[Elecraft] KPA100 check result questions

2005-02-01 Thread GS
Good morning,

I'm still in the process of building my kpa100. After
my learning process concerning soldering :-) I
stumbled upon some voltages.

I'm on page 43 in the manual now and got some numbers
a bit off the given values (PS is 14V).

D13 154V
U4 -27.4V
TP1 0V
J3+ 0.1V

Are these numbers ok? Especially the last two?

Another thing. The fan at this stage is a bit out of
control. Calibrating tPA helps, but the K2 seems to
not remember this setting. Also strange is that while
setting tPA a relay can be heard switching. But maybe
this is normal at this point in the process?

Kind regards and keep on building...

Gerhard
DH3FAW







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[Elecraft] K2/100 Underway

2005-02-01 Thread Barry Cooper - Relcom
Hi all. 

K2/100 #4703 is well underway as a replacement for an earlier build K2 #29xx 
which I sold and have regretted ever since - in spite of replacing it with a MP 
Mk5! This time it will be the Mk5 that gets sold as soon as the K2 is up and 
running!

Thanks for all the interesting reading on the reflector.

Barry
G4RKO
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 check result questions

2005-02-01 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Gerhard,

The voltage at D13 and U4 are a bit higher than they used to be - they
increased when R4 was changed from 100k to 39k, all is well with those two.
Your voltage at TP1 is good, but you may want to re-check J3+ (red) - while
0.1 volts may just be some artifact of your meter, the voltage should really
be zero.

I don't have an immediate answer on your fan situation, but it likely won't
hurt anything, so finish everything and see what happens with it.  Yes, CAL
tPA should be remembered.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I'm still in the process of building my kpa100. After
 my learning process concerning soldering :-) I
 stumbled upon some voltages.

 I'm on page 43 in the manual now and got some numbers
 a bit off the given values (PS is 14V).

 D13 154V
 U4 -27.4V
 TP1 0V
 J3+ 0.1V

 Are these numbers ok? Especially the last two?

 Another thing. The fan at this stage is a bit out of
 control. Calibrating tPA helps, but the K2 seems to
 not remember this setting. Also strange is that while
 setting tPA a relay can be heard switching. But maybe
 this is normal at this point in the process?

 Kind regards and keep on building...

 Gerhard
 DH3FAW







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[Elecraft] K2 BAT

2005-02-01 Thread David
I was wondering how does everyone keep there elecraft battery in the k2
charged up and ready to go?

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RE : [Elecraft] K2 BAT

2005-02-01 Thread Jean-François Ménard
Yes, just like a alarm system... Ready to go, any time

73


-Message d'origine-
De : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] De la part de David
Envoyé : 1 février 2005 09:12
À : Mailingliste Elecraft
Objet : [Elecraft] K2 BAT


I was wondering how does everyone keep there elecraft battery in the k2
charged up and ready to go?

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 BAT

2005-02-01 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
If one keeps the K2 connected to a 14.1 to 14.3 volt power supply that is
continuously running, the battery should stay charged.

If you prefer a better battery charging system, look into creating a direct
battery connection and using a 'smartcharger' - for my implementation, see
my webpage www.qsl.net/w3fpr

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 I was wondering how does everyone keep there elecraft battery in the k2
 charged up and ready to go?




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BAT

2005-02-01 Thread David
I could not remember if the battery was charged through the 12 volt supply

- Original Message - 
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: David [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mailingliste Elecraft
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BAT


 If one keeps the K2 connected to a 14.1 to 14.3 volt power supply that is
 continuously running, the battery should stay charged.

 If you prefer a better battery charging system, look into creating a
direct
 battery connection and using a 'smartcharger' - for my implementation, see
 my webpage www.qsl.net/w3fpr

 73,
 Don W3FPR

  -Original Message-
 
 
  I was wondering how does everyone keep there elecraft battery in the k2
  charged up and ready to go?
 
 




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[Elecraft] RF Board Relays ..Help..!

2005-02-01 Thread Andy GM0NWI

Guy's...

Getting on with the K2 RF Board here .going together much better
than I antisipated...although I have workmen in the house here at the 
moment...fitting a new bathroom suite and layout... SO..! at times its

hard to concentrate with all the noise...

