[Elecraft] Noise-reducing cans

2005-01-03 Thread David J Windisch

Hi, all concerned:

I have tinnitus and some hearing loss at age 61, and have found the 
PlaneQuiet NC-5 cans helpful in the shack and in the mfg shop where I'm a 
tech.  They're light, and they reduce the racket from HVAC, refrigerators, 
freezers, amp blowers, computer blowers, and so on.


http:www.thetravelinsider.info/roadwarriorcontent'planequietnc6headphones.htm

Some plans fell through, and I have 4 NC-5 sets which were new last month, 
in original boxes, with instructions, warranty cards, carrying pouch, and AA 
cell.  These are the ones over which Bose apparently threatened legal action 
over patent infringements of some sort.


The supplier gets $75 a set singly; if you're interested at $60 a set 
shipped domestically, pls email me, [EMAIL PROTECTED] off-reflector.


TIA, HNY and 73, Dave, N3HE 


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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

2005-01-03 Thread walter renner
Whats a KAP100? Sorry about the typo.
I just put up an 1/2 wave antenna for 160 meters that is 260 feet long and 
center fed with 450 ladder line. When RXing on all bands and moving the PWR 
contorl to 11 watts or more so the relay in the PA switches over to high, I get 
erratic noise in the receiver. If I back the PWR down to QRP, then RX  is OK 
again. I am almost sure that this noise is rectified AM signals within the TR 
switch. Not sure if this can be expected with this switching method or if I 
have a component that's bad.  Most of my antennas are Loops  or match and fed 
with coax, and don't display this condition. Several years ago I had a Ten Tec 
transceiver the experinced the sam problem, I resolved by building a high pass 
fillter and installing it in the receive line and the problem went away. Not 
sure there is room for this in the K2.   Any ideas?
Kurt K0ARO
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RE: [Elecraft] Noise-reducing cans

2005-01-03 Thread William Johnson
The link is password protected.

Bill
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David J Windisch
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 7:34 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Noise-reducing cans

Hi, all concerned:

I have tinnitus and some hearing loss at age 61, and have found the 
PlaneQuiet NC-5 cans helpful in the shack and in the mfg shop where I'm a 
tech.  They're light, and they reduce the racket from HVAC, refrigerators, 
freezers, amp blowers, computer blowers, and so on.

http:www.thetravelinsider.info/roadwarriorcontent'planequietnc6headphones.ht
m

Some plans fell through, and I have 4 NC-5 sets which were new last month, 
in original boxes, with instructions, warranty cards, carrying pouch, and AA

cell.  These are the ones over which Bose apparently threatened legal action

over patent infringements of some sort.

The supplier gets $75 a set singly; if you're interested at $60 a set 
shipped domestically, pls email me, [EMAIL PROTECTED] off-reflector.

TIA, HNY and 73, Dave, N3HE 

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[Elecraft] Second AF button... :-(

2005-01-03 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
This is my second AF button that I must change since I built my K2 last spring. 
The button began to get loose again. Sometime the audio fade out a little bit 
and came out right after All the other one are OK, but it seems that the 
POWER button will do the same eventually... in my case.

Hopefully, I have another one in stock... but I will order a few more today...

Maybe a more heavy duty button will be good... at least for those who carry 
often their K2...

73

-- 

Jean-François Ménard, VA2VYZ
Elecraft K2 #4130

--
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[Elecraft] K2 PLL Oscillator Range Test failure (barely)

2005-01-03 Thread B. Scott Andersen

On page 60 of the K2 manual the PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test
asks for the Ref. High Freq. and Ref. Low Freq. measurements. I have

HI = 12099.67
LO = 12090.50
DIFF 9.17

which is less than the 9.8 to 15 kHz required by the manual.
Everything else looks good. Any ideas? Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks.

-- Scott (NE1RD)

PS What a beautiful kit. I'm loving it!

B. Scott Andersen| Magic is real, unless declared integer.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   | -- The collected sayings of Wiz Zumwalt
Acton, Massachusetts | Ham: NE1RD, QRP ARCI#11588, FP#-910

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RE: [Elecraft] Noise-reducing cans

2005-01-03 Thread Chuck Gehring
It's not pasword protected the link had a typo, it should be a forward slash
after roadwarriorcontent
try
http://www.thetravelinsider.info/roadwarriorcontent/planequietnc6headphones.
htm

73 KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of William Johnson
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 8:08 AM
To: 'David J Windisch'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Noise-reducing cans


The link is password protected.

Bill



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David J Windisch
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 7:34 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Noise-reducing cans

Hi, all concerned:

I have tinnitus and some hearing loss at age 61, and have found the
PlaneQuiet NC-5 cans helpful in the shack and in the mfg shop where I'm a
tech.  They're light, and they reduce the racket from HVAC, refrigerators,
freezers, amp blowers, computer blowers, and so on.

http:www.thetravelinsider.info/roadwarriorcontent'planequietnc6headphones.ht
m

Some plans fell through, and I have 4 NC-5 sets which were new last month,
in original boxes, with instructions, warranty cards, carrying pouch, and AA

cell.  These are the ones over which Bose apparently threatened legal action

over patent infringements of some sort.

