatanchors list, etc. etc.  

 

Will be extremely grateful for any help.

 

73,

Chris

W7JPG

 

 




--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 operation on 60 meter questions

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 05:27:28 -0800 (PST), Ron wrote:

Anyone running the TR7 on 60 meters?  If so...


I never  have, but


-how are you making sure you keep w/i the 50 watt PEP limit?

You can keep the mic gain down and reference a PEP reading wattmeter. This
works particularly well if you run an RF speech processor like the SP-75 or
similar.  Another method would be to apply a variable negative DC voltage to
the ALC input and adjust so the ALC kicks in at 50 Watts. Very little current
is required, you can do it with a 9V battery connected across a poteniometer.

-is the factory TR7 audio bandwidth w/i the 2.8 Khz channel limitation?

The SSB filter in the TR-7  is 2.4 KHz, so, yes.

-do you just tune 1.5Khz below center channel?

Most 60 Meter charts that I have seen will show a carrier frequency to use to 
set your signal on the center of the channel. Since the DR-7 is a true carrier
frequency display, that makes it simple. If  you really want to be spot on, you
will need to figure the distance from the TR-7 carrier frequency to the middle
of the 2.4 KHz passband, and  use that value for your channel center offset.

-anything else?


Report back on how it  goes.

73

-Jim



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Pointer knob lines

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 5 Feb 2012 19:40:57 -0500, m coffey wrote:

What suggestions does the group have on re-whitening the lines on the
pointer knobs? I was thinking of using model enamel and a toothpick, wiping
away any excess with qtips. Mike.

I've used almost exactly that methid with all kinds of knobs and Testors gloss
white in the cheap little glass bottles. The old paint usually seems to be
quite soft, and can be easily removed with a toothpick and your favorite
cleaning solution. I've experimented with masking the groove for the line with
Scothc tape, with varying results.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Late R-4C 3rd mixer changes

[Jim Shorney]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2012 21:02:25 -0500, Steve Wedge wrote:

I found something similar that removes some capacitors and changes the feed 
from G1 to the cathode. 


I did this one to mine. Seems to work fine.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 09:36:20 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:

Oh, and the VOX relay contact is right next to it on Pin 8.  A REAL relay 
contact too, none of this 
wimpy reed relay stuff.  :-)

Or surface mount transistors.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 10:32:36 -0500 (EST), K9sqg wrote:

Curious as to why the VOX and ALC come from the power supply rather than the 
rig itself.  I always thought that was a strange arrangement.


Perhaps they though the rear panel of the radio was getting too cluttered. More
puzzling/annoying to me is why some of the asian rigs use a hard to source
mega-DIN connector for these connections.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 11:53:15 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:

I'd be inclined to use the fixed 'line' AUDIO jack.  The counter input can be 
handy, obviously as a 
counter, but also as a good quick troubleshooting tool for the radio.


Or just drill a hole for another RCA jack, or even a mini earphone jack.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7

[Jim Shorney]

Yeah, I understand engineering to price points. On the smaller rigs, it's more
an issue of availabe real estate on the rear panel. Doesn't mean I have to LIKE
it... :)

73

-Jim


On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 08:31:30 -0800 (PST), Ron wrote:

Remember Jim, today's engineering staff (or should I say finance and marketing 
engineering staff) is not to worry about your cost of ownership.  They are 
there to get the equipment sold at best profit margin possible and then 
obsoleted so that you will buy another.  It's all about cash flow.

BTW I am not blaming the companies.  Unfortunately, we do this to ourselves 
with the way we invest, shop and consume.  


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 13:08:15 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:

 A half mA shouldn't be a problem, those lines 
are 'fused' very closely, but they should survive that!  :-)


That's actually funny, because years ago I first heard tech calling transistors
three-legged fuses.

A corollary to Murphy's Law is The transistor will always blow to protect the
fuse.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 13:52:08 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:

you can SEE a little 
blue flash through the ceramic cap


Nice of them to design the device to contain the magic blue smoke, though. 

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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