Just wanted to enquire...

I am at the stage of the RF Board where one installs the relays onto the 
RF Board,I have located the 2 PACKETS of relays I got with my K2... 
What I would like to clarify is


On one of the tubes of relays there is a white label with the words  KAT2 
Relaysand other the other tube there is NO label...


As far as I can see...from the markings the relays are exactly the same in 
nature all ways...(perhaps not..!)... Does it matter which ones I use for 
the part in the RF Board that I am currently putting together..??


As for those wishing to follow my progress, slow as it has been over the 
last year, with one thing and another... I will post some photographs on my 
website as soon as the board is done...along with my thoughts on the 
processAll comments would be greatly welcome...


Thanks again for the support throught this endeavour that I have 
undertaken Without you guy's the process would be MUCH more dawnting...


Andy 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  ...I Just See It.!..  John A. Ross 
(RSD Communications circa 2004)

A.R.S.
GM0NWI QRP   ..It is vain to do with 
more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi...
K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done with 
less.. In The Northern Hemisphere...


GQRP No.9576
QRP-L No.2165
ARCI No.10561
Alaska QRP Club No.190
Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061
ICQ No.31899603

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Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 - LED REMAINS ON

2005-02-01 Thread Lyle Johnson

Hello Chris!

I have just built the KDSP2 and everything seems to work properly, 
including the clock and changing the filter frfequencies.


However, the red LED remains on...


This is certainly peculiar.  If the DSP is working, the first thing it 
does is turns off the LED. This feature is controlled directly by the 
DSPx module, not the KDSP2 kit MCU.


Since the DSP appears to be working, I'd be suspicious of a short at the 
collector of Q4 or R13 on the KDSP2 kit portion.


You might try removing the DSPx but leaving the KDSP2 installed, power 
on the K2, and then *carefully*, using a spare resistor of 1K to 10K 
ohms, pull the end of R13 nearer J1 to ground.  This should cause the 
LED to extinguish.  If it does, the problem may be in the DSPx.  If not, 
the problem is in the KDSP2 circuitry associated with R13/Q4.


Another test is to use a voltmeter and probe P1 pin 4 on the DSPx.  The 
voltage should initially be around 3 to 3.5 volts, then drop to under 
0.5 volts.  When the voltage is at the lower level, the LED should be 
extinguished.


73,

Lyle KK7P

(who would have reponded sooner, but was in Germany last week)

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Re: [Elecraft] Trivia from G0XAR

2005-02-01 Thread n2fq

Stephen wrote:

Hello and have fun.

I used an old pencil soldering iron, clamped it vertically, removed the 
tip and filled the cavity with solder.
I then dip the end of wire into the cavity. Works very well. That's how 
2330 got done.


take care.


Hi gentlefolks,

	Home construction has re-commenced at G0XAR after a lengthy gap due to heavy 
work commitments and having to re-establish a shack, and aerials (thanks to 
M0PUB and G0BBL for a very pleasent summer weekend getting them rigged...).


	I found some transparent small (1 meal sized) freezer boxes in Lakeland 
Plastics on St Stephens Street in Norwich (they have branches in other towns 
however I am not sure about the colonies ;-) ), they were about £4 for 50. 
These are the same form factor as used by some Chinese takaways and are 
really handy for component storage - being transparent you can see whats in 
them - and they stack. So I have said fairwell to all those altoid tins. 
tobacco tins and biscuit tins...stuff is easier to find and things are much 
tidier as a result. Having only a little time to fool around in the shack 
means that every second counts...I would rather spend it making things rather 
that looking for things...


	I am currently constructing Yet Another Small Aerial a 5 foot whip tuned by 
switchable toroids. In the course of building a VSWR indicator for it I have 
found the Copper Island Construction Kit I bought at Rochdale some years to 
be very useful...not sure if these are available any more , The concept is to  
use a piece of single sided PCB as a ground plane and to superglue small 
discs of PCB material to it - these islands are then used to solder the 
components toonce one gets used to the technique it is a remarkably quick 
way of working. 

	Once this is complete I'll probably start work on my K2 - Number 3354, which 
will be fitted with the Top band, ATU and SSB options - I understand that 
there are people who like to keep track of where all the K2s are - well 3354 
is here in Norfolk, England.