The supplier gets $75 a set singly; if you're interested at $60 a set
shipped domestically, pls email me, [EMAIL PROTECTED] off-reflector.

TIA, HNY and 73, Dave, N3HE

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PLL Oscillator Range Test failure (barely)

2005-01-03 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm

Scott,

Just to check, can you look at what the voltage swing is at U6 pins 1, 2 and 
3 when you do the Ref High Freq and Ref Low Freq measurements? Compare to 
the voltage table on page 17 of Appendix E in the manual.


If the voltage swings are not correct, you have a likely problem with the 
PLL thermistor board, but if the voltage swings are correct, you should look 
for the problem in the area of the PLL crystal and varactor diodes.  First 
check the soldering carefully, and check all components shown in the 
scheatic  associated with the PLL Reference oscillator area (upper left 
corner of RF board sheet 1 of 4).


If you find all is OK soldering and component wise, it may just be that your 
crystal is not being pulled far enough.  The cure for that is to change L31 
to 12 uH instead of the 10 uH that is currently being shipped with the K2 
kits.  An e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED] should start a new inductor on its 
way to you.  I believe Elecraft is still providing this replacement on an 
'as needed' basis, free of charge.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


On page 60 of the K2 manual the PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test
asks for the Ref. High Freq. and Ref. Low Freq. measurements. I have

HI = 12099.67
LO = 12090.50
DIFF 9.17

which is less than the 9.8 to 15 kHz required by the manual.
Everything else looks good. Any ideas? Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks.




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[Elecraft] crystal oven

2005-01-03 Thread William E. Twaddell
If one does not plan on anything but cw/ssb is it necessry to install 
the crystal oven?

tnx
73
Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] KNB2 Noise Blanker comments from N6KR

2005-01-03 Thread Bill NY9H

At 04:24 AM 1/2/2005, Stewart Baker wrote:


On Sat, 1 Jan 2005 17:51:33 -0800, wayne burdick wrote:
 And now a word from the designer ;)
--
 I'm not sure when we'll be able to update the KNB2 design, but in the
 meantime, I'll be happy to answer questions for anyone who wants to try
 their hand at it. As must be obvious by now, we've worked hard to
 integrate promising modifications in a timely fashion.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


 A very comprehensive and interesting reply.
 Many thanks Wayne.

 73
 Stewart G3RXQ

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[Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?

2005-01-03 Thread Tom Althoff
Is there anyone on this list who can confirm that the top cover screws of the 
KAT100-1 are directly inline with the bottom cover screws of the K2?

Has anyone attempted to use 4-40 threaded rod and nuts to anchor the KAT100-1 
beneath the K2?   I would like to try that once I get my KAT100-1.

Tom K2TA
K2 #1117
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[Elecraft] free for the postage...

2005-01-03 Thread Rod N0RC
Basic Severe Storm Spotters Guide, Larry Ledwick, Emergency File 
Publications, Copyright 1996.

Great reference for Skywarn active hams.

ARES District 10 Severe Weather Training Handbook  Reference Guide 
1999. Produced for D10 but may be useful to others.


I figure $2 for medial mail rate should cover the postage.

--
73, Rod N0RC 



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Re: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?

2005-01-03 Thread Tom Althoff
Please ignore...there is not a 1:1 relationship between the screws on top of
the KAT100-1 and the bottom of the K2.  Drilling is required.

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 3:26 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?


Is there anyone on this list who can confirm that the top cover screws of
the KAT100-1 are directly inline with the bottom cover screws of the K2?

Has anyone attempted to use 4-40 threaded rod and nuts to anchor the
KAT100-1 beneath the K2?   I would like to try that once I get my KAT100-1.

Tom K2TA
K2 #1117
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[Elecraft] Re: free for the postage...

2005-01-03 Thread Rod N0RC

Both items are spoken for.

Thanks for the response.

--
73, Rod N0RC


- Original Message - 
From: Rod N0RC [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 2:49 PM
Subject: [QRP-L] free for the postage...


Basic Severe Storm Spotters Guide, Larry Ledwick, Emergency File 
Publications, Copyright 1996.

Great reference for Skywarn active hams.

ARES District 10 Severe Weather Training Handbook  Reference Guide 
1999. Produced for D10 but may be useful to others.

:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] OT - Way off topic, but Dell is giving away machines

2005-01-03 Thread Dan Barker
Until 1/5/05, you can get a Dell SC420, 2.5GHz Celeron, 1G Ram, 80G
Harddrive, CD-Rom for $234.

I just ordered 4!

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

No affiliation, blah, blah, blah, I just lost 3 servers over the weekend and
I'm OUT of spares and very nervous.

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RE: [Elecraft] OT - Way off topic, but Dell is giving away machines

2005-01-03 Thread Dan Barker
It's a bear to find.

www.dell.com, click small business, Click Servers, Storage and Networking,
Scroll down a bit and click Customize it next to the $224 teaser (that's a
40G harddrive). Pay LOTS of attention. Some of the options have prices
like remove $99.

Don't know if this link will work for you, but you can drill in as above.

http://configure.us.dell.com/dellstore/config.aspx?c=uscs=04kc=6W300l=en;
oc=sc420sapps=bsd

They are kind of high for disks, but the memory is decent.

Dan

-Original Message-
From: NZ8J [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 5:55 PM
To: Dan Barker
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - Way off topic, but Dell is giving away
machines


Dan,
Do you have a link for that? I can't find it on the Dell site..
Thanks for the heads-up
Tim
NZ8J

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Re: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?

2005-01-03 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
It seems to me that the right way to do this is a set of side panels
for the combined set of K2 and KAT100.

Some day, maybe.

73, doug


   From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 17:31:32 -0500

   Please ignore...there is not a 1:1 relationship between the screws on top of
   the KAT100-1 and the bottom of the K2.  Drilling is required.

   - Original Message - 
   From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 3:26 PM
   Subject: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?


   Is there anyone on this list who can confirm that the top cover screws of
   the KAT100-1 are directly inline with the bottom cover screws of the K2?

   Has anyone attempted to use 4-40 threaded rod and nuts to anchor the
   KAT100-1 beneath the K2?   I would like to try that once I get my KAT100-1.

   Tom K2TA
   K2 #1117
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[Elecraft] A minor C22 question

2005-01-03 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
Last night I redid my C22 reference oscillator adjustment using WWV on 10mhz as 
the zero beat reference.  This is the third time I have adjusted C22 and each 
time I am able to adjust C22 to a precise offset balancing TP1 and TP2.  
However, when I put the cover back on the K2/100 I find that WWV zero beats a 
few tens of hz off.  (After last night's adjustment, the zero beat was 
1.03)  One should expect to be +- 10 hz as that is the finest resolution of 
the VCO, but it would be nice to get a little closer.  

The unit was thoroughly warmed before adjustment although there may be some 
temperature difference between having the cover on and having the cover off.

This is hardly a big deal, but I wonder whether others manage to get an exact 
setting or whether this is a process that you repeat until you finally nail the 
adjustment.

HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.  W1WF
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
HANSON  333 Market Street, 23rd Floor
BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173
MARCUS  Direct: (415) 995-5073
VLAHOS  Main: (415) 777-3200
RUDY, LLP   Fax: (415) 541-9366 


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RE: [Elecraft] A minor C22 question

2005-01-03 Thread Rich Lentz

Did you re-run CAL PLL, ** AND ** XFIL on ** ALL ** Modes (USB, LSB, CW,
CWR, RTTY,  RTTYR)
** AND ** when running CAL XFIL you MUST change the number (up or down at
least on digit and then back to the same number) so that the MCU knows that
it needs to re-store the frequency settings for the BFO. 

Otherwise you have changed nothing but the frequency of the reference
oscillator.  For a long explanation see W3FPR's discussion.  The short one
is that the MCU stores a digit representing the voltage necessary to make
the frequency.  This is number determined by the Reference oscillator
whose accuracy determines the repeatability and accuracy across all bands.
In other words the 4.0 MHz oscillator is only used for the frequency
measurement.  It only measures the frequency when you run the CAL FILL and
CAL XFIL.  After that it does nothing.  

Rich,
KE0X
 
---
Last night I redid my C22 reference oscillator adjustment using WWV on 10mhz
as the zero beat reference.  This is the third time I have adjusted C22 and
each time I am able to adjust C22 to a precise offset balancing TP1 and TP2.
However, when I put the cover back on the K2/100 I find that WWV zero beats
a few tens of hz off.  (After last night's adjustment, the zero beat was
1.03)  One should expect to be +- 10 hz as that is the finest resolution
of the VCO, but it would be nice to get a little closer.  

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RE: [Elecraft] A minor C22 question

2005-01-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.  W1WF wrote:
Last night I redid my C22 reference oscillator adjustment using WWV on 10mhz
as the zero beat reference.  This is the third time I have adjusted C22 and
each time I am able to adjust C22 to a precise offset balancing TP1 and TP2.
However, when I put the cover back on the K2/100 I find that WWV zero beats
a few tens of hz off.  (After last night's adjustment, the zero beat was
1.03)  One should expect to be +- 10 hz as that is the finest resolution
of the VCO, but it would be nice to get a little closer. 
--

You are probably fighting the resolution limits of the digital-to-analog
converters (DAC's) used to convert between the analog tuning voltages for
the BFO and PLL reference oscillator and the digital values stored in
memory. Since they convert the analog voltage into a binary number, and use
that binary number to recreate the voltage later as you tune in a signal and
choose the filter setting you want, they are never exact. 

Sometimes one is closer than 10 or 20 Hz, sometimes not. At that level it's
a matter of luck.