	Just out of interest does anyone know where I can obtain or how I can make  
solder pot. Like most of us in our 50s my eyesight is not what is was. So 
tinning component leads, for example Toroids, can be a challenge..it seems to 
me that using a pot might make things easier. 

	Lastly I have a couple of Howes kits - a frequency marker and a direct 
conversion RX covering 10, 15 and i think 18 Mhzthe marker works, the RX 
needs completing..happy to pass them on to a good home. And does anyone have 
a spare Norcal 38 Special kit they wish to part with.mine seems to have 
been lost in the move from Wiltshire to Norfolkand I would dearly like 
another one



 




--

73
Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM 
San Jose, CA

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq

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[Elecraft] Test ...Please Ignore

2005-02-01 Thread Andy GM0NWI


Andy 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  ...I Just See It.!..  John A. Ross 
(RSD Communications circa 2004)

A.R.S.
GM0NWI QRP   ..It is vain to do with 
more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi...
K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done with 
less.. In The Northern Hemisphere...


GQRP No.9576
QRP-L No.2165
ARCI No.10561
Alaska QRP Club No.190
Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061
ICQ No.31899603

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[Elecraft] Re: K2 BAT

2005-02-01 Thread Ingo Meyer DK3RED

Hello Dave,


I was wondering how does everyone keep there elecraft battery in the k2
charged up and ready to go?


yes, I do it with an accumulator charger (output 13.8 volts). But I have 
modified my K2 #01118 a little bit. Please see at

www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de/en/s6.htm#trx6
and read the additional suggestion by Bart PA3GYU in my guestbook
www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de/en/s13.htm
dated 25th August 2004.

There are no problems with the battery since my K2 is on air.
--
72/73 de Ingo, DK3RED   Don't forget: the fun is the power!

[EMAIL PROTECTED]   www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de
 DL-QRP-AG   #824   www.dl-qrp-ag.de
  QRP ARCI #11295   www.qrparci.org

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[Elecraft] Re: It Works, but Not Inst Message

2005-02-01 Thread Ingo Meyer DK3RED

Hello Christian,

The issue, though, is that when I tap the menu button or the display 
button, not inst will flash for a second before the menu is displayed. 
All tests checked out after power up, except the keyer, since I don't 
have a paddle. Let me add that at this point, I am missing one 
pushbutton switch, S16, which I am waiting on a replacement for.


An not installed pushbutton is as good as an not switched pushbutton. No 
problems with it.


First of all check the right orientation of the resistor pack RP1. I had
installed RP1 in the wrong direction and the results was very strange and 
currios.


Then check the orientation of RP1 again. No, its no joke. Please do it.

Then check pins 3, 4 and 5 of the resistor pack RP1 on bottom of the PCB and
(!) on the top of the PCB. I think there is a solder bridge from pin 4 to 3
and 5. Pin 3 is the DISPLAY and pin 5 is the MENU and in the middle pin
4 is the ANT 1/2 which is not installed in your K2 at the time. U2 is an
multiplex IC, so sometimes the bridge suggested the MCU U6 a switched on
display button or sometimes a switched on menue button (to be governed by
the U2 multiplexer status) or all seems to be OK.
--
72/73 de Ingo, DK3RED   Don't forget: the fun is the power!

[EMAIL PROTECTED]   www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de
   L-QRP-AG   #824   www.dl-qrp-ag.de
   QRP ARCI #11295   www.qrparci.org


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[Elecraft] KSB2 Capacitors

2005-02-01 Thread John Heaviside
Hi,

I have a KSB2 kit supplied about 11 months ago.  The instructions are Revision 
D.  I see there is a Revision E on the website.  The only difference appears to 
be the lettered capacitors CA, CB etc in the xtal filter which have changed in 
value.
Should I obtain caps of the revised value to fit or is the change associated 
with a change in the xtals spec?

Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions.

John G3NYX.
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[Elecraft] KPA100 voltage measurements AGAIN

2005-02-01 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi there,

since my last thread has gone wild ;-) ... here comes a new one.

I just checked the PCB again for any visual problems
but didn't find any. And then I did the measurements again.