That's the source of often hearing a small step in the frequency of a CW
beat note when switching between filters too. 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?

2005-01-03 Thread Tom Althoff
It would be nice if there were side panels to do that plus a modified top
cover on the KAT100-1 with recessed cups for the 4 feet of the K2 to drop
down into so that when all was said and done the radio/tuner would become
one unit, solid side panels and flush with no gap between them along the
front mating edge.   And wouldn't it be cool if the IO buss could be passed
down directly into the KAT-100 instead of tying up the DB-9 connector at the
back of both units.

- Original Message - 
From: Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?


 It seems to me that the right way to do this is a set of side panels
 for the combined set of K2 and KAT100.

 Some day, maybe.

 73, doug


From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 17:31:32 -0500

Please ignore...there is not a 1:1 relationship between the screws on
top of
the KAT100-1 and the bottom of the K2.  Drilling is required.

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 3:26 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?


Is there anyone on this list who can confirm that the top cover screws
of
the KAT100-1 are directly inline with the bottom cover screws of the
K2?

Has anyone attempted to use 4-40 threaded rod and nuts to anchor the
KAT100-1 beneath the K2?   I would like to try that once I get my
KAT100-1.

Tom K2TA
K2 #1117
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Re: [Elecraft] Mounting the KAT100-1 under the K2?

2005-01-03 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
   From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 19:20:04 -0500

   It would be nice if there were side panels to do that plus a modified top
   cover on the KAT100-1 with recessed cups for the 4 feet of the K2 to drop
   down into so that when all was said and done the radio/tuner would become
   one unit, solid side panels and flush with no gap between them along the
   front mating edge.   And wouldn't it be cool if the IO buss could be passed
   down directly into the KAT-100 instead of tying up the DB-9 connector at the
   back of both units.

Note that there is an airvent on the bottom of the K2 for cooling the
low power PA transistors, so airflow to that probably needs to be
maintained.

Otherwise you could just remove the feet of the K2.  Maybe if you also
removed the top cover of the KAT-100?  Mine is loaned out, so I can't
actually look at them.

73, doug


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 Power requirements

2005-01-03 Thread Stuart Rohre
Steve, the Astron has the ratings to handle the K2 plus 100 watts.   It also
has voltage regulator that should limit the current, so added breaker is
optional.  It should be slightly larger than the current draw of the K2 plus
the amplifier, if used.

If you do not use the breaker, be sure to fuse the K2 near the supply,
although the K2 has a current limiting circuit of its own.  That is standard
safety practice in case the insulation rubs thru along the wires to the rig.
72,
Stuart
K5KVH


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[Elecraft] AGC Threshold question - K2

2005-01-03 Thread Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell

Hi,

I am just at the first alignment and test stage of my K2. Everything 
checked out just fine except the step where I am to adjust R1 on the 
control board for 3.80 v on pin 5 of U2. The highest I can get the 
voltage to go is 3.38v. Is this something to worry about? If so, any 
clues?


Thanks
Neal - k3nc

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 Power requirements

2005-01-03 Thread Hisashi T Fujinaka

I have an Astron 35 and the foldback circuitry is pretty nice. I had the
two power leads that go from the KPA100 to the K2 pinched between the
shield and the side of the case, making a nice dead short. My Astron
just folded back the voltage and no fuses were wasted.

I wouldn't suggest this as a test for anyone else. :)

On Mon, 3 Jan 2005, Stuart Rohre wrote:


Steve, the Astron has the ratings to handle the K2 plus 100 watts.   It also
has voltage regulator that should limit the current, so added breaker is
optional.  It should be slightly larger than the current draw of the K2 plus
the amplifier, if used.


--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PLL Oscillator Range Test failure (barely)

2005-01-03 Thread John, KI6WX
Scott;
You definitely want the PLL reference to tune at least 9.8 kHz so you don't
compromise the performance on 160 meters.  If L31 is 10uH, going to 12uH
will cure the problem without causing any bad side effects.  You can ask
Elecraft to send you the different value inductor.

The narrow and wide tuning ranges that sometimes occur on the PLL reference
are due to variations in the Q of the 12 MHz crystal.  This is not always
easy to control.  Elecraft has implemented a tighter spec with the crystal
vendor so this problem is less than it was in the past.
-John
 KI6WX


 On page 60 of the K2 manual the PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test
 asks for the Ref. High Freq. and Ref. Low Freq. measurements. I have

 HI = 12099.67
 LO = 12090.50
 DIFF 9.17

 which is less than the 9.8 to 15 kHz required by the manual.
 Everything else looks good. Any ideas? Any help would be
 appreciated. Thanks.



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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Threshold question - K2

2005-01-03 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm

Neil,

Yes you apparently have something wrong.

The voltage measurement comes from a purely resistive network fed by 8 
volts, and there is not much to troubleshooting it - that is if you can 
manage to probe the pins of R-Pak RP6.


With the RF gain in the full clockwise setting, you should read close to 0 
volts on pin 6 of RP6 - and you should find 8 volts from the power source on 
pin 3 (of RP6).  The voltage at pins 4 and 5 should be at the same voltage 
as pin 5 of U6, and the voltage should be adjustable by changing R1.  The 
voltage on pin 7 of RP1 will depend on the setting of R1.  Check out the 
schematic of the Control Board - look in the AGC section in the lower left 
corner to see how these resistors are connected.


If you find a voltage that is unusual, first check the soldering, and next 
be certain RP6 is the 5.1k package (the numbers 512 should appear in the 
labeling).


If the voltage on pin 3 of RP6 is much lower than 8 volts, the 8 volt 
regulator (U4) may be the problem.  However, the last person I helped who 
had a reading similar to yours did not have the probe on pin 5 of U6.  Pin 5 
is the topmost pin and toward the side panel.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 
I am just at the first alignment and test stage of my K2. Everything 
checked out just fine except the step where I am to adjust R1 on the 
control board for 3.80 v on pin 5 of U2. The highest I can get the voltage 
to go is 3.38v. Is this something to worry about? If so, any clues?





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[Elecraft] NB design thoughts.

2005-01-03 Thread Marinos Markomanolakis, M.D.
Just wanted to share my experience with the NB in one of my boat anchors, 
the yaesu FT-401B (tube rig) from the 70's.
This NB works almost as good as the best ones I have tried, it does not 
introduce any distortion in even the strongest signals and has only an 
on-off switch. (no level adjustment from the rig's front panel even though 
it does have an internal one via a pot seen at the schematic).
This is a NB working at the 3.180Mhz IF of the rig, and the only ill effect 
I have noticed when turning it on is a reduction of the IF gain which has 
never made any weak signal unreadable, and of course could be potentially 
compensated by one subsequent amplification stage anyway. It does though 
work VERY well for any type of pulse noise.


Just with 2 prehistoric FETs and 2 transistors, it has to be the most 
basic NB design in any rig...
Just some food for thought about future improvements in the KNB2 which may 
not necessarily have to be too complicated.


For anyone interested, I have scanned a picture of the NB schematic at the 
following link:

http://photothru.com/share_photoalbum.asp?aid=xA2EF4Bapwd=marko45966[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]

If you have any trouble accessing it, I can email individual copie to anyone 
interested.


73,
Marinos, ki4gin


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Re: [Elecraft] Hum Coupling

2005-01-03 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.
I remembered this thread and when I was looking at the slashdot article 
on RF shielding paint the other day, remembered that I had problems with 
my K2 and a flourescent Ott light, presumably from its transformer.  I 
ordered some Metglas tape from these folks, and tried a few layers of 
it around the transformer, and near the K2, but there was no effect.  I 
opened up the bottom of the K2 and noticed the greatest disturbance from 
the lamp transformer was around L31.  That area also seemed to be the 
most sensitive to detuning when I put on and took off the cover (and my 
hand).  So I put a few layers of the tape (insulated inside a poly) on 
top of L31 and there seemed to be a slight effect, but not enough to 
make me want to try to put it there.  I may open the top and try L30.


In better news, though, I found that moving the light from the left of 
the K2 to the right eliminated the modulation, at least on RX.


Leigh.

A Walker wrote:


Hi Michael,

Thanks for your comments. I think you are on to something.

The only hope for lower magnetic field susceptibility for the K2 would 
be if either the VFO circuit were changed so as not to use an inductor 
for adjusting the quiescent resonance point of the VFO, or good 
magnetic shielding were used. One possibility would be to use a gapped 
pot core with slug tuning for L30, but it might be difficult to get 
sufficient adjustment range. Or, perhaps one could use some kind of 
shield for L30 alone. The standard sort of thing for low-level or 
precise RF circuits is to enclose them all in steel shielding, with 
steel partitions between circuit sections or stages (it's called egg 
crating). It's something Elecraft could keep in mind for a K3.


If I had a K2 in front of me, I think I would try to put some kind of 
shielding around L30. Here is the web site of one vendor of shielding 
materials:


http://www.lessemf.com/mag-shld.html

By the way, I would guess that the Q of that Toko T1005 coil is 
determined by not only DC resistive loss in the wire, but also skin 
effect loss and core loss (and circulating currents from distributed 
capacitance, etc., etc.). I suppose we will never know for sure, as RF 
work at some point gets very empirical -- we just have to try it out, 
and if it works we're on to solving the next problem.


Best of luck,
73, Allen Walker


From: Masleid, Michael A. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: A Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Hum Coupling
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 13:01:47 -0600

Hello Allen,

My guess is that magnetic fields from power transformers are either 
1) being
picked up by L30, or 2) that the magnetic fields are going through 
the cores

of L30 and/or T5, and modulating the effective permeabilities of these
cores. This will cause a modulation of inductance, and thus a 
modulation of

the VFO frequency.

The magnetic field is picked up by L30.

To work best, the magnetic shield should completely surround the 
susceptible parts.


Putting the shield on only one side seems to make things worse.