I now have -0.1 to -0.15V on J3+ (yes, MINUS). Still zero V at TP1.

Any idea how this voltage could get there? I don't dare to neglect this
reading and proceed with the building...

Using a 4.7k resistance I shorted J3+ to ground and almost immediately the
voltage rises to 0V. Taking it away results in a slow drop to abt -0.1V. It
looks like discharging/charging a capacitor.

Kind regards

 Old message follows...

=20
Good morning,

I'm still in the process of building my kpa100. After
my learning process concerning soldering :-) I
stumbled upon some voltages.

I'm on page 43 in the manual now and got some numbers
a bit off the given values (PS is 14V).

D13 154V
U4 -27.4V
TP1 0V
J3+ 0.1V

Are these numbers ok? Especially the last two?

Another thing. The fan at this stage is a bit out of
control. Calibrating tPA helps, but the K2 seems to
not remember this setting. Also strange is that while
setting tPA a relay can be heard switching. But maybe
this is normal at this point in the process?

Kind regards and keep on building...

Gerhard
DH3FAW



Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] Help with K2 Q7 collector resistance test

2005-02-01 Thread Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell

Hi all,

I have been through the archives so I know this has been asked and 
answered a few times but I still am not making much progress on this.


The problem is that my resistance test for Q7 collecter is not correct. 
With the common probe on ground and the positive probe of my DVM 
measuring resistance, its abt 280 ohms. If I reverse the leads, its 
around 408 ohms. All other measurements seem okay.


I have the heat sinks unscrewed and point in the air, not touching 
anything. I have remove T4 (as it looked like it could be a source of 
problems) and the measurements are not changing. I have magnifying 
glass inspected things, blown the top and bottom of rf board with 
compressed air, etc with no real movement.


Prior to the alignment in part two, the resistance reading on the 12v 
line was 788. I did not realize that the polarity of the DVMs could 
change the reading so I have no idea if I had the common probe grounded 
or vice versa. The alignment and test of the part 2 instructions went 
as expected.



Any ideas to unblock me?

Thanks es 73
Neal

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[Elecraft] 2 k2

2005-02-01 Thread Bob Evans
David,
 
I've been an SO2R operator for several years with a pair of IC-765s and
completely agree with other's SO2R sentiments.  I sold those 765s with the
idea of replacing them with the much better receiver specs in 2 K2/100s.  I
just built my first K2 (#4687) and gave it a good work out in the 160M
contest this past weekend (475 Qs and 62 Mults).  I WILL be getting another
one in the next few months to complete my SO2R station.  Once you get used
to hearing one band in your left ear and another band in your right ear, the
SO2R concept is that you can effectively increase your score by calling CQ
on one band while hunting and pouncing on a second band.  You can be your
own multiplier or added QSO hunter.
 
I have another idea that may be possible with 2 K2s; diversity reception and
panoramic reception.  Admittedly, both of these concepts caught my interest
in the TenTec Orion, but you can buy 2 K2s and still have enough change left
over for a weekend vacation.  I really am fascinated by these Orion features
and I think it might be possible to achieve with 2 K2s, however, I am not
technically competent enough to go much farther than concept with this idea.
My understanding is that the PLLs would need to be exactly synced or both
rigs would need to run off a single PLL before either of these could be
correctly implemented.  Maybe someone technically oriented has a thought on
this.
 
Bob K5WA
 
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[Elecraft] KAF2 K2 Audio Filter and RTC for sale

2005-02-01 Thread Philip Theis
Hi, I have an un-built KAF2 for sale.  Please make offer via email,
Thanks,
Phil

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[Elecraft] Kixie rode in the passenger seat

2005-02-01 Thread Lloyd Lachow
...as we drove to pick up two of my children.  I was
early, and had about 40 spare minutes...by design! 
Heh, heh...

Up went the 40M Hamstick, I plugged everything in, got
a fine match and was putting out four to five watts. 

Up at 7.040, there was a lot of SSB, So I tuned down,
found a pile, it was for TF4M, so I joined in the
chase, and worked him after four or five
tries...Iceland!  New one for me!  This guy has some
massive rhombics on a fjord in western Iceland...check
out his QRZ.com listing.