Here's a possibility for experimenting with K2 susceptibility: Try 
using one
of those bulk tape erasers near it. They put out huge 60Hz fields. 
[Just

don't get it near your credit/bank cards!]

Of course, keep it away from the latching relays.

I used a tape head demagnetizer.  Placing the probe near the base of 
L30 causes
a vast huge amount of FM.  Don't try this unless you cut the current 
way down.


Looking on the scope, FM modulation is at 60 Hz, not 120 Hz, so we're 
not modulating
the permeability, we seem to be inducing a 60 Hz voltage onto L30/T5 
which is

modulating the varacters.

What I don't understand is this:  I figure L30 has perhaps 14 turns, 
and 2.3 ohms
winding resistance.  I figure that the effective aperture is 1 cm 
squared.  I figure
that the winding resistance of T5 is 0.05 ohms, so a 1 gauss vertical 
60 Hz field will
induce 37 micro volts on T5.  That should cause 0.3 Hz FM modulation 
on 80 meters.
No one should notice that?  BTW, I calculated 2.3 ohms from the Q, 
sensitivity at

T5 goes way up if L30 has less resistance.

I know that the cup and core used in L30 will focus any external 
field through the

winding, but I don't know how to calculate how much.

It would be nice if someone could put an L30 (TOKO T1005Z 4.7 uH) 
into a Helholtz

coil and get the numbers on it (uV/gauss at 60Hz, winding resistance).

73, Michael



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RE: [Elecraft] OT - Way off topic, but Dell is giving away machines

2005-01-03 Thread ron
Wow! Now, there is no excuse for not being able to do digital modes!!


 Ron wb1hga

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Fw: [Elecraft] 10m Birdie

2005-01-03 Thread Russ Tobolic
I never operate 10M but just checked my K2 with the KPA100 and found the
same thing with a strong birdie at around 28262.  The weird thing is that
when I turned off the KPA100 (reducing power below 10W) the birdie at 28262
shifted up about 1kc and the birdie at 28019 shifted down about 500c.

Russ, N3CO
K2 #4016
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] 10m Birdie


 In order to get a match at 28019 kHz as has been reported,=
  the KPA100
 oscillator has to be shifted to 18434.1 

 Hi also have the 28029 birdie.  I've also got the much stronger=
  28262
 birdie.

 I've wanted to eliminate this for some time since there a lot of=
  cw activity
 between 28025 and 28025.  My KPA100 is installed on the K2.  The=
  birdie
 produces about 1 s unit bar with the pre-amp on.  Based on Sverre=
  comments,
 how do I eliminate the birdie?  Is it merely the freq of the 18=
  MHz
 oscillator.

 Frank, W4FMS



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[Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner

2005-01-03 Thread Jim Harris
I've only been licensed about three years but have
been building electronic kits and related hardware
since 1954.  My intent is to build a K2/100 with most
of the bells and whistles but have been unable to find
specific answers to three questions.

1.  How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier (AL-811)? 
I have a Heil footswitch with a second cable for
amplifier keying.  But, would prefer to use keying
from the rig itself.

2.  How is ALC sent from my RF amplifier back to the
K2/100?  I've reviewed the K2/100 manuals and cannot
find how it is done.  Maybe it really isn't needed.

3.  How do I adapt my Heil Headset Pro and Goldline
microphones.  They currently are used with an
IC-746pro by using a Heil adapter cable.  They now go
thru a homebrew switchbox with the adapter cable
between the rig and switchbox.

I cannot see any other major problems.  I've wound
baluns and view winding toroids a bit tedious but
there is nothing like rolling your own.  My
background includes professional soldering training
and experience.  I have a scope, DVM and other minor
pieces of test equipment. Am I over looking any major
areas that need to be covered before starting?

Thank you for your response.

Jim, AB0UK



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[Elecraft] Power supply for K1 / K2

2005-01-03 Thread Rich Lentz
I got a new Scanner for Christmas and no longer use the UMAX scanner.  Noted
that it had a small 12VDC switching power supply.  Checked out the voltage,
polarity, current rating, etc and decided it would work as a neat SMALL
portable P/S for the K1/K2 when on trips.  In researching the P/S found this
link and they are only $19.95 US.  They work on 90 to 265 VAC so they should
be good for overseas and probably available over there also.  NOT good for
charging the internal battery if you have one but would partially restore
and keep from discharging.  K2 is much lighter without it - unless you must
go portable. Here is a link.

http://www.umax.com/scanners/index.jsp?cate=Scanners%3A+Accessoriesskunum=6
8300061-

(The above is a long link so you may need to paste it back together.)

Here is a link for the Specifications.
http://www.powerstream.com/z/SA0612.pdf

I have no interest in UMAX and am in no way affiliated with them.  Just
thought this was a good deal.

Rich,
KE0X

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Fw: [Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner

2005-01-03 Thread Gregg R. Lengling


From: Gregg R. Lengling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Jim Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner



See my answers interleaved after the questions.

Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Un-Retired
K2/100 SN 3075
http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 9:05 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner



I've only been licensed about three years but have
been building electronic kits and related hardware
since 1954.  My intent is to build a K2/100 with most
of the bells and whistles but have been unable to find
specific answers to three questions.

1.  How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier (AL-811)?
I have a Heil footswitch with a second cable for
amplifier keying.  But, would prefer to use keying
from the rig itself.

Just use the keying output from the KPA100, I'm sure you remember putting 
in the FET and RCA Jack for it.



2.  How is ALC sent from my RF amplifier back to the
K2/100?  I've reviewed the K2/100 manuals and cannot
find how it is done.  Maybe it really isn't needed.


There is no ALC and most operators don't have a problem with it.


3.  How do I adapt my Heil Headset Pro and Goldline
microphones.  They currently are used with an
IC-746pro by using a Heil adapter cable.  They now go
thru a homebrew switchbox with the adapter cable
between the rig and switchbox.
Why not make a cable to go from your switchbox to the K2 for the basic K2 
jack wiring (all the jumper posts directly across), if you need bias 
voltage for the mics you probably already created it in your switch box, 
if you didn't you can create it from the K2 as per the instructions 
included with any of the Heil mics from Elecraft.


I cannot see any other major problems.  I've wound
baluns and view winding toroids a bit tedious but
there is nothing like rolling your own.  My
background includes professional soldering training
and experience.  I have a scope, DVM and other minor
pieces of test equipment. Am I over looking any major
areas that need to be covered before starting?

You're pretty much ready to go, I also used a Service Monitor to do 
receiver and transmitter alignment and freq. setting but it's really not 
required.

Thank you for your response.

Jim, AB0UK



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Fw: [Elecraft] 10m Birdie

2005-01-03 Thread Russ Tobolic
I never operate 10M but just checked my K2 with the KPA100 and found the
same thing with a strong birdie at around 28262.  The weird thing is that
when I turned off the KPA100 (reducing power below 10W) the birdie at 28262
shifted up about 1kc and the birdie at 28019 shifted down about 500c.

Russ, N3CO
K2 #4016

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] 10m Birdie


 In order to get a match at 28019 kHz as has been reported,=
  the KPA100
 oscillator has to be shifted to 18434.1 
 
 Hi also have the 28029 birdie.  I've also got the much stronger=
  28262
 birdie.
 
 I've wanted to eliminate this for some time since there a lot of=
  cw activity
 between 28025 and 28025.  My KPA100 is installed on the K2.  The=
  birdie
 produces about 1 s unit bar with the pre-amp on.  Based on Sverre=
  comments,
 how do I eliminate the birdie?  Is it merely the freq of the 18=
  MHz
 oscillator.
 
 Frank, W4FMS
 
 
 
 ___
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 Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
 Version: 7.0.298 / Virus Database: 265.6.7 - Release Date: 12/30/04
 
 


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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner

2005-01-03 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Jim Harris wrote:

1.  How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier (AL-811)? 
I have a Heil footswitch with a second cable for

amplifier keying.  But, would prefer to use keying
from the rig itself.


It has a built-in transistor switch that will switch +200V at 1A.  It goes low 
at least 15ms before the RF starts flowing and has an adjustable hold time.



2.  How is ALC sent from my RF amplifier back to the
K2/100?  I've reviewed the K2/100 manuals and cannot
find how it is done.  Maybe it really isn't needed.


Amplifier ALC isn't supported.  My feeling is that it isn't needed, especially 
in view of the K2's closed-loop power control system.



3.  How do I adapt my Heil Headset Pro and Goldline
microphones.  They currently are used with an
IC-746pro by using a Heil adapter cable.  They now go
thru a homebrew switchbox with the adapter cable
between the rig and switchbox.


Sorry, I'm a CW operator!  But lots of guys are using them.


I cannot see any other major problems.  I've wound
baluns and view winding toroids a bit tedious but
there is nothing like rolling your own.  My
background includes professional soldering training
and experience.  I have a scope, DVM and other minor
pieces of test equipment. Am I over looking any major
areas that need to be covered before starting?


Nope, just follow the instructions carefully and don't work when you haven't 
slept for the past couple of days and you will do fine.  And if you have a 
problem, there's plenty of experienced help available.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] wireless headfones?

2005-01-03 Thread Indy
Has anyone tried wireless headfones such as these with their K2?

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLGproduct%5Fid=33-1219

I am curious how they handle being around a transmitting ham radio.  The idea 
of being able to walk into the kitchen to refill a cup of coffee without losing 
half the QSO is appealing...

tnx,

Fred
kt5x
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Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Possible Builder/Owner

2005-01-03 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Hi Jim,

 1.  How does the K2/100 key an RF amplifier (AL-811)?
 I have a Heil footswitch with a second cable for
 amplifier keying.  But, would prefer to use keying
 from the rig itself.

The KPA100 has a built-in solid state keying circuit for positively keyed
amplifiers (like your AL-811).  There is an RCA jack on the back of the
KPA100 and you simply connect an RCA male cable from it to the Relay jack on
the AL-811.  There is no need for a second cable.

 2.  How is ALC sent from my RF amplifier back to the
 K2/100?  I've reviewed the K2/100 manuals and cannot
 find how it is done.  Maybe it really isn't needed.

The K2/100 does not have any provision for ALC input from an external
source.  ALC from the AL-811 amplifier back to the K2 is not necessary.
Since ALC from an external amplifier is generated after the fact it does
little to control the generation of distortion products that result from the
amplifier being overdrive.  In most amateur amplifiers, in order for an ALC
voltage to be generated , the amp must be overdriven in the first place!
Obviously this is not good!  Of couse, the power control on the K2/100 can
always be set to a level such that various amplifiers are not overdriven.

 3.  How do I adapt my Heil Headset Pro and Goldline
 microphones.  They currently are used with an
 IC-746pro by using a Heil adapter cable.  They now go
 thru a homebrew switchbox with the adapter cable
 between the rig and switchbox.

The microphone input circuit in the K2 has provisions on a jumper block to
route functions to various pins according to which microphone you wish to
use.  These options are explained and individual choices are made during
construction of the K2.  I am not familier with the requirements of the Heil
Headset Pro and the Goldline microphones but at the worst, you might have to
construct a simple one transistor pre-amplifier to use them with the K2.
I'm sure you will get responses from others who have use these microphones
with their K2's.

Have fun - it's quite the impressive rig!! 73 es gud dxing --don n4hh
K2/100/KAT100 #2028



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Re: [Elecraft] Hum Coupling

2005-01-03 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
Thanks!  The foil is supposed to have be very good for magnetic 
shielding and so I thought I would try it, as it is small and light 
enough that it could be put inaide the rig if it works.  I will report 
when I try it on L30.

Leigh.
On Mon, 3 Jan 2005 6:53 pm, Stuart Rohre wrote:
Leigh, most of your coupling may be magnetic, if shielding did not 
reduce

the RFI.

You might want to experiment with steel shim stock or even tinplate 
from

cans.

The easiest fix is distance:   Moving the rig away from magnetic and
electric field sources of transformers as you have found.
GL,
Stuart
K5KVH


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RE: [Elecraft] OT - Way off topic, but Dell is giving away machines

2005-01-03 Thread Paul Ermisch
At the top of the configuration list:

Note: For server use only; CANNOT BE USED AS A DESKTOP.
Dell does not support the use of a graphics card on the SC420.

Still, a great price.  The other desktops they're selling are priced
well.

Paul NN0C

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ron
 Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 7:37 PM
 To: 'Dan Barker'; 'Elecraft'
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT - Way off topic, but Dell is giving away
 machines
 
 Wow! Now, there is no excuse for not being able to do digital modes!!
 
 
  Ron wb1hga
 
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[Elecraft] [Fwd: thanks]

2005-01-03 Thread Robert Conley



 Original Message 
Subject:thanks
Date:   Thu, 30 Dec 2004 18:14:53 -0600
From:   Robert Conley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



GE Mychael,
I just wanted to say thanks for the excellent job that you did on my 
toroids. It probably cut my built time by at least 40%. I have some 
residual stroke damage ( fine motor control ) in my left hand and 
winding toroids is a challenge to say the least, but I do so enjoy 
building my own.  K1 #1949 is finished but now I need to find the 
problem of No Power Out I built an RF probe inside an in-line fuse 
holder and I have an O'scope so the difficulty will be discovered and 
corrected with help from others on the reflector. Thanks again!

72/71 de rc kc5wa


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Re: [Elecraft] wireless headfones?

2005-01-03 Thread DYARNES
Fred and All,
 
I do it all the time!  I use an RCA wireless headphone system that  cost 
about $50 on sale.  Works great.  I can go through most of the  house and still 
hear fine. It can get spotty in places.   Be  careful though.  Not all of these 
systems work that well.  Some time  back I had a system that only worked 
across the room, but not from other  rooms.  The system I have now is RCA model 
WHP150.  I have a second  RCA system (WHP140) which I use in the bedroom for 
watching TV without  disturbing my wife if she wants to sleep.  By connecting 
to 
one of the  audio output jacks on the back of the TV set, I can mute the TV 
sound without  affecting the output to the headphone system.  Both systems seem 
to work  equally well.  In fact, by slightly changing the frequency setting on 
the  headphone I can hear the other system.  These are 900 mhz systems.   
Guess what--you can also use a 2 meter HT with wideband receive to monitor if  
you 
like.
 
Dave W7AQK
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Re: [Elecraft] Hum Coupling

2005-01-03 Thread Stuart Rohre
Leigh, most of your coupling may be magnetic, if shielding did not reduce
the RFI.

You might want to experiment with steel shim stock or even tinplate from
cans.

The easiest fix is distance:   Moving the rig away from magnetic and
electric field sources of transformers as you have found.
GL,
Stuart
K5KVH