Then some more tuning, listening - found an EA6
calling CQ, good sigs, so I called a bunch, never
heard him, called some more, and heard K3ESE DE
7X4AN... whoa! Algeria! New for me! We chatted for a
couple of minutes, and then it was time for Kixie to
head back into her little padded bag...


   ...'til the next time I can arrange a few spare
minutes...

  LL
 



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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Capacitors

2005-02-01 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
John,

Those capacitor value changes will change the filter bandwidth from the
older 2.1 kHz bandwidth to the newer 2.3 kHz width - nothing but the
capacitors need be changed.  That is the only change (and it is equivalent
to the KI6WX filter bandwidth mod).  Yes, I do recommend it - unless you
want the slight increase in audio punch that the narrower bandwidth
provides, that may be important to you if most of your SSB operation is at
QRP levels.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I have a KSB2 kit supplied about 11 months ago.  The instructions
 are Revision D.  I see there is a Revision E on the website.  The
 only difference appears to be the lettered capacitors CA, CB etc
 in the xtal filter which have changed in value.
 Should I obtain caps of the revised value to fit or is the change
 associated with a change in the xtals spec?




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RE: [Elecraft] Help with K2 Q7 collector resistance test

2005-02-01 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Neal,

Try removing the Control board to see if the resistance moves up
substantially - if it does, look for the problem on the Control Board or its
connectors, oterwise look for the problem on the RF Board.

The best advice I can offer is to look at the schematic and find all the
points marked '12V' and then carefully examine each component (correct
component, good soldering, etc.)that is connected to that 12 volt line -
there are several on the RF Board (and don't overlook the connectors).  On
the control Board, the 12V line connects to U3 pin 2, the 2 voltage
regulators U4 and U5, and to one end of R16 (to feed the AF Amp).

 -Original Message-

 I have been through the archives so I know this has been asked and
 answered a few times but I still am not making much progress on this.

 The problem is that my resistance test for Q7 collecter is not correct.
 With the common probe on ground and the positive probe of my DVM
 measuring resistance, its abt 280 ohms. If I reverse the leads, its
 around 408 ohms. All other measurements seem okay.

 I have the heat sinks unscrewed and point in the air, not touching
 anything. I have remove T4 (as it looked like it could be a source of
 problems) and the measurements are not changing. I have magnifying
 glass inspected things, blown the top and bottom of rf board with
 compressed air, etc with no real movement.

 Prior to the alignment in part two, the resistance reading on the 12v
 line was 788. I did not realize that the polarity of the DVMs could
 change the reading so I have no idea if I had the common probe grounded
 or vice versa. The alignment and test of the part 2 instructions went
 as expected.



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[Elecraft] Sounds Sweet - Alternative

2005-02-01 Thread Tom Mc
I purchased the Sounds Sweet speaker and am quite satisfied with it as the
external speaker for my K2.

  However, shortly after receiving the speaker, the October 2004 issue of
QST came in the mail.  This issue had a cover story  on building your own
high-quality speaker and it looked quite interesting.  It did seem to
require some minimal (?) woodworking skills but all in all it looked pretty
good.  This speaker is more geared to the audio frequencies used by hams,
with a switchover for music, etc.  The Sounds Sweet is really a general
purpose speaker.

Had I not already purchased the  Sounds Sweet speaker, I may have tried the
QST speaker.  I mention this to anyone who may be turned away by the price
tag on the Sounds Sweet.  (It cost me almost $130.00 with s/h and NY State
sales tax).  I didn't price the parts of the QST speaker, but my guess it
would less expensive to build.

It's my understanding that Elecraft was also considering a speaker and had a
few prototypes made up.  It's also my understanding that they have decided
not to go forward with this -- any insights on this from anyone?

Tom, WB2QDG
K2 1103

-Original Message-
From: Phil LaMarche [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 31, 2005 10:02 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Sounds Sweet


Several emails asking where to get the Sounds Sweet speaker...

www.soundssweet.com

Phil

Philip LaMarche
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com
727-944-3226
(800) 395-7795 pin 02
Cell 727-510-5038
FAX- 727-937-8834
N.A.S.F.T # 30210
W9DVM